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Original vs Omix-ADA radiator

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Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2020 at 4:55am
It can cause the condensation in the motor to mix with the oil and form sludge. My dad destroyed an engine this way.
 
Also, the system needs the water to flow at a specific rate to allow heat transfer from the cylinders as well as out the radiator.
 
Not running one is failing to address the issue which is causing the overheating.
 
I just spent the last five hours flushing out my block. I have done this for more times than I can remember in the last two years. I had the original radiator gone through but it is the mountain of rust in the block that keeps coming out. I started with something that would continuously overheat caused by sitting unused for 20 years. Through multiple flushes and even pulling the freeze plugs, she now runs at 160. Hopefully, I got all the rust out but I have said that before. Never once did I consider not running a thermostat.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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VermontOverland View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VermontOverland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2020 at 12:28am
Thx all.  Ordered a new t stat and working on taking care of some engine tuning issues.  My rad does not have a fan shroud which could be the culprit right there.  I'm not seeing readily available screw holes in the side of my orig rad.  What's the best way to attach the shroud to the rad?  Must need very shall screws so as not to penetrate too far into the rad.  Thx.  
Peter Vollers
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Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2020 at 12:44am
Peter,
Sounds like you are on track.
 
The main shroud is soldered to the radiator. The extended shroud bolts to the shroud.
 
The top section of mine was missing. I had to make one. The shop didn't quite get it at the right arc on the first try.
 
Micah
 
 
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Rick G View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2020 at 7:19am
Originally posted by Anvil Anvil wrote:

Originally posted by Rick G Rick G wrote:

Micah,
Why should you NEVER run an engine without a thermostat?
I wouldn't say never, but generally, it's twofold: if you don't let the engine get hot enough, besides not running optimally, you can collect condensation in the engine that won't steam off.  In colder climes it's a big deal and you'll often see that chocolate milk look on your oil filler cap.  

Secondly, the coolant system is designed for a restriction to slow the flow of coolant down so that there is some latency and the coolant has time to absorb the heat from the engine and subsequently lose the heat passing through the radiator.  Without that restriction the flow of coolant can be too fast to do either.  The old trick was to drill a hole through the outer rim of the thermostat if you needed more flow.

All that said, if you're overheating, it is almost always something other than your thermostat.  You can tell if your thermostat is working once the engine reaches temperature if you have water flowing through your radiator.  You can check it on the stove by immersing it hot water and checking with a thermometer.  Thermostats are cheap and easy to replace so they usually get the blame, but IME, they're rarely the root cause of overheating.

I’m always curious about people’s understanding of the thermostat and the cooling system in general.  I grew up in the radiator business.  Between my grandfather and dad, we had 5 radiator shops in Texas and New Mexico.  I have worked on thousands of radiators from the smallest heater cores to giant oil refinery heat exchangers, so the cooling system is near and dear to me.

Ya’ll are correct about the need for a thermostat, however, the temperature function of a thermostat in and of itself is generally not necessary (cold climates being an exception) for normal driving conditions.  The main need for the thermostat is to restrict flow for the coolant, as you mentioned.  The coolant must have enough residency time to pick up heat from the block/head and then it must have enough residency time in the radiator to transfer that heat to atmosphere.  The inherent restrictive nature of the thermostat provides for this.  The temperature rating of the thermostat is more of a specific circumstance selection based upon several variables; climate, condition of the radiator, engine modifications, etc.  I certainly would never recommend running without a thermostat, especially in cold climates, but I’ve seen it work just fine in certain situations also.

Condensation in an engine is definitely a killer long term, but I suspect that its accumulation in the lower end is more a function of how that engine is operated and the climate in which it’s operated.  If you never allow you engine to get up to “operating temp” with or without a thermostat, especially in cold humid climates, then that accumulation of moisture is going to get you eventually.  A 195 degree thermostat is recommended in that situation, but even with it, you aren’t helping matters if you don’t run the engine long enough to heat up.   This situation isn’t really an issue in hot, dry climates.  

In normal driving conditions, a gutted thermostat will work just fine.  You merely need the flow restriction as mentioned previously.  If you have a marginal radiator (i.e. undersized, clogged, etc.), then a lower temperature rating on the thermostat might help, but probably not.   For hotter climates and small radiators, I always recommend a 160 degree thermostat, but that’s not really going to keep your vehicle running any cooler.  I’m having cooling issues on Gus and have put a 160 degree thermostat in and even drilled holes in it as you have suggested (see page 1 of this thread).  Thermostats typically don’t have anything to do with your vehicle running hot, unless they fail closed.  The caveat is, if you have gotten your engine too hot, you may have damaged your thermostat and it may be operating erratically.  There are tell-tale signs of these conditions, however.

Since I’ve been out of the radiator business for quite a while, I’m like everyone else, having to order a radiator off the shelf.  The one I bought for Gus several years ago fit just fine, but it is undersized due to the low fin count.  It has one more row of tubes than the original, but much less fins per inch.  The radiators that we have now (modern vehicles and Willys replacements) are “v” fin design versus the “flat” fin design of our original CJ2a’s. The original Willys radiators (up to the CJ3a’s) are a staggered 2 row/flat fin design and they worked very well because they had about 12 fins/inch.  My replacement radiator has about 7 fins per inch, and this is the main reason that Gus runs hotter than I’d like.  Being bored .060” over doesn’t help either, but the subpar radiator is the main culprit.

I still have the original radiator and a few radiator tools left.  I have started the process of rebuilding it and will install it to compare to the new one.  I will have some empirical data to share with the forum once I’m finished, repleat with videos.
1947 CJ2a #119929    "Gus"
1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268   “Newt”

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VermontOverland View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VermontOverland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2020 at 10:30pm
Tstat from local parts store that I pulled on the left (open).  Replacement Walkes tstat on right (closed).  Stupid question, but shouldn't both be closed since it's not 160 deg out or are they only activated in fluid?  





Edited by VermontOverland - 06 June 2020 at 10:41pm
Peter Vollers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2020 at 10:45pm
Originally posted by VermontOverland VermontOverland wrote:

Tstat from local parts store that I pulled on the left (open).  Replacement Walkes tstat on right (closed).  Stupid question, but shouldn't both be closed since it's not 160 deg out or are they only activated in fluid?  



Hey Peter,
Can't speak for your specific stats, but some thermostats are designed to fail open. You pay a little more for them at the local parts store and, in my experience, they fail a little more often than regular thermostats. 
When I was a parts counter guy, I didn't like to sell the "fail open" type of thermostat because as part of the fail open design, they seemed to fail often.

Your mileage may vary.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VermontOverland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2020 at 10:53pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Originally posted by VermontOverland VermontOverland wrote:

Tstat from local parts store that I pulled on the left (open).  Replacement Walkes tstat on right (closed).  Stupid question, but shouldn't both be closed since it's not 160 deg out or are they only activated in fluid?  



Hey Peter,
Can't speak for your specific stats, but some thermostats are designed to fail open. You pay a little more for them at the local parts store and, in my experience, they fail a little more often than regular thermostats. 
When I was a parts counter guy, I didn't like to sell the "fail open" type of thermostat because as part of the fail open design, they seemed to fail often.

Your mileage may vary.

Thx, Stan. I'll install the Walkes!
Peter Vollers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jgodfrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 June 2021 at 11:25am
Thanks for this comparison.  I had my original radiator flushed and tested and it came back good.  But after the engine rebuild I have a slow leak somewhere near the bottom.  I took it back to the shop and watched him retest it - same result - good to go.  So I clean up and sealed the hose fittings on the outside chance it was dripping and running down the lower pipe into the mounting tray of the radiator.

Long story short, with the long list ahead of me I have decided to buy a new radiator.  Mine used to have a shroud, but someone hacked it off angrily.  So this time I was looking at the Walk's and Omix radiators.

I have purchased a ton of parts on this restoration and Carl has been, by far, my best ally. I know it's more, but have every bend in the right place, welded bottom bolts, felt inserts, et.al. (via your video) tipped the scale that direction.

Since I didn't have a shroud, I obviously didn't have the extension.  I am thinking I should do that too.

What are the thoughts on that?  It is an extra $50.

I see that it attaches with bolts, but is the shroud on the radiator threaded, or are their nuts on the back side?

Thanks again for the video.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 48willys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 June 2021 at 11:47am
When I bought mine a few years ago from Carl, the shroud wasn’t drilled for the extension. I had to use my extension to mark the holes, and with a block of wood on the back side to protect the core, drill them. Maybe he’s changed that since or will drill the holes for you, but its something to consider since it has to be done with radiator out.
The parts list shows bolts,nuts and washers for attaching it.

Edited by 48willys - 10 June 2021 at 11:51am
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