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D18 transfer case project

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ndnchf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2019 at 11:33am
Originally posted by eestes1 eestes1 wrote:

Steve, do you know O'tooles Law? He said Murphy was an optimist!

Oh Lordy, I'm in trouble now Wink
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2019 at 7:16pm
The double lip seals arrived, so I compared them to the single lips to determine how deep to seat them. The single lips are .500" wide, the double lips are .312" wide. But the actual rubber edge that contacts the yoke are different. I determined that one .0775" thick machine bushing will space the double lip seal about where I want it. 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2019 at 9:19pm
My Rock Auto order came in today. That was my yoke repair sleeves and bearings. I got the front bearing cap assembled - bearing, snap ring, shift rod and fork safety wired, then assembled with the output clutch. Next was assembling the output shaft - gears, bearings, that hidden snap ring and thrust washer. 

Bob has kindly sent me another rear bearing cap, which should arrive tomorrow. It will take a day or so to get it cleaned, prepped and painted. Then the real fun begins; setting the outout shaft endplay with a bunch if shimsSmile

I got the repair sleeves installed on the front yoke and rear companion flange, so those are ready to go.

Time for a cold one....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob3b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan. 2019 at 12:09pm
I did not order a shim kit either, but tore two transfer cases down so I have about 7 shims of various thicknesses on hand. I started my assembly yesterday.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan. 2019 at 12:40pm
After getting my Rock Auto order in yesterday, I made a short video of where I'm at in assembly. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan. 2019 at 7:29pm
The rear bearing cap that Bob sent arrived tonight. I got it cleaned up and it's lounging in the Evaporust bath now. Tomorrow I should be able to paint it.

I got the front bearing cone and front cap installed tonight. Next will be the rear bearing cap after I get it painted. I may not need it, but I ordered a shim pack. Between that and shims from two TCs, I should be able to come up with a happy combination.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2019 at 2:54pm
It seems there is supposed to be a gasket between the emergency brake backing plate and the rear bearing cap.  Part #62 "Gasket, rear output" in the parts diagram here:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transfer-case-parts/dana-18-parts/

But the gasket is not included in the D18 gasket kit.  One vendor I talked to acted surprised when I asked about it, saying he didn't know there was one.  I can't really determine what purpose it serves.  It goes on the rear machined surface of the rear bearing cap.  This is outside and different from the rear seal.  I can't see that it serves any purpose.  I made one from a roll of gasket material, but do I need it?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2019 at 7:16pm
To me it make no difference if the parking drum gasket is installed or not.
It could feasible make it easier to separate those parts at a future date and that's about it.
Putting sealer on the rear bearing cap bolt threads is a good idea....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2019 at 7:59pm
Back in the day the only thing we used was Indian Head shellac. It seals quite well but can glue shims together so that they are almost impossible to get apart. Blue goo is the devils product and they tell you to use around 4X more than you need.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2019 at 8:23am
I'll use the backing plate gasket I made, maybe just put a thin film of grease on it to help prevent the surface of the rear bearing cap from rusting. 

Bob sent me a good rear bearing cap.  I've got it cleaned, de-rusted and painted.  Tonight or tomorrow I'll make a first attempt at shimming it.  I've got two TC's worth of old shims to start with.  I ordered a shim pack, but its not here yet.  I've got spray copper coat for the shims at final assembly. 

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob3b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2019 at 8:32am
My shimming went pretty well. I'm not sure what is "normal" but I have just over .104 of shims in mine. The instructions said to start with .060 and go from there.
I'm at a standstill for the moment as my supplier sent the wrong intermediate shaft by accident, hopefully I'll have the correct one in a couple days.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2019 at 12:35pm
Mine seems to be pretty similar at .097" of shims. Here's a video I made of my progress.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Floater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2019 at 1:14pm
Hi Steve - 

Great job on the videos and documenting your D18 rebuild. I've been doing mine over the past few weeks, and my experience with shimming is about the same as yours - I ended up using 0.090" of shims. The endplay still seems tight to me - I really have to pull on it to deflect my dial gauge, but I'm hoping it'll loosen up a bit. I kept having to "wake up" my main gear shaft with some taps of the dead blow while adjusting endplay. It seems everything I build (like the T-84 I just did) is a bit tight.

I used Perma-tex high tack spray sealer on my shims. When they say high tack they aren't kidding. I'm not using a paper gasket on my rear cap - I have several gasket sets from various sources, and haven't seen a gasket for the end cap in any of them. We'll see if that's good or bad.

Thanks again for doing the videos and write-up. I'll be doing this again on additional D-18s. Good luck with the storm!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2019 at 7:54pm
I went back and checked my end play again. I tapped the shaft with a dead blow, then pulled hard, back and forth a few times. I then had almost .014" endplay. Maybe its all the grease on the bearings. So I pulled it back apart and removed a .003" and .0075" shim. Now I have .004" endplay. I'm pleased with that. I suppose I'll gain a thou or two when I spray the copper sealer on the shims. But I think it will be ok.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Floater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2019 at 8:36am
Originally posted by ndnchf ndnchf wrote:

Maybe its all the grease on the bearings.

I read somewhere NOT to grease the bearings before setting endplay, as that will affect endplay. My main shaft and components are pretty much dry, which may explain some of the tightness I feel. I'd be wondering about how much compression that paper gasket is getting as well, and will it change over time.

Not trying to wreck your Sunday morning, but this is what we novices do, right? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2019 at 8:53am
If I recall cirrectly, Rick Stivers mention grease, but said he didnt think it really mattered. It will squish out when the shaft is pushed back. I'm not worried about. Later today I'll do final assembly of the shims and bearing cap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2019 at 6:14pm
I got the shims coated with copper spray and everything is assembled from the front bearing cap to the emergency brake. I have .0055" endplay on the output shaft. I'm pleased with that.

But then I noticed a problem - the speedometer driven gear was not moving when I rotate the shaft. WTH?  So I removed the driven gear retainer, pull out the driven gear and look inside. Yep, the drive gear is there. I stick my finger inside and I can move the gear back and forth on the output shaft - maybe 1/8"! This is with the output shaft nut tight on the companion flange. What gives?  The gear is supposed to be clamped tight between the end of the companion flange and the shoulder on the shaft by the bearing - right? It almost seems like it needs a spacer. I swapped speedometer gears with Oldtime. I didn't think to measure the length of the old and new drive gears. So what is wrong here that I have such a gap preventing the drive gear from being clamped tight?

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2019 at 6:22pm
I had a similar issue.  I purchased a new gear.  It was wrong.  There are different combinations of speedometer gears.  
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