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have no spark. completely lost.

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joedavis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 8:47pm
i have a 46 cj2a with the 4-134 in it. coil is new. new wires. new plugs. new points. new cap and rotor. have current at the top of the distributor but nothing going to the plugs or even down the wires for that matter. at this point im am absolutely lost as for where to go to next. i learned to drive on this willys jeep when i was 7 years old. i had my head under a hood ever since but for some reason ive got a got that popped up over the winter on this one. first time ive ever had a problem with it and before i replaced the parts(ignition) they were all original. gotta love the jeep... so what is my next plan of action
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillbilly21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 9:05pm
Starter button,,ignition switch,,condensor , points 
1946 CJ2a POW-MIA
51 M38 ORIGINAL
PRES NCFFC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 9:17pm
And the other thing to keep in mind is that there have been many reports of new ignition parts being faulty out of the box, particularly condensers.
Sam

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1947 CJ2A 122031 ACM 111989

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote warbrds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 10:12pm
I agree, check the new parts, do you have power to the distrbutor?   If you have a Fluke type meter you can check connections, etc.
 
Plug wire good?
 
Back track methodically from where you ended up and you should be able to find the problem, issue
 
Don't just throw parts at it, keep track of what you are doing and checking
Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plowpusher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 11:20pm
start at the beginning 1.  do you have power at the coil + when key is on 2. make sure wire from coil - goes to distributor points. 3.bump engine around until the points are closed. 4. check the secondary coil wire for continuity with an ohm meter (1000 OHMS PER INCH) Install the secondary coil wire  in the coil with  other end about 1/8 inch from a good ground. 5. flick the points open and closed you should have a spark between coil wire and ground. If not check for power at points. if you have power. run a file across the points the spay with carb spray and run a clean business card between the contacts flick them again, still no spark  change out the condenser (Iwould start by using the old one) remember to lube the rubbing block at the distributor cam after spaying the carb spray in the distributor. Doing this will  eliminate any guess work if all this works and still no spark at the plugs it's the rotor cap or plug wires check the wires with an ohm meter inspect the cap and rotor.
when i grow up i wanna be a kid
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeep_cj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 11:32pm
I had a problem like this. I had power all the way to the coil wire, but once I hooked everything up to the distributor, nothing.
Turns out I had a bad ground. One of the little rubber boots that go on the screw that holds in the points and transfers power to the points from the coil was grounding it out to the side of the distributor case.
I got it running again and then the next day it quit. I bought a non-conductive little piece of plastic and put it behind the coil spring (which was grounding out to the side of the distributor case). It needs to have a non-conductive washer on both sides of the bolt on the distributor case wall and then watch out for the points spring touching anything.
Been running good since then!
1947 CJ2A. Rebuilt flathead. Sears hard top. Converted to 12 volt. The rest is completely stock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar. 2011 at 1:37am
Here is something that is not mentioned  Is the battery wire hooked to the positive side of the coil?
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote joedavis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar. 2011 at 12:46pm
i have power all the way to the top of the cap. power to the coil and put all new plugs wires cap and rotor points and condenser on it again. still have nothing. checking the non conductive washers on it today hoping it will solve my problem and let the ghost disapear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar. 2011 at 2:08pm
You have power to the cap..Distributer cap?  If so not the points.  Check that you have the wires ALL the way down in the distributer cap.  Sometimes they go in but do not click all the way down.  Then with one spark plug laying down grounded to the neg. see if you have spark.
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeep_cj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar. 2011 at 4:11pm
Let us know how it goes. For as simple as the electrical systems on these Jeeps are, very little is shielded from grounding out and a lot can go wrong. Also: I hate points. :P
I've really been looking into an EFI module that replaces the points and sits inside your distributor cap, because I hate timing distributors, and I hate when points burn out, and I hate gapping points. h8h8h8.
1947 CJ2A. Rebuilt flathead. Sears hard top. Converted to 12 volt. The rest is completely stock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote joedavis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2011 at 2:37am
im gonna end up replacing the distributor. with the money ive put in to parts to replace this one i could have already bought a new replacement. im upgradind to an electronic ignition and doing away with the points system. it makes more sense and is more dependable along with being just as easy to work on. tahnk you to all that pitched in advice. once i get the stock distributor out im gonna look it over inside and out to find the problem. ill post what i find. thanks again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeep_cj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2011 at 6:08am
No shame in that. If you're going for a full restore, just don't pop the distributor cap off and no one will know the difference.
I'm going to do that...once I fix the last three other things. I always get everything working...then come the improvements.
1947 CJ2A. Rebuilt flathead. Sears hard top. Converted to 12 volt. The rest is completely stock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FlyingAnchor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2011 at 4:12am
Joe,

Ran into the same problem myself with a '47 that I have and use for light farm work. Wanted to know what came about with your solution.

I have no spark (every once in a while a thin orange spark)...good juice to the distributor, both primary and secondary coils check good (replaced the coil anyway) points check good, condenser is new, cap & rotor new, plug wires new, but damn thing won't start.

After some reading I am suspecting it may be grounding out somewhere in the wiring harness before it reaches the coil. I am going to check the primary and secondary coil again for proper spark. But by all accounts it (spark) looks like it leaves the distributor and disappears...only thing I can think of is that the spark I am getting at the coil is not enough and thus the weak and very intermittent spark I get at the plug.

I have a very well versed Jeep mate that assisted me and he is perplexed as well...Dead...
For by wise counsel thou shalt make thy war and in the council of many there is safety. Proverbs 24:6
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plowpusher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2011 at 6:53am
Run a wire from the battery positive post to the coil positive  crank the engine this will eliminate the wiring to the coil from the rest of the jeep.Clean the points with a point file or emery board.
when i grow up i wanna be a kid
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Maahlers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2019 at 1:41am
These old post still saving sanity today. Was having a similar issue. Found that the square nut inside the distributor where the points are connected was grounding itself out against the distributor body. Was driving me crazy for a week! This was an ICW by the way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2019 at 3:34am
What does ICW stand for? Google is of little help with this one.

Some of my guesses: International Collegiate Wrestling? I can't Wait? Insulated Copper Wire? Insane Clock Works? I Can't Work? Intense Clown Workshop?

I sure wish folks would just spell out what they mean, especially with these odd ones. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2019 at 3:48pm
ICW IAT IAD are all Autolite distributor number prefixes
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1948 2A Body Customized
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 2:27am
Thanks Mark. I learned something new today.
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