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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Well the adventure continues
I took a short video but it won’t let me upload it. So you’ll have to be satisfied with my written descriptive powers. Got the leaking and cooling issues sorted out today. Running 160 to 180. No leaks. Then went on to tuning. Found it near impossible to hold the light and see the marks while turning the distributor I think I’m within a degree or two at idle. Air screw on the solex does nothing. Stumbles coming off idle. Imagine that your watching a short (22 sec) video of a 134 just idleing along at about 600 rpm. Sound pretty sweet. Except for that ticking. Now if the video would have uploaded we could have played what’s that noise. But it wouldn’t. So we can’t. If we had been able to then the one who guessed that’s the bent crankshaft pulley hitting the timing cover would have had it right. Today I also learned never to use a 30 plus year old clutch disc. Even though it is new. Turns out if you do you’ll be pulling either the motor or transmission to change it. Tried to get the new STA super traxions might have been to dark
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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I don’t seem to know much about the solex either. Every other carb I ever had when you twist the screws stuff would change. This one don’t seem to care what you do. Never seen a YF. Or at least not for a long time.
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Spent the weekend pulling the motor out to fix some issues. First one was the clutch. Turns out the guy that was helping me is not as smart as he thinks he is. The problem with the clutch was that the disc was put in backwards. I think the old one was fine. Still, I had a new setup assembled in USA from Korean and Chinese parts. So I went ahead and put it in.
Next issue was the ticking noise. Turns out what I thought was a groove cut in the timing cover was not. It’s really hard to see down there in the dark. The real problem was a small dent in the front of the pan. This was confirmed by removing the pan after the timing cover theory proved to be wrong. Once inside and looking at the scribed arch. It was obvious. The front counterweight on the crank had been whacking the front of the pan. My helper thought it might be a good thing to have a very clear and audible indication of engine speed. He had proven he doesn’t know what he’s doing with the clutch. So I didn’t listen. I went ahead and took the dent out. Cleaned everything up and put the pan back on. The cooling issues came down to a kinked lower radiator hose. It was one of the straight corrugated bend to fit type. Replaced it with a preformed from NAPA. I’m assuming this was the problem. As it was the only thing I changed that was different from what I took off. I should have know something was wrong when the engine practically just fell in last time. The clutch fork. The clutch. The noise in the pan. By the same logic this time around everything should be ok. No matter what I tried the last 3/4 inch wasn’t going together. Even backed out and rechecked the clutch plate. Looked ok the little plastic alignment tool slipped right in. I did put a new pilot in. It was a little tighter but not much. I went ahead and reset the plate and tried again. Same thing but now it’s 1/2 inch. So I took the guide bolts out and put some just slightly long bolts in. One turn of the nut on each side and it fell together. Ended the day with motor sitting in the mounts and the right side reassembled. With any luck at all I should be able to run down and watch the sunrise with Dennis next Sunday. |
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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It runs
No funny noises and I think the clutch works. Greater attention to detail. And coming to terms with it’s been a long time and I don’t remember as much as I think I do. Would have saved me quite a lot of work. On the other hand I’m getting pretty good at putting the upper left bolt in. My old dwell tach gave up on me. I’ve had it since 1980. They are hard to find now days. Found an old stock new in the box one like it on eBay. It’ll be here tomorrow. Get the old Jeep tuned up and drive it a while to find out what else needs attention. I need to figure out how to post a video tried again but it says it’s the wrong file type. |
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Awesome! Guess we will have Jeeps on the beach this weekend.
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4783 |
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Nice!
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Purrs like a kitten Edited by Mike F - 06 Nov. 2018 at 4:15am |
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Ive been tinkering with the carburetor most of the week motor idles great. Stumbles off idle and runs rough. These Solex things are strange. It’s the last piece of the old motor. Everything else from the radiator to the transmission has been rebuilt or replaced. I suspect it’s a jet problem. Accelerator pump seems to work I would tear into it if I had a sheet that was legible. I’ve ball over the web looking. There’s lots of them uploaded. Can’t read any one of them. No matter got a new one on order. It’ll be here Saturday. I’m curious if it’ll have a legible sheet in the box.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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My CJ2A had a new solex on it when I got it. It ran ok, but not as good as I knew it was capable of. I finally called scoutpilot and ordered a completely rebuilt Carter WO. I was amazed at how much better it starts and runs. This is the original carb for these jeeps. When properly restored, they really work great. I know others are satisfied with a solex, but for me, the extra money spent on the carter was well worth it. I hope the new solex works for you, but if not, give Scoutpilot a call. He can fix you up.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Thanks Steve. I think that’s good advice.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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For me personally, I think that Ol' Unreliable was a bit peppier with the Solex than with the Carter, at least when the Solex was new.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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I really am a if it ain’t broke don’t fix it kinda guy anymore. The biggest problem with the solex is that I can’t find a readable spec sheet on it. Years ago I would have just tore it apart looking for what might not be right. There is a sediment bowl but no filter in the fuel line. The tank was replaced by the PO. I took the sediment bowl off and cleaned it when I swapped it from the old motor and it had a good amount of crap in it. I’m fairly sure it’s just a blocked high end jet. Or the Solex equivalent. Really hopeing to get a readable sheet with the new one. Tried to make sure to get a crown and not Omni. Don’t know if one is better than the other or not.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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There is a tiny screen just inside the fuel inlet to the Solex. If you take everything off the inlet, you'll find it. It is very likely to be clogged.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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I read about that. Removed and cleaned it. No difference. Are they supposed to be all twisted up looking?
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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They are not supposed to be all twisted. I think when a rebuild kit is installed they get that way. When I opened up mine for the first time the original was not twisted. The replacement part doesn't fit as well as a factory installation part.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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I think between the 2 of them there are parts enough to make one.
The lighter colored one is in worse shape the rusty black one is really pretty solid. Either way I need to develop some sheet metal working skills. Both core look like they will work out. |
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Took a break from working on the heaters to put the new Solex carburetor on. Maybe took 30 minutes to change it out. Fired right up when fuel got to it. Had to set the idle up a little bit. Haven’t touched anything else. And she’s running great. took her out for about a 10 mile loop. No stutter or stumble. Tomorrow I’ll put a vacuum gage on it and set the idle air for max vacuum. Might even run better. I need to learn how to upload a video
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Nice. Let me know when you drive it to the coast.
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