Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Your Jeep Project
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - MY '47 CJ-2A
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

MY '47 CJ-2A

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 567
Author
Message
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2020 at 11:33pm
Well I caught up on enough last winter, fall, and summer chores to the point that I can focus on real stuffSmile once again.  I'm ready to rebuild the D-44 series 3 power lok and then  rebuild the front D-30 series 4 power lok next.

Here's a picture of the cleaned up and new part

Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct. 2020 at 12:26am
I'm wondering, since this rear end will not be in use for a few years could I put a thin coat of petroleum jelly on all the innards of the PL to keep them from rusting?  Yes I will use LS oil once the rear end is assembled. I'm just concerned about moisture  is all and the P. jelly should thin out quickly.
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 4139
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct. 2020 at 8:34pm
Yeah Jim, I normally don’t Keep up with build threads.
Your used Powr Lok plates look perfectly normal. 
So long as they have no gouges they can certainly be re-used.
I would skip the petro jelly. 
Just put normal lube on the plates when you re-assemble the unit.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct. 2020 at 12:13am
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Yeah Jim, I normally don’t Keep up with build threads.
Your used Powr Lok plates look perfectly normal. 
So long as they have no gouges they can certainly be re-used.
I would skip the petro jelly. 
Just put normal lube on the plates when you re-assemble the unit.

Ken
Thanks for replying back. I did use Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90   to assemble the PL unit parts. Very sticky stuff!  If I am unable to make the new clutch pack work correctly, I will reuse the old disc's and use the new plates.
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct. 2020 at 12:54am
Well while attempting to rebuild the power lok I came across a puzzling problem.  This power lok is the one that Randy's was selling and then Randys sold it to Nitro and is made in India, so I have been told. I ordered a NOS Dana clutch pack and discovered the discs does not fit over the side gear splines. WONDERFUL!  I dug out an old clutch pack and tried one of the discs and it did not fit either.  I spoke with a few power lok GURUS and they were baffled and suggested filing the discs a little in which I did to no avail.  Another Forum member recently bought a new Nitro power lok unit and installed a Yukon clutch pack in it. SO I ordered the Yukon pack , go it, and guess what,.....it did not work. Last resort I found a Yukon inner parts kit for a VERY VERY reasonable price and it fits the Nitro case perfectly.  The original Nitro dics fit over the new yukon side gears but is extremely sloppy.   Wonder if the original Randy's/Nitro Units had metric parts mixed with in the unit.  The case bolts are not metric. 

 A big thanks to you guys that helped me out!!!!!

Here's the kit that solved the problem....besides money, LOL



Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2021 at 6:45pm
    Solving mysteries can take forever.  Some mysteries become "cold-cases" and are never solved.
    hahahaha

    Well, Jim, post up some new progress photos if you would.    

      thanks, and i hope to stop by this spring so we can evaluate our mis-comings & good-fortune.
   hahaha

      I am back tinkering on my T-18 to L134 conversion after a 14 month haitus.

      Len
Back to Top
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2021 at 9:33pm
Hi Len
Seems its 1 step forward 3 steps back, LOL.  I have had a overwhelming amount of projects come up BUT, as of about 2 weeks ago, I am back at work on the 2A.  Got the frame welded up in key areas ---- basically re welding crap factory welds and stitch welding  brackets for strength and peace of mind.

Just finished up "RECLEANING" the Power Lok parts for the D-44 rear diff and have all the parts laid out for assembly. 
FEELS GREAT TO GET BACK TO WORK!

Will be ordering up a frame paint kit through KBS next week so I can get the frame painted.

Come by when ya can!
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2021 at 12:54am
FINALY, making progress on the 2A. My KBS goodies came in and with good cool weather it's time to go to work on the frame.  

Hooked the frame up to the cheery picker and sprayed it down with KBS KLEEN then rinsed it off and rolled it back into the heated garage to dry.



Next day the frame rolled out and was treated with KBS Rust Blast, rinsed off, and rolled frame back into the heated garage.  I used an garden sprayer with a extended wand and a brass atomizer nozzle I came across. This set up worked very well. I left the heater on over night to help dry the frame.





The next step for the frame is applying a couple of coats of KBS Rust Seal. Stay Tuned.
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2021 at 2:13am
I'm back at rebuilding a Power Lok again. 
After having trouble finding NOS parts OR decent after-market parts for a fair price, I thought all was good to go in reassembling the D-44 Power Lok Unit. As mentioned, with a pic, a few posts up, I bought a Yukon PL clutch pack and complete gear set. Basically, All the internal guts for a PL.  Upon reassembling it, I noticed that it was not torqueing down correctly so it was disassemble time. Found that a cross shaft had snapped in two, KRAP!.  I checked, re-checked, and re-checked to see if "I" screwed up but found nada in how the PL was assembled.  I honestly concluded that the cross shaft was bad. Tried contacting Yukon and pressed ? for customer service and the line simply went dead.....multiple times.  Tried their tek line and got 1/2 hour of advertising for Randy's BS World.  Called and wrote to Randys for NADA!  Very disappointing.  I found out Yukon is having issues so beware of this BS.
With a lot of research, the correct cross shaft for a D-44 flanged diff should be solid  as used in a PL in a D-44 FRT diff.  Yukon and others use cross shafts with a center hole which are used for Dana tapered two piece axles. They are not as strong BUT should work if that's all there is. After many phone calls, and Emails later, Rich from R&P had a set of Dana solid D-44 cross shafts for a fair price and once again it's  time to reassemble the PL. 

I decided to used a axle as a work stand along as to help align the PL innards up. I put a hose clamp on the axle shaft so that the axle would be a 1/4" from hitting the cross shaft.  This makes a good work platform while aligning up the innards.


It was easy to make sure the cultch pack and side gear were all stacked correctly since with a little effort one can turn/spin
 the innards around.


You can see that the cross shafts are the solid type.



Clutch pack is oiled up, in place, and ready for the case to slide over it.


Cases bolted up, both axles are in position to keep the innards aligned, bolts torque to 40LBS. Case halves are meshed together and 
cross shafts look good.  NO broken cross shafts. I did use lok tite blue on the bolts due to reading that guys have experienced the bolts loosening up.  



Edited by jeepsterjim - 08 Feb. 2021 at 5:01pm
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2021 at 9:27pm
The rear disc brake assemblies came in today for my 1971 D-44 off set flanged diff.  These calipers assemblies came out of a 2019 Edge and are stamp #316 so they should work well.  Darn things look almost like new. Even the pads are in great shape.   



Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar. 2021 at 4:22am
FoMoCo Discs look doable.

Did you get the caliper brackets to modify for your axle assembly ?

I had a great visit with my buddies in Sacto yesterday, and will hopefully catch you home on my next trek-for-sanity.

Nice build-stand for assembling the "migraine" Locking Diff.
Back to Top
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar. 2021 at 6:35am
Originally posted by Greaser007 Greaser007 wrote:

FoMoCo Discs look doable.

Did you get the caliper brackets to modify for your axle assembly ?

I had a great visit with my buddies in Sacto yesterday, and will hopefully catch you home on my next trek-for-sanity.

Nice build-stand for assembling the "migraine" Locking Diff.

Len, all the mounting hardware come from Brennan Metcalf. He makes kits for D-25, 27, 30, Frt. diffs and both D-44 two piece and flanged axle diffs. NO welding. Brennan makes a lot of cool stuff.


Ya the tire/axle stand worked out great! Seemed a good way to align the clutch plates.

Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
jeepsterjim View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 13 July 2011
Location: lincoln, ca
Status: Offline
Points: 1272
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2021 at 3:57am
Worked on cleaning up the Bell housing, T-90C Transmission, D-18 X-fer, and Husky overdrive. This includes all external and internal parts. Then spent way to much time finding proper bolt lengths. When done, they will be bagged and tagged for easier assembly. 




Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 567

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2022 Web Wiz Ltd.