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'Nother Diesel Build Thread

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bobevans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 3:39am
I was kinda hoping this would be a sweet little bolt in, but nope.  I tried it into an old cowl I had laying around (did I mention I am a hoarder?).  The cowl was a DJ3A.  I had cut off the dash an sent it to a board member who was restoring a DJ3A (Charles T?).  The missing dash gave good access to the firewall.  If I lined the back of the bracket up against the firewall, it was mounted too low.  My first thought was to cut off the flanges that mount to the firewall and weld them back on at 90 degrees. The problem with doing that is now it was too High..



Edited by bobevans - 18 Feb. 2018 at 4:08am
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 3:43am
I remembered that Mr. Meisner/Metcalf  used an XJ bracket, so I re-read his masterpiece and found it!  Which is no small feat.  He cut the bracket at 90 degrees to the firewall.  I also removed the "hood" for the clutch pedal.  I also cut the welds and re-welded the stop arm, allowing the pedal to swing down a little more.  I think I overdid this, but I can spacers to the stop arm if needed.


Edited by bobevans - 18 Feb. 2018 at 3:52am
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 3:44am
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 3:46am
Having a brake pedal hang on nothing more than the sheet metal firewall didn't seem like a good idea, so I welded the original housing with captured nut back onto the bracket.  BTW, anyone recognize the little pieces of red angle iron?  Maybe from the packing around an MD Juan body kit?



Edited by bobevans - 18 Feb. 2018 at 4:10am
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 3:49am
I think it lines up pretty well.  It is low enough for a master cylinder on the other side of the firewall (which I will add a plate to before mounting the MC), the pedal seems to have plenty of travel and as luck would have, on the project Jeep the bolt comes right through the little boss on the dash (which is unused in my '48).  If you want to run a brake booster on the MC, space is going to be really tight.  Diesels don't pull much of a vacuum, so I won't be needing a booster - I hope.


Edited by bobevans - 18 Feb. 2018 at 3:55am
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2018 at 3:03am
Rear wheel opening
Decided it was time to play with the wheel well cut outs.  Cut off just a strip with the flange first, then took my bigger cut.  The plan is to weld the flange back on.


Edited by bobevans - 27 Feb. 2018 at 3:23am
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2018 at 3:06am
Then it was tack the piece back on.  One tack at a time.   I was just starting the process in this pic. 
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2018 at 3:15am
Motorvation
Got a little package from my local LTL trucking company.  Thank you enginemon.
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2018 at 3:21am
Started making up some motor mounts.. You've got to be crazy not to use the ones from Greg at Overland Diesel, but some of us can't leave well enough alone.  I want to move the engine forward a good bit, but that's right where the front diff is on the passenger side, especially with outboarded springs.  On the driver's side, I would love to be able to run a straight shaft from the Saginaw steering box right to the bottom of the Cherokee steering column.
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2018 at 12:21am
Hey Gang,  Anybody know how high the turbo is over the top of the engine?  I want to set my motor mounts, but don't know how low I will have to set it.
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2018 at 3:26am
Thank you to Larry and Greg from Overland Diesel for getting back to me on the height of the turbo.  The turbo will stand up almost 8" from the top of the exhaust manifold.  Larry measured his turbo at 4.5" above the top of the valve cover.  Larry has the front dump exhaust.  I think will have to change out my exhaust manifold so the turbo won't stick up so high.
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'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2018 at 3:35am
Already had to modify my engine mounts.  I am putting a plate on the side of the engine using the large (12 x 1.25 mm) tapped holes running down the sides of the motor.  Moving the engine side of the mounting plate back will allow me to move the motor forward and still attach to the frame in about the same spot.  The L134 of course mounts at the very front of the engine, but most of the other engines I have worked with mount further back, almost at a balance point.
The one bugger about moving back on the pass side is an oil pick ( I think for the fuel pump)  up that comes out of an oil galley running along the side.  I thought I could just move the pick up back to a different spot, but the little head set screws stripped pretty quickly.  I thought about drilling them out, but he pick up has some odd thread, I guess a metric pipe thread.  1/8" NPT won't do it.  So for now, I,m leaving well enough alone.
 The top pic shows the frame side angle and channel just before I tack them together.  You can also see a couple of motor mounts.  The smaller one is the standard Jeep CJ5/7 mount and the larger is the fluid filled mount for a (Ford maybe?) diesel engine.  It is NAPA part # 602-1686.  It's tall, almost 4" tall.  I would like to use the big one, but I drilled the channel to accept either.




Edited by bobevans - 10 Mar. 2018 at 3:49am
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2018 at 3:41am
This positioning moves the engine about 6" from the firewall, so I'm guessing I have moved it forward about 6 1/2"  The top pic shows the grill in place in the stock location and the manual fan in place.  I am going to try a smaller radiator tucked into the grill and I will be moving the grill forward about 1 1/2" when I high line the front fenders.


'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2018 at 1:06pm
This looks great! Its cool to see others diesel swaps on here. It gives me inspiration to continue on mine! Jeep up the awesome work! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2018 at 6:38pm
Originally posted by Millennium falcon Millennium falcon wrote:

This looks great! Its cool to see others diesel swaps on here. It gives me inspiration to continue on mine! Jeep up the awesome work! 

Thank you.  I have been watching your thread also - very nice!
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2018 at 6:48pm
Honda Civic Radiator in a Willys
After quite a bit of research, I came across the dimensions of a radiator that would fit with-in the grill of a 2A - an early 90's Honda Civic.   I zipped down to the local salvage yard and they had a rad that was already out.  Wow, I've seen Saltine crackers that looked thicker and more substantially built.  The size was perfect, however.  So I ordered a 3 core "racing" radiator from eBay - $80 and free shipping.  It will attach to the grill using the stock rubber isolators into a bracket I threw together.  One of the top brackets is just sheet metal for now, but if the location works, I'll fab up something more substantial.  It really does tuck in there very nicely, freeing up about 5" of space.  The down side, if I need an intercooler I'm going to have to get creative.  On the right is the stock rad.

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'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2018 at 6:49pm
Rubber isolators are visible in the top pic.  There will be a small cross member under the grill.

Edited by bobevans - 16 Mar. 2018 at 6:51pm
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar. 2018 at 4:01am
Got a nice little package from Greg Margison of Overland Diesel.  This GM adapter really is a work of art.  Almost hate to hide it.  Did a trial fit on my TH350 and had to clean out the dowel holes on the trans, but otherwise it fit perfectly.  Getting it bolted to the back of the Kubota was another story.  I cleaned the old paint and gunk off of the back of the engine, but it just wouldn't seat down tight, it had a pretty good rock.  I graduated from the wire wheel to a flap disc in an effort to clean off the gunk get all the nooks and crannies clean.  Probably 10 minutes into my fitting adventure, I realized there was still a bolt at the top, where the adapter lays against the engine.  Removing that bolt did wonders for the fitment. 
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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