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A little project update on Chug A Lug |
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Mark W. 
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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 Posted: 08 Apr. 2020 at 3:25am |
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HUGE frustration and project slow down. NOT MY FAULT So last week after dealing with weird drug side effects and some other stuff my 79 almost 80 year old mom had a pacemaker installed. SO she is sleeping at my brothers and spending the day with me. She has terrible dry mouth due to the medicine causing her to run her mouth constantly so she drinks water all day long and goes pee every hour hour and a half. SO I have to be in the room cause she has to recline my chair back and doesn't weigh enough to get it up right again. I have been reduced to a nurse. Luckily the work that was supposed to start Monday got Corvided so I have the time off to help her out. But 10-15 min at a time in the shop (luckily its actually part of the house) is about it. Today I finally came up with something I can do in the living room while watching endless British TV shows with her. I am stitching the leather on to my aluminum Steering wheel. I've made and refined the list of stuff to spend the stimulus check on as well as some money I will be getting from a bonus at work and even a share of an Asbestos lawsuit that is finally settling 12 years after Dad passed. I'm starting to go stir crazy. Tomorrow after Doc appointments I will finish up the steering wheel and then I think I'll work on my service manual and some more wiring charts. I can't really start anything that would require paying attention to out in the shop so I been working on one or two wires at a time. Running back in the house to check on her every 5-10 min. Finally the grill is now ready to install with all lights working and all terminal strips in place. I know I sound like a whinny kid but this was quite the curve ball on top of everything else. The wife since she works at a grocery store 3 days a week in a rich part of Portland that the people seam to think they are above social distancing she's a bookkeeper and says trying to count thousands up on thousands of dollars with Latex gloves on is a huge PITA. She's all stressed out that she's going to bring home something to my mom so she is spending her days off hiding upstairs. With as little contact as possible. Its all going nuts OH on the brighter side of things the Local Home town festival car show I wanted to have CHUG done in time for has been postponed  . It was to be first weekend in AUG. No idea now when. So I don't have to hurry whats another year on top of the 10-11 years of work (spread out over the 18 years I have owned it) I have in CHUG already.OK whinny kid rant off. Edited by Mark W. - 08 Apr. 2020 at 3:32am |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 10 Apr. 2020 at 12:08am |
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With only a few min at a time in the shopI have managed to get the rest of the cable control setup that will open and close my Fresh Air Intake. Its a little rougher then I would like but some cycling and a bit of White grease should solve that. Now I need to score some push pull solid wire. I think to find it local I am going to have to look to a lawn mover choke or throttle cable and pull the core out. I already have the outer sheath (black Cycle sheathing) It ended up being super simple once I figured it out. Not sure how tight I can curve the cable but I think it will end up working out ok. It will come off the block make about a 4-5" D curve and pass under the Fresh Air Intake Duct and then pass by the Carb and Air cleaner box on the engine side of the Carb. to then run with the Choke and Warm Air intake control cables into a Grommet in the firewall. Hooking this thing up to the Push Pull control in the Dash is going to be a PITA I fear. Lots of stuff in the way now. I was hoping to be able to open and close the whole of the Duct. But that would have required the control to be outside the Duct and then it got in the way of the Radiator Neck and Cap as well as became rather ungainly. So I loose a little bit of flow its still almost 2.4 times the venturi's in the carb can flow. A little video and a detail photo showing the little Block that holds the end of the push pull cable sheath.  Still working out how to seal the joints between the three sections of the Fresh Air Duct. The wife said she would help me sew up a Pair of Soft Nylon Webbing straps into clams I can wrap around the joints. Lots of time to figure something out after all there's always Duct Tape (comes in nice colors now too!
Edited by Mark W. - 10 Apr. 2020 at 12:18am |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 11 Apr. 2020 at 7:04pm |
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Weather has been really nice so yesterday I got my rock sliders painted. 4 coats of VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint. And this morning as I had some time alone to work. I put them on CHUG. I already had the brackets in place from test fitting them before putting the tub on. WELL DANG turns out on the drivers side the rear of the bar is sticking out 1/8" to far from the side of the tub and the rear of the slider is touching the bottom lip of the Tub. So it needs to drop 1/2" to match my design spec's On the Pass side the front of the slider is about 1/16" high so that will have to do. The rear is about 7/16" high almost touching the bottom of the tub so that will have too be adjusted. The sliders are pieces of 1.5" OD DOM .120 wall tubing that is held out from the Frame on a pair of 1" x 2" tubes that are then held to the frame with a couple of different design brackets (drivers side had stuff like the clutch arm in the way so required its own design compared to the simple pass side. My though is to not mess with them at this time and wait until the Stimulus funds or one of the other sources of funds I typically have about this time of year comes in and I plan to buy the Harbor Freight 20 ton hydraulic press. I can easily rig up a couple of blocks the right height and give the rear support tube a little bend that will solve the problem of being to close to the Tub. The sticking out to far on the Drivers side I will have to slightly elongate the 4) mounting holes to move the Slider a little closer to the side of the tub. I retrospect I would have liked to have had the front edge a little closer to the Joint between the step and the Fender. But its what it is so will have to do. Maybe once the Fender is on the outer edge will hide the mis match. YES I KNOW I AM OCD ish. Photos:   |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Flatfender Ben
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Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Posted: 12 Apr. 2020 at 2:51am |
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The sliders look (slick)
 Can’t wait to see them with the fenders installed. I like the design.
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 12 Apr. 2020 at 5:02am |
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I'm going to figure out a removable step that attaches to the slider to help egress for the wife.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 16 Apr. 2020 at 10:49pm |
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So I tried some wheel stripping today. I owe a big thanks to Chad for his suggestion on the rag with thinner on it for mistakes. Here is one of the two out of three that came out nice  The other one as I was moving it off the card table I did the work on some of the stick on weights came off. SO THAT SUCKS called the guys that balanced them and they will redo it. One of the wheels the stripe is a little raggedy on about 1/3 of the ring. Its not bad so it can be the spare. I can't do the two front wheels right now as they are on CHUG and I need to get the other rear tire on before I can free up my jack. Always something.. I got the Grill wiring harness connected to the main harness. And hooked up my over flow bottle to the Radiator.  And yes I know that Headlight bucket screw is way to long LOL. I'LL GET TO IT LATER! I will also try to figure out a cleaner way to do the terminal block the headlights are connected to. But I was running out of frustration and wanted to get it done. Time for some of these details later. It works for now.  The coiled yellow wire is for future driving lights and if you look close you will see an extra wire coming from my Park/Turn light I swapped them to two element bulbs and then found out the Signal Stat 800 blinks the park lights working off a single element bulb so I left the extra wire there in case something goes bad with the other. All the big black wires are ground wires that will attach to the Master disconnect switch that is mounted in the inner fender between the Grill and the battery. So they are still running loose until I get there. Edited by Mark W. - 16 Apr. 2020 at 10:57pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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timcj2a
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Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801 |
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Posted: 16 Apr. 2020 at 10:57pm |
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The wheel look awesome Mark. Nicely done!
Edited by timcj2a - 16 Apr. 2020 at 10:59pm |
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rocnroll
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Posted: 17 Apr. 2020 at 2:04am |
That looks really good...good contrast. Maybe the raggedy part is the striping wheel not being saturated enough?? Maybe try to roll a short test on paper or such before touching it to the wheel....( just a guess) probably just one of those 'the more you do it' kind of things Looks like a factory stripe to me.  |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 18 Apr. 2020 at 2:04am |
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On the last wheel I did I had the wife help and I took a 6-7" long piece of 3" wide masking tape and made a tab on the end (folded it over so easy to grab) and I started the pen on it then as soon as I was off it the wife pulled the tape off and I kept going. And you hit it on the head its obviously a practice makes acceptable thing. I have two more to do and will just regulate the worst to the spare. Since I am going to be running a Full Moon Cover painted with CHUG A LUG across the top and the little Whiskey Jug and Bubbles from Dads Hood art in the middle and then SILVERTON, ORE across the bottom the Pin stripe won't be seen on the spare. My grand Daughter is getting into painting and drawing and is getting quite good so I think I am either going to paint the Moon cover the same color as CHUG or sand it out to a nice 800 grit satin it out haven't decided yet. Then after drawing out the letters and art work I'll have her paint it with One Spot paint. Once that's done I'll put 3-4 coats of clear over it to protect it. She's excited about the idea of having her work on Grandpas Jeep. Oh roc you should see how it works with the Orange piping on the seats and the detail on the heater face plate. I can't wait to see what it all looks like together with the Wimbledon White (slightly Cream) Hard top.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 25 Apr. 2020 at 5:34pm |
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Well a whole week and very little to show off. I have started back too work and BANG a 50 hour 5 day week right off the get go. So progress will once again slow to a trickle. Here is how my Headlight Junction Box thingy ended up looking when I rebuilt it cause the first version just wasn't up to snuff.   I used flat pieces of Brass to connect a couple of the connections to allow the unit to work as a 90° junction. The photo is a little deceptive there is much more space between contacts then it looks like.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 26 Apr. 2020 at 3:50pm |
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SO I currently have the following electrical circuits working Headlights both dim and bright Dimmer switch working Fog lights (need to hook up indicator) Driving lights (no driving lights hooked up yet but the circuit is in place and working) Brake lights (also run to trailer plug) Tail lights (also run to trailer plug) Clearance lights (also run to trailer plug) Park lights Grill lights Dash lights Under Dash lights Fuel Pump Heater Fan On Board Air Electric Fan (now I just need a fan!) MSD-6A and Electronic Ignition Tach drive RPM switch (this controls a shift light over rev light) Fuel Gauge Volt gauge Oil Pressure safety switch Brake light switches (I have a mechanical on the pedal arm and a hydraulic on the Line locks) Wiper/washer (connected and working just need to plug the harness into the Wiper motor) Backup lights both manual and tranny switches working (also run to trailer plug) Cigg lighter/Map light Radio circuit (a separate shielded power source for my Stereo and Comm radios and device chargers) Still working on a Relay to control this. Trailer Power run to Plug 50amp service (still need to finish Battery end when I get the battery) Still to come: Line locks (just need to hook up switch) Rear Locker switches (big PITA with an arming switch on the dash and the activation switch on the shifter) Dome lights (will have to wait for the hard top) I still have the indicator lights to get hooked up Trailer Brakes (wire run to plug waiting to have a trailer brake controller to hook up to) All Primary wires still need to be connected to the Battery and the Master Disconnect Switch. I have maybe one or two heavy ground wires to connect as well. Not to important as I am not using any sheet metal as a conductor. Everything has its own ground lead. Make for a lot of wire but much better circuit. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 27 Apr. 2020 at 10:50pm |
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SO Pumped after what seams like months working on the electrical system in my build All I have left to do is hook up 6 indicator lights and When I buy my Battery finish off the Battery end of my cables. And best of all I have Park and Tail and Clearance lights on at both steps on the headlight switch. And when I turn on my blinkers the single element bulbs in the front Blink on both headlight settings (as well as the rears. While the clearance lights stay on) If I turn off the lights and turn on the 4 ways Park Tail and Clearance lights all flash. I really like this Signal Stat 800 switch. Even the little Bulb on the end of the lever lights up. Though it does not flash which is fine I have indicators on the Gauge cluster on the Steering column. Line locks, OBA, Rear Locker switch and circuit, both backup light switches, under dash lights, a pair of Green lights in the grill, Fog lights, Heater Fan, All work I have to get the Windshield stuff assembled to know the Wiper switch works and then I have to get my electric engine fan installed to test the multifunction switch I made to control that tested. And the electric Fuel pump safety switch and anti theft switches work as does the pump. I should get my test lamp out and check the Trailer plug connections. BUT I BET THEY WORK TOOO. This little Jeep has a LOT of electrical in it and to make it even more fun I ran dedicated ground wires for everything but the Engine Block its the only thing in the jeep that serves as a conductor.. I ain't going to have no Ground problems. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 03 May 2020 at 2:44pm |
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Well here we are a week later and I am right back where I left off last weekend. Except I have completely changed the terminal block set up I was using to connect the wires coming from the turn Signal Switch and Gauge Cluster on the steering column to a Pair of 12 pin Molex connectors. The terminal block setup was just to big to try to wedge above the steering column due to the backside of the fuse panel being right in the way. This will be so much easier to disconnect and is much cleaner looking then the other way. I do this a lot it seams I come up with a good idea on the fly then once its done I figure out a much better idea. And have to change a bunch of stuff. PITA. Here is a messy photo of how the wiring for the column looks.  |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 7:02pm |
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Column in place. Double checked all electrical connections all switches (that can be checked) And everything is working as it should. I can't get the little green light on the end of the turn signal lever to light up. But thats cool as I have the indicators in the Column Gauge cluster. I need to gathers up a few loose wires under the dash to keep them out of the way of my big feet. But its pretty much done once I tighten the set screws around the Floor to Column Flange to lock the Column in place. I have a PITA repair to do somehow one of the 10-32 screws that tighten the clamp that holds the Gauge cluster in place stripped out. SO not sure how I will fix that as it will need to be done in place. I have a slightly longer screw in it right now which is barely working. I might have to drill that one out and insert a steel tube nut I make.  And from the drivers seat  Visibility of all gauges is pretty good and I have enough room for my Defroster Duct. The 15" wheel clears my ample belly and fat legs with a comfortable amount of clearance. I'm really happy with the way the Steering wheel came out after removing the PCV coating and the finger bumps and replacing with the Leather. Its SUPER tight. Ignition Switch and Starter button are a little cramped against the Defroster Duct coming up behind the column but not to bad. I had to replace the Braided Hose I had going to the Vacuum gauge as the one I had bought turned out to be WAY to long (that was a $40 mistake) The Turn signal switch is non cancelling but neither are the signal switches on the Dump trucks I drive 10-12 hours a day 3/4 of the year so this will seam as natural as the one in my Dakota does to me. The wife should she do any driving will have some trouble but as much as she mentions when I leave a turn signal on I am sure she will self correct LOL. I would like to get the Switch Knobs engraved pretty soon but that will require a trip to Portland during business hours and this time of year a day off is pretty much unheard of. So that little bit of cool might ending up waiting until November and winter lay off. I have a certain shop picked out to do it. They engrave a lot of Firearm receivers that are made at home and require serial numbers and Identifiers. Their work is outstanding. Edited by Mark W. - 09 May 2020 at 7:13pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Flatfender Ben
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Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Posted: 10 May 2020 at 4:40am |
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Awesome!!
 That steering wheel looks great and super comfortable.
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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IRQVET
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Joined: 03 Sep. 2019 Location: Tallahassee, FL Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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Posted: 10 May 2020 at 5:09am |
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One more pull switch, and you'll unlock an achievement medal, lol.
All kiding aside, your attention to detail is awesome.
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Dean
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran 49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924 67 CJ5 (Sold) |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 10 May 2020 at 6:29am |
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I have 9 push pull switches 2 rotary switches and 5 Push Pull cable controls ALL with the same Knob. its the closest I could find to a Stock CJ-2A Head light switch knob. I also have two Armored Toggle switches and 2 hidden toggle switches (for anti theft functions) One of the Switches is a two position switch that I made a fixture so it operates backwards ON ON OFF to control my electric fan. The windshield wiper switch is a rotary with Intermittent low and high settings but if you push it it will (when I figure out a reservoir) operate the washer function. But you never know I could always put another push pull in the console.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 17 May 2020 at 11:02pm |
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So this last week I have been mostly off due to rain (hard to overlay a road when its so went the tack won't stick! Anyway I been working on a couple of projects the most important is the wifes crafts room. I have about a weekend of work left to do on it then she will most likely come up with something else to slow me down. The other which has been more fun is my Console for CHUG where my radios and some other fun stuff will be located away from prying eyes when parked. I was seriously thinking about adding a 40 watt Midland GMRS radio to the mix but in the end as I am not likely to be communing with other modern Jeep guys I can't justify the thing. I have a Cobra 29 WXNWST CB and will be setting it up to get the most out of it. And then a Little Pioneer Digital Stereo receiver (no CD drive) this has Blue tooth so it will do for the phone as well as the books I like to listen to when I drive. For emergency comm's I am going a very different route then the often suggested ham radio. Cause they are just to complicated for the wife to use. I am instead going to be dragging around a Garmin inReach digital Satellite device that will allow me to text for help from almost anywhere in the world and it even has the ability to plot my travels, check in with family automatically and such. In any case I have been mounting the radios in the console and while the CB is a Nightwatch version of the Cobra 29 the lighted dial has crapped out (extremely common with these and to expensive to fix now that the radio is no longer being made) SO I wanted a small light to light up the radio section of the console. but not shine up into my eyes. And then it hit me those silly lighted license plate bolts are exactly what I want. Small simple the light shines out the side of the thing and if its to bright I can just slip a layer of tinted Mylar (something I have a bunch of from other projects) around it and adjust the LED's output. I have a tiny lighted rocker switch I bought when I was trying to decide how to put a anti theft switch in my electric fuel pump circuit. I'll get another one and I'm going to put a pair of amber lights (like my clearance lights) in the back of the Console to light up the rear floor. In the console I have chargers for USB and a pair of 12V outlets. I'm also going to store a Lithium jump start battery and its accessories in the console. Its made from 1/8" aluminum with .065 wall 3/4 and 1" angle at each corner with so far about 400 frecking pop rivets. I think I could use it as an emergency Jack stand its so strong LOL. I have gotten everything for the CB antenna save the actual antenna. I found a super HD Mount and QD as well as a HD spring. I'm going with a Firestik 3/4 wave 7' fiberglass antenna and their Coax Looking forward to getting it all tuned up. I have a pair of Realistic Optimus 7 min box speakers that will handle the Stereo. YES I KNOW THIS ISN'T GETTING ME ANY CLOSER TO STARTING THE ENGINE. But I like doing this stuff. Photos this coming weekend when I have more of the Console done. Trying to decide if I want to go back to the guy who did my seats for the cushion on the console. I'd like to match the Orange pipping and Naugahyde. This week is going to be fun I have many packages of parts coming. But its also going to be a killer week at work. SO not much shop time.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W. wrote: