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Grampa's Cj2a

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Bob W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 12:56am
I've been running those M170/late M38A1 shackles for a while now, including the Rubicon, on X98. Mine are NOS parts. No problems except for constant shearing off the grease fittings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spinnas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 1:11am
Is that 3 stacked factory skid plates in the pic of the broken crossmember?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 1:12am
Originally posted by Bob W Bob W wrote:

I've been running those M170/late M38A1 shackles for a while now, including the Rubicon, on X98. Mine are NOS parts. No problems except for constant shearing off the grease fittings.

These are Omix, so we’ll see how they hold up.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aboyandhisdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 1:58am
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Originally posted by Bob W Bob W wrote:

I've been running those M170/late M38A1 shackles for a while now, including the Rubicon, on X98. Mine are NOS parts. No problems except for constant shearing off the grease fittings.

These are Omix, so we’ll see how they hold up.


Stan, I also have had these for 10 years and they are a superior shackle to the "C" shackle.  Of course I am not doing the rock crawling like some of you, but I have confidence that they would hold up without issue. 

I will ad that with these M38-1A style shackles, the grease goes directly into the end of the shackle, through the shackle, and then exits into the center area of the threaded bushing.  A much better design for greasing than the standard "C" shackle where it just goes in to the end of the threaded bushing and then seems to pretty much dead head against the end of the shackle.  If a guy looks at it carefully you can see what I mean - grease gets directly in to the threads where the action is.
Tom
1949 CJ3A

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 2:24am
Originally posted by Spinnas Spinnas wrote:

Is that 3 stacked factory skid plates in the pic of the broken crossmember?
Maybe.... 
I bent one skid plate pretty badly.
Somebody (i think Stev) suggested two stacked together.
I stacked two together and bent them both up into the driveline.
So i got another one and stacked 3 together. They are much tougher to bend.

Amazing  what kind of damage those mall curbs can do.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 2:36am
Stan, PM me your address. I'm pretty sure I have a set of NOS shackles to donate to grandpa's Jeep. I'd like to see if they fit better than the ones in your picture. They don't look right to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug. 2019 at 4:05am
Shackles should ship tomorrow. Question? How did you handle that all the caps on these shackles are right hand thread? Doesn't that mean 1 front and one rear will be cross threaded? Or did you ream it out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug. 2019 at 4:24am
Originally posted by Joe Friday Joe Friday wrote:

Shackles should ship tomorrow. Question? How did you handle that all the caps on these shackles are right hand thread? Doesn't that mean 1 front and one rear will be cross threaded? Or did you ream it out?

The mismatched threads are on the spring side of the shackle. The threaded bushing cuts its own threads in the spring eye. I just used my inner bubba and let the thing cut the opposite threads in the spring..
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug. 2019 at 7:08am
ok cool.      I didn't want to ship mismatched parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug. 2019 at 1:39pm
I have some Rubicon shackles I'll send ya too!  Send me your shipping address and 27 bucks!  😁


She can dance a cajun rhythm....jump like a Willy's in four wheel drive...("Sugar Magnolia")

'48 CJ2A #204845 "Lumpy"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug. 2019 at 1:59pm
Originally posted by ricco ricco wrote:

I have some Rubicon shackles I'll send ya too!  Send me your shipping address and 27 bucks!  😁




Hah, I’ve already have parts that look like that. Not as many as you though.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug. 2019 at 3:47pm
As you know all frame shackle brackets are RH threads. 
For 2A , 3A and pre-1959  3B only the 2 lower oddball shackles were installed with  LH threads. (spring eyes only)

In 1959 Willys Motors was having trouble sourcing the "U' type shackles.
At that time they started using the conventional designed "Silent Blok" shackles on many of the 3B's.
The exact same shackles as the CJ-5 used.
They soon went back to "U" type shackles when they became available again.
Anyway after 1960 the oddball LH shackles were often times not being used.
At times the RH "U" type shackles were being used in place of LH.
In fact using only the RH threaded shackles eventually became the late 3B standard.
So in effect the post 1959 3B's used all possible configurations excepting the Military type shackles.

Bottom line is shackle selection makes little difference concerning fitment to the frame brackets.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep. 2019 at 2:09am
Stan let us know how the three skid plates work out.  I am still running 2 but if 3 does the trick it is an easy thing to add.

Also do you have a locker in the front or rear?

Stev
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep. 2019 at 2:46am
F
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

Stan let us know how the three skid plates work out.  I am still running 2 but if 3 does the trick it is an easy thing to add.

Also do you have a locker in the front or rear?

Stev

I’ve been running three skid plates for a while now. They take a beating but I’m pretty confident that my belly is safe. I also have made some plates to protect my pedal cross tube and cross member. 
The three skid plates are pretty heavy and I lose a little bit of clearance, but the trade off is worth it to me.

I have Lock Right lockers in both stock axles.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aboyandhisdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep. 2019 at 2:52am
Stan,  how do the Lock Rights affect every-day driving on regular roads?  How does the jeep turn, how are mpg's affected? 
Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep. 2019 at 3:17am
Originally posted by aboyandhisdog aboyandhisdog wrote:

Stan,  how do the Lock Rights affect every-day driving on regular roads?  How does the jeep turn, how are mpg's affected? 

The Lock Rights do give you a little bit of torque steer on acceleration and decelerations but as long as you know it’s there it’s not an issue. In 2wd there is no other effect. Jeep turns just like normal.
I haven’t done much gas mileage comparison. I can’t really imagine that the lockers would make any difference there one way or another.

Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct. 2019 at 3:04am
Stan,

Did you trim the bummer length of your front bumper?  Considering trimming mine.  Just wondering if
you had shortened yours. 
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct. 2019 at 5:43am
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

Stan,

Did you trim the bummer length of your front bumper?  Considering trimming mine.  Just wondering if
you had shortened yours. 

After bending the ends of my bumper multiple times I cut off several inches from each end.
I still bash it from time to time, but it is easier now to get one tire up on things before scraping metal.
I often have to take a little angle, but at least I can sometimes get there.

Watch this video from about 2:30 to 4:00. You can see how with Jeff’s coaching I was able to get to an angle where I could get a tire up past the shorter bumper. With the stock bumper length I may never have made this one.




Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
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