Grampa's Cj2a |
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Iowawillys
Member Joined: 08 Jan. 2009 Location: Barnum, Iowa Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Your jeep will lose value if you refinish it from what I have heard ! I ended up finding a rolling chassis that had all the major powertrain components in it for cheap. I still need to go through them with small parts kits and the such, but way cheaper than buying a new tranny or the new guts. The guys and gals on this site are great, they have a wealth of knowledge and are happy to share it! Again welcome.
Edited by Iowawillys - 08 Oct. 2010 at 3:16am |
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samcj2a
Member Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 21 Oct. 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Status: Offline Points: 8549 |
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jeep795
Member Joined: 17 June 2009 Location: Three Rivers,MA Status: Offline Points: 171 |
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When i rebuilt my transmission i lucked out and didn't have to replace any gears. even still it was just about 200 bucks in parts. the synchro is not cheap. If that tranny has the right numbers on it and you want to keep everything "parts matching" or as close to it as you can, find a parts jeep or another transmission and swap parts into it.
Your jeep really doesn't look too too bad. Hows the frame? If it's one thing i wish i did different, i wish i had gotten mine running before i started tearing parts off of it. Take lots of pictures for orientation of bolts and wires and alot of before and after pictures.
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Longhunter
Member Joined: 13 Dec. 2006 Location: Meridian, MS Status: Offline Points: 2171 |
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"GPW" is the Ford designation they put on the blocks and other things they manufactured for the gov during WWII. They made sure they stamped everything they made with a script "F" so everyone would know they made it. It was still the same design and specs as all the Willys parts so that is why you see the mix of parts on your Jeep. From 1942 until ......... these L134 engine parts will all bolt up and work for the most part. Your head is a later model Willys head but still bolts up to a GPW block. How about a few more pics of your engine.
The SN will be stamped on an oval boss just behind where the oil filter goes.
ALSO, how about a pic of the lower part of the block on the passenger side. All the casting information is shown there.
Isn't this FUN?
Edited by Longhunter - 08 Oct. 2010 at 2:11pm |
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Mike in Mississippi
2006 Jeep Rubicon 1946 CJ2a #49667 1946 Bantam T3-C #7909 1 UNDERSTANDING Wife "2 wrongs don't make a right but 3 rights will make a left".... Gallagher |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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I've started pulling things apart. The rustbox of a transmission I took apart and the case and pieces are at the machine shop for a hot bath. We'll see what I can save of it when I get it back. I did run down to Saratoga Springs and pick up a spare t90 and transfer case. I think I can probably use the transfer case in place of the rusty thing I have and the transmission will be a parts donor to fix up my old rustbox. This spare transmission has what looks like a Chevy adapter bolted onto it. I won't be needing that if anyone wants it Thanks captianpattson for the tip on the gear box and transfer case. I pulled the engine out today. I have been dumping Marvel Mystery oil down the spark plug holes and carb for week or so now and I still can't get the engine to turn with my breaker bar, so I guess I'll pull it apart. I pretty much was going to have to anyway. Most of the Marvel Mystery Oil leaked out from various gaskets and seals so it at least needs those all new. Ran the starter and generator down to our local shop. I think they probably need all new bushings, bearings etc. And it would be nice if they can get all those mud daubber nests out of them too. Mike in Mississippi asked for some more photos of my engine, especially numbers so here they are:
1st one is midway on the passenger side. 2nd one is behind the oil filter. Third one is lowdown on the passenger side.
Stan
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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I also found on the flat spot by the water pump a stamped letter "A"
Headed to the deer hunt with my dad and brothers this week end. Maybe next year Grampa's Jeep will go with us. It won't be pretty by then for sure, but maybe it will go and stop.
Stan
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Block is late 1945 Ford GPW.. Looks like the jeep was Luzon Red at one time. Guard that original horn and the gage set with your life, and be really careful removing the temperature gage line from the head, they break if twisted and are $$$ to fix.
Your coil has an interesting mounting bracket, I am wondering if i may be the rare in dash coil that someone mounted on the firewall..
Post some pics of the hardtop....
I was just up in Ogden the other day at the surplus place, and had time to kill... Wish I'd known who else was around with a 2A! (That Surplus place you can see from the highway is amazing, wish I had visited it 20 years ago..most of the outside junk is junk now.. but I managed to get a 2A tub with door hardware from them.! ) Edited by F Bill - 19 Oct. 2010 at 3:05pm |
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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Glad I could help with the transmission. Let me know if there is anything else I can help with:) I went out to Smith and Edwards myself a few months ago and they said they didn't have anything for jeeps, I don't think they even know whats out there anymore...
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Smith and Edwards is 5 minutes from my house. During my Air Force days I would tell people all around the world that I was from Ogden and they would ask me about Smith and Edwards. For those of you that don't know about them, they have 60 acres of outside surplus, most of which has been sitting there for many years. Inside they have many thousands of square feet of hardware, surplus, sporting goods, house wares, and a lunch counter to boot. One of the weirdest, coolest stores in the world. Thanks for the encouragement and info on Grandpa’s Jeep. It really isn't as rusty as it looks because there is a red color underneath. Before I started reading this forum I thought it was primer, but I'm pretty sure that it is actually the Luzon Red. The engine seems to have been painted light blue at one time. Maybe at the same time the rest of the jeep got the light blue color that is on it. I think I already busted the temperature line . Stan |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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By the way if anyone is thinking of going there for jeep parts most of what is still around outside is a very few random junk 151 series parts including a 30 foot round pile of NOS seat frames rusting away in the sun, and very little if anything else. One of their employees had a 2a and a m38a1 tub on a rack outside, repairable but rough, and I dragged off the 2A tub. They don't even have any mutt wheels, and the 700 16 tire pile is ready for the recycler...No small trailers either. Inside is a whole different story....Think of Cabellas /True Value/and a surplus store all merged together with a flea market hardware vendor.
Still worth a visit if you are nearby. Just don't plan on getting any jeep stuff unless you want seats for your 151. They do have boxes of canvas strap parts, you could probably set yourself up with enough material to make straps for top bows, and windshield hold down pretty easily. Edited by F Bill - 19 Oct. 2010 at 7:57pm |
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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We'll I got some bad news today. I've had the engine down at the machine shop for a going through. Earlier they said that everything looked good, except the cylinders need sleeves. Today I got a call and they said that when they were boring out the #4 cylinder f I'm already into this one a few hundred dollars worth of machine work and now it's junk.
Stan Edited by smfulle - 30 Nov. 2010 at 10:04pm |
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hillbilly21
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 18 June 2006 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4964 |
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DONT GIVE UP.....RUN AN ADD HERE 4 A BLOCK OR COMPLETE ENGINE..I GOT ONE BUT ITS IN NC..
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Lots of buildable blocks are still out there..I would hope the machine shop would give you a break as their boring job rendered the block unuseable as well as any other work done to the block. ......and they do want your work on the new engine, I hope. I have several blocks in TX, but I would bet you can find something closer... Or perhaps you can find a nice low hour generator set engine to build up a new 134 from..
By the way.. save the bearing caps and bolts from the old block before scrapping it. Someone who has a block with missing bearing caps may be able to use them, (with appropriate line boring, etc..)
EDIT... I forgot that was a GPW block.... Let me know if you want to sell those bearing caps, I have a GPW block missing caps myself. Edited by F Bill - 30 Nov. 2010 at 10:41pm |
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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I know a guy in Fort Bridger who has a couple blocks sitting in his back yard. I could ask him if your interested. There is also a guy on ksl in Eagle Mountain who has a rebuilt F-Head sitting in a crate for $700 OBO. You would need to do a little modifying on the hood and mount plate. I've got a rebuilt carb for it I found out I couldn't use...
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Not sure what I should do right now. Kaiser Willys has "low milage engines" for sale, but they say they haven't been run for 30 years so who knows what they are really like and they want a pretty good penny for them and then they would still need work. I could probably drive to Ft Bridger for one if the price was right and the thing was actually rebuildable. I thought the one I had was good, so I guess you don't really know until you tear into them. Don't think I really want to go the F head route. I guess I have some time anyway. No garage and low 20's and snow around here right now. Bill thanks for the PM. I'll save all the parts and see what's left when this is all done.
Stan
Edited by smfulle - 01 Dec. 2010 at 2:45pm |
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54ball
Member Joined: 01 Dec. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 68 |
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I may be showing my ignorance about the Go Devil but I have some comments and questions about that GPW block.
It is my understanding that the military blocks came new with sleeves. If so should it not just require a clean up of the bore before a new sleeve is installed instead of a deep bore? I know with Ford Flathead V8s the best cure for a cracked or bored through cylinder is a sleeve. Shouldn't the sleeve itself seal the bore? With the advances in technology like mig and tig welders and even some epoxies, could the block be repaired enough to accept a sleeve? I know it would be an expensive repair but this is a WW2 Ford GPW block. The block may be worth keeping. I do not know the whole story. Its possible that it may have just been corroded up so bad it went to pieces or it could have been freeze damaged and cracked up which would explain a lot. Most everything can be repaired but expense makes it prohibitive. Some day that GPW block may indeed be worth salvaging. I would keep it in a corner and find another engine to build. I wasn't going to go here but I will. It seems, at least in my area the closer you get to the junk yard the more unscrupulous people become. More than one rare engine has been "ruined" only to turn up later in a high dollar restoration. Did you see the damage? Edited by 54ball - 07 Dec. 2010 at 6:56am |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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I guess it all depends on how large a hole they ended up with in the cylinder wall... GPW's were not sleeved from the factory.
I know the tractor guys occasionally do epoxy in a sleeve in a cracked cylinder .
With the demand for the Ford blocks I would explore this a bit further before I scrapped the block.
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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I walked back in the machine shop and looked at the damage. There was a hole with thin ragged edges, The hole was about the size of a quarter and very near the bottom of the cylinder. Machinist said that there was not enough metal there to get a reliable seal on the sleeve. This is a pretty reliable shop that has been open for many years. Kids from my high school were having the small blocks from their Chevelles built there in the 70's. I don't plan on leaving them the block, but I am not emotionally attached to it either. My jeep is a CJ, not a GPW. I believe that my Grampa or my uncles must have put this engine in the Willys as a replacement when the one they had went Tango Uniform. Machinist showed me where what looked like a bunch of muck and mud were dumping in to the cylinder through the rotted out hole. They seemd to think that the water jacket was pretty much filled up with mud and corrosion and that the whole block was propably in danger of collapsing. I would gladly trade this GPW block and all the lovely F script rod cap bolts and such for something I could actually make run without making my daughter come home from college to pay for it.
Still looking for a block. Have to call a guy in Wyoming and see if what he has is worth the drive. Not much time right now. My renters just moved out and left me a mess. Have to get that place fixed before I can play around with the Jeep. One good thing, my wife and kids are getting me a blast cabinet for Christmas so I can have loads of fun blasting away 60 years of rust and such on all the little detail parts. Any one have preferences on the type of blast media to get?
Stan
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