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diagnosing difficult starting

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Oldpappy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 1:00pm
It only takes a tiny little bit of debris to block the float valve. Carefully remove the top of the carburetor and see if there is any fuel is in the bowl. Pull it straight up being careful not to bend anything.

If the bowl is empty, or near empty, remove the pin to remove the float, pull out the valve plunger and blow out the passage with compressed air or if you don't have a compressor squirt carburetor cleaner through the passage. 

NEED to have a filter in the line, preferably at the carb, the screen in the fuel pump only strains out larger debris.
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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cekees View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cekees Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 1:36pm
Thank you. I'm working on that. About the fuel filter: my understanding is that it's not original, but I imagine it's wise these days. I had a small plastic fuel filter before the pump, which is the only section where I have fuel-grade flexible line now (rest is steel). There's enough play in the line to put in a filter at the carb. Any recommendations on what fuel filter to go with at a location between the pump and carve given that I have a hard steel line there with threaded connections at both ends?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 2:07pm
If I can find one I use a glass bowl Carter filter with the ceramic element. This is the best filter ever made and they last forever because you can clean the element with solvent. They aren't easy to find, and they aren't cheap.

My second favorite is a glass bowl AC style filter with the replaceable paper element. These can be found at suppliers who sell parts for old Chevys. I have bought them from Danchuck Manufacturing. Their item number for the filter is 1090. They also sell the fitting you need to install it to the carburetor, and replacement elements.  

I mount the filter to the Carburetor and the flair fitting for hard line coming from the pump to the input side of the filter. 

I avoid rubber fuel lines with clamps. The only flex line on my Jeeps is the one from the frame hard line to the pump, and these have fittings not clamps. 


Edited by Oldpappy - 23 Dec. 2021 at 2:13pm
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 3:14pm
Here's a thread with some images:

Rus Curtis
Alabama
1954 CJ3B
Bantam T3-C
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 3:17pm
You do have some kind of flexible fuel line between the frame & the fuel pump? If not, the vibration of the engine will crack/break the hard fuel line. You do not want that. It can get very ugly very fast!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 3:31pm
I don't know if that question was for me, or not, but yes I do have a flex line from frame to pump. 

"The only flex line on my Jeeps is the one from the frame hard line to the pump, and these have fittings not clamps."  


If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cekees Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2021 at 8:11pm
OK, thank you. Got it running today after cleaning the float valve--bowl was dry and valve was stuck shut. 

I too have just a short flex line from frame to pump. I decided not to go with a fuel filter quite yet at the carb. I'll be looking for the glass bowl carter filter. 

After adjusting the idle mixture and warming up, I drained the oil (was very dirty), refilled with 10W30, and topped off the coolant. I ran it around the pasture a few times after that, but the temperature didn't level off, so I took it back to the barn at nearly 220 degrees. There's some coolant leaking into the oil. 

I think the difficulty starting was indeed burned points/bad condenser preventing firing (at first) and then the stuck float valve from sitting too long.  I'm wondering if I've had a leaky head gasket (or worse) all along.
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