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46 original "go devil" engine

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mbullism View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov. 2019 at 7:31pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

A couple thoughts if there were still 134L's crated from the factory most likely they would be the last version of the engine used in the DJ-3A's (2 soft plugs on the side of the Block) not ones from earlier years. The 134L was made at least up to 1964. ...

I have one from 1968 (hobart welder) and read in at least one place (though I have no proof) of them being produced until 1970
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Joe DeYoung View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe DeYoung Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov. 2019 at 8:04pm
I thought the L134s were still being produced in a some third world countries into the 70s.
Joe DeYoung
to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife.





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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov. 2019 at 10:09pm
interesting I knew about them being made into 64-65 I did not think of them being made out of the country or past the DJ3A but that's cool to think they were in use so long.
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1948 2A Body Customized
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec. 2019 at 4:47pm
While we are visiting here, i'd like Two of those Sears engine packages !

Surplus Jeep lives today as Surplus City - I think.
The outfit has been located in Oroville, California.

http://www.surplusjeep.com/

http://www.surplusjeep.com/MB-GPW/mb-gpw-group_1_%20engines.htm

http://www.surplusjeep.com/MB-GPW/mb-gpw-group_1_%20engines.htm#Items_Not_Pictured

Below is a webpage of Jeep Links:
http://www.flatfenders.com/jeeplink.htm

Below is their eBay page:
https://www.ebay.com/str/surpluscityjeepparts

   This could be of interest to all:
   I just patronized a new / old machine shop last month to get a GPW engine block cleaned and magna-fluxed, and an F-head engine.
   The machinist 20-years ago worked for Lansing Engines in Redding, California for many years. The Machinist, Ron Rominger, told me he used to build Crate long-block engines in groups of 10 at a time for SURPLUS JEEP (Surplus City) by contract. Lansing engines has been closed for nearly 15 years or better.
But, he said he built well-over 100 L134 engines for Surplus Jeep.

   It was very interesting to listen to him flood my brain with bunches of little nuances of the engines.   Omg, my brain hurt by the time I departed.

    Hope this helps.

    I didn't discuss "Clearances" with him, because in my lifetime of engine building I have learned that Looser is better than Tighter. When I see engines torn down with rod journals that are .010 out of spec and rod bearings worn the same or into the steel backing, and still were running, I just laugh at guys squabbling over .001 or .002 out of what the "book" says.
But, i'd guess that worn rod journal and bearing made one Heck of a Knock !
    hahahah _ _ _ probably my Grandpa.   chuckle

I am Certain there are many L134 engines out there running today which have .020 or More ring-wear in the cylinders, which have had the "ridge" reamed, to remove the pistons for a home-rebuild, and new rings were installed or the old rings re-used to "re-fresh" the old engine.

When I was a kid looking over the machinist's shoulder, he said the "book" is a starting point, and the severity of service may dictate clearances desired.

    Makes me think about Marine engines turning 4500-rpms continuous in a jet boat for 13-miles across the lake. As an example, .002 cold clearance for "piston-to-wall" may not work if using Forged pistons. The pistons grow .003 from cold to operating temps.

Ron Fitzgerald in Central Point, Oregon sells rebuilt long blocks @ $5,000.
   The old guys all know this stuff, but I am sharing this for Young Bucks who haven't spent decades fiddling with 30-or-60 year old engines.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 3:53pm
Yes they are talking about the timing chain.

The engines are pretty much the same engine, but there are some differences.

The cam rotates in opposite direction on a chain drive versus gear drive cam, so the cam shaft is different, and the oil pump drive gear is different.

The engine mounting plate is different.

The lubrication for the timing set is different. On the chain drive engine the crankshaft has an oil passage feeding an oiler for the chain, on the gear drive oil is sprayed through a fitting on the timing cover, the oil passage is missing on a later crankshaft. 

The timing cover on a chain drive engine has a fitting for a spring loaded plunger that rides against the end of the cam, this is missing on the gear drive.

There are probably other minor differences, but these are what came to my mind first.
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