Installing a SM420 behind a Dauntless |
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bobevans
Member Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Oh my what a terrible shame. Thank God all are safe.
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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Finished the front driveshaft last night. Like the rear driveshaft i had to counterbore the tube to fit the yoke and spline piece. I'm not sure if that is the proper way of building a driveshaft but it's how I did it. Looks like there is plenty of clearance for the driveline to move up and down with the suspension. I also got the park brake cable all hooked up and adjusted. I then installed the skid plate. I think the exhaust is all that's left to do under the Jeep. I will stop by the parts store today and buy what I need to complete it.
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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Metcalf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Is that a 1310 u-joint at the transfer case side? |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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I believe so. It is what the late 60's CJ5's with the V6 came equipped with on the front driveshaft from the factory if I'm not mistaken. I had thought about changing it over to the standard size so I don't have to have several different sizes of u-joints in the Jeep as spares. It is the same size yoke on both ends of the front shaft at least. Edited by AKoller - 22 Aug. 2019 at 7:22pm |
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 646 |
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The smaller factory V6 joint is 5-248X I believe.
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1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s
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Metcalf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Gotcha. I thought it looked a little smaller. That was always a hitch with the sm420 reverse bulge and adapter length vs clocking. I had a custom adapter that used an even smaller unit. I just never fully trusted it.
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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I finished the exhaust this weekend and started in on fabricating a new transmission cover. This is the part of the swap I was not looking forward to. I am just not very good at metal work. I hope to have it done by the end of this week. With back to school events for my kids several evenings this week we will have to see.
I'm just using the sheet metal screws to hold it in place while putting it together. Once it is done I will replace the screws with threaded inserts in the tub in order to bolt it down. Edited by AKoller - 26 Aug. 2019 at 4:16pm |
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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JeepFever
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2012 Location: VA Status: Online Points: 2749 |
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Are you making drawings as you go, so I can copy it.
It is has been a year since I put SM420 in mine, and it still just has a carpet covering the hole. Seriously though, I would not be able to copy yours, because I plan to modify a M38 cover . . . some day.
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AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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Well, I'm about to wrap this swap up. I finished the transmission cover this weekend. All that's left is to install the shifter boots which I don't have yet. I got quite a few miles on it this weekend both on and off-road. I really like the 85:1 crawl and the added synchronized forward gear. I head to Colorado with it in a few weeks so when I get back I will give full report on how I think it did.
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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That's a functional and good looking shift tower cover.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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Well, I got back from Colorado Sunday evening. I would say I gave the tranny a pretty good test out there. While out there I did the following trails:
-Tin Cup Pass (returned up "Old Tin Cup Pass") -Mt. Princeton -Spring Creek Trail -Pomeroy Lake Trail -Mt. Antero (drove up to 13,800') -Iron Chest Mine Trail -Grizzly Lake Trail -Hancock Pass -Schofield Pass/Crystal Canyon I really like the 85:1 crawl ratio. Now that I have it I don't know that I would ever be happy with anything much less than that again. Funny how that works. I love the option of being able to slow crawl an obstacle up on a shelf road. My nerves are much more relaxed. The only real problem I've been having is it wants to pop out of 3rd gear while under acceleration. I doesn't seem to do it during deceleration or using your engine to hold your speed while going down hill. I was thinking it is probably either a synchro issue or a worn gear. I guess there is a possibility that the top loader isn't fully shifting it into gear but it feels like it "clicks in" so I don't think that is the issue. Has anyone ever had this issue that can point me in the right direction? I have at least 3 more events planned in the next 4-6 weeks with the Jeep. If it is a quick and easy fix I would like to get it done ahead of these events. If not, it will be a winter project because I can get by using it the way it is for now. |
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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My SM420 experience is 40 years old.
That said I suggest you shift it into 3rd . Then remove the shift tower assembly straight up to determine if 3rd is fully engaged via the shift forks.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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Shifter boots are on so I guess that means this swap is done. I still need to figure out my popping out of 3rd gear issue. I have 3 more trail events this month so I am just going to wait till I'm done with those before looking into it much more.
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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JeepFever
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2012 Location: VA Status: Online Points: 2749 |
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Have you tried this yet? I have been mostly happy with stock Dauntless 2GC, but it gave some issues yesterday, and wondering if something better?
I have a 2100 and 2150 from previous V8 CJ-7 projects. With an adapter, will they fit until the hood of a '2A? |
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AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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I have not yet installed it on Thumper. I didn’t get the kit from Metcalf until after I was home from Colorado. Including this weekends Qwaaazy 8 event at Tuttle I have 3 Jeep events in a 3 week time frame so I figured I would just leave well enough alone until I get done wheeling for the year. I hope to get it put on later this fall or winter. I will definitely let you know how it goes. I’ll tell you though, I have made some changes to the 2GC that have made a big difference in its off-road performance. First I installed a spring loaded needle and seat. This was commonly done on the marine applications with these carbs to help their performance in wake. Second I took a piece of 1/4” steel fuel/brake line and forced it down into the vent hole in the top of the fuel bowl extending the vent up several inches. That also helped some but while in Colorado, Nivrat (Mike Tarvin) suggested installing a piece of 1/4 rubber fuel line about 12” long on my extended vent pipe and letting the rubber line just coil up in my air breather. This allows any fuel that may splash up into my vent tube/hose to dissipate/evaporate before it can get back into the carburetor. This made a huge difference in its performance. I am still not 100% satisfied with how it runs with the 2GC so I’m curious how it does with the Motorcraft set up. Stay tuned... I just hate all this r and d I’m having to do out on the trails.
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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I guess I didn’t answer your question about if it will fit under the hood. From the measurements I took, I don’t believe it will stand any taller than the 2GC.
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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sonoblast77
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2010 Location: Warrenton, MO Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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I'm guessing you didn't move your engine the 3 1/2" you talked about at the beginning of the thread, since u cut driveshafts. How did u decide where to place the engine? How much did u cut the rear driveshaft? I'm in the middle of a dauntless/ t-18 install, just wondering if my engine is about in the right place. I realize the 18 is longer then the 420. Trying to keep shifter from being to far under dash too. And trying to run a mechanical fan. Just curious before i burn these engine mounts in. Thanks Wade.
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AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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The only change I made to the engine is it now sits level in the engine compartment. With the T90 I had the engine where it sat lower in the rear. The valve cover on the drivers sit was nearly touching the firewall. In order to get the SM420 to sit as high as possible I changed the engine to where it sits pretty close to level. By raising the back of the engine up it moved it away from the firewall. It now sit about a full inch away from the firewall. I ended up shortening the rear driveshaft about 4 inches. With the rear axle hanging at full droop my rear shaft is sitting at a 23 degree angle so it’s well within the 27.5 degree spec. If you do go with a mechanical fan be sure to build a shroud for it. I had some heating issues even with a larger aluminum radiator running a mechanical flex fan. Part of the problem is the fan doesn’t run centered on the radiator. I went to a 16” shrouded electric fan and that helped a lot. The only time I had any heating issues with it in Colorado was the day we went up Antero. If you remember we had to stop on the way up to let mine cool down. I found that anytime I would run it at about 2000 rpm and higher for long periods of time at slow speeds it would start to warm up. After returning home I started doing some looking into the issue and found my timing was 6-7 degrees retarded. I reset the timing and now it doesn’t matter how I run it, it will not go over 190 degrees.
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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