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Delmo View Drop Down
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Joined: 29 Apr. 2019
Location: Holt, MO
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Points: 47 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Delmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2020 at 7:17pm
 A couple of weekends ago we picked up a front axle for Elmo. It is a wide track Dana 44 out of a Cherokee Chief. Once we got it out of a very muddy junk yard, we brought it home and disassembled it. We got it cleaned up and cut the drivers side knuckle off with a cut off wheel. By the time it was ready to have the knuckle welded back on, we had cut 3 1/2” of tube off. This will make have 28” springs perch centers and be about 57” wide to match the back. Once the knuckle was welded back on, we welded a new drivers side spring perch on. We also drilled a new hole 1” farther back on the passengers side one to have the axle offset on the spring. During this time we also finished the pedal assembly. This included putting a return spring, bump stop, and brake light switch on it. We also put some springs on the steering column that will hold our bearings in place. More updates to come soon. -Dylan
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Points: 13584 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2020 at 9:59pm
Originally posted by Delmo Delmo wrote:

. Once the knuckle was welded back on, we welded a new drivers side spring perch on. We also drilled a new hole 1” farther back on the passengers side one to have the axle offset on the spring.


I understand the offset ( moves the axle forward) but why just the passenger side?

Educate me please.

'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"
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Fltfndr View Drop Down
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Points: 796 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fltfndr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2020 at 10:05pm
Me too, why just the passenger side. Would it not also change caster?  A one inch chance in wheelbase?
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Fltfndr
1948 CJ2A Restomod "Six Pac"
The object of war is not to die for your country, but make the other bastard die for his. George S. Patton
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Joined: 29 Apr. 2019
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Points: 47 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Delmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2020 at 1:07am
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:



I understand the offset ( moves the axle forward) but why just the passenger side?

Educate me please.


   Sorry I wasn’t very clear. We also drilled an extra hole on the drivers side perch before we welded it on the axle. In addition to a longer wheelbase, the reason we did that was to get a better approach angle with the longer YJ springs. The caster with the way we currently have it is about 3 degrees.



Edited by Delmo - 05 June 2020 at 3:32pm
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Points: 13584 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2020 at 2:03am
Ok good .....I had done that years ago on mine but had never heard of doing just one side....ya got me there for a few.

Great progress and very clean fab work...carry on. Good job!

'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

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Fltfndr View Drop Down
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Points: 796 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fltfndr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2020 at 4:04pm
Just so you are aware, I am running Holbrook Longleafs  When I installed them, My shackles had a negative angle so I moved the rear spring perch forward about an inch, essentially moving the front axle forward an inch as your additional hole will do.  My problem arose when I tried to do a tie rod flip. My drag link hit the tie rod, even with a shorter pitman arm. Solution was to move spring perch back to its original location as instructed by Holbrook.  Just FYI
 
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1948 CJ2A Restomod "Six Pac"
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Points: 47 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Delmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2020 at 3:22pm
Originally posted by Fltfndr Fltfndr wrote:

Just so you are aware, I am running Holbrook Longleafs  When I installed them, My shackles had a negative angle so I moved the rear spring perch forward about an inch, essentially moving the front axle forward an inch as your additional hole will do.  My problem arose when I tried to do a tie rod flip. My drag link hit the tie rod, even with a shorter pitman arm. Solution was to move spring perch back to its original location as instructed by Holbrook.  Just FYI
 
Fltfndr

Thanks for the heads up. When we designed the steering box mounts, we drew it all out on a piece of poster board with the frame, axle, spring, and steering box. With the picture, we figured out where to place it at where everything should clear when the suspension is fully drooped or compressed. I guess we will see when it is all done. We still have the old holes in the spring perches if we need to move the axle back, but we would definitely prefer not to.
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Points: 47 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Delmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2020 at 3:30pm
 The next thing we made on Elmo was the front shock mounts. To start off, we made two hoops out of 1 1/2”x .120” wall D.O.M. tubing. Once those were done we made two 3/16” plates for each side. They slide over the tube and have three holes each: one for the shocks, one for a crossover bar that will go between them, and one for a mount that we will have to the fender. After those were tacked on the frame, we made some for the axle side. These are also 3/16” plates. We got them where we wanted and tacked them on. We will put an update on the inner fenderwells soon, as they are our next project. -Dylan
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Points: 796 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fltfndr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2020 at 5:17pm
Did you lengthen the frame in the front?  If you did and then mounted the steering box further forward, forget anything I said.   You are way ahead of me design wise.   Just the ramblings of an old man. (older than Snave)
 
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1948 CJ2A Restomod "Six Pac"
The object of war is not to die for your country, but make the other bastard die for his. George S. Patton
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Points: 157 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2020 at 2:58am
Wow gotta go plum to IA to find out someone older than me!
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Points: 796 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fltfndr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2020 at 3:23am
Ha!  Probably to find someone who still wheels a flattie.
 
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1948 CJ2A Restomod "Six Pac"
The object of war is not to die for your country, but make the other bastard die for his. George S. Patton
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Points: 47 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Delmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2020 at 4:38pm
 We’ve had enough time the past couple weeks to make Elmo’s inner fenderwells. They are each made out of 2 pieces of 18 ga. The first piece we bent where the bend in the grill is. Then we made a trapezoid piece to fit in the rear corner. Both of these pieces also have a lip bent on them where they meet the 1/8” fender. Once the fenders were tacked together, we welded them up and polished them. Next, we marked and cut the bottom of the fenderwells to give us 1/4” of clearance between them and the frame. Finally, we cut a holes in them for the shocks to go through. We will have more to update on soon. -Dylan
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Points: 2384 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2020 at 4:50pm
WOW - Those fenders are tremendous!  I bet you could sell them here.

Awesome work.
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Points: 843 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2020 at 5:52pm
Very cool!

(I always get excited when I see there's an update on Elmo!)
Bob

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'71 Ford Bronco
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Points: 47 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Delmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2020 at 4:07pm
We’ve been fabricating on Elmo the past couple weeks. The first thing we did was make some roll cage mounts at the firewall. We made some 4” square plates out of 1/4” plate and bolted them on the firewall. We wanted to make these mounts removable to make it easier to get the tub on and off. To do this we took a piece of 1 3/4” tube and cut it in half. Then we drilled two 3/8” holes through them and the shock hoops. After these were done we made cut and bent some 1 1/2”x.120” wall D.O.M. tubing to go from the firewall to the shock hoops. Once we got the roll cage mounts welded up, we made some mounts to bolt the fenders to the shock mounts. These are made out of 1/8” plate. We also made some sleeves that slide in between the 2 plates so we can use one 1/2” bolt on each side. We are starting to design the roll cage, which will be our next project. -Dylan 
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Points: 203 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73 cj5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2020 at 4:44pm
Nice work Thumbs Up I've been watching this while I work on my 3b. I like your ingenuity. 

I did my shock mounts and cage just a little different. 
CJ3B
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Points: 1132 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nick_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2020 at 6:01pm
Absolutely stunning! The engine bay and fender tubing is wicked.
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Points: 47 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Delmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug. 2020 at 3:41am

   We got a chance to start on Elmo’s roll cage a couple weeks ago. The first thing we did was modify our roll cage pads to fit around the ribs on the rear fenderwells. To do this we cut strips of 3/16” plate and welded them to the bottom of the pads, then we ground them to where they fit nicely around the ribs. Then we started on the actual roll cage, which is made out of 1 3/4”x.120” wall D.O.M. tubing. The first tube we bent was the B-hoop. After that, we bent the A-pillar bars. We notched them and tacked them in place along with the B-hoop. Next, we bent and tacked in a bar that runs across the top of the windshield. Our next step is to make some bars that will go from the outside corners of the B-hoop to the A-pillar bars. Last weekend we also went over to J.W. Heater’s and got to see Roxanne. There we picked up an extra hood and grill. We will have more progress to come soon. -Dylan
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