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    Posted: 08 Oct. 2013 at 11:46pm
I have been posting and realized I have not shared anything about my build.

long story short, about 4 or so years ago I had a 1948 willys lefty. it was in very poor condition and despite my love for the non running jeep, I sold it.

a few weeks ago, I found a nice 1947 cj2a and decided its time to start and finnish restoring one of my dream vehicles. 


I have acquired a handful of larger parts,  my favorite being a kaiser supersonic motor :)
original engine needs a gasket refresh and some lifter work. but other then that its a rebuilt motor.

got it back from the sandblaster only to see some more problems that were hidden in grease before.


so, I decided to weld them up and grind them back down.  how critical is this part? I know my grinds wont be 100% flat but respectable I think.


I had some problems with bump stop bolts shearing off, I was able to extract two with the weld a nut fix.

^^^^^^^^Can anyone tell me if that stud looking thing on the lower of the frame is infact a alignment stud or is it a sheared off bolt?^^^^^^^

full frame.

didnt get as far as painting today with those set backs, its sitting in the garage awaiting till thursday when I am off from work.


any tips on spraying POR-15?  
is the degreaser and prep ready necessary now that I sandblasted?





Edited by Speedy - 08 Oct. 2013 at 11:52pm
- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damar2yxr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2013 at 12:25am
YES! That is, in fact, a sheared off bolt. That is for the fender fixation to the frame. Looks like a little heat applied to the area around the bolt and a vice grip pliers will get that off.....Big smile
eat,sleep,jeep

Proud father of a Marine, Army Dentist, Navy Pilot and a Princess. LIFE IS GOOD!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2013 at 1:12am
noooo not good news damar, I have had it with broken off bolts!
still need to drill and tap a few of the bump stops.
who am I kidding, this work is so rewarding :) 

anyone have any details on drilling and tapping? what thread tap do I need. 
I know I can answer my own question tomorrow by using my tpi gage but maybe one of you can beat me to it.

- Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damar2yxr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2013 at 2:06am
Dude. No worries. Vice grips and heat around the circumference of that broken bolt. Get her nice and hot. Don't direct the flame to the bolt itself as you want expansion of the female threads that the bolt broke off inside of. Trust me she'll turn! I have done many of these bolts just that way. Don't try to snap the vice grips down...give it firm controlled hand pressure. "Lefty loosey, righty tighty" go in both directions until it starts to turn.Big smile
Google your drilling and tapping sequence.
Spray the POR 15 without all the other prep since it was sandblasted. Lotsa laquer thinner to clean your gun. Don't let it dry. Wear protection-----mask, goggles, hands. Once that stuff dries it won't be coming off.


Edited by damar2yxr - 09 Oct. 2013 at 4:17pm
eat,sleep,jeep

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2013 at 12:07am
did the weld a nut fix on the ones in question.
still have to drill and tap 3 of them..

sprayed the POR15, wore mask and goggles and gloves and a full coverall.
my eyes feel buggered.

anyhow a step in the right direction.


what to do next? axles maybe! 
- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HillBillE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2013 at 12:43am
Looking good!

Don't worry about the spring hanger, the repair you did should be just fine.

I have fixed worse on some heavily wheeled CJ's, with no problems.
5 Jeeps, 4 HAM radios, and not enough things that go 'BANG!' (no, not hammers!)

N1CJP

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'46 CJ2A #23754

'52 CJ3A #452-GB1-10197
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2013 at 12:55am
good, I was thinking it would be okay originally as the springs dont pivot all that much on the hanger.
happy I dont have to grind the rivits off and replace the hangers :) 

I am contemplating tearing down both axles saturday to get them sandblasted. 
anyone have links to good literature on how to do this? and what should I replace on them.

I am amazed at how easy this is compared to some tractors I have refurbished, I love this Jeep! 
- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote porsskar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2013 at 6:11am
Looks good, and nothing seems wrong with your enthusiasm?
Sten from Finland
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1949 8NAN Ford tractor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2013 at 7:36pm
Looks great.
 
I really like the photo effects in your first set of photos.  Very slick!Clap
 
Tim
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct. 2013 at 5:54pm
thanks :)

guys I would like to start on my axles. 
 can anyone address my questions? 

1. wondering if there is a good manual indicating tools I need? 
2. does napa or similar carry a complete rebuild kit? 
3. do I paint the ball turning surface of the axle housing?
4. if I sandblasted do I keep the axle complete or tear it down first and bring it in component pieces? 
    (or do I just wire wheel)

should I worry about a complete rebuild? or do parts usually last in axles.

edit found this, any others that might be better?



Edited by Speedy - 12 Oct. 2013 at 6:10pm
- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct. 2013 at 6:48pm
I just rebuilt my axles - I suggest that you do everything while you have them off the Jeep and on a stand. I did not sandblast - just cleaned them off with a wire brush and a flap sanding wheel on my angle grinder. I went over them several times with solvent to get as much oil and grime as possible off, then painted them. I also installed a Lock Right locker.

Do the steering knuckles, clean out the diffs and check for water, rust or other obvious problems, and put new bearings, seals, fasteners, etc. in. This is also a good time to rebuild the brakes and check the brake lines, connections, etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct. 2013 at 2:01am
okay so I am tackling it.

prepping for sandblasting I noticed that now both my fronts and rear leaf springs are broke on the main leaf :( does anyone just sell the main leafs so I can rebuild my springs or do I have to look for a new/used set now.


- Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct. 2013 at 12:51am
also, would anyone know if a detroit ez-locker for a d44 fit my cj2a rear end? 
just thought they might cross over.

- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2013 at 4:52pm
would appreciate any information if the Detroit ez-locker for a D44 fits my cj2a stock rear end.

it appears I forgot my own build thread! 
just to keep everything together,


you can find the discussion at

my original t90 that came with my jeep is a rust hunk because of water.
on a shoe string budget as I only hold a part time job.

I found another transmission that jumps out of second, so I tore it down to fix that problem. 
seems more problems arose.  
I hope this wonderful membership can tell me the condition of the parts if they are usable or not. 

if anyone has any good second hand parts that they can help me out with please let me know. 

Main Shaft
splines worn in direction of forward engagement. enough that the transfer case drive gear has forward and reverse slop on the shaft.


transfer case gear, you can see the original edge at the far end of the spline.


gear sliding, first/reverse 
evident tooth wear, with caliper of its wear measurement.
with light pitting on gear face and tooth chips.




Input main shaft
light chipping on chevrons, and pilot clutch bearing face is lightly pitted and slight ridges



second gear
heavier chipping on tooth, some teeth are also chipped.
syncro rings seem to be solid, chevrons intact. 


cluster gear
seems solid, light wear on one part of teeth,  back of cluster face has noticeable ridged that ride on that bronz/brass washer  should this be machined smooth or sanded



- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2014 at 10:47pm
can someone confirm that the ridge I am feeling in the cluster gear set is a problem or not? if I remember a an spacer tube filled the middle so perhaps this is just so the needle bearings stay put?


you can also see it looks like the needle bearings may have heated up causing discoloration on the cluster gear.

- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2014 at 2:01am
I'm no expert. I've only rebuilt one transmission, but I think that ridgei IS a problem. I have two old cluster shafts in the garage that the teeth are too messed up to use. On both of those old shafts, thebore is smooth all the way through.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2014 at 2:22am
ahhh not good news, this trans is going to need everything :(

anyone else want to comment feel free
- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikec4193 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2014 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by Speedy Speedy wrote:

ahhh not good news, this trans is going to need everything :(

anyone else want to comment feel free
Hey speedy...
 
If you wanna really drive it...get the check book ready...gear sets (foreign ones are over $500.00 now....gasket sets not sure...I had to pay another guy another $400.00 to rebuild mine...so I have I bet with a gasket set $1000.00....into mine...these things need really deep pockets to fix right...no such thing as cheap Jeep part....
 
If you just wanna bomb around your yard...leave it as it is...
 
just my smelly old 2 cents...
 
good luck
 
MikeC
I am the squirrel....
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