Towing & speedo

I have only towed mine on a trailer, but I do put the windshield down, less chance of a rock chip, less wind resistance, a little more secure when going down the road at 60 or so......

I have herd of driveline disconnects and puting locking hubs on the rear. I tryed to look them up to see how they work? no luck yet! Has anyone removed the rear driveshaft and tryed to move the Willys by putting it in 4 wheel using just the front wheels to move it?? When you remove the shaft, where do you put it and not mess-up, lose the bearings? Will oil run out the rear of the transfer case, do you plug it?

I have asked this question and been tolded at gas stops all different ways I should be towing 4 down, that is why I asked here as all of you have about the same Willys and set-up. I have been reading the form here and have found lots of INFO. I will be replaceing the rear houseing gasket because of leaks, and now see the zerk fittings at the back of the backing plate to grease the wheel bearings (that was good I found the INFO) So towing at 50 to 55 mph for 6 hrs would heat up the rear good and hot?? I will get a spare set of u bolts & nuts and start removing the rear diff.

The locking hub thing on the rear is called a Full floater swap. It can be done on the Dana 41 and Dana 44, I believe Herm the overdrive guy has a kit to do it.
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Mark, I flat towed my M38 from Colorado to Alaska.  I completely removed the rear driveshaft including the universal joints.  I unlocked the front hubs, put the transfer case in N, and put the transmission in N.  I made sure the tires were balanced and the air was the same all around so they would be less likely to wobble.  When I needed to drive it on the trip, I simply locked in the front hubs and put the tranny and transfer in gear.  I kept the windshield down for most of the trip.  But going up the Al-Can highway back then (1979) coated everything with mud.  I wished I would have put up the top to protect the insides.  After several hours with a hose and brush it was clean again.  I put the rear drive shaft back in and it was ready to go.  I towed it between 60 and 65 mph most of the way.  I checked all lube points before and after the trip.  No lingering problems. 

I still flat tow it for short distances, say 100 miles or less.  But now I have trailers I can use for longer trips and higher speeds.  Good luck with your flat towing.  Some of my friends here in CO do it all the time with no problems.  It certainly saves weight on the tow vehicle. 

I don't look good in a Speedo.

Bungee. Leaves a little steering correction, but wont let the wheels get crossed up. Had that happen years ago when turning through an intersection with a dip in the middle.

Ok, since this post has been resurrected, I will fill in some thoughts.  I searched high and low for input when I put my full floater kit in my M38 and couldn't find some answers. 

 

What I did:

·         -Pulled the 10 spline semi float axles out.

·         -Swapped out 10 spline side gears in carrier for 19spline set (included new spider gears and thrust washers).  Carrier removal straightforward – didn’t need to adjust shims or pull pinion gear.

·         -New axles are 19spline on inside and 27spline on outside.

·         -New axle does not have c-clips – it floats freely  

·         -Installed new spindles on the axle tube ends.  

·         -Old zerk grease fitting no longer required.  

·         -New grease seal at end of axle tube keeps rear end fluid away from new hub.

·         -New wheel hub mounts on the spindle.  Bearings and hub similar to front setup.  

·         -New 27 spline  hub locks  mount on end to provide lock/unlock for flat towing.  

What I remember seeing back in the mid 1970's was probably an MB with full floater rear axle with Warn hubs on it. He flat towed from California to Calgary Alberta Canada.  Said it worked real good!  Warn hubs on all four!