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carb base gasket

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smfulle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: carb base gasket
    Posted: 21 May 2012 at 9:42pm
I bought this carb kit from Walcks for my old WO carb.

It comes with a basic carb base gasket, NOT one of the kind with the metal V bracket in the middle. Should I care? What does that V bracket do for me?

Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brandon219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2012 at 12:46am
it helps atomize the mixture of gasoline and air...... i dont know if it is a necessity. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brandon219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2012 at 12:50am
with mine i need to have the thick base gasket with my carter. if i were to use the type you have. Once you put the carb on the studs you would run out of threads on the studs, because w/o the thick gasket the carb. would sit too low,, thats why you need the thick gasket with the carter, at least to my knowledge. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2012 at 2:19am
It's also to reduce the heat transfer to the carb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brandon219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2012 at 3:25am
oh really i didnt know that
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepRoger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2012 at 5:31pm
The angle of the fins on the baffle helps to create a swirl affect which further atomizes the fuel-air mixture, especially for fuel coming from the advance pump (which does not not atomize well since it does not go through the center orifice of the venturi). It really doesn't serve to reduce heat to the carburetor since: 1) the air flowing into the carburetor cools the carburetor, 2) gasoline being atomized in the venturi provides a cooling affect, 3) fuel/air mixture flowing out of the carburetor cools the baffle. ..R
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 2:45am
Actually it does reduce the heat transfer to the carb whether you want to believe it or not. It's not the heat while the engine is running that is an issue, it's the heat transferred after the engine is shut down that will cause the gas in the carb to boil over into the engine.

Edited by Carlsjeep - 23 May 2012 at 3:13am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepRoger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 2:54pm
Carl, I don't mean to be argumentative and I don't want to take everyone down a rat hole on this, but I do think it is important that we share correct information on our valuable site. If I follow your logic, you're suggesting that the intake manifold baffle acts like a heat sink, drawing off heat from the carb once the engine shuts down. But if it's a heat sink, it should wick off heat to a cold environment, not to the inside of a hot intake manifold that sits right on top of an attached exhaust manifold. Or, are you suggesting that somehow the baffle magically gets cold, or cools off faster than its surround so that it can cool the carb? If so, can you explain how the baffle - a 3-square-inch piece of .050" steel - is going to have a cooling affect on a 14 pound cast iron intake/exhaust manifold, especially when it is inside the manifold? I'm really curious about this. Thanks, Roger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brandon219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 3:48pm
Roger I HAVE to AGREE with you!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clone421 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 4:14pm
I think what Carl meant was that the thick gasket acts as an insulator against the hot intake manifold. Like oven mits against a cookie sheet. Wink

Edited by Clone421 - 23 May 2012 at 4:16pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 4:25pm
Atomization reminds me of the Tornado that they sell at the auto parts store.  I wonder if that would fit in the air intake tube on a cj2a LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkreutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 5:01pm
Originally posted by 67charger 67charger wrote:

Atomization reminds me of the Tornado that they sell at the auto parts store.  I wonder if that would fit in the air intake tube on a cj2a LOL


That would double your horsepower and fuel mileage, according to the ads. Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 5:57pm

Well, if the 60 horsepower rating of the L-head is WITH the thick gasket with baffle, and the "atomization" it creates "doubles" the horsepower available without it, I better get me one. I don't think this jeep will pull some of the hills I plan on taking it up someday on just 30 horsepower. Wink

 
All joking aside, I'm ordering one right now.
 
Thanks for the tips and insights.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 9:46pm
Carl's right, the thick gasket acts as a thermal barrier to help prevent after-boil. Unfortunately ethanol defeats that since it boils easier. Thumbs Down

Something to keep in mind when installing some of these repro base gaskets - the layers are held together with hollow rivets and often those rivets will not compress enough when tightening down the carb and vacuum leaks can occur. There are two fixes; squeeze the rivets in a vice before installing the gasket or, as some have done, drill out the rivets all together and remove them.

Larry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2012 at 1:45am
I don't see how anyone could be so foolish as to think I meant any reference to the metal part that causes turbulence of the air flow to break up the fuel and atomize it. It was or should have been obvious that I was referring to the gasket.

I realize that there are a list of names that are upset with me for a thread a long time back and look for anything to criticize me about. That is their problem, not mine.

The thick gasket can only do so much toward a thermal block to the heat from the manifold. If you use one thin gasket in place of the correct gasket you will have heat transfer problems. As Rocketeer said the ethanol boils easier but without the thick gasket it would be even more of a problem.

This is all the more reason to use a 160-170 deg thermostat and a 7 psi cap. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepRoger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2012 at 5:25am
Carl... This post went awry. It started talking about the diffuser, and if you say "the thick gasket" instead of "it" we all would have been in agreement - which we are. We all got off track - sorry for my part of the confusion. ...R
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote findley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2012 at 7:32am
Can someone post a link to where I can buy the thick gasket with the diffuser.

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe DeYoung Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2012 at 10:38am
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