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'48 CJ2A #204853, Pietermaritzburg, South Africa

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Category: CJ-2A Discussion Area
Forum Name: Your Jeep Project
Forum Description: Show everyone progress on your jeep!
URL: https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=34194
Printed Date: 21 Jan. 2020 at 12:43am
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Topic: '48 CJ2A #204853, Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
Posted By: JeepSaffer
Subject: '48 CJ2A #204853, Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
Date Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 12:04pm
 
After being inspired by so many great looking restorations out there, I have decided to start my own project post. Not only is it a great way to get help and advice, but it serves as a good journal of the project as it progresses.
 
I'm going to have to step back a bit to start at the beginning...
 
After looking for some time for a decent project vehicle, and some near misses, I found a CJ2A in Sept 2014 that was advertised as an original 1947. The price was right, and the seller wanted to let the vehicle go for a restoration (which was my intention), not for a butcher job like so many old Jeeps end up with here in South Africa. So we did a deal and I drove up to Pretoria, not knowing much about Jeeps, what to expect or what was in store for me.
 
It was not running, and partially disassembled. However the PO assured me it was all there, and all original, and that it "used to run like a sewing machine" and I largely took his word for it, not knowing much about Jeeps and not being in a position to argue about the price. This was a large leap of faith!
 
This is the day I picked it up:
 
 
 
And at home, loaded into the garage space I have available:
 
 
Very largely, the vehicle is original, and all there. After a few days of going through the vehicle and parts that came with it, I know the following:
 
The engine, transmission, transfer case, drivetrain, and front and back axles are all there and original.
The body is original and fairly well preserved, although some things have been added/modified, like spotlights on the front, non-original lights at the back, and the windshield outerframe is not stamped, hence, it must be repro. The innerframe is home made, although he did supply a fairly beat up original innerframe that I may be able to salvage still.
Front hubs are Warn Lock-O-Matic, and although old, I don't belive they are original Jeep hubs.
The fuel pump is metal top, not glass bowl. The carb is a Weber, not the Carter, and the steering wheel is a two spoke off a 50's or 60's Jeep truck, not the original three spoke.
It has had a 12V conversion, and there is an alternator fitted, not a generator.
 
Apart from that, it does appear all there, and all original. I think it is more than what a lot of folk have to work on when they start out!
 
My first instinct was to tear into it and take it apart, but it is difficult to fix something if you don't know if it is broken or not! I have no idea of the condition of the gearbox for instance, and won't know until I drive it, unless I take it apart. Bear in mind that parts are not easily available in South Africa, and most orders come from the USA. With a 6-8 week delivery window, you don't want to tear something apart until you know you have to!
So my intention is to try to reassemble the Jeep to the point I can get it running, and then to drive it for long enough to develop a list of what needs doing, and in what order. Then the tear-down can begin!
 
It may be easier from here on if I summarise progress with the plan as it happened chronologically:
 
Oct 2014:
 
I found out that the engine turns if you crank it, so that was a good sign. However with fresh fuel I failed to get the engine started, after assembling everything as best I could. I decided to go through everything logically and slowly:
1. Fuel is being delivered to the carb, but the carb condition was unknown. I took it off and had it serviced.
2. Spark plugs and leads looked old. New ones fitted
3. Distributor, points, condenser etc all old and condition unknown - distributor serviced and restored.
4. Tested compression. I got 72, 79, 94 and 0 psi. To diagnose the 0, I removed the inlet and exhaust manifolds and found that the last valve was stuck. Read all about it here:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/cylinder-4-exhaust-valve-stuck_topic33507.html?KW" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/cylinder-4-exhaust-valve-stuck_topic33507.html?KW =
 
I also found that the flange of my inlet manifold was broken, and only being held on by the nut. My first big problem!
 
 
While chewing on my broken inlet manifold problem and freeing the stuck valve, I stripped and painted up the air filter, cross tube and valve side cover. They came out really nicely:
 
 

 
 
 
 
Happily, once I freed the stuck valve, my compression readings are now as follows:
104, 116, 101 and 94 psi.
A big improvement on all cylinders!
 
November 2014:
 
I removed the alternator and had it tested (working perfectly) and cleaned up. It is now re-installed. I also attempted to find out the real engine number of my Jeep. Read all about that story here:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/history-of-a-south-african-cj2a_topic33522.html?KW" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/history-of-a-south-african-cj2a_topic33522.html?KW =
 
I adjusted the valves while the side cover was open.
 
I stripped and have cleaned up the steering box.
 
 
This required ordering parts from Walcks (new sector shaft and bushings), so the reassembly has not yet happened. Photos when it does Wink
Read about how I made a tool to press out my old bushings here:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/sector-shaft-bushing-removal_topic33655.html?KW" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/sector-shaft-bushing-removal_topic33655.html?KW =
 
While waiting for parts, I cleaned and painted the oil gauge and ammeter, because they are both still working, and had the radiator tested for leaks (100% good) and painted.
 
December 2014:
I realised when my new 3 spoke steering wheel arrived that my old steering tube and cam/worm gear had been modified "bubba style" as you say, to fit the 2 spoke steering wheel. Read about this saga here:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steering-column-and-wheel-arrangement_topic33800.html?KW" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steering-column-and-wheel-arrangement_topic33800.html?KW =
 
January 2015:
I have had to change parts incorrectly supplied by the only guy in SA that has parts - this being a 6 hour drive away (he does not do anything via mail - only over the counter Angry). He supplied me a second hand inlet and exhaust manifold that was cracked, and various other incorrect parts. So I drove up and got a decent second hand manifold set, and also picked up a new 41.5" tube and worm gear which he assured me was correct for my Jeep, and NOS. It appears to be NOS, but not correct for my Jeep! See the discussion on it here:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/worm-gear-id_topic34118.html?KW" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/worm-gear-id_topic34118.html?KW =
 
I think I will keep it, but just shorten the shaft length by 1".
 
I have had more luck with the inlet manifolds. Here is the evolution:
 
 
 
 
The exhaust manifold is being cleaned up as I write, having a broken stud removed, and the heat riser flap removed so I can replace it with a new heat riser kit I have from Walcks. My intention is to get it all working as intended, even if our climate here doesn't really need the heat riser. It is still cool to have it all working as it originally did.
 
So the current status is that I think I am close to reassembling the manifolds, and then with the stuck valve freed, good compression on all 4 cylinders, distributor serviced, new plugs and leads, and refurbished carb, I can't see any reason why this engine shouldn't run. Then I can drive the Jeep for a while, make my notes, and then begin the tear down in ernest.
 
I feel that things are going slowly, but when I look back through this posting and see the progress that has been made, I take heart than in only 4 months I already have made good strides, and if I persevere and keep on chipping away, I will one day have a Jeep I can enjoy and be proud of.
 
Thanks for reading. More updates as and when they happen.
 
Mike 
 


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa



Replies:
Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 2:46pm
Mike,

You are doing great work!. I admire  you guys that keep at it when you have to wait so long to get parts. If it takes a week for my stuff to get here from Walcks I get grumpy.

By the way. Any type of locking hub that is installed on a CJ2A is NOT factory original. They came off the line with a drive flange. The front axle and drive shaft were turning all the time. You just used the transfer case to engage/disengage 4WD. There was an optional "summer hub" that did not engage the axles and was free wheeling all the time, but you then did not have 4WD available.  Nowadays you hardly ever see a rig without locking hubs installed but they didn't come from the factory that way. See # 7 in the illustration below from Sean's parts database to see how the drive flange looks.




-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 2:51pm
Here's a thread where someone was selling some summer hubs. They posted some great pictures.
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/warn-summer-free-wheeling-hubs-waffle-150-spf_topic32226.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/warn-summer-free-wheeling-hubs-waffle-150-spf_topic32226.html


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Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 3:03pm
Thanks for the info Stan,
 
Yes, I haven't yet got to the front hubs. I see they are quite greasy, so at the very least they need to be stripped and cleaned and new seals put in. Maybe more if I'm unlucky. Do you know if parts are still available for the Warn Lock-O-Matic hubs?


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Zuma58
Date Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 4:00pm
Warn sells no parts for their hubs Mike, I have tried, and it sucks as I can't get the bushings or the bearings that the axles ride on from anywhere that I have checked with. All you can get is their Service Kits anymore. Sorry to lay the bad news on you, but that is one good looking Jeep you have there!!

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Steve
Long May You Run!!!


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 23 Feb. 2015 at 2:23am
So I thought it time to post some of the updates that have kept me busy for the last few weekends!
I have cleaned up and painted the left front Warn locking hub. Big difference!
 
Before....
 
 
...and after....
 
 
I plan to give them a clear coat before re-installing to keep the brass looking good. Smile
 
I also managed to get the rest of the hub off - thanks for the various help and diagrammes, guys. The brake cylinder is toast, so I need to put in an order for a replacement. I thought I may as well get new linings at the same time, seeing as brake fluid looks like it has leaked onto the front shoe and lining. The kit from Walcks comes with rivets, but the rivet tool is not included in the kit. Does anyone know if these linings are easy to rivet onto the shoe? The current linings look like they have been glued onto the shoes somehow. Certainly no rivets. Anyone know anything about this method?
 
 
Lastly, I have cleaned and painted both inlet and exhaust manifolds, and installed the heat riser. I have tested it on the bench with a blow torch, and it works! Big smile This might be one of the few working heat risers on a CJ2A in South Africa - due to our climate most of the heat risers are jammed with the flap in the bypass position and left like that. I'm pleased to get mine working and hope to keep it that way. Now I can get back to reassembling my engine and trying to get this baby running!
 
 
 
The plan of action for the next month:
1) Reassemble manifolds, carb, air cross over tube, fuel line etc etc and try and start this engine!
2) Strip, clean and paint the other hubs
3) Redo wheel brakes while the hubs are off
 
If I can get the engine running, I then plan to take the body off so the restoration can start in ernest. I haven't wanted to start properly until I know if my engine runs...
 
Ohhh.... I nearly forgot the best news of all: I was struggling with a paint shop in town for them to match Normandy Blue, which is the colour I'd like to go with. All I had to go on were some paint codes (which they said were old and they couldn't cross reference on their computer), and some photos and swatches, downloaded from the web. Who knows the correctness of the vehicles in the photos, and who knows how my colour printer interprets the swatches onto a piece of paper!!! I eventually threw in the towel after just getting no-where with them. I tried another paint shop that was recommended to me. These guys went onto their computer, and searched under "Willys, 1948" and up came Normandy Blue as an available colour. All the others are there too! I nearly fell over!! I actually didn't believe them, and asked if they would paint me a sample, which they did. It looks, as far as I can tell (comparing to the same photos and swatches mentioned above) to be the real thing.... very, very dark blue, with a hint of dark purple in there somewhere. I am super impressed, and reading about the challenges everyone has with matching original colours, who would have thought that these guys would actually have a match on their computer?! So that is the good news for the month!
 
Til the next update Wink
 
Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Speedy
Date Posted: 23 Feb. 2015 at 9:10am
so whats the code?  mine is normandy blue also and I am struggling with painting it OD green or the normandy blue.

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- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, ford reverse steering, dual master cylinder
www.shnitzlhaus.com


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 2:52am
Hi Speedy,
 
The system my paint guys use is Glasurit. Apparently it is a German system, and is used in the Mercedes Benz and BMW factories.
 
I have looked at it on-line, and you can search for your own colours and mix ratios in an on-line database. I don't know much about paint, but perhaps you can fiddle with it, or get your paint shop to take a look.
 
This is what it gives for Normandy Blue.
 
 
For me it is a good sign that the Glasurit database has a matching colour for Normandy Blue that sits under Willys for 1948. And the swatch that they painted up for me looks pretty good. From what I've read elsewhere, most paint shops just draw a blank when you give them the old paint codes. They seem to have all the other colours too in their database...
 
Good luck, let me know if you have success with your paint guys.
 
Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 08 Sep. 2015 at 5:40am
Hi guys,
 
It's been a long time since I have done an update. No excuses, just been busy with my work which requires a lot of travel, and other projects such as a bathroom remodelling at home which took up some time. Fortunately that is now finished!
 
Happily the Jeep project has not stood completely still, and I have worked on it as and when I have found time.
 
I have taken out the front axle completely, stripped both hubs, and cleaned off the diff housing. All the diff internals have been stripped and cleaned. The inner pinion bearing is useable, the outer pinion bearing and both carrier gears were toast and will be replaced. Here is a pic of the races of the carrier bearings - apparently localised pitting and shear like that will have been caused by water standing in it for some time.
 
 
Lots of parts cleaning and getting ready for paint!
 
 
I have also sorted out something of a spray booth outside from an old tent frame and some plastic to contain the overspray. It works quite well!
 
 
And here is the end result of my efforts...
 
 
 
 
I am pretty pleased with the results for never having done any spray painting before! The results are not perfect, but good enough and as I get more practice I will improve along the way.
 
On the engine side of things, I have managed to install my new fuel pump, restore and fit an AC Delco glass bowl fuel filter (not Jeep original, I know, but at least period correct) and I got the engine started! This was a big moment for me!!! Smile
 
 
So I actually have all the parts to put the front axle together again. New inner seals are in, new diff bearings have arrived, diff is painted, I have new wheel brake cylinders, all new seals, knuckles are painted..... Oh, and I have restored the other Warn locking hub too.
 
 
So, some good progress has been made!
 
By the way, I made a very detailed record of how the Warn hubs, front drums and brake backing plates, steering knuckles etc come apart. This was to make sure that I can put them all back together again properly! If anyone needs these step-by-step instructions with photos, PM me and i'll gladly pass them on.
 
In the next few weeks I plan on finishing the rebuild of the front axle, while I wait for my rebuild kits for the T90 and T18 to arrive, and then I plan on getting stuck into those. Then probably towards the end of the year or even early next year it will be time for the back axle!
 
Thanks for following my thread, and for the advice I have received from members on this forum!
 
Cheers,
 
Mike
 


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 08 Sep. 2015 at 10:18am
Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:

I am pretty pleased with the results for never having done any spray painting before! The results are not perfect, but good enough and as I get better I will improve along the way.


 Smart to start the painting on something not seen as much.   From what I see they look perfect! Clap 
 

Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:

By the way, I made a very detailed record of how the Warn hubs, front drums and brake backing plates, steering knuckles etc come apart. This was to make sure that I can put them all back together again properly! If anyone needs these step-by-step instructions with photos, PM me and i'll gladly pass them on.
 
 


 I'd say you could write up some tech how to's, but it does sound like you don't have a lot of spare time LOL


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Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Flatfender Ben
Date Posted: 13 Sep. 2015 at 4:23pm
Wow looks great.
Nothing like hearing a engine run for the first time. 😃
Thanks for the pics.


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 17 Sep. 2015 at 3:20am
More progress - I got the tub off on Tuesday! This is a bit of a challenge as I have a single garage bay to work within for disassembly, restoration and reassembly! My solution was to punch through the ceiling board and attach chains around the roof trusses, then hoist the tub up with pulleys. So far it seems to have worked. The tub can still go up more, but at least I have access to the frame and transmission/transfer case now. My next job is to get these out.
 
 
I have some questions on my transmission crossmember, and some mods that appear to have been made. I'll post a question over on the tech section. Take a look and let me know if you can advise. All advice appreciated!
Here it is: http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/topic36043_post338248.html#338248" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/topic36043_post338248.html#338248
 
Thanks for looking!
 
Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 17 Sep. 2015 at 11:23am
Mike,
Looking good!  I like your solution for lifting the tub. I did it with an engine hoist and a strap. I stood the tub on it's end and worked on the floors standing up.
 
http://s715.photobucket.com/user/smfuller/media/Grampas%20Jeep/20150103_161644_zps4koxekn6.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
 
http://s715.photobucket.com/user/smfuller/media/Grampas%20Jeep/20150127_205429_zpsod0odgkn.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


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Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 18 Sep. 2015 at 8:51am
Nice idea Stan! You are lucky with the space you had available. I am really jammed with the space I have. Unhappy But I am doing the best I can with what I have..
 
So last night I got the tranny/TC out from under the vehicle. Felt like progress even though it's just a part removal!
 
 
I might have to put it back in place temporarily though to confirm the heights of the tranny and TC relative to the frame. Seems there was some well meaning work done on the crossmember by the PO that had some unintended consequences. I have a thread on the Tech Q&A about it:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/transmission-crossmember-mods_topic36043.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/transmission-crossmember-mods_topic36043.html
 
Take a look at the thread, and if anyone can help with the dimensions I need I would appreciate it!
 
Thanks,
 
Mike
 


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 28 Sep. 2015 at 11:04am
So a little update on the last 10 days:
 
I did put the tranny and TC back on the frame and confirmed that they sit at the right height, or within 1/5" anyway, based on measurements a kind forum member sent to me. I'm going with it for now, and will trust that any final adjustments can be made on the rebuild side of the teardown!
 
So the T90 has been stripped, parts rebuild kit is awaited from Novak Adapters. Here are a few photos:
 
Off the frame:
 
Old paint being stripped:
 
 
Ready for painting:
 
  
 
I have painted it now, but realise I don't have a photo to post Embarrassed
 
On other fronts, I have put my front diff back together, and am really happy with the results. The backlash is at the bottom end of the spec range and the wear pattern on the ring gear teeth looks good... I discovered that assembly lube works really well as a mesh pattern marker. The shiny parts on the face of the gear teeth is where the lube has been squeezed out from the pinion meshing with the ring gear.
 
Forward pattern:
 
 
And back pattern:
 
 
I'm onto the parking brake now. The drum and backing plate were a greasy mess, springs seem not to be original, all bent out of shape and with home made end clips.
 
 
The shoe lining was unevenly worn and down to the shoe metal in the worst places. Everything has been stripped and cleaned, ready for paint.
 
The next step is to disassemble the transfer case, strip and paint the housing, and be ready to reassemble as soon as the rebuild kits arrive. I'll also carry on with the parking brake and I want to take a look at the clutch while I'm digging around. I already know the clutch fork has been broken and welded by Bubba!
 
Thanks for checking in! 


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 18 Nov. 2015 at 10:56am
So I've made some really good progress since my last post. I'll try and keep it short and sweet!
 
- The T90 master rebuild kit from Novak Adapters has arrived (remember this takes 6 weeks where I am!) I also decided to go with a NOS mainshaft, shift rails and shift forks from Peter Debella, and good second hand main drive gear. My tranny is going to be like new when I'm finished!
- I have stripped the transfercase, cleaned it, and it is now ready for paint. Rebuild kit from Novak has also arrived. 
- Rear axle has been stripped out, cleaned to bare metal including drums, hubs, brake parts etc, and now ready for paint
- Engine is off the frame and on an engine stand.
- Springs have been stripped and cleaned, leaf by leaf, almost ready for paint.
- Thread that matches the new shift lever knob has been welded onto the end of the shift stick, so this now works
- Rims have been sandblasted and taken to the paint shop for their coat of Luzon Red!
 
Below a few photos.....
 
 
 
 
 
So lots of parts are now ready for paint, I need to wait for a good weather weekend to get this going! I'm also pleased that other things like NOS parking brake linings have arrived so I can re-line my brake shoes. Lots of things to get going with now!
 
Thanks for checking in...
 
Mike
 


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Sarge 46 CJ2A
Date Posted: 20 Nov. 2015 at 5:49am
Looking great Mike! That T90 is going to be nice!

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1946 CJ2A, #16890
Cape Town


Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 20 Nov. 2015 at 7:26am
Nice clean work! I'll bet you built models as a child and haven't ever stopped! Just got bigger models----LOL, John

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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 29 Nov. 2015 at 2:15am
So the T90 rebuild is complete!
 
 
 
I'm pleased with the outcome - this is my first T90. Heck, it's my first gearbox!!!
 
I've got one or two technical questions which I've posted over on the Tech Q&A page. Head on over if you think you can help:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/countershaft-install-problem-help_topic36443.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/countershaft-install-problem-help_topic36443.html
 
Thanks for checking in!
 
Mike
 


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Beer4MeThx
Date Posted: 30 Nov. 2015 at 9:29am
Looks really good!  Was it pretty easy to do?  What did it look like when you started?  My gearbox is full of rust.  Debating on trying to reuse it or get a used one.


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 30 Nov. 2015 at 2:49pm
Thanks Beer4Me,
 
It is not difficult. If you take time to read the various guides available, understand how it all works, and are patient in the rebuild, anyone should be able to do it.
 
You can see how my gearbox looked earlier in the build if you scroll back through my project thread. It was not in terrible condition, but reportedly jumped out of second gear, which is a fairly common problem. Since I am doing a complete rebuild from the bottom up, this was just one of the items to tick off! Transfercase next!
 
Mine did not have much rust, so I could re-use most of the gears, excepting the problematic 2nd gear. If yours does have rust, you should probably count on all new internals. Most good rebuild kits will include small parts, new front and rear bearings, and a new countershaft of decent hardness. So all you will need to add will be the gears themselves, and you will be good to go.
 
I made my own rebuild guide from various sources, mostly based on Rick Stivers well known guide, but modified where I found his instructions a little unclear, or I found a better way of doing things, or he didn't mention something that I found important. If you want this let me know.
 
Cheers -
 
Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Beer4MeThx
Date Posted: 30 Nov. 2015 at 3:25pm
That's what I'm afraid of.  A new kit is over $200, add in a couple gears and you are in for another 2.  I'm pretty sure I could get a used working one for less.  Just gonna have to do some looking.

If you go to the How To information section of the forums I added a video of a t-case rebuild.  The guy goes in to pretty good detail.  I found it helpful to watch.  Beer


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 15 Dec. 2015 at 1:52am
December 2015:
 
I've made some good progress on cleaning up the transfer case, and painting it. Now ready for the rebuild!
 
 
 
The springs have all been disassembled, stripped and cleaned leaf by leaf, and then painted. I can't tell you how good they look compared to how they started! It was a lot of work but worth it in the end.
 
 
Finally (and perhaps most exciting) the rims have come back from the paint shop. Luzon Red looks good!
 
 
 
I still have a long way to go, but the progress is evident!
 
Thanks for checking in, and Happy Christmas to all flatfender owners...
 
Mike
 


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 30 Dec. 2015 at 7:27am
So I've had a few days off over Christmas, and that means a little more time to progress the rebuild...
 
I have been able to locate, restore and put back together an original speedometer. It is an Autolite, and seemed to be in fairly good condition, apart from a peeling paint job and needing to be cleaned up. I removed the bezel, did some nominal cleaning on the inside, oiled all the gears, tested it to see that it worked freely, painted the bezel and inner ring matt black, resealed the glass to the bezel with a little RTV bead, and put it all back together. It is not perfect, but I am pleased with the outcome, especially seeing as it is my first one! The glass has one or two small scratches, but nothing serious and I figure it is part of the history of this jeep, so I left them. Here is a pic before I started.
 
 
And here the finished product...
 
 
The case got a coat of clear lacquer just for fun, and because I like the fact that there is a faint stamp on the back of the case saying where the speedo was made, in Lacrosse, Wisconsin.
 
 
The crimping of the bezel back onto the case was not easy, but it can be done with a reasonable result if you are patient and take care.
 
 
Apart from that I am about half way through my transfer case rebuild.
 
 
There weren't enough shims in the Novak Adapter kit to get the endplay adjustment right - I had to go back, clean up and reuse some of my old shims from when I took it apart. You can see that the final shim pack in the photo is quite thick, certainly more than I expected. It is the entire Novak shim pack plus the thickest shim from my old shims. Has anyone else experienced this? Endplay is now 0.003" before I do the final seal of each shim. I'm expecting to end up with between 0.003 and 0.004" at the end.
 
That's it for the moment, Happy Christmas everybody and here's to a GREAT 2016!!!!
 
Mike
 


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 30 Dec. 2015 at 7:33am
I don't see the yoke installed on the shaft. I think you have to have it on and tight to check bearing load and endplay. Great job on the speedo! John

-------------
Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 30 Dec. 2015 at 10:25am
Hi John,
 
 
Thanks for your comments and suggestions.
 
Now, important to differentiate between the "cups" and the "caps"....! LOL
 
From what I can work out from the exploded parts diagramme of the transfer case, the endplay is determined by the depth of seating in the case of each of the cone bearing cups on each end of the output shaft. The further these are apart (one on the rear bearing cap side and one on the front bearing cap side) the more the endplay on the shaft, as the cone bearings seat on the inside of each cup. Now, the depth of the bearing cup seating in the case is controlled entirely by the 3/4 round lip on the front bearing cap and the full indent in the rear bearing cap. I used Rick Stivers method of only partially installing the cups and using the bearing caps themselves to pull the respective cups in to the correct depth as the cap bolts are tightened. This means that the cups are only pulled in to the case as far as the caps will pull them, and each cup should be resting snug against each cap. When I had too few shims installed, the rear cap pulled the rear cup too far into the case until it was tight up against the bearing cone and there was no endplay at all. I then removed the cap, used a large screwdriver between the case and the output shaft gear to slide the gear, output shaft, and bearing cone towards the rear. This moved the bearing cup back out of the case. I added shims to the pack, meaning that on the next attempt the rear bearing cap pulled the bearing cup less far into the case, thus increasing the endplay on the shaft.
 
Your suggestion of installing the yoke on the shaft (I presume you mean front yoke and not rear companion flange) would not affect the cone bearings vs bearing cup relationship, as the yoke is installed and tightened onto the output clutch shaft, which is not fixed to the output shaft. This would pull the output clutch shaft up snug against the output shaft clutch bearing, but I don't see that it would affect the output shaft endplay reading.
 
Does this make sense? It really has to be read with an exploded parts diagramme for reference!!! Confused
 
I am learning and understanding as I go along, so please correct me if I am wrong. But that is my take on the whole thing!
 
Cheers.


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 30 Dec. 2015 at 10:54am
All sounds correct except the output shafts apply pressure to the bearings on the inner race as the yoke is torqued tight against it by the castlelated nuts. Try that and see. John

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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 01 Jan. 2016 at 1:29pm
So I figured out my error with the shim pack. It was a pretty rookie error and I felt a bit stupid about it afterwards Embarrassed
 
Rick Stivers rebuild guide uses the bearing caps to pull the bearing cups the correct distance into the case. The front cap instruction reads like this:
 
"Install the cap without the gasket sealer at this time"
 
What Rick means is that the cap and gasket should be installed, but without the final gasket sealant. I understood that no gasket should be used at all.
 
So the end result for me was that the front bearing cup was pulled too far into the case (by the thickness of the missing gasket), meaning that my whole output shaft arrangement was shifted to the rear of the case. I was able to set endplay adjustment, but didn't have enough shims and had to clean up and add some shims from my old pack.
 
It didn't sit well with me overnight - such a tight adjustment, but the gasket is simply ignored...? Anyway, I re-read the guide in the morning and it all made sense for me. Use the gasket in the set-up, just don't apply sealant!
 
The new result is that I re-set my endplay and was able to get 0.004", and I didn't need anymore shims than the original shim-pack that came with the rebuild kit.
 
I guess all's well that ends well. I'll know for next time!
 
Happy New Year All!
 
Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 04 Jan. 2016 at 12:38pm
Today I got the frame out of the garage for the first time since I have owned the Jeep!
 
I cut off all the PO modifications:
- two brackets welded to the front frame horns for attaching spotlights
- A bracket welded to the left inner frame horn for attaching a shock absorber to the tie rod, presumably to control steering death wobble (!!!) Clap
- Towbar modification to the rear bumper
- Additional body mount brackets in various odd places
 
I then was able to pressure clean the frame in preparation for sandblasting and painting.
 
So here it is in all it's glory!
 
 
Looks like someone has found it worth guarding! LOL


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Mike S
Date Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 12:51am
You are making progress and , hopefully, having fun.

On the speedo… there is a little notch in the speedo cutout on the dash. There is a corresponding 'V' shaped bump on the case. These need to match up. It is perfectly possible to assemble the speedo with the case UPSIDE DOWN. Ask me how I know this.Embarrassed


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'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear
Lock-Right locker
11" drum brakes
Dual master cylinder
T90C Transmission
16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels
Cooper STT Pro tires


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 21 June 2016 at 12:47pm
So it has been some time that I haven't updated my project post, and it is nothing more than not having much time available.

I have been travelling a lot internationally with my job recently. Then my whole family came to visit from Europe in February. And I also had a lapse of judgement and I entered firstly a 35 mile/56km running race in March, and then a 56 mile/90km race in mid-May. Both of these required a fair amount of training and time...

BUT, the good news is that I have squeaked a few minutes here and there to carry on with the Jeep, so at least the project didn't stand completely idle. Herewith the updates:

In Feb I stripped, sandblasted and painted up my frame. This is all good to go now!



Here it is all painted up (actually, I think this was one of the undercoats...)



Next up was the body, off to the sandblaster to get all the old paint and tons of bondo body filler off! The tub fitted perfectly on my old flatbed trailer Smile



What was revealed underneath was a ton of poor patchwork repairs by previous owners, rusted panels and general no goodness...







So I hauled the body all the way down to Cape Town to Reynier at CJ2 Engineering, while I did my 35 mile race there. This is an 1,800km journey, each way! He is the only guy I know of in South Africa who works with Jeep bodies and is able to fabricate and replace whole panels.





Apart from getting a whole bunch of information, and taking loads of pictures of how things SHOULD be on my Jeep, Reynier replaced both front quarter panels on my tub, both rear tailgate panels, both floorpans, closed various holes that should not have been there, re-welded various bad welds on the fenders and hood, straightened my bent and stretched load bin, repaired my windshield outerframe bottom bar and facing panel, made me a new tailgate, and sent me home with a new battery tray, brake pedal arm, and various other bits and hard to find pieces. I owe Reynier a ton of thanks for doing this all in 7 days while I was in his part of the world! This is how my tub looks now:





Some minor panel beating remains to get things straightened out further and close some more holes Reynier didn't have time to close, but I have a whole, rust-free tub that is probably in the best shape it's been in since it came out of the factory!

In April I finished the reassembly of the T90 top cover and got that all back together. I was so excited to shift gears I pulled the mainshaft out of the main drive gear and dropped all the pilot bearings into the bottom of the case Clap. Rookie error! But I managed to get them loaded back in without too much rework, and I won't make that mistake again!


 
(Most of my finished parts are sitting in the dining room at home, because of my lack of space in the garage!)

Next up was the transfercase: This is mostly finished now. I am rebuilding the handbrake at the moment, but the transfercase itself is all together, and all seals are in.

I have to admit I did not do much in May, because of the big 56 mile race. Check out www.comrades.com if you are interested. I stumbled over the line in 9h14. Dead

This last weekend I got my back axle back together, including brakes. This is almost ready to put back on the frame now...



Sorry, I can't figure out how to rotate the pictures in this forum....

The only other exciting news is that I had a friend going to Canada who offered to go light and bring back parts for me. This is a big deal because the shipping and import duties we pay internationally, especially for heavy items, just about doubles the cost of the item. So he brought back an NOS Carter WO carb (near impossible to find, even used, in South Africa), a Warn overdrive (which I found on Ebay, and am very excited about.... These are rare as hens teeth here) and a brake rivet press to allow me to fit the new brake linings I have to the old brake shoes. 

So, as you can see, I have been chipping away at the project. Still lots to do, but I feel I have made some progress and once you start REASSEMBLING, rather than DISASSEMBLING, you really feel like you have turned a corner.

Thanks for reading, and I hope to post another update sooner than 6 months time!!! Smile

Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Flatfender Ben
Date Posted: 22 June 2016 at 11:02pm
Wow that tub looks great.
Awesome you where able to get an O-D makes a jeep so much better to drive.

Also your brake shoes are on wrong. On a Willys they go the other way. Long shoe to the front.


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 27 June 2016 at 3:37am
Thanks for the comments Ben! I appreciate the encouragement and advice.

Funnily enough, the brake shoes are actually the same size - the one shoe appearing longer than the other is an optical illusion created by the angle of the camera. I know this is not correct for the Willys, but it is how I got the Jeep. I'm not sure that I would be able to find just two short shoes to correct it.

I'm planning on running it with equal sized shoes front and back. Is there any immediate danger with doing this?


-------------
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Flatfender Ben
Date Posted: 27 June 2016 at 10:16pm
Oh sure enough same size.
My bad
As long as they don't hang up,I would run them.


Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 28 June 2016 at 7:17am
I see you have bonded linings and not riveted. They should work fine. The big problem with a Willys  CJ is if previous owners have turned the drums. They then have shoe contact that does not adjust properly and less brakes. I try not to turn drums. You are better off getting new. Some can shim the linings out when riveting, but it's alot of work.  Gov't rules on import/export in your country sounds painful. What's easy here in the US isn't with you. Do they go crazy if you buy a Jeep here in the US and try and ship it there? John

-------------
Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 05 July 2016 at 9:45am
Hey John, nice to hear from you again. It's been a while!

Yes, the wheel brake shoes are bonded, they obviously have been replaced by a PO before I bought this jeep. Funnily enough I just got my emergency brake shoes sorted out yesterday. The old ones were still riveted, but completely worn out, past the head of the rivet in some places. I got NOS linings from Peter deBella and got them riveted on yesterday.






The guy at the brake shop that riveted them for me said that he also does drum turning. Then he puts on oversized linings and radius grinds them to match the new radius of the drum. So that's another way of doing it that would avoid the need for shims. Smile Nice guy... and he didn't charge me anything for the riveting either...

Yes, the rules here are painful. Anything can be imported, but the duty is heavy. Its about 50% on parts. On a complete car I think it is 100%, so double the purchase price, even before you have paid shipping...
Left hand drive vehicles used to be allowed (we drive on the right of the vehicle), but then I think they changed the regulations so that these actually can't be imported anymore. Those that were in the country already were allowed to stay, but no new imports of LHD vehicles allowed! So old Jeeps are only going to get more and more rare in SA....



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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 09 Dec. 2016 at 9:20am
Wow, it been a long time without updating my project page!
 
Work has been crazy, lots of travel, and I have other hobbies too. I took part in a 100km non-stop self-supported self-navigate mountain running race in late November, which took 27.5 hours to complete... needless to say that took some training to prepare, and the training takes lots of time. But I made it and feel a huge sense of achievement for that.
 
Luckily my project has not stood still in the meantime. Any time I have had a few hours, I'm into the garage like a shot!
 
I have put my springs together with my home made spring clips, and this means I could get my axles back onto the frame and get to a rolling chassis again. This really felt like a milestone to me.
 
 
 
I have got my bell crank rebuilt and on the frame, then I decided it was time to paint and clean up my engine!
 
This is how it was in October:
 
 
And this is how it looks now. I still have to put the head gasket on and some of the extras like the water pump etc, but I think it is looking good!
 
 
I am waiting on a new fibre timing gear from Dave (Damaryxz) and a host of other parts that he put together and shipped over for me before this engine can go back onto the frame. Dave has really helped me a lot and I owe him a world of gratitude.
 
The brake MC and pedals are rebuilt and on the frame, new brake lines bent and installed, and I am busy now with the Ross steering box. I really hope that all my parts arrive before Christmas so that I can use some of my holiday time to make a serious dent in this rebuild! I really would like to get this frame driving by the end of 2016!
 
I'll try and update posts more regularly throughout the holidays.
 
Cheers,
 
Mike
 
 


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 09 Dec. 2016 at 9:29am
If you didn't put new copper washers on the output banjo bolt of the master cylinder, do it now. I've tried to get by on several of my Jeeps with the old copper washers and suffered having to go back. Especially if you use Dot 3 which eats paint. Wink Looking good! John

-------------
Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!


Posted By: a4cj2a77
Date Posted: 14 Dec. 2016 at 1:08am
Looks like you have the dirty part out of the way and smooth sailing ahead. Making great progress and before you know it, you will be the envy of the South Africa with your Willys.
Phil


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 14 Dec. 2016 at 2:40am
Thanks Phil,

Kind words. Yes, a lot of the dirty work is done and many components are complete and ready for bolting together. Tranny and transfer case included.

I am learning that this is a frustrating time because a few parts you are waiting for can hold up the reassembly of a whole system. Two examples:
- I am waiting on freeze plugs for the engine which are in the shipment that Dave has sent me. Until these arrive I can't put many of the engine components back on the engine. Same goes for a replacement fibre timing gear in the same shipment.
- I am waiting on a NOS clutch throwout bearing also in the same shipment. Until I get this I can't couple the tranny and tc to the engine.

On the upside I did get an unrelated parts shipment yesterday, which contains my new clutch disk, so I can at least assemble my flywheel, clutch disk and clutch pressure plate. Just to put things in perspective, I ordered this on 5th October and it arrived yesterday! There are various parts of the project that will keep me going through December, but MAN, I have had to learn patience with this project.... LOL

More photos and updates to follow through December...

Mike



-------------
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Adrian
Date Posted: 14 Dec. 2016 at 3:41am
Mike

I can relate to your postage issues, I think for my 8yr restoration I spent 7 years standing next to the letter box .

All good things take time, Jeep looking great.

Adrian

-------------
1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 17 Jan. 2017 at 2:50am
Well, the update that I can report is that my consolidated parts package came in on the 24th December! My girlfriend knew I had been waiting for this for months and tied a bow around it and put it under the Christmas tree. It was honestly the best present ever.... so exciting!

The sad news is that I only got about 4 days off over Christmas due to work commitments, so had limited time to work on the project. But, I did manage to get some things done:

Freeze plugs are back in the engine, new fiber timing gear is on, head is on, all gaskets in and sealed up, and the peripherals are mostly back on. The oil pump is correctly indexed to the camshaft which it wasn't before, and the distributor is correctly pointing to 5 o'clock at cylinder #1 when it should be.

I discovered that the brass bushing in the head to accept the temp gauge probe was not right, when I did a test fit with the temp probe! Thanks to many members on this forum for their offers of help, including sending drawings to get one made here in South Africa. Adrian even offered to send one from New Zealand! I am constantly blown away by the helpfulness of members on this forum, and this from people I have never met. In the end I was able to order one from Walcks and have it sent to doctor friends who are American and were back in the US for Christmas, returning to South Africa in the New Year. It is now back here with them, I just need to pick it up.



I have been fiddling and learning about my NOS Carter WO 636SA. News from Scoutpilot is that the lack of patent numbers on the bowl means that it was made by Carter for Willys of France immediately after WW2.



My transmission and transfer case are back together, after a small issue with the rear bearing spacer length, which was causing the input and main shafts to bind up. I had a thread going on the issues, which I eventually solved by shortening the spacer by 1mm. Read about it here:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/transmission-mainshaft-endplay_topic39215.html?KW=

Here they both are, all buttoned up and ready to go back in.





I had a frustrating time with the front brake S-bends. I had bent the rest of the lines myself as shipping them from the US is prohibitive, but these looked complicated and seeing as they are small I had shipped a set over from the States early on in the project. It was an item that I had ticked off as "got the parts, simply have to install them." Shouldn't have taken more than 10 mins, right? Well, how about the part that you have ordered and had sitting in the parts cupboard for 2 years doesn't fit! Angry No matter how I twisted and pushed and pulled the s-bends, the bends were just too big and one bend was hitting on the brake backing plate while the other bend was hitting on the kingpin bearing caps. They were simply too big! Another case of new parts simply not fitting!



So in the end I had to make my own anyway, with tighter bends. Mine on the left, bought parts on the right...



This was a PITA! After bending them I discovered that there was not enough space to get the nut on and double flare the ends! So I had to cut the right length of straight pipe, put 2 nuts on, double flare both ends, and then bend the tube with the nuts on! But I eventually got it right and was pleased with the results. It took me 8 hours the make the first one and 10 mins to make the second... These are the unexpected things that can add hours and even days to your project!



Just the right amount of clearance, and everything fits as it should on both sides... Big smile

So the current status is that the brakes are in and plumbed, although not yet filled with fluid and bled.
The engine is ready to go back in, as are the transmission and transfercase. The clutch is all here (new driven disk, NOS pressure plate and NOS throwout bearing). Let's just hope there are no more unexpected fitment issues! I hope to get the engine, flywheel, clutch and T90&D18 in this coming weekend, provided I can borrow an engine crane to do the heavy lifting.

Wish me luck!

Mike



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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Gil
Date Posted: 17 Jan. 2017 at 7:27am
Nice job on the S-bends brake line. Good luck with the rest of your project.

Giles


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 17 Jan. 2017 at 7:28am
Oh and I forgot... I also finished up the Ross steering box. I ended up using more than a full pack of shims from Walcks on the top. Luckily I had a second pack on hand! Has anyone else used more than a full pack? Kinda strange that they should sell a pack than is less than what you need to set the bearing preload...? Confused






-------------
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 17 Jan. 2017 at 12:06pm
Nice work Mike!

Regarding the S-bends. I have found them to be a pain to fit even when I am putting the same one back on after taking the front end apart. I usually will not tighten down the backing plate (or the wheel cylinder if it is off of the backing plate) until after I have the S-bend started into the the threads on both ends.


-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 24 Jan. 2017 at 5:15am
Thanks Stan, yes, I tried loosening the brake cylinders a few turns, but it didn't help much. Maybe I could have done it if I took the whole backing plate off? Seems that making my own was the easier way to go.

Mike


-------------
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 24 Jan. 2017 at 5:33am
So this past weekend I managed to borrow an engine crane, and I got some work done!

It is always a big step when an engine goes back into a jeep after a frame off restoration!

This is how I started the weekend:



Then came this:



...then this...



...and finally this





It's great to get things back on the frame, and start making some space in the garage again (although it may not look like it!)

I'm really looking forward to getting the rest of the parts on.... kinda got the feeling that i'm making good progress now!




-------------
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Adrian
Date Posted: 24 Jan. 2017 at 12:44pm
Its looking very sharp Mike, well done.

-------------
1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96


Posted By: athawk11
Date Posted: 24 Jan. 2017 at 7:57pm
Beautiful work Mike.

Tim

-------------
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A


Posted By: a4cj2a77
Date Posted: 25 Jan. 2017 at 3:40pm

Always nice work, You must be seeing the light at the end of that very long tunnel

Phil


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 25 Jan. 2017 at 3:45pm
Thanks Adrian, Tim and Phil. The encouragement means a great deal...

-------------
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 21 Feb. 2017 at 2:30am
So....

Another day in the garage this past Sunday, and some more progress.

I got my repaired transmission cross member brackets drilled out to match the holes in the frame, so the transmission is now held on the frame once again, and not supported on a jack Big smile

I also mocked up the steering gear, front fender and grill to check some clearance issues, but happily all looks fine! I do need some final adjustments on the exhaust though.





I have also been working on some of the small dash gauges and lights, restoring originals. Sometimes the smaller items are even more rewarding than the big ones to repair and restore! No pictures, sorry...

The mock up with the grill and fender was exciting, because it allowed me to see the light at the end of a LONG tunnel. I can't wait to be driving this car one day. Cool



-------------
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 10 Apr. 2017 at 3:48am
It's been a busy time over the last few weeks.

This is what I have been working on:
  • Exhaust system - There were more holes than I realised, including in the muffler, so I have basically had a new exhaust made. This was quite a challenge because my Jeep is in my garage and immobile, so they exhaust shop had to make up the exhaust using the old one as a model. It sounds easier than it is! They basically had to make up a jig to get all the angles right. Happily, with some minor adjustment, they seem to have it right. I now have a new exhaust!


Included in this saga was me having to drill out the stud threads that had stripped in the manifold where the header flange attaches. I was gong to install an insert, but was worried about how much meat would be left after I drilled out enough for the insert. In the end I simply drilled out the 3/8" threads and tapped 7/16" UNF instead. It seems to work fine! Not original I know, but only the jeep police would know... Wink 
The muffler hangars have since been sorted out but I don't have a photo of this. It's all painted with ultra high heat paint to try and stop the rusting in the future...

  • I did solve my temp gauge bushing in the cylinder head" saga. I won't write up about it here, there is a thread on it on the forum. 
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/walcks-temp-gauge-probe_topic39262.html

And here is the end result:


  • Shocks are all painted and installed.
  • Thermostat installed
  • Front and rear TC yokes installed with propshafts, so that meant I could seal up the gaskets and fill the Tranny and TC with oil


Diffs also filled with gear oil. Note the original ground strap also installed....
  • Radiator fins straightened and radiator, fan and fan belt installed.

  • I primed the oil pump using a 50ml horse syringe into the oil pressure pickup, and got my first leak Unhappy  But once I had figured out what was wrong, it was a relatively easy fix. Read about it here: http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/copper-washers-on-oil-pump-cover_topic39905.html

This past weekend I was actually in a position to complete some temporary wiring and crank the engine. Just the final torque of the head stud nuts.... and then that sinking feeling on the final torque sequence as one nut went soft Dead
Sadly it is the stud that is stripped and not the nut. Faced with a re-gasket and replacement of the offending nut I went ahead and fired her up anyway - AND SHE RAN... for the first time in 2 years! Super exciting!!!

So, that means I have got the following right and working well: no leaks, (oil, fuel or anywhere else), timing good, dizzy good, spark good, NOS carb is good and working, fuel pump and fuel lines working, radiator in, start motor working, good cranking (so good engine ground).

The only bad is the head which has to come off, and the front right corner stud which has to be replaced. That means I also need another gasket! I am going to try and get one of the copper ones if I can.

Well, that's my summary... and I see that a big parts shipment is sitting in Joburg for me already, courtesy of damar2yxr (Dave). I am super excited to get that with most of the parts I need to complete my rebuild...

Til next time, thanks for checking in...

Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Sarge 46 CJ2A
Date Posted: 10 Apr. 2017 at 8:28am
Wonderful progress Mike! And congratulations on your successful engine run! It must feel so good :)

-------------
1946 CJ2A, #16890
Cape Town


Posted By: SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Date Posted: 10 Apr. 2017 at 1:37pm
Such a careful restoration, I'm impressed...keep up the good work.

-------------
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red"





Posted By: Adrian
Date Posted: 10 Apr. 2017 at 3:08pm
Its looking very smart, keep it up

-------------
1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 02 May 2017 at 10:42am
Quick update....

I got the head off, which of course ruined the gasket that was on there. I spent 2 days cleaning all the old gasket material off both the head and the block! But at least it's done.

I snapped off (in the block) the stud that had stripped, which was a set back. However, I carefully centre drilled it with a 9.3mm drill bit, and was able to clean the thread from the remaining shreds of the stud, using the correct tap. I am getting good at this technique! So I now have a brand new stud sealed and inserted into the block. Very happy about that! 

Tonight I pick up the copper gasket I have located, and I should be set to get the head back on this engine!


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 08 May 2017 at 3:07am
Big news!

After drilling out the stripped stud and getting the new one in, I sourced and cleaned up a new copper gasket for the head. I had to carefully file open some of the stud holes just a bit to get it to fit. Is this normal or is this a poorly cut gasket? 

In any case it cleaned up very nicely and I was able to drop it over the studs with a light coat of copper gasket sealer on each side.

Cleaned up:



And here it is on the block:



The head went on fine, and all torqued up to spec! Here I am ready to crank the engine:



... and guess what? It started first crank!!! Big smile

So happy! There was a pretty bad leak from the base of the thermostat housing, so I switched it off. Turns out I only ever tightened the bolts finger tight! Embarrassed Once that was tightened up I was able to re-start: no leaks, engine got up to temperature, oil pressure is steady at around 40psi, and it idles nicely. I now need to source a timing light and ideally a vacuum gauge and do some fine tuning of the timing!

But she starts, runs and idles nicely without any oil or water leaks, and that feels like a major step forward!





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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Adrian
Date Posted: 08 May 2017 at 3:32am
That man deserves a Beer, well done

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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96


Posted By: Sarge 46 CJ2A
Date Posted: 08 May 2017 at 5:09am
Congratulations Mike :)

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1946 CJ2A, #16890
Cape Town


Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 08 May 2017 at 7:02am
Throw the tub on and head for the Black Hills ! LOL, way to go and stay on target! The first thing that hit my mind was you need to re-torque the head . You wouldn't think it would need this, but it does. Is that gasket solid or ply'ed copper ? Looks solid. All the ply'd ones I've used have holes that do not need filing. John

-------------
Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 08 May 2017 at 8:24am
Haha, now wouldn't that be nice to see you in the Black Hills John? Can you imagine shipping costs on a whole jeep? Dead

Yes, I will re-torque the head. And it is a solid copper gasket - I didn't realise you have ply'ed ones available in the States. This one must be at least 2mm thick. I was thinking about taking careful measurements and getting some laser/plasma cut here in South Africa, either as spares or to help out fellow Jeep nuts. That one cost me $82! I might post a question on the Tech Q&A page on whether it is special copper, or just "copper".

So my next step is to do just that - throw the tub on and get all clearance issues and wiring completed, then take it off for the last time and do the paint and bodywork. I hope to be driving the pre-paint version in "test mode" within the next month... Thumbs Up


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 25 May 2017 at 3:23am
So thanks to damar2yxr, another big parts shipment came in last week which contains all the little bits and pieces I know I need to complete this project! Plus some not so little parts, like an original steering wheel! It really felt like Christmas had come early... Here is the parts pack, expertly packed: 



Included were some NOS Trico wiper motor rebuild kits, so I now have another mini project waiting for me - to rebuild the vacuum wiper motor I have!

I spent a happy weekend installing bits and pieces, and by the end of Sunday my brakes were bled (new copper washers John!), steering gear installed, and steering wheel lightly tapped into place, although not yet fully seated.



Last night I took apart the temporary fuel line plumbing I had in place and installed the Carter ceramic element fuel filter. I like the glass bowl and the fact that the ceramic element is re-usable indefinitely - it just needs a good cleaning and flushing out at service time.



I originally had an "L" shaped line installed with a 90 deg bend, but I did a test fit with the fender and found it was just touching at the bend. So I ended up rotating the elbows on the pump and filter and just installing a straight line between the two. Clearance issue solved! Today I will make up the PCV valve line.

I also installed my clutch control tube and am happy to report that I have verified that all looks good through the inspection window - In gear the pressure plate holds the clutch disk against the flywheel as it should, and I can't roll the frame. I then pressed the clutch pedal by hand and for the first time the throwout bearing pressed against the release fingers, the pressure plate lifted off the disk, and even in gear I could roll the chassis. I could observe the friction disk turning inside the bellhousing as I rolled the chassis.

So all looks good so far!

I have sourced a vacuum gauge so I plan to set the engine timing, idle and mixture this weekend, and hopefully get this engine purring. Then it's a short hop to get the tub on, redo some of the temporary wiring, and head out for a shake down drive! Can't wait... Smile



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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: shadow
Date Posted: 26 May 2017 at 12:00am
where did you find the copper head gasket, I have heard they are the way to go for the go devil engines.
great ( I don't want to say work because its not work when you are doing something you love to do )

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lets go for a rip eh bud

Andy


Posted By: Unkamonkey
Date Posted: 26 May 2017 at 1:12am
I can imagine the ear to ear grin when the parts showed up. When I was 16 I worked at a Jeep repair place surrounded by around 3,000 square feet of oem parts and used parts. Looking back, I was in Jeep heaven and didn't know it.

-------------
uncamonkey


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 26 May 2017 at 3:24am
Andy, I got the copper head gasket from the only place that sometimes has Jeep parts here in South Africa, which is is Pretoria, about 600km from where I live. I don't know where it was made originally. I can confirm that it is solid copper, not a copper ply material.

If I had picked it up myself, I would have asked all the questions regarding origin etc. But the guy that owns the parts store is famously difficult to deal with. He only deals over the counter (won't ship), so that would have meant a 1,200km round trip for me, just for a gasket! So I had a friend in Pretoria go and pick it up for me. Hence I didn't get to ask all my questions. I also got done in on the price. He told me $65 on the phone when I called to see if he had any, and then sold it to my friend for $90, take it or leave it. It would be nice to tell him to Censored off, but then I sit without a gasket. In the end you just pay. He has a monopoly, so there literally is nowhere else to go, unless you import from the USA. That's exactly why so many of my parts HAVE come from the USA. With only a handful of CJ2A's in the country, there is just no chance to set up a thriving alternative local parts supplier, although that's what we desperately need...

Anyway to cut a long story short, I know the major USA parts suppliers have them, although maybe not solid copper. Walcks for example         http://walcks4wd.com/copper-head-gasket-l-head-4-cy.html

I will be in Vancouver, Banff, Jasper and Yukon in June and July for an extended vacation. I might have withdrawal symptoms from not working on the Willys. Do you need any help on your rebuild? LOL


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 26 May 2017 at 10:31am
Hey Mike,
If you're coning as far as Canada, from Banff  it's only around 1100 miles or so  to Ft. Collins, Colorado where the Northern Colorado Mountain Run will be taking place July 19-23. I'm sure we could find you a seat.  Smile


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Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: Max
Date Posted: 26 May 2017 at 11:27am
Congratulations, very nice project. I understand your challenges looking for CJ parts; I have similar issues finding them in Argentina. 



-------------
Max
CJ2A 110861


Posted By: shadow
Date Posted: 30 May 2017 at 10:43pm
Work or pleasure? that is a great trip to take , look up Columbia ice fields around Jasper.

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lets go for a rip eh bud

Andy


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 1:27am
Hi Shadow, happily it will be for pleasure.

We had straight for Whitehorse and paddle down the Yukon River for 6 days, taking out at Little Salmon River. Then back to Vancouver and we head out for Banff/Jasper area. We will be doing the Ice field Highway, and all that there is to see in the area, camping as we go. Included is a 3 day back country horse trail. We leave in 2 weeks now.... Can't wait!

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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 09 June 2017 at 5:19am
Over the past weekend I got the tub on with the help of some buddies! This feels like a major achievement... The tub has not been on the frame for 18 months now, and has stood on it's tail in the garage for the last year since being repaired in April 2016 when new floor pans were installed and various body panels were replaced.



I was able to sit in the drivers seat for the first time in a long time! It felt good Smile

Unfortunately I will be away for the next month, so there will be little progress. But i'm hoping that when I get back in July and into August I will get this project driving and I can go for a shake down drive, before embarking on the final stage of the project - PAINT!




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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 3:53am
Well, Saturday this past weekend was a huge day...

I first picked this jeep up on 20th September 2014, which means that by Saturday I had had it for 2 years and 340 days. It came to me partially disassembled, and was not running. I was assured that all the parts were there, but to be honest I had no idea what I was looking at, so I wouldn't have known any better anyway. I do remember the owner telling me that it jumped out of 2nd gear. Every possible seal leaked, and the body was covered with body filler that was 6mm thick in places, had cracked and was flaking off in large sheets. I drove 600km to fetch it and the same to bring it home.

Since then I have spent every spare moment researching, assessing, fixing, restoring, importing parts and replacing, to get it into the reliable shape that I want for it to be a daily driver. It was a big moment when I ran the engine for the first time, but there was just so much more to be done and every part I took off needed to be straightened, fixed, replaced, cleaned or painted. It was so far away from being a daily driver. Throughout it all, this forum has been my constant source of research, information, encouragement, inspiration and help.

I have made steady progress all the time, and 2 weeks ago I made a list of what I thought needed to be done to get the Jeep driving. The list was 19 points long. I got 7 done that weekend. This Saturday I got the remaining 12 points done. By 4pm I found myself sitting in the drivers seat, nervously anticipating cranking the engine and easing the jeep out of the garage and into the driveway under it's own power for the first time in nearly 3 years.

The engine cranked, it started and after a few moments to warm up, it settled down to a steady idle.
I pushed the clutch in. First gear engaged seamlessly, and I eased the clutch out. Fully out? Nothing was happening! Oh, the transfercase was in neutral! What relief at the obvious solution.... 

The second time, the jeep edged forward slowly, down the garage approach ramp and into the brilliant sunshine, all under it's own power!!! I turned the wheel to miss Benji the dog and the front wheels responded. I hit the brakes and she stopped. The feeling of accomplishment, pride, happiness and sheer relief was overwhelming. I engaged reverse and returned the jeep back up the driveway. Reverse worked too!

I spent a happy hour, beaming from ear to ear, as I tinkered and adjusted and fiddled with this and that. No-one could have been happier than me at that moment.

After testing the brakes again, I took the jeep out of the driveway and around the block, a trip of probably 800m. The steering works, the brakes work, all gears shift and work. Given that the hood does not yet have the hold downs installed, the radiator brush guard is not properly fitted, and the T90 cover plate was sitting loose in the passenger footwell, I don't think I need to be too worried about rattles and noises yet... Wink

So, its taken me 2 years and 340 days, but the Jeep is driving!




I got engaged a month ago, and my fiancee has insisted we use the jeep as the wedding vehicle... So now the pressure is on to finish this project, including paint, in the next 6 months! Looks like December holidays is going to be a busy time...

Bring it on!

Thumbs Up


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Adrian
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 4:15am
Well done Mike , congratulations on the engagement as well.

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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96


Posted By: eestes1
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 5:41am
All is good-literally! Thanks for sharing your story with us along the way.


-------------
Rick Estes


Posted By: Gil
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 8:01am
Really nice looking jeep, nice colour combination ,job well done.ClapClapClap


Posted By: Willy M
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 8:04am
Great looking Jeep!  


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 8:21am
Thank you all.

Originally posted by Gil Gil wrote:

nice colour combination ,job well done.ClapClapClap

Thanks Gil, the only thing that is final colour are the wheels (Luzon Red). The body and windshield are still in anti-rust etching primer for now: red for the body, and black for the windshield when the red ran out! They still need their final colour of Normany Blue.


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 10:50am
Congratulations on BOTH projects! Two thumbs up!

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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red"





Posted By: Gil
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 11:51am
Mike your jeep is really going to look good with paint.Geek


Posted By: wadoyado
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 7:16pm
Jeepsaffer, thanks again for the great pic's. Are you saying if I install the gas filter as shown in my pic I could have clearance problems? Would be good to know before I make metal line. Thanks Joe

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"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 29 Aug. 2017 at 2:15am
Hi Joe, 

Your gas filter as shown will work. The metal line routing to the fuel pump is where you need to be careful.

You will come out from your filter elbow horizontally, and then at some stage you need to put in a bend and go down to the fuel pump. This is where you might hit the fender. You need to go down but also in towards the engine if you are to avoid the fender. How soon you bend in is the trick. My advice is to mock up the front fender and then you can be sure that your line will work first time. Smile

Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: shadow
Date Posted: 31 Aug. 2017 at 12:20am
Congrats on the engagement and your other half wanting the jeep in the wedding

-------------
lets go for a rip eh bud

Andy


Posted By: a4cj2a77
Date Posted: 12 Sep. 2017 at 3:47pm
You are doing a great job, very happy for you and your future wife. Nice that she wants the jeep in the wedding and as a side note if you moved to this part of the world, parts would be easier to obtain. Big smile Can't wait to see pictures of you and your wife driving your jeep down the road!!!
Phil


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 13 Sep. 2017 at 3:59am
Thanks Phil, kind words.

Well, now that the jeep is running and driveable, I am finding a reason to drive it every weekend. I might get you your picture sooner rather than later! I live in a small neighbourhood with quiet roads, so it's ok to head out for a trip around the block! The headlights are wired up now so I wanted to test them for brightness at night. I went out last night for a trip around the block and they were surprisingly bright!

Other general progress so far:
- Choke and throttle cables installed
- Drivers side seat frame returned to stock on the rear support leg from some previous hold down arrangement that didn't work very well.
- Passenger side diamond tread step pulled apart, brackets with old crappy welds were cut off, I straightened the step and brackets, welded it all up and filled all the holes, and re-attached the step to the floor. It looks 100 x better and now my fiancee can get in easier!
- Headlights all wired up with dim and brights working.
- Gas tank stripped of about 100 layers of paint and bed liner. It looks original, and has a few patch pieces welded underneath. It has been lined internally and seems to be leak free. It's now almost ready for primer and new paint. The filler neck is copper coated! Are they all like this or is it a replacement filler neck that someone put in at some stage?
- Air cross over tube stripped of old paint, prepped and first coat of gloss black is on. Awaiting second coat.
- Speedo cable installed and speedo now working.

I would like to move on to the tail lights and get these fitted and wired up soon, perhaps even this weekend. Also to get the gas tank sender mocked up and tested with the gauge.

Everything always takes twice as long as you think it will, but progress is steady. It won't be long now until I strip the body off one final time to do the final prep and paint.

This engine always starts first crank! Choke on, a press of the gas pedal to squirt some gas into the carb, and it starts first crank, even when cold and after sitting for a week. Love it!


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Paraex79
Date Posted: 23 Sep. 2017 at 5:09am
Hey Mike, congrats on the engagement and well done on your Jeep build, a great job. You will have to help me with mine.

-------------
Allan Montile


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 19 Mar. 2018 at 5:41am
Well, it was 13 Sept 2017 when I made my last post. Embarrassed I haven't exactly been sitting on my backside, but life got REALLY busy for a while.

Sadly I couldn't find the time to finish the jeep in time for the wedding. We did house renovations (new kitchen, floors, ceiling etc etc etc), work got busy, and the actual wedding planning and arrival of friends and family from around the world took preference. And I ran a few marathons too...

Fortunately the jeep didn't stand completely in this time. This is what I have completed as and when I have stolen a few hours:
  1. I have found a second L134 engine block and I plan to build a new engine from scratch on the stand, then swap it in at some point in the future. I have ordered all the parts I need and these parts have arrived. I dropped the block off at the machine shop for measurement and to have some broken studs removed. This is good progress on that front.
  2. Jeep wiring is now complete! I did it all myself from scratch, which was quite fun but also very good experience. I wired in indicators to the stock lights using relays, and wrote up a How To which I posted on the site here:  http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/turn-signals-using-relays-to-keep-a-stock-look_topic41948.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/turn-signals-using-relays-to-keep-a-stock-look_topic41948.html     Hopefully this can help others out there that might want to do the same thing.
  3. My windshield inner frame which was very badly rusted has been professionally repaired. Probably not cost effective but it does save me having to import one which was my only other option, and shipping on that would have cost a bomb.
  4. My windshield is basically back to stock, and all the previous owners mods and welding on the adjustment arms have been undone. I made new bushes so that the correct screws and washers fit again. All extra holes in the outer frame have been identified and welded closed. I have bent the attaching arms correctly so that the windshield sits centred on the cowl and all works as it should. I have installed repro hold down clamps, which were previously missing. All my windshield needs now is paint and glass!
  5. Gas tank has been stripped, cleaned and painted. The inside has been previous sealed. The original OD green paint was revealed, consistent with the history of this jeep as a military jeep imported by the Army. The hold down straps were in terrible shape, so I made some new ones. The hold down bracket on the drivers side wall was too high, so I cut this off and repositioned it where it should be. The tank has been plumbed in, including a NOS carter ceramic in-line fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump. The fuel gauge has been installed.
  6. The original side step on the passengers side has been straightened out, broken bolts removed, and reinstalled in its correct location. The drivers side still needs to be done.
  7. Seat frames have had Bubba's work cut off, and the drivers side is once again fixed at the rear on the peg leg. It has previously had a conversion to make it tilt like the passengers seat. It is not quite back to stock (missing the seat pan), but pretty close.
  8. An original 6V horn has been wired in on the fender. This has required an inline resistor to be installed for it to work on the 12V system.
The last time I drove this jeep I had a temp gas tank hanging off the front bumper. Wednesday here is a public holiday and I plan to fill the tank with fuel and drive it as it was intended to be driven! All gauges working, fuel tank in, all wiring working!

I am getting kinda close now to where I need to be to work out any final mechanical issues. I plan to drive this jeep for a week or two and install any final bits and pieces (spare wheel bracket is one!) and debug any issues that crop up, and then take it all apart for paint. The final re-assembly should hopefully be as painless as possible!

I haven't posted any pics because to be honest the jeep doesn't look too much different from the last time I posted a picture. But if I head out for a drive on Wednesday I will be sure to post a pic of the outing...

'til then...

Mike



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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Adrian
Date Posted: 19 Mar. 2018 at 1:24pm
Your making great progress Mike

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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 19 Mar. 2018 at 9:16pm
You need the pics to save for posterity.  And us.  Thumbs Up


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 20 Mar. 2018 at 3:53am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

You need the pics to save for posterity.  And us.  Thumbs Up

Oh I've got lots of pics... just not very exciting ones...

This is the current state of play of the engine with drivers fender removed.



At bottom right is the carter in-line fuel filter in the line from the tank to the fuel pump and the second carter ceramic fuel filter is between the pump and the carb. I still have to tidy up the wiring into a harness of sorts.



Here is the tank I have stripped and repainted. You can also see the front straps I made up, which I'm strangely proud of. Weird how the simple things can give the most satisfaction, right? The drivers side hook had to get lowered to get the strap to work properly.



This is the dash, all gauges installed, again some tidying up of wiring under the dash still to be done and I need to secure the flasher unit properly, probably to the firewall. My original gas pedal (that I didn't realise had a very poor wire Bubba fix through to the accelerator linkage) has been replaced with a take-off that now has the proper push rod. That will make a big difference to my next drive! You can see also the windshield hold down clamps which are now installed.

So, as I say, good progress all round and I'm getting pretty close to stripping it back to the frame and getting some paint on this thing!

I'm looking forward to putting some gas in tomorrow and going for a drive! I'll calibrate a dowel rod as I put the gas in so that I can later figure out if my aftermarket gauge is telling the truth or not!

More pics no doubt on Thursday!

Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 20 Mar. 2018 at 10:40pm
Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:

Oh I've got lots of pics... just not very exciting ones...


"Exciting" is in the eye of the beholder.  Your project is looking really exciting from here.  Post all the pics you want!  Wink


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 22 Mar. 2018 at 5:27am
So I made some significant progress yesterday!

  1. Tidied up the under dash wiring so that it is out of the way and not dangling on my feet. The flasher unit is now attached to the inside of the firewall. I am starting to look for some friction tape to wrap the wiring into a harness, so this job is not quite complete yet.
  2. The original air cross over tube which I had to source, clean and paint is now properly installed on the head studs.
  3. Air filter pan is filled with oil as required.
  4. Dizzy has the correct rotor installed! I am currently running a IAY4401, which is not originally  correct for the CJ2A, but it is interchangeable. It came with a mismatched rotor correct for the IAD style and I didn't know any better! It's only when I started looking at dizzy's that I found out the rotor was incorrect. Surprisingly it actually ran though! How important having the correct rotor is, or what issues having the incorrect rotor is likely to cause, is difficult to gauge because with the cap on you can't see nuttin'. But you kinda think it would be important to have the correct rotor on, so I changed mine out.
  5. I filled the fuel tank with fuel in 5 litre batches and calibrated a wooden dowel rod after each batch (full tank = 40 litres, so each 5 litres should show 1/8 full on the gauge). The gauge showed nothing up to 30 litres, which was frustrating because it had worked when hooked up on the bench. I then tapped the sender unit flange and at 3/4 full it jumped straight to beyond full on the gauge Unhappy. I guess the slider was a bit too tight to move without help, which is normally provided as the fuel slops around in the tank? So it seems as though the gauge is over-reading, and I will have to re calibrate the gauge by bending the sender arm, using my dowel gauge as a reference. Luckily I made the effort with the dowel!
  6. I fixed a small leak in the bottom of the fuel tank by tightening the drain plug (which was only finger tight) Oops! Embarrassed
  7. I reinstalled the front fender and the front seat.
I could now crank the engine, and the good news is it has fuel (no leaks anywhere), it started quickly after a few months of standing, and it seems to run and idle better than before. Possibly due to the correct dizzy rotor? Or just my imagination...

I went for a drive around the block at home with my wife. The electrics are all working as expected, no obvious fuel leaks, and the engine pulls well! It was fun to be driving this little vehicle again!





I feel like I am making some progress!

So one of the reasons that I wanted to drive the jeep before it got painted was so that I could do a proper shake-down and fix anything that needed fixing. One of those items cropped up yesterday.

There was a "hole in the exhaust" sound from the engine bay and when I investigated I found out that the firewall-side heat riser shaft bushing is missing. It has come loose and fallen out probably as the manifold expanded with the heat. Ouch I replaced these new when I was working on the manifold and I remember they seemed very oversized at the time. I blamed bad repro parts, and reduced the outside diameter a little until it was a tight press fit, but I obviously took off too much. I will have to source new bushings, and unless there is a way to press one in without removing the shaft, I will have to replace the shaft and re-weld the flapper at the same time. I guess I will have to do all of this when the body is off for final painting. At least my final shakedown theory is justified I guess...  

I also think my alternator is not charging, so this needs to come out and be tested properly.

So all in all a good day, a little frustrating about the heat riser bushing, but that's the nature of the beast.

My to-do list for the next few weeks looks like this:
  1. Tidy up wiring into harnesses once I find friction tape
  2. Install spare tire bracket
  3. Pick up original top bows from Cape Town when I am there in 1 weeks time! They are travelling over with some parents of friends who are coming for a visit
  4. ID all extra holes in the body so that these can be welded closed when the body is off for final paint.
  5. Remove and find out what is wrong with my alternator.
  6. Order heat riser bushings and miscellaneous non-metric screws that I have discovered I need.

I will be taking pics of my tub and posting on the page for help identifying the extra holes.

Thanks for reading.

Mike


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 22 Mar. 2018 at 7:40am
More good news... I found some of the cloth harness tape in a local auto electrics shop! Now I can bind up my wiring into a harness of sorts and have it look at least a little bit period correct. Not to mention protect the wires at the same time.

Thumbs Up


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 22 Mar. 2018 at 9:08am
Nice work Mike,

I think it looks pretty cool just how it sits.

I've said it before, but I need to say it again. The patience and persistence you have to get this done is amazing. I can't wait for an hour if I have a bolt or screw in my misc. jar that will work, in it goes and off I go.  

Seriously amazing!!


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Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Date Posted: 22 Mar. 2018 at 10:16am
Mike: Great work progress. Your persistence in getting your jeep operating is amazing. You are in an area of the world where not many jeeps were imported and that makes it doubly hard to source correct parts for a restoration. I'm not sure I could have done the same job under the circumstances because I would want to drive it...now!

About the alternator. With my alternator setup the ammeter almost always is showing the needle at zero. Neither a charge or a discharge. This is because the battery is at full charge. This would be the case if the battery is in excellent condition and all connections are clean and tight. The only time my ammeter shows a charge on the dial is immediately after I have started the the motor and within about five seconds the charge tapers off to zero again. If this is your same situation, I wouldn't be concerned about the condition of your alternator. Of course, if something else is happening, then it bears looking into.

Kudos!

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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red"





Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 23 Mar. 2018 at 6:02am
Stan and Ed, thanks for the kind words! This restoration has surely been a great test of patience. When I have run out of patience in the past and forced something or used the wrong tool, I have broken something and then regretted it immediately. So I have learned to research, find out what to do, then how to do it, and only then start doing it. But this does result in a long and slow project. Sept will be 4 years...

Ed, I'm interested to hear about your alternator behaving like mine because mine was apparently working on the bench when I took it to an auto-electrician for testing about 3 years ago.
Why I thought now it is not working:
  1. I've never seen the ammeter needle reading anything on the + side of the gauge, even when the revs are up
  2. Reading with a voltmeter from the alternator charging terminal to the alternator casing, from the alternator charging terminal to the battery negative terminal, and from the battery positive terminal to the battery negative terminal, was all reading exactly the same voltage this past weekend, both with the engine off, engine idling, and engine revving. All at 12.54 V. So I concluded that the alternator wasn't pushing out anything. It should be reading about 14 V or more when the engine is at higher rpm, right?
So if I read your post correctly, the alternator will not try and charge a battery that is already fully charged, which makes sense. What would the voltage need to drop to on the battery for the alternator to cut in?


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Date Posted: 23 Mar. 2018 at 11:47am
Mike, you are getting into areas of electrical work that I don't have a very good grounding on. My kid brother was kind enough to get my wiring straightened out for me, otherwise, I'm sure I would still be fumbling around with a jeep that wouldn't start eventually.

I do know that unlike a generator, the alternator isn't as dependent on engine speed. It should put out the same voltage at high rpm as it would at idle.

Wish I could help further, but my ignorance on electrical systems is legendary.

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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red"





Posted By: Nothing Special
Date Posted: 23 Mar. 2018 at 11:49am
You're right, you should be seeing voltage at the battery around 13.5V - 14V with the engine at high idle.  12.5V is just the battery.  And no, the battery voltage doesn't need to drop before the alternator will put out 13.5V - 14V.  However you might not see the ammeter on the + side of the gage unless the battery voltage drops, so don't worry too much about that.  But only at 12.5V does say you have something to worry about.
 


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Bob

Flatfender wannabe
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/nothing-specials-71-bronco_topic42024_post411994.html?KW=#411994" rel="nofollow - '71 Ford Bronco


Posted By: Nothing Special
Date Posted: 23 Mar. 2018 at 11:52am
Originally posted by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A wrote:

....I do know that unlike a generator, the alternator isn't as dependent on engine speed. It should put out the same voltage at high rpm as it would at idle....
 
Somewhat true, but smaller alternators often won't put out enough current at a low idle to get the voltage up to 13.5V, especially if lights or anything are on.  So unless you have a pretty high amp alternator I'd suggest getting it up to at least a high idle to check the voltage.


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Bob

Flatfender wannabe
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/nothing-specials-71-bronco_topic42024_post411994.html?KW=#411994" rel="nofollow - '71 Ford Bronco


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 26 Mar. 2018 at 4:28am
Originally posted by Nothing Special Nothing Special wrote:

You're right, you should be seeing voltage at the battery around 13.5V - 14V with the engine at high idle.  12.5V is just the battery.  And no, the battery voltage doesn't need to drop before the alternator will put out 13.5V - 14V.  However you might not see the ammeter on the + side of the gage unless the battery voltage drops, so don't worry too much about that.  But only at 12.5V does say you have something to worry about.
 

Thanks, this was my understanding. I'll take it out and back to the auto electricians for them to check out again.


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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa


Posted By: JeepSaffer
Date Posted: 26 Mar. 2018 at 4:46am
I only had half a day with the Jeep this weekend due to other commitments, so I only got a few things done. I did bend the fuel sender arm up a little so it is now reading 3/4 full on the gauge when it is 3/4 full in the tank. It remains to be seen whether it stays accurate through the full range...

I also stripped old paint off some take-off footman loops and got them painted up. Time consuming work, but it had to get done. They look good!

I went for another shake down drive to my brother in law, probably 4km round trip. He has 2 boys - 5 years old the 3 years old. It's incredible how kids love these old vehicles! They were all over it, climbing in and out, wanting a ride around the garden, wanting to see the engine. And lots of waves, smiles and heads turning on the ride there and back. People love seeing these old Jeeps on the road!





Man, I am loving driving this vehicle! Even with no windshield glass and a missing bushing in the exhaust manifold (= hole = noise = exhaust fumes) my wife agrees that it is great fun, and wants to come with me whenever I go.

Can't wait to get some paint on this vehicle and get it licenced and roadworthy. I want it as my daily driver!



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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa



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