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CJ2A Vibration/Grinding when Turning
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47 deuce alpha View Drop Down
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Points: 656 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47 deuce alpha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 June 2020 at 9:33pm
Looks like you may have Dana Spicer King type pin bearing caps that are all one piece. Maybe someone smarter than me will verify but I don't think your GPW kingpins will work with that bearing cap. Your kingpin don't look that bad, the bearing should take most of the wear if it is properly shimmed and lubricated. The rubber seal should go directly into the knuckle support, then the felt seal, then the metal retainer flange. The rubber seals I got from KW looks different, it is a one piece seal that is cut so that it will go over the knuckle.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram/cj-2a-diagrams/axle-diagrams-willys-cj-2a/dana-25-27-front-axle/dana-25-27-front-axle      ;
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I just ended up using the original king pins and there does not seem to be any play. I also found an exploded diagram showing that the rubber seal goes in before the felt does. 

Unfortunately I think I will need to get a new axle. After rebuilding the bendix joint there is quite a bit of play back and forth. If I purchase a new axle does it need to be another bendix or could I replace it with a spicer? I am not sure what is on the passengers side.


Ryan
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47 deuce alpha View Drop Down
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Points: 656 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47 deuce alpha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2020 at 2:20am
Spicer, Bendix, Or Rzeppa will work, just be sure it's the same end and spline as your old one. Be sure and check your turn radius when you get it all back together, it's different for each axle.

Edited by 47 deuce alpha - 14 June 2020 at 2:23am
1947 CJ2A 90419
1947 CJ2A 127735
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1955 Kaiser Willys Pickup
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Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
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Originally posted by 101stairborne 101stairborne wrote:




I hope that kingpin bearing race is actually better than it looks in this pic.  Does the bearing rotate smoothly in the race?  It appears that it will not.  I had 270 degrees of play in my steering wheel and replacing (and properly adjusting) the kingpin bearings/races took out 180 degrees of slop. 
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Ol' Unreliable - I did replace the cups and bearings. The old ones were as bad as they look in the photo. There is no slop when turning the wheel, just slop when rotating the tire.
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Points: 128 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 101stairborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2020 at 1:53am
So I decided to put it all back together and take it for a short test drive. I figured the axle has worked for 70+ years a short five minute drive wouldn't hurt. 

Good news is that there are no new noises and the knuckle doesn't leak anymore. Bad news is that there is still a terrible noise when turning sharply. 

I decided to look at the bellcrank next. There is a considerable amount of wobble on the shaft and after getting it off there is some uneven wear. 

It looks like there is a bushing in the bellcrank - can this be replaced or does the whole unit need to be tossed?







Thanks,

Ryan
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I always just replace the bell crank. 

With the visible wear on that bushing, I would bet the ball for the drag link is also worn and that will cause some slop. I always rebuild the drag link too.
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If its the early bellcrank with the ball facing down it can be very costly.

There is someone here on the forum that does rebuild the bellcrank, including the ball. The search feature is you friend.
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Originally posted by cdn2a cdn2a wrote:

If its the early bellcrank with the ball facing down it can be very costly.

There is someone here on the forum that does rebuild the bellcrank, including the ball. The search feature is you friend.


Bolding mine.

Only if you use the "Advanced Search" feature. Without that the search feature is, IMHO & IME, useless.
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Hi folks,

I had some time to get some work done this weekend and overall it was pretty successful. 

I ordered a new bellcrank from Walcks - which was pricey, but it seems like a high quality part - very close the original. I also got the bellcrank rebuild kit and a drag link repair kit. 

I had a heck of a time getting that stupid tapered pin out. I ended up removing the grille and radiator just so I could get at it better. After spending an afternoon getting the pin out the next step was the shaft that the bellcrank pivots on. 



I had some more "fun" trying to get the shaft out. After a lot of heating, PB blasting and hammering it finally came out!



The Walcks rebuild kit comes with a threaded tapered pin to replace the original style pin that has a chance of coming loose. Unfortunately I ruined the threads on the kit provided one, so I ended up making my own by grinding down a grade 8 bolt. 





I got everything back together and the steering is very tight now! I took it for a test drive and eliminated one of the problems. It no longer knocks when turning (I am guessing this was the old bellcrank wobbling on the shaft when turning that caused this noise).

However it still makes a scraping/grinding noise when turning left only. I put it in 4WD and the noise was much worse when turning. Any ideas what might cause this? 

Also sorry for the sideways pictures - not sure how to get them to rotate.

Ryan
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The more and more I think about it and the more research I do makes me think that the axle is definitely the cause of the noise. I pulled 3 axles from my other parts jeeps and have one other bendix in OK condition and two Rzeppas in pretty good condition. 

Can I swap the bendix for a rzeppa and still have a bendix on the passengers side? If I switch to a rzeppa does anything need to be adjusted? I am guessing the shim amount will be different.

Thanks,

Ryan
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47 deuce alpha View Drop Down
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Points: 656 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47 deuce alpha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2020 at 2:14am
You can run different axles in each side. The Rzeppa will actually stand a tighter turn radius, about 29 degrees I think. One type of axle required a bronze bushing in the ball of the housing. I think it was a Bendix axle, I don't think you will need the bushing if you go with a Rzeppa.

Note: Just looked over my old notes and made a couple corrections, take a look at the old post, good info from very knowledgeable folks
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/front-axle-shaft-replacement_topic25095.html

Edited by 47 deuce alpha - 16 July 2020 at 2:30am
1947 CJ2A 90419
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So I got the "new" rzeppa in on the drivers side and took it for a test drive - still making a noise. After driving around slowly in circles it sounded like the noise was not coming from the front, but from the middle or rear of the vehicle. 

Long story short it ended up being the tailpipe was rubbing on the rear tire! When I replaced the worn out brake pedal before this whole mess started I had to disconnect the exhaust so I could slide the pedal arm on and off. Apparently I didn't get the exhaust back to where it was before. After adjusting the tailpipe the noise is gone! I am still not sure why it only happened when I turned left though...

Overall it ended up being a good learning experience on the different kinds of axles, how to replace king pin bearings, etc!

Thanks for all of the feedback and suggestions!

Ryan
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Lesson learned: It's always something...
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A great quote from Henry Ford:
"One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his surprise, is to find he can do what he was afraid he couldn't do"

Well executed Ryan.  I especially like the home made taper pin!
One note on the large bellcrank nut - be sure to crank that sucker to full torque specs - "70-90 foot pounds".  When I rebuilt mine, I didn't get it to full torque, and there was quite a bit of movement in the bellcrank when turning.  Finally traced it back to the nut being tight, but not to full torque spec.

Best, Jeff
Jeff
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