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Transfer case rear cap shims
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clayvt View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 Feb. 2017 at 6:23am
I'm rebuilding my transfer case and I am at the point of installing the rear cap and shims. I have the Novak kit and started the pack big (all of them). I didn't have a starting point because there were zero shims in place when I took it apart. Anyways, with all the shims in when I tighten up the cap the shaft binds and there is zero play. I whacked both ends of the shaft with a dead blow to seat the bearings and nada. I do have the gasket in place on the front cap and it is torqued down.

Any suggestions? I can't imagine it would require more shims than what comes in the kit.
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Unkamonkey View Drop Down
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I read your note twice and then walked around my house for a bit to think.
Bearings are not seated correctly or the wrong bearings? I've never had to use that many shims.
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clayvt View Drop Down
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Bearings and cups came in the Novak kit. I'm stumped over this. The only thing I can possibly think is if the front bearing isn't all the way in against the snap ring. It looked as if it was but when I get home I'll stick some feeler gauges in there to see if there might be a gap.
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mbullism View Drop Down
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First thing that jumps out is you had no shims originally... was it freespinning (clunking?) then?

Second thing that comes to mind is speedo gear (backwards?) or that main shaft internal bushing fit or alignment with output shaft.... 

Just brainstorming... seems like if the bearings or races were so drastically different it would be obvious side by side
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The front cap pulls the front bearing cup into the housing. When you pulled the cap tight to seat the bearing cup the very first time on the rebuild, was it with the front gasket in place?

I only ask because when I pulled the bearing cup in the very first time on my rebuild I didn't have the gasket in place, which pulled it too far into the case. When I installed the rear cap I also needed more shims than came in the kit. In frustration I left it and went to bed. I only realised my error after a good nights sleep! To correct, I had to first knock the front bearing cup out of the case a bit, then pull it in the correct amount with the gasket under the cap. This moved the whole assembly forward and only then were there sufficient rear shims in the kit for everything not to bind.

I hope this helps...
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clayvt View Drop Down
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I only put the front cap on once. With the gasket in place.
And now messing around with things I went to slip the brand new rear companion flange yolk on just for grins and it doesn't fit. Grrrr got it from Ron too.

Could there be some sort of interrference with the front output clutch shaft? It's brand new with a new reamed bushing inside the main shaft. Dry fit outside of the case they went together nicely but putting the main shaft in I had to mess around a bit to get it to slip in. I put some assembly lube (not a ton) on the end of the clutch shaft and it spins smoothly on the shaft as it sits with no rear cap.

Edited by clayvt - 15 Feb. 2017 at 12:59pm
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clayvt View Drop Down
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Ok, thoughts on this? I've beeen messaging a guy on YouTube by the name of "metalshaper" who really appears to know what he's talking about. He asked for the shim pack size. All the shims together mic out at .065. These are all the shims I have as there were none in the case when I took it apart.
He thinks .065 is not a lot and I should add a few more. Seeing as the kit from Ron Fitzpatrick comes with about .095 in the kit.
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mbullism View Drop Down
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Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

... Dry fit outside of the case they went together nicely but putting the main shaft in I had to mess around a bit to get it to slip in. I put some assembly lube (not a ton) on the end of the clutch shaft and it spins smoothly on the shaft as it sits with no rear cap.

Kind of what I was asking... mine took some fiddling as well.  I don't see the assembly lube being any issue because there is an oiling hole below the bushing (the bushing is not in a blind hole that would give you hydraulic effects).  Maybe just double check the bushing to make sure you haven't inadvertently pressed it in too deep?
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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The output shaft bearing cup fits properly into the rear cap?  You're test fitting this stuff without gasket cement? 
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Little update,
I just got back from a weekend in GA and waiting for me was a new shim pack from Ron Fitzpatrick. I needed to sleep before work tonight so they had to wait just a bit. I woke up with about 45 min before I had to get ready for work. Cleaned the oil off the new shims and began measuring them. Their site says there are several different sizes of shims in the kit. They all mic'd out to .010. 9 of them. Was really hoping to get some .030's that are supposedly included but no dice. Anyways, I started with adding 3, .030 to my existing pack (about .090 at this point) and bolted it up. Lo and behold it didn't bind up, but had a bunch of end play. Took one shim out and torqued everything down. No binding of the gears and got .060 of end play! I'd say that's pretty spot on!

Thanks for the suggestions everyone in helping me figure this out.
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I am glad you came right in the end. Don't forget to seal each side of each shim before they are finally installed or else they will leak.

I had a brand new shim pack from Walcks that contained insufficient shims to set the bearing pre-load on the steering worm gear. Beats me how anyone can ship an item like a shim pack that doesn't contain enough shims to get the job done properly... Confused
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JeepSaffer View Drop Down
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Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

No binding of the gears and got .060 of end play! I'd say that's pretty spot on!

 

My guide says end play should be 0.004-0.008". Did you make a typo or do you really have 0.060" endplay? 0.060" is way too much!
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clayvt View Drop Down
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Yeah. Forgot some 0's
6 thousands is where I'm at
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