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Building a Universal Modified

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bkwudz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkwudz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 June 2019 at 3:04pm
I like the grill idea,  nice work
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 June 2019 at 1:31am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

I’m try to keep the weight down.


Do you mean down low, as in center of gravity or down as in total weight?
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 June 2019 at 2:04am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

I’m try to keep the weight down.


Do you mean down low, as in center of gravity or down as in total weight?
yes
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 June 2019 at 2:23am
Oh.  Okay.  Smile 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 June 2019 at 10:18pm
I forgot to mention that I also installed an old style dimmer switch to control my front elocker:



Since the switch is rated at 20 amps, I eliminated the relay. Now I can turn my front locker on and off without having to reach up under the dash. Works really well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 12:23am
So what dims the lights ? 🙀

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 2:30am
I have my brights/dims wired into the pull switch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 3:39am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

I have my brights/dims wired into the pull switch.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 11:42am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

I forgot to mention that I also installed an old style dimmer switch to control my front elocker:

Since the switch is rated at 20 amps, I eliminated the relay. Now I can turn my front locker on and off without having to reach up under the dash. Works really well.

Do you have any kind of indicator light?     You might be able to remember when on/off,   but sometimes I forget whether I have it turned on,  and have to look at switch to tell.   (otherwise reminded by the hard steering wheel when making the next turn)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 11:57am
Yes, I put an indicator light on the opposite poles of the switch so the only negative to that (which doesn’t bother me) is that the light is on when the locker is off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 3:02pm
Cool idea on the locker switch. 

Any thoughts on tucking the belly more? The crossmember looks like it is getting hammered.
42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 4:05pm
Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

Cool idea on the locker switch. 

Any thoughts on tucking the belly more? The crossmember looks like it is getting hammered.


I may be able to shave the corner off some but the actual cross member is no lower than my trans and tcase bottom. As you can see in the pic, my engine and trans tilt upward in the back for even more clearance. The throttle body barely clears the hood.

Even though the crossmember has some bruises, I haven't been in a situation where it hung me up. I have been hung up on the front perches of my rear springs. I think I might go 2" shorter on the rear springs. Since the springs are offset, I would have the 2" removed only from the front side.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 7:03pm
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:



I may be able to shave the corner off some but the actual cross member is no lower than my trans and tcase bottom. As you can see in the pic, my engine and trans tilt upward in the back for even more clearance. The throttle body barely clears the hood.

Even though the crossmember has some bruises, I haven't been in a situation where it hung me up. I have been hung up on the front perches of my rear springs. I think I might go 2" shorter on the rear springs. Since the springs are offset, I would have the 2" removed only from the front side.

What about frenching the rear spring hangers into the frame and adding a little spring arch? I know that is on my list for the next one, even with my stock length rear springs the hanger is what catches.


42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 8:27pm
If I french them don’t I loose some stuff because the springs will hit the frame?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2019 at 9:05pm
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

If I french them don’t I loose some stuff because the springs will hit the frame?


Right now at "full stuff" are your springs basically flat or do they still have a bit of an arch?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wheelie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2019 at 3:52am
I've been thinking about fronting the springs into a chassis for a while now. Then they could kind of slide over obstacles maybe. I don't think fully fronting them in would be the way to go, without some major frame mods to address what Jeff says, the springs hitting the frame. But I think they could be mounted up into a pocket in the frame, a distance equal to maybe 1/2 or 3/4 of the height of the spring hanger. 

That is what I was going to start with on both the front and rear springs. Not sure how it would work with Jpets longer springs. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2019 at 5:33am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

If I french them don’t I loose some stuff because the springs will hit the frame?


It would just depend on where the hanger ends up being in relation to the kick in the frame. I think there would be a way to make it work with stock rear length springs. It also doesn't have to be frenched completely into the frame to make a big difference.

The spring could also be moved outboard and up on the frame. Or inboard. Lots of ways to try new things.

I think the best possible situation would be to have the belly completely flat to the frame and smooth. Use something slippery like UHMWPE over some aluminum. Some 100XT steel would be nice too. I have had pretty good luck with my 6061-T6 plate on the Lexus so far. Then smooth out the transition to the rear springs with some kind of frenched hanger. Then make sure to get the rear driveline up out of the way. So many details that would be really hard to pull off in a flatty. Life is full of challenges.

42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 July 2019 at 5:56pm
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

I should probably bring this thread up to speed. More changes over the past months. First, the seats:



I wanted bomber seats but I also wanted something that had a vintage feel so I went with this design. The harness is 5 point. Originally, it was completely modular where you did not need to use the shoulder straps but I found this to be a pain so I sewed the shoulder straps to the lap belts. In the next picture, you can see both seats with the alterations. Taller seat backs and both seats are raised and lean back farther. Now I have more leg room and a lot more comfort without cutting out the wheel wells.



.... at first it was hard to get used to being held back in the seat with the harness but now I am used to it and I feel more comfortable being strapped in on and off road.

..... more ....


I dig the seats. Is there anything you would do different on a new set?

What did you use for padding?

My suspension seats are about done now after 7-8 years. The covers are just about gone. I'd like to do something with a shorter ( front to back ) bottom for more foot room. It would be nice to be able to make the back of the seat as thin as practical to be able to tuck it close to the front of the wheel tub. Kane's modded aluminum seats have SOOO much more cabin room vs my suspension seats. I'd like to find a happy medium.


42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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