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Dual Master Cylinder Conversion

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garage gnome View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garage gnome Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2011 at 5:36pm
I have drums all around and it stops excellent without one. I asked the same question over on the ECJ5 board and they said to run it without one and see.
Nate
1953 3A, 1949 3A, 1947 2A, 1918 IHC Titan 10-20, 1905 IHC Famous, other hit n misses
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tfrazer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2012 at 3:58am

So i am looking at putting a duel master in a 46 2a and running 4- 11 inch drums... I have seen alot of diffrent mc's suggested here.. I was planning on buying herms braket and finding a smaller MC.  Since I live along way from a parts store.. pretty much going to have to order everything online   unfortunately.  I saw Ralf had a model number posted for drum/disk... anyone know one for 4 drums?? or with the drum /disk work?

Ted
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2012 at 3:05am
The one I posted will work fine.
1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A
1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor

1941 J-3 Cub
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tfrazer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2012 at 3:48am
thanks a ton!
Ted
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tfrazer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2012 at 12:25am
So I just recived waclks Kit... He says the plunger needs to be modified but he dosent say how
.  It seems like it would fit looking at it.
Ted
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scuba82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar. 2012 at 5:02am
I'm having a little trouble with Herms kit. I've run all new lines, bled them and it doesn't have much pressure and I can not even come close to locking the tires up. I've re-bled and nothing. Does it matter which port (front or rear) on the MC I run to the front or back? I currently have the rear MC port to the rear brakes and the front port to the fronts. My clutch pedal also does't like to release when Im on the brakes hard, its like the shaft is torquing... wondering if any of you all have had similar situations with Herm's kit? Thanks everybody.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garage gnome Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar. 2012 at 12:31pm
The Dual MC should marked which one goes to the front and which one goes to the rear. Did you bench bleed the MC? I bench bled mine and put it in and had brakes immediately 
Nate
1953 3A, 1949 3A, 1947 2A, 1918 IHC Titan 10-20, 1905 IHC Famous, other hit n misses
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keith.Tracy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar. 2012 at 4:25am
the smaller res is for the rear. this would mean you have it backwards

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scuba82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar. 2012 at 5:07am
I did bench bleed prior to installing it into the bracket. I also had to trim the original plunger. Do you think I may have ground too much and the pedal isn't pushing the plunger far enough?I have no leaks and bled the lines thoroughly...It's like a mystery!!! I did just purchase a 82-83 Ford Fairmont M/C that I saw mentioned in this thread...should be coming in the mail this week, I'm going to try that to see if I make some progress!

On Herm's MC, the reservoirs are the same size I noticed. I'll change it back (rear port to rear wheels and front to front) bleed it one more time and test it...if not better, I'll try the Fairmont MC Thanks for the advice guys, keeping my fingers crossed!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mderick25 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2012 at 5:59pm
I had a similar issue when upgrading to a dual res MC.
What I found was that I did have a small air leak in one the lines. It never leaked just never let me bleed it correctly.
I used speed bleeders, and went over all my line connections ensuring that they were totally tight. I also opted for a banjo connection (90 degree) off the MC.
Once I did all this, I was able to get a very hard pedal.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dortoh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr. 2012 at 9:03pm
Gale,
   What is the master cylinder you used off of? It looks like both the front and back chambers are the same size and would work best for those of us using drum brakes?

Thanks Lenard


Edited by dortoh - 08 Apr. 2012 at 9:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ttom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov. 2012 at 12:18pm
I just received the commando MC. What existing brackets did you use?I have a 46 overland cj2a and there is no brkt in sight. The original MC bolts through it to the frame. Did you purchase another brkt?If so where From (pardon my red neck lingo)? Did you purchase  the 90 degree banjo bolts? I appreciate your input. TTom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WRMorrison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2013 at 6:35pm
Old thread, I know, but thanks for the heads-up on where to get the banjo bolts and fittings Ralf.  I just called and got a couple on the way.

For those interested (might turn up in a future search), a '72 Commando master cylinder (with drums on both ends) has both ports threaded 1/2-20.  The part number for 2 banjo bolts, 2 fittings and 4 crush washers that mate to standard 3/16" brake line is PN 3105 at purechoicemotorsports.com.  They're $30 + shipping (and tax, if applicable) for the set:

(It says it's for a Wilwood master cylinder, but the bolts/fittings are the same)

-WRM


Edited by WRMorrison - 09 May 2013 at 6:40pm
If you're a SolidWorks user, here's a link to my publicly available models: My Models (click on "projects")
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daniel_Buck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2013 at 6:58pm
I'm thinking about going with the R&P dual MC, anyone done this?  Apparently it's completely bolt on, no cutting or needing to make brackets.  And has a remote filler for the MC, which would be nice!

http://shop.rp4wd.com/product/willys-jeep-cj-dual-res-master-cylinder-conversion-kit




2a #40500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WRMorrison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2013 at 7:00pm
Very interesting Daniel; never heard of or seen that one...the remote filler would be nice!

-WRM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2013 at 8:50pm
Has anyone used the R&P dual MC kit?  On their website it looks like it would be a complete solution for my '47 with existing 11" drums. The remote reservoir is a very useful idea.

It stopped OK with the stock MC, but might as well upgrade while I have it all in pieces.
'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daniel_Buck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2013 at 10:10pm
Does upgrading the MC actually make the braking any different?  I was under the impression it was more for safety, incase one of the lines blows or leaks, you still have the other 1/2 working? 
2a #40500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2013 at 10:29pm
The piston will be larger. More volume, thus more fluid.

I believe that the wheel cylinders on the 11 X 2" Bendix brakes on my '47 are LARGER diameter than the OE master cylinder... But I have not measured them.
'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear
Lock-Right locker
11" drum brakes
Dual master cylinder
T90C Transmission
16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels
Cooper STT Pro tires
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