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Ignition Switch Question

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Lee (MN) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee (MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2020 at 10:38pm
Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:

Originally posted by havasujeepn havasujeepn wrote:

Jim, did what you suggested and there IS current running between the ground cable and battery post with the everything turned off! Would that be the voltage regulator being the culprit or is it in addition to what may be wrong?


  That gives a you a starting point.  I had the same thing happen to me and it was the regulator. Changed the regulator and took care of the problem. 
 
    You could start eliminating possible causes by disconcerting one item at a time to find the problem.

   Take the bat. wire off the regulator and do the battery test again.
  
    If you still have currant draw take the horn wire off and test again. Move on through the circuit (light switch, brake light switch, etc.

    Jim

 




Excellent advise right there! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

Lee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2020 at 1:17am
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

  I don't know about any pre-war Willys vehicles, but no Willys- or Ford-built jeeps had "Pos grd".
BW

I used  that term to hopefully help ID  which cable to use.  Many people have trouble understanding  that the polarity was reversed years ago. POS cable is like a modern Jeeps Neg.    LOL this might be more confusing then what I wrote!.   I bet you knew what a meant though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2020 at 1:36am
Originally posted by Lee (MN) Lee (MN) wrote:

Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:

Originally posted by havasujeepn havasujeepn wrote:

Jim, did what you suggested and there IS current running between the ground cable and battery post with the everything turned off! Would that be the voltage regulator being the culprit or is it in addition to what may be wrong?


  That gives a you a starting point.  I had the same thing happen to me and it was the regulator. Changed the regulator and took care of the problem. 
 
    You could start eliminating possible causes by disconcerting one item at a time to find the problem.

   Take the bat. wire off the regulator and do the battery test again.
  
    If you still have currant draw take the horn wire off and test again. Move on through the circuit (light switch, brake light switch, etc.

    Jim

 




Excellent advise right there! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

Lee


with a test light  hooked up between the POS cable ans POS post and a circuit is "on"  the test light will light up OR a buzzer will buzz.   Now one can trace down the "hot" circuit.  
 We would pull one fuse at a time from the fuse pannel  and see if the test light went out. Then explore that circuit to find the problem.    Willys  did not have many fuses or circuits but one can still track down the  circuit that's draining the batt.   Just go slow and easy. 

Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2020 at 2:34am
  Actually, either cable can be used, for the purpose of this test, it doesn’t matter whether the vehicle is positive or negative ground. Either way, it is safer to disconnect the ground cable first, so I use that one. BW 
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncamoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2020 at 2:43am
You have circuit breakers? My old MB had one that was used. The only fuse was for the FM radio. I think it was an old radio Jeep as there were 4 more breakers under the dash and an interesting bit of wireing under the passenger seat.
john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote havasujeepn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2020 at 9:03pm
I've been doing a lot of testing and am finding a lot of old wiring that probably should be replaced. I've been looking in the service manual for specifications on what gauge wire is used.. Is there one size that is used throughout the system or are there different sizes? If someone could direct me to what page or a link, I would very much appreciate it. Don't really want to spend hundreds of dollars for a wiring harness that I probably won't use, unless I'm restoring my jeep. Oh, by the way, I'd like to thank all of you for the excellent suggestions on how to find the drain in the system. You guys are awesome!Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2020 at 9:15pm
There is a link on the wiring diagram page that I originally posted. It will answer all your questions.
 
I'm with you regarding the cost of a new harness. A few hours and an assortment of ends, solder and heat shrink, I made my own. I have zero electrical issues and I know exactly how it works.
 
 
Micah


Edited by Steelyard Blues - 12 May 2020 at 9:24pm
1947 CJ2A, Body & Frame: 106327, Engine: J109205, Tub and Tailgate: 97077. Originally Luzon Red

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote havasujeepn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2020 at 9:47pm
Micah, Holy moly...all my questions answered. I honestly didn't look at the whole page when you sent it last night. Thanks. I also noticed, in your signature, that your 47 is colored Luzon Red. That's what the original color of mine was and I'm thinking of getting it back to that color. Where did you purchase the paint?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2020 at 10:11pm
Mine has been repainted several times. It is currently orange and my neighbors, ignoring my protests, have named her the "Orange Blossom Special."
 
Someday, I will return her to Luzon Red, but for now it is nice to have a vehicle that I don't worry about getting dinged in the parking lot. The tailgate was not painted when I got her. I had the underside scanned and matched to a color:
 
Micah
 
 
 
 
I really wish I would have labeled my pictures.
1947 CJ2A, Body & Frame: 106327, Engine: J109205, Tub and Tailgate: 97077. Originally Luzon Red

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 4:40pm
havasujeepn, Did you ever track down the source of your current draw/battery drain?

Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote havasujeepn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 5:46pm
Hi Bill. Every time I touched a terminal on the voltage regulator, it showed a current running. So I ordered a voltage regulator. I'll start with the new VR and then go from there, if there is still a drain. I noticed the PO ran a long cable for ground and hooked it up to where the starter is attached to the engine. The cable has to be at least 2-1/2 to 3 feet long. The ground cable for sale at KW is 16". Where is your ground attached? And does it matter?
David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 5:57pm
I recently installed a new battery. Ithawk11 was kind enough to point out that the negative cable is attached to the front of the battery tray.
 
You should have a ground strap gong from the frame to the engine at the right motor mount.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A, Body & Frame: 106327, Engine: J109205, Tub and Tailgate: 97077. Originally Luzon Red

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote havasujeepn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 6:21pm
Micah, I just checked and there is a hole at the front of the battery tray where the neg cable should be attached. Whoohoo!Clap And yes, there is a ground strap going from the frame to the engine at the right motor mount. Thanks for the location. Much appreciated!!Tongue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 6:46pm
Originally posted by havasujeepn havasujeepn wrote:

Hi Bill. Every time I touched a terminal on the voltage regulator, it showed a current running. So I ordered a voltage regulator. I'll start with the new VR and then go from there, if there is still a drain. I noticed the PO ran a long cable for ground and hooked it up to where the starter is attached to the engine. The cable has to be at least 2-1/2 to 3 feet long. The ground cable for sale at KW is 16". Where is your ground attached? And does it matter?
David

I have a 6V 1945 GPW so there are probably a few more grounding straps than your CJ.  (There is one in front of the battery tray and to the motor mount as described above, though.)  Interestingly, I just measured a .3-.4 volt drop on my jeep, too.  For now I'm just disconnecting the battery at the end of each run until I figure out what is causing it.

Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote havasujeepn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 10:48am
Rec'd the new VR this week and finally installed it this morning! I checked for any drain, as suggested, and there wasn't any. I also installed a new ground cable for the battery and attached the end to the hole at the front of the tray. The engine started right up, without even having to pump the gas pedal. Mind you, it had been setting for 5 days without running. THAT was a first. I also purchased a new + cable. So in my exhuberance(?), I started to install that cable. What I didn't do, was disconnect the ground and I accidently touched the battery hold down rod and it caused a spark. Now my whole electrical system is dead. Jumped in and tried to start the engine, no response.Cry Even the lights don't come on. Is there a changeable fuse in our little 2A's or did I just blow up the VR or something? Also, I removed the braided ground wire from the engine to the frame, yesterday, and hadn't replaced it yet. Was on the to-do list. Any suggestions or scoldings would be appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 11:55am
Long shoot here but look at the light switch there either is a fuse or circuit breaker there.   
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote havasujeepn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 12:37pm
There is a circuit breaker. Is it a one use thing or can it be reset? Can't figure it out just by looking at it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 2:17pm
Originally posted by havasujeepn havasujeepn wrote:

There is a circuit breaker. Is it a one use thing or can it be reset? Can't figure it out just by looking at it.

It should reset itself.....but who knows after 70 years.  make up a jumper or get a inline fuse  and attach alligator clips to the ends and by pass the circuit breaker and see what gives. a 20 amp fuse should work for testing.

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Jim
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