Elmo
Printed From: The CJ2A Page
Category: CJ-2A Discussion Area
Forum Name: Modifications from original
Forum Description: Show off what mods you can do to a CJ-2A or questions about mods.
URL: https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=42276
Printed Date: 16 Apr. 2024 at 9:40am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Elmo
Posted By: Bridog
Subject: Elmo
Date Posted: 01 May 2018 at 1:24am
Everyone meet Elmo, our newest Jeep project! Elmo is a 1954 CJ3B that we plan on turning into my daily driver and capable trail rig. I got Elmo last year on our way back from playing in Moab. When we went to Moab, Ward, Baja4 on the page, had to leave Moab a couple days before us. I was told we were going to pick up an engine on the way back. When we got to Ward’s we started looking at his collection of 4x4s. We opened up the garage door and there was Elmo. As you can see it’s in pretty rough shape. Long story short we got it home that fall when Ward came to my grandpa’s Jeeping event. Elmo is going to get a brand new custom frame made out of 2x3 and 2x4 1/8” wall tubing. This and some fender trimming will allow us to stretch the wheelbase to about 85”. For the powertrain it will probably be running a 225 “odd fire” V6 that we will build custom fuel injection for. The “odd fire” will be backed by a T98 that was going to be put in a CJ2A my grandpa was building. Behind the T98 will be a Dana 20 we got from Jpet. The t-case has Teralow 3.15 gears and 26 spline output shafts. From that Dana 20 will be running custom driveshafts to ‘86 CJ7 Dana 44 rear and Dana 30 front axles. Those axles will be filled with ARB air lockers and 4.10 gears. Elmo will be running 33” tall tires so we are unsure on what leaf springs we will use. This setup should give me a 82:1 crawl ratio and allow me to go 60 mph at 2600 rpm. For the body we are trying to make it look as close to stock as possible with some military features. -Dylan |
Replies:
Posted By: Metcalf
Date Posted: 01 May 2018 at 1:46am
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Fuel injecting a 225 is a headache, I'd just do with a modded motorcraft 2100 and a wideband gauge. It takes 5 minutes to change jets, works great off road, really flat head screwdriver simple, really reliable. ------------- 42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck. |
Posted By: baja 4
Date Posted: 01 May 2018 at 4:39am
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Great to see you start a thread on Elmo, Dylan. Sounds like a very good combination, to build a really nice Jeep. You've definitely done your homework on parts. Will be looking forward to many updates as you, your dad, and grandpa build Elmo. Elmo sat in my yard for a long time waiting for the right person to come along. Very glad he went to you. It's going to be fun to see you bring him back to life. Ward
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Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 01 May 2018 at 10:04am
A true case of "Jeep Disease".  I like what you guys do. Quality work that really works on the trail. Oilly------------- Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron! |
Posted By: jpet
Date Posted: 01 May 2018 at 12:14pm
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It’s going to a lot of fun watching this build! Hopefully, we will get to wheel with you and “Elmo” soon! When is Ellie going to start on her Jeep?  ------------- CJ2A #29110 "General Willys" MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
Posted By: m38mike
Date Posted: 01 May 2018 at 1:11pm
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This looks like it's going to be a super, all-in-one, rough rider and highway miler project. I'm anxious to see pics of your custom frame. I've always been interested in that idea. If you want someone to take the problems out of setting up your engine with EFI, you should check out HamiltonFuelInjection.com. He built the system I'm using and I'm very happy with mine so far. ------------- M38Mike 46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 02 May 2018 at 12:41am
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John, I think you are right...we have "Jeep Disease". Two years ago at our first FCT we had 1 flattie and it seemed like everybody else there had several. Since then we have acquired 2 more so I am thinking you all were contagious! My 4 oldest kiddos like Jeeps to some degree and the 5th probably will too but he is only 3 months old so we will have to wait and see. It is a good thing there is at least 3 years of age in between each of them to allow time for builds to take place one at a time. Fuel injecting the odd-fire will be one of the more challenging obstacles, but we have a plan and with the help of others like what Mike mentioned I am confident it can be done and be reliable. That will be a while off and there is a lot of rust repair and body work to conquer first. 
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Posted By: Rick G
Date Posted: 02 May 2018 at 7:09pm
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congratulations Dylan on starting Elmo. I’m anxious to see Elmo come to life. Keep us updated on your progress. Looking forward to the next time we can get together! ------------- 1947 CJ2a #119929 "Gus" 1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268 “Newt” https://youtube.com/channel/UCzTVBgCMit8vi2lFgnKs9YQ" rel="nofollow - My Videos |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 09 May 2018 at 3:41am
Over the past few weeks (yes, we did start on Elmo before the thread), we have started on the tub. First thing we had to do was fill all the holes on the cowl and sides. I think we counted over 200! That night we also found a big hole in the passenger rear corner filled with chicken wire and body putty. We patched that hole with some 18ga steel. We also had some rust at the bottom of the rear corner. We cut the rust out and my grandpa is going to make a piece and bend a lip to match it. We will keep you updated as we do more bodywork on Elmo. -Dylan  
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Posted By: Rick G
Date Posted: 09 May 2018 at 5:07am
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Pretty exciting Dylan! What are those two sets of 7 holes on each side of the dash? Were those for built in speakers? And the two square holes? ------------- 1947 CJ2a #119929 "Gus" 1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268 “Newt” https://youtube.com/channel/UCzTVBgCMit8vi2lFgnKs9YQ" rel="nofollow - My Videos |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 10 May 2018 at 3:10am
The two sets of 7 holes we are assuming were for speakers. The two square holes were for ashtrays. Judging from the modifications on the tub, this Jeep has had a very interesting past. |
Rick G wrote:Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 10 May 2018 at 4:21am
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Did the "speaker" holes count as part of the 200? ------------- There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 11 May 2018 at 1:40pm
Nope. So far all the holes we have filled were on the outside of the tub. We still have lots of holes to fill in the floorboard along with those in the dash.
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Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 12 May 2018 at 5:31am
Bubba sure loves his drill...  ------------- There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 2:27pm
Sorry for the delayed update, but we have gotten some work done in the past month. About 4 weeks ago we took the top bow holders off behind the front seats. It took us awhile to make them look clean, but we got it done. We didn’t have much time left after that, but we were able to patch a big hole in the firewall that we think might have been for swinging pedals. Then a couple of weeks ago, we got the lip bent and patched the spot were we cut the pieces out by the tailgate last month. That and about 15 holes in the rear fender wells and we were out of time for the night. Then, just a couple of nights ago my dad patched the speaker holes in the dash. While he was doing that, my grandpa and I got the rear fender marked and ready to cut out for a 33-35” tire. We will try to get some more done in a couple of weeks after BHR. -Dylan       
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Posted By: mbullism
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 2:51pm
Steady progress beats no progress  ... looking good!------------- Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany |
Posted By: LuzonRed47
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 5:39pm
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Very cool project that's got three generations of family engaged! I like your powertrain and chassis strategy. ------------- CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947) ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 27 July 2018 at 11:36pm
We finally got something done on Elmo other than filling holes. We cut the rear fender openings to clear a 35” tire. Well, actually we cut them to a 34” diameter then we used pliers to to bend a 1/2” lip on the fenders. The radius from where the rear fender goes into the corner was a little tight making us have to cut it and weld it a couple of times. After that we straightened up the rear corners and filled more holes in the floorboard. Then, last weekend, we cut the drivers front fender mount off the tub and made a new piece to weld on. After that we filled even more holes in the firewall. Luckily, I don’t think there are much more than twenty holes left before we start on the floorboard and rock sliders. -Dylan   
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Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 27 July 2018 at 11:50pm
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Love what you guys do. Oilly ------------- Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron! |
Posted By: baja 4
Date Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 4:08am
| Anything lately? |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 8:01pm
Yes, we have gotten some work done on Elmo. About a month ago we cut the toolbox out. We did it by just drilling out the spot welds. Then we used the plasma cutter and cut it out in a couple of different chunks. A couple of weeks ago we finished filling holes! We did it just as we usually do by welding them shut with a chunk of aluminum behind the hole. If they were too big to do that, we would make a patch and weld it in. Due to different size holes in the dash, we would use a small washer, weld it in place, and then fill the center hole. Then, just last week, we started getting ready for the rock sliders. Our idea is to use 3" x 1 1/2" x 3/16" wall rectangular tubing. To make room for the tubing we cut the bottom 2 1/4" off of the side of the tub, then bent a 3/4" lip in, and then we will weld the tube to that flange. So that night we got the passenger side cut. We then used 2 pieces of flat iron and clamped them on both sides 3/4" up and used a hammer to bend the lip. Also last weekend my dad, sister, and grandparents went to Fall Willy's Reunion. There they found a good solid CJ3B windshield frame with minimal rust for $40 that they bought. That is all the progress for now, and we look forward to seeing many of you at FCT. -Dylan       
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Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 8:09pm
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Those trail rocks won't stand a chance against Elmo! I love that you are saving him and returning him to use. Oilly ------------- Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron! |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 14 Sep. 2018 at 4:31pm
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Just a reminder Brian in case your not up on 3B peculiarities... Be sure to use 3B pivot brackets on the windshield not Low hood pivot brackets. ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: Nothing Special
Date Posted: 14 Sep. 2018 at 5:39pm
Fixed it for you! ------------- Bob Flatfender wannabe https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/nothing-specials-71-bronco_topic42024_post411994.html?KW=#411994" rel="nofollow - '71 Ford Bronco |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 14 Sep. 2018 at 6:54pm
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Yeah I know. I should be going straight to the boss and just skip the helpers. Ha Ha Ha ! ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 03 Nov. 2018 at 12:36am
Between Jeeping trips we were able to finish Elmo’s rock sliders. First we cut and bent a flange on the driver's side of the tub to match what we had already done to the passenger's side. Starting with (2) 42” pieces of 1.5” x 3” x 3/16” wall rectangle tubing we notched, bent, and welded them to match the bend in the body at 22” back from the front. We then drilled a series of 1/4” holes in each flange we bent on the tub, 27 in each flange to be exact. We then clamped the tubing to the tub and marked 3 holes on each slider that we later drilled and tapped. This allowed us to temporarily bolt the rock sliders into place. Once we get all done we will plug weld all 54 holes, securing the rock sliders to the tub. Trying to keep the original look, we decided to retain the drain holes by sleeving the rock sliders. To build the sleeves we wrapped some 3/16” metal around (4) pieces of 3/4” rod we cut and welded together. Once we had the sleeves fabricated we slotted the sliders and welded them into place. After the drain holes were done we cut the front of the sliders to match the tub/fender line and capped them. Next we copied the original steps onto (4) pieces 3/16” plate, cut them out, spaced them 1.25” apart, wrapped the outside with some more 3/16” plate, and welded them into place. Our final task on the sliders was to finish the back of them where they meet the rear fender. This was done by cutting them to match the fender line and capping them with some more 3/16” plate.      When Ward came back for Rockfest he brought me a few goodies including a 225 odd-fire that we are hoping is in good shape. Our next step is fabricating a frame. The 2” x 3” x 11ga and 2” x 4” x 11ga tubing has been ordered and we are currently finishing the design details. -Dylan |
Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 03 Nov. 2018 at 11:05am
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Wow, Dylan, this is very cool! Your dad had told me about Elmo, but I wasn't aware of this build thread. Nice work so far! Love those rock sliders, may have to borrow that idea for Targhee! Jack
------------- 1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His) 1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers) 1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer Instagram: old_money_2a |
Posted By: windyhill
Date Posted: 03 Nov. 2018 at 1:19pm
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Cool project, love seeing the Little helpers hard at work! Your boy looks like he knows what he's doing! EFI on a Odd fire is getting much easier. lots of info on ECJ5. I'm planing to convert my 225 3B as well. ------------- '48 CJ2A '53 CJ3B '59 CJ6 '65 CJ5 '67 CJ5 |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 03 Nov. 2018 at 10:50pm
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Here is another little helper! 
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Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 10 Dec. 2018 at 10:16pm
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We got some work done on Elmo’s frame. Two weeks ago we used the 48’ of tubing to cut the frame rail pieces. Then last weekend we welded them together. The frame is set up for a 85” wheelbase with Jeep YJ springs. The rails are 2x4” in the middle and 2x3” on the ends. The frame will flare out to a 36” rear from the 30” front. We also made a rear bumper out of 2x3” tubing that is 50” wide. The next step is to weld on the bumper and some temporary crossmembers. -Dylan     
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Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 10 Dec. 2018 at 11:48pm
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Very interesting update there Dylan and helper. Looks good... I like the way your angle cut the transitions from from the 4" to the 3" tube. That tube should be ideal for spray arc technique. Can you turn your amps enough up to get a smooth spray arc with your mig ? ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: tamnalan
Date Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 12:58am
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Men of steel! ------------- Alan Johnson 1942 MB - "TBD" 1943 MB - "Lt Bob" 1950 cj3a M-100 x2 teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740 |
Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 1:03am
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85" wheelbase and YJ springs = awesome ride! Thanks for the update! ------------- 1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His) 1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers) 1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer Instagram: old_money_2a |
Posted By: sonoblast77
Date Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 5:08pm
| With the yj springs do you have to weld wider spring perches on your axle tubes? And do you have to use the boomerang style shackles with the yj springs conversion? Just curious, i thought of changing to them, i just dont want the extra lift that comes with the boomerang shackles. |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 12 Dec. 2018 at 3:55am
I Googled "spray arc welding" and even watched a YouTube video of it. That is not the method I welded it with and I doubt that the Millermatic 185 has high enough output voltage to weld with that technique. But if it did and I used the correct shielding gas for that method, I would probably just blow through the 11ga wall tubing.
I am just a "round spring" guy, learning about these flat springs If you still want my opinion though it would be good to use wider spring perches, but not absolutely necessary. Not sure how the best way would be to modify the passenger side front axle mount to accept the wider spring. Maybe the casting could be clearanced another 1/4" with a grinder? Dylan is thinking he wants to narrow a Dana 44 for the front to match the rear and I think most of them are set up for 2 1/2" wide springs. No boomerang shackles, just going to make some basic ones.
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Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 12 Dec. 2018 at 4:17pm
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Dip Transfer vs . Spray Arc Takes a steady hand moving fairly quick at minimal gap. Thin backing stock would be ideal.
And most small gauge or hobby type mig machines cannot adjust to get it right. I've built lots of truck frames and other parts that way using the older transformer type machines. Spray arc produces a very strong weld that needs no grinding to look really nice. And zero spatter.. ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 28 Jan. 2019 at 5:40pm
We are still making progress on Elmo’s frame. After aligning the frame rails with each other and welding on the rear bumper we fabricated a crossmember that is located about where the rear leaf spring hangers will be at. The crossmember kicks up to the rear floorboard height to allow more room for the driveshaft and exhaust. Then we turned our attention to building some mounts that will tie the back of the roll cage and body into the frame. We built these out of 2” square tubing with an 1/8” wall. Plates which are 1/4” thick and 4” square will sandwich the body. The top plate will be welded to the roll cage and the bottom plate is already welded to the 2” square tubing. Then last week we started working on tying the front of the rock sliders and roll cage mount into the frame. To do this we first cut and drilled some 1/4” plates. Then we sleeved the frame rails where the 1/4” plates bolt up for extra strength and so that we do not crush the frame rails when we tighten the bolts. This week we will cut/notch some more tubing and weld it between the rock slider and these plates. Here are a few pics taken along the way with more progress and pics coming soon. -Dylan    
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Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 28 Jan. 2019 at 6:00pm
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That's looking really nice. ------------- '47 CJ2A PU '48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
Posted By: Cj3bmutt
Date Posted: 28 Jan. 2019 at 6:24pm
| Looks good. Enjoying the updates. Can’t wait to see the finished 3B. |
Posted By: Nothing Special
Date Posted: 28 Jan. 2019 at 9:39pm
You might want to consider not having the top and bottom plates the same size. When the sheet metal flexes around one plate as the chassis flexes it stresses the metal. Then when it flexes the other way it bends around the other plate. If the plate edges line up, the stresses are always in the same place and the reversing stresses will fatigue and possibly tear the metal eventually. If the plates are different sizes the stress from flexing one way is in a different place from the stress flexing the other way, so the sheet metal will last quite a bit longer before fatigue would be an issue. ------------- Bob Flatfender wannabe https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/nothing-specials-71-bronco_topic42024_post411994.html?KW=#411994" rel="nofollow - '71 Ford Bronco |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 29 Jan. 2019 at 1:46am
Thanks for bringing that up. I have heard this mentioned before, but I have been reluctant to buy in. The explanation you gave as to why such a failure could occur makes sense to me. I also understand in simple design terms about the stress being concentrated on the thin metal where it meets the plates. In our 20+ years of wheeling I just have not seen an issue where the body metal has failed around a pass through of a structural element done with equal sized plates. For that reason I question as to whether the magnitude and frequency of the metal bending back and forth at the edge of the plates is significant enough to cause the metal to failure prematurely. If failures have occurred I would be interested in knowing under what design and usage conditions the area was subject to and for how long. At this point in the build it would be easy for us to make the top plates slightly larger and we are open to doing that. How much larger would you suggest if we decide to? |
Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 29 Jan. 2019 at 2:14am
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Awesome work Dylan, keep the updates coming! ------------- 1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His) 1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers) 1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer Instagram: old_money_2a |
Posted By: Nothing Special
Date Posted: 29 Jan. 2019 at 3:17am
I don't have any personal experience with that type of failure in this type of application in a vehicle. I know the theory is valid though - I've seen how it plays out in other cases. Where it would be particularly critical is if you were just mounting the roll bar to the sheet metal, using the backing plates to spread the load. In that case fatigued metal compromises the roll bar mount. Since your lower plate is attached to the frame, fatigued sheet metal won't affect the strength of the cage, so I don't think it's a safety risk here. Still, who wants to tear sheet metal? If it doesn't hurt anything I'd make the plates a little different sizes just to gain the safety factor on that. As far as how much bigger, I'd think an extra 1/4" on each side would be plenty. Even 1/8" might be all you'd need. You're just trying to keep the stress from reversing in the same location. ------------- Bob Flatfender wannabe https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/nothing-specials-71-bronco_topic42024_post411994.html?KW=#411994" rel="nofollow - '71 Ford Bronco |
Posted By: JeepN95YJ
Date Posted: 29 Jan. 2019 at 4:41pm
This. I don't see any reason to worry about this at all. These bodies are so small and your mounts are so close together I don't see any way that you could produce enough flexing of the material to ever cause this type of failure during the life of the vehicle. On a unibody vehicle or a desert race truck this might be an issue. But I just don't see this becoming an issue on your jeep. (A very nice build, btw!)
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Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 29 Jan. 2019 at 5:24pm
This thing is really looking good. I love seeing the progress. Keep the posts coming and keep up the good work Dillon and helpers.  ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 29 Jan. 2019 at 7:25pm
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You say that frame is 11 gauge right ? So that means you have 1/8" of wall thickness. When multiplied by 2 vertical walls that would roughly equal a channel frame having 1/4" of wall thickness. Compared to the standard frame with only 3/16" of web (vertical wall) thickness. I also think your not going to see enough frame flex to make the body mounting a real concern. Besides that the body will be mounted to frame using rubber .... right ? ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 29 Jan. 2019 at 8:04pm
Yes, the frame is constructed of 2x3 and 2x4 both with 11ga wall rectangle tubing. Hollow structures like round, square, and rectangle tubing also offer better torsional resistance than channel. The rollcage tied into the frame in at least 8 places should also add some rigidity. I would anticipate the body and frame flex would be a fraction of that of a stock 3B. The body will be bolted directly to the frame...no rubber mounts. Dylan wants to enjoy all that Dauntless has to offer including the vibration
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Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 29 Jan. 2019 at 8:30pm
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I agree...Being tied into the roll cage will also eliminate a lot of frame flex. Consider too that the overall tub will flex some too. FWIW I would add 1/8" of rubber on top/bottom to pad the tub sheet metal. Otherwise the body will literally abrade itself thin from the friction due to any amount of lateral movement. ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: 73 cj5
Date Posted: 30 Jan. 2019 at 6:35am
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Very nice work. I'm building a 55 3B with YJ springs SOA and shackle reversal. Everything will be stock except the brakes. ------------- CJ3B |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 01 Feb. 2019 at 6:57pm
Thanks! We are sticking with the springs under the axles, but will be doing a shackle reversal on the front. We are still kicking around some ideas of how to build the front spring hangers to help deal with the much longer YJ springs. Do you have any pics of the front of yours?
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Posted By: 73 cj5
Date Posted: 01 Feb. 2019 at 9:33pm
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I borrowed the design from another guy (with permission of course) and if you want I'll give you his contact info. Here's where I'm at right now. I have some ways to go but this is about what it'll look like when done. Shackle mounts will be through the frame. Top plates are for my cage mounts.   If I were to do it again I'd make the piece about an inch longer and have them cut on a cnc.   ------------- CJ3B |
Posted By: baja 4
Date Posted: 25 May 2019 at 1:15pm
| Anything lately Dylan? |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 26 May 2019 at 2:02am
We have been making progress on Elmo in the last couple of months. The first thing we did was finish tying in the front of the rocksliders to the frame. This front mount will also be used as a roll cage mount that ties into the frame. The material used to do this is some leftover 2x3” tubing which we sectioned. The plate thickness for both the frame tie in and the roll cage mount is 1/4”.   The next thing we did was cut the floorboard and part of the firewall out. Then we used 3/16” flat iron to replace the piece of metal that makes the transition from the rear floorboard to the front floorboard. We cut and bent some body mounts out of 1/4” metal that we welded to the frame and the 3/16” flat iron. We drilled these mounts for a 3/4” bolt.  Next we made some rear spring hangers. We built them out of 1/4” steel. We made the front of the mount the same width as the frame and angled them out to accept the 2.5” wide YJ springs. The bottom of the spring hangers are angled and plated to allow them to slide over rocks with ease. Then we drilled and sleeved holes in the back of the frame for the shackles we made out of 5/16” steel. The shackles are boomerang shaped to clear the bumper.    The most recent thing we did was to make the spring hangers for the front. These are also 1/4” steel. After cutting and bending them we welded them onto the frame. Then we capped the front and the back of the mounts for strength and looks. The driver’s side mount we made longer and incorporated in a Saginaw steering box mount. We also drilled and sleeved the frame for front shackles that we still have to make.   In this time frame we also picked up a Dana 44 rear axle out of a Scout II. It has 4.10 gears and new Ten Factory shafts. There are no spider gears in it which is fine because we plan on using an ARB air locker. Next we will build a front bumper. We will try to post some pictures of that soon. -Dylan |
Posted By: Greaser007
Date Posted: 26 May 2019 at 4:58pm
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Well, I just perused-thru this build, and you have done an outstanding job of fabricating. Ha, I restored a '77 crewcab Ford pickup in 1996, (my last full body-off resto), and welded up 68 holes ! I thought that was too many, until I got to reading through this. 200+ ! I do like your "rock-sliders" which for the Rubicon, they sure are handy to save sheet metal damage. Of my 18-summers traveling the Rubicon jeep trail, I don't recall ever seeing such a Trick pair. I like having something "different" and what I mean by that is something hand-made and not something purchased off-the-shelf. On the discussion of the roll bar plates-to-body-to-support plates, I agree with Ken, (oldtimer) that myself, I would also go with some rubber matting to alleviate the metal-to-metal condition and to help seal-out water from seeping through to the inside. As if it matters _ _ right ! hahahaa My first thought when you guys were discussing the sandwiching issue, I agree that you won't be experiencing much frame twist, although that depends. When Ken mentioned welding "Spatter" I want to share this: My mig welder is a Linde 225 mig-master I bought new 35+ years ago. With the argon-mix gas it welds smooth-as-silk. But using .035 wire on thin sheet metal is tough. When I bought it I pushed .030 wire through the .035 liner, and experienced multiple feed-roll ball-ups. I never did purchase an .030 liner, BUT i'd better put that on my bucket-list. chortle ! For convenience, I have been suffering through numerous welding projects with my little Lincoln 110 mig which operates on 110v and I also am running .035 wire with flux-core to be able to weld outside the shop in the wind. Talk about SPATTER !!! I cuss everytime I use the Lincoln 110 mig because of the spatter. So, I waltzed into the local welding shop, and complained, and the salesman Grinned, and said "Live with it, that is how it is with those when running Flux-core wire" ! So, I got no sympathy but I got to cry on his shoulder and get it off my chest. Little good it did. There is nothing better than working with new steel which is nice and clean. I like rubber spring bushings because they Flex, and stay in place better than those Slick Poly bushing, which IMO are just too Stiff and Slick, and try to Spit-Out of the bushing housings when really twisted, then they tear too. Do ya think you have a few hours in running weld-beads ! one-or-two hahaha That 3B ain't gonna be a Trailer-Queen that's for Sure. Nice work My projects similar to this came to a screeching-halt when I took a state job for a 20-year window, and up-rooted my family and moved. I am now 2-years retired, and just did get myself a 220v outlet to once again use that Linde 225 and with the argon-mix, no Spatter ! Now, once again, I may begin laying beads and burning stuff together producing smooth welds like yours. I sure missed it for too long. Question: in case I missed it. What Color will the body be. then what Color for the roll-bar and accessories ? |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 27 May 2019 at 2:46pm
Right now we think we will make Elmo the green that some Renegade CJ5s were which is called Mint Green (although it’s more of a lime). We’ll probably make the roll cage that same color. The frame and axles will be satin black. |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 28 May 2019 at 6:47pm
| We are still looking for a 3B grill for Elmo. If somebody out there has one they are willing to part with or has a good lead on one we would appreciate knowing about it. Thanks! |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 25 June 2019 at 3:32am
We’ve been working on Elmo’s front bumper lately. A Warn 8274 will eventually be incorporated into it. The first thing we did was bend and cut a 1/4” plate that slides over a 2x3” tube crossmember. Then we notched and reinforced the tube to clear the steering box. The 2x3 tube is also sleeved to allow the winch rope to pass through it. We drilled and sleeved bolt holes from the front of the bumper to the 1/4” plate. These holes are used to mount the fairlead and the bottom of the winch. The next step is to cut a slot in the plate for the rope to pass through, fabricate some D-Ring mounts, and weld it all up. More progress to come soon. -Dylan   
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Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 24 July 2019 at 4:52pm
We have still been making progress on Elmo. The first thing that we did after welding the front bumper/crossmember in was to make some extensions. These were made out of leftover 2x3” rectangular tubing from the frame. We drilled and sleeved them to 7/8” to accept soft shackles in place of D-rings. Then we made some front shackles out of 5/16” steel. The latest thing we did was cut off all the mounts welded on the rear axle. We should have more progress to come soon. -Dylan   
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Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 24 July 2019 at 5:31pm
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Dylan, Cool idea on the hole/sleeves for soft shackles. ------------- Stan 48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep) 59 Chevy 1/2 ton https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread |
Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 27 July 2019 at 9:42pm
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Great progress Dylan, keep up the good work. Did you find a 3B grill yet?
------------- 1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His) 1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers) 1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer Instagram: old_money_2a |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 28 July 2019 at 9:29pm
Thanks Jack! We are still looking for a 3B grill. Do you know someone who has one they are willing to part with?
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Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 12:05am
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I just saw one in a guy's bone yard two days ago. He doesn't usually sell what he has, but I'll ask and get back to you if he says yes. ------------- 1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His) 1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers) 1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer Instagram: old_money_2a |
Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 02 Aug. 2019 at 4:18pm
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PM sent. Jack ------------- 1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His) 1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers) 1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer Instagram: old_money_2a |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 04 Sep. 2019 at 4:07pm
We have been making good progress on Elmo lately. The first thing we did was make some grill mounts out of 3/16” steel plate. These were fabricated in a boxed design. We then drilled and tapped them for a 5/16” bolt before tacking them on the frame. The next thing we did was make a front crossmember that goes right behind the grill. This was made out of 2x3” tubing laid flat and will provide a mounting surface for the radiator and fan. After that we fabricated some bump stop mounts. The rear mounts are made out of 1/4” steel and are an open design. We out-boarded the front mounts to get a longer distance between the axle and bump stop. This was done by using 2x3” tubing which we welded a 1/4” plate on the bottom of that the bump stop bolts to. The latest thing we did was the front fenders. To start on these we bent to a piece of 1/4” steel to match the side of the grill. The fenders themselves are made out of 1/8” steel wrapped with 1.5 x .120” wall DOM tubing. We should have more progress once we get back from Colorado. -Dylan      
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Posted By: LuzonRed47
Date Posted: 04 Sep. 2019 at 4:12pm
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Really professional fab work! Your welds are too beautiful to have those dopey turn signals above them. Nice work all around. ------------- CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947) ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 04 Sep. 2019 at 4:50pm
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Nice fab work as always. Elmo seems to be coming along nicely. Is that a real deal 3B grill I see in the photos? ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2019 at 4:04pm
Actually that is just an extra 2A grill we have been using for mock up. Nivrat found us this 3B grill that he is bringing to Colorado for us in a couple weeks! Thanks Mike 
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Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 29 Sep. 2019 at 3:46am
We’ve collected/built a few parts for Elmo in the past couple of weeks. The first thing did was build a rear receiver/hitch. We did this by cutting 4 pieces of 3/16” steel. Then we clamped them around a class 2 receiver. After we welded that up we wrapped the end of it with a strip of 3/16” we cut 1/2” wide. As we mentioned earlier Mike Tarvin (Nivrat) gave us a CJ-3B grill, which looks really good on Elmo. We also decided to go with an automatic on Elmo. So while we were in Colorado, we picked up a B.O.P. TH350 transmission that is in rebuildable condition. We will keep you updated on Elmo’s progress. -Dylan  
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Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 16 Oct. 2019 at 4:33pm
We got Elmo’s drivetrain in! We bolted it all up using an adapter from Advance Adapter to go from the TH350 to the Dana 20. Once we got it positioned about where we wanted it, we started working on the engine mounts. To do this we welded a piece of 2” square tubing to the stock motor mounts that bolted to the block. Then we welded a plate of 3/16” steel to the other end of the short piece of tubing for the polyurethane mount to bolt to. The last thing we have to do to finish the mounts is build a box that goes from the frame to the polyurethane mounts. We will keep you updated on our progress. -Dylan  
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Posted By: LuzonRed47
Date Posted: 27 Oct. 2019 at 1:30am
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Your welding and fab are inspirational. Hope the driveline isn't harboring any gremlins. ------------- CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947) ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
Posted By: Hank_
Date Posted: 27 Oct. 2019 at 1:43am
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Just read through your thread. Fantastic work in all areas. Love all the custom frame work. Thanks for keeping this thread going. Hank ------------- Hank |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 24 Nov. 2019 at 3:11am
We finished fabricating Elmo’s motor mounts. To do this we used 1/4” plate to make a box on each side that goes from the frame to the polyethylene mounts. There are slots cut in these plates so that we can move the engine forward or back 1/2” if needed. We also started on the skid plate. The first thing we did was make two crossmembers out 1 1/2”x 3/16” wall D.O.M. tubing, one of which has a mount for the transmission. They bolt through the sleeved frame and 1/4” plates using 1/2” bolts. Then we started on two bars made out of the same tubing that will bolt to the crossmembers and have a 1/4” skid plate welded to them. We will keep you updated on our progress. -Dylan    
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Posted By: LuzonRed47
Date Posted: 25 Nov. 2019 at 1:35am
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Mighty impressive fabrication! This jeep will be a killer 3B! ------------- CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947) ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 02 Jan. 2020 at 2:48am
Although we have been busy during the holidays, we have found enough time to finish Elmo’s skid plate. The first thing we did was use some 1/4" steel to plate the previously notched tubes. After that we drilled some holes in that piece and the crossmembers to bolt them together. We also rounded the front of the skid plate a little where the tubes meet and added 3 more 3/8” bolts in the back. These bolts go through a 3/8” plate welded to the cross member into another 3/8” plate that is tapped and welded to the skid plate. Then we made a skid plate that welds to the to the back of the rear crossmember to protect the transfer case oil pan. This 1/4” plate was bent to match the rear crossmember. There is also a rim on all 3 sides for extra strength. We are planning to start on the floorboard next and will keep you updated. -Dylan    
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Posted By: Nothing Special
Date Posted: 02 Jan. 2020 at 5:33pm
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Wow! The work you guys do is phenomenal! ------------- Bob Flatfender wannabe https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/nothing-specials-71-bronco_topic42024_post411994.html?KW=#411994" rel="nofollow - '71 Ford Bronco |
Posted By: Craig1017
Date Posted: 26 Jan. 2020 at 12:41am
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Could you elaborate, and perhaps show pictures of how you plan on re-attaching the floor to your new rock sliders? I assume some type of 1x1 angle welded to the slider |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 28 Jan. 2020 at 1:33am
As a matter of fact we have just started on the floorboard. First we used 18ga steel to extend the firewall down to have a better floorboard angle. Then we cut and bent 2 pieces of the same steel for the actual floorboard. These are just tacked in right now but they eventually will just get welded straight to the sliders and the rest of the tub. Then we started on the transmission tunnel. We made the first piece that goes from the bend in the floorboard to the rear riser. This is also 18 ga. We are going to make the tunnel removable which I will elaborate more on in the next update. During this time we also did a little bit of straightening on the grill and fixed a rusted out mount. More on the floorboard is to come shortly. -Dylan    
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Posted By: unclemoak
Date Posted: 01 Feb. 2020 at 3:48pm
| This build looks awesome. I’m always amazed at fabrication and sheet metal work. |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 11 May 2020 at 8:09pm
Although the thread hasn’t been updated, we have been working on Elmo. So, in order to be a detailed as possible, we are going try to give a couple smaller post to get you caught up on our progress. We will start where we left off, the transmission tunnel. After the back half of the tunnel was bent and cut to fit, we took a 1”x1/8” strip of metal and clamped it on the tunnel. We then drilled holes through them both. We took the strip of metal off and tapped it, while we drilled the hole in the tunnel out to accept 1/4” bolts. We bolted them together and tacked the 1/8” lip to the floorboard. After bending and trimming another piece of 18ga for the front half of the tunnel we made a lip for it to. Having the tunnel bolt on and off like this should allow easy access to the transmission and transfer case. -Dylan   |
Posted By: tamnalan
Date Posted: 11 May 2020 at 8:22pm
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Beautiful work! Some serious skills in that shop.
Dzus fasteners to hold that tunnel panel on? ------------- Alan Johnson 1942 MB - "TBD" 1943 MB - "Lt Bob" 1950 cj3a M-100 x2 teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740 |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 12 May 2020 at 7:14pm
Thanks! We are just using normal 1/4” bolts. Once we had the transmission tunnel finished, we moved on to the next project, notching the fenderwells. We first made a cardboard template to make sure it looked good from the outside. Then we started cutting. Once we had the fenderwells cut out, we traced the cardboard templates onto some 18ga. We cut the pieces out and tacked them together. After we welded them into the fenderwell, we ground them down good enough for the time being. We still have some final polishing to do once we take the tub off, but we have a lot more leg room than what we had. -Dylan   |
Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 17 May 2020 at 3:08am
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Just a guess, but I'm thinking you'll find that you can skip about half (maybe more!) of those screws on that tunnel. Either that or you'll want to keep a power screwdriver in the Jeep just in case you need to remove the tunnel while on the trail. Carpal tunnel syndrome is not pleasant. ------------- There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 7:25pm
The next thing we worked on was the steering column. First we made a clamp to hold it to the dash. This is made out of 2 strips of 2”x3/16” metal. We bent it to look fairly close to stock. It bolts on the same lip that the original one does, only we moved that lip 1” farther toward the drivers side. Next we cut a piece a of 2”x.125" wall round tubing and machined an aluminum piece for each end. These aluminum pieces hold bearings for the 3/4” steering shaft to ride in and also supports a 1 1/4” OD round tube. This 1 1/4" tube separates the steering shaft from some wires that will run inside the column. These wires are for the turn signals, horn, key, and push start button. We made little boxes out of 1/8” metal to house the switches for the previous mentioned functions. We then machined and welded a piece of 3/16” plate on the end of our steering shaft. A Grant steering wheel bolts through that plate into another aluminum piece we machined. This aluminum helps to hide the 3/16" plate and the other aluminum piece that holds the bearing. -Dylan  
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Posted By: nofender
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 7:43pm
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This here is some next level fabbing! Bravo! ------------- 46 CJ2a rockcrawler 46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 8:29pm
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Nice work guys. I think I would bust my knees on those boxes. ------------- Stan 48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep) 59 Chevy 1/2 ton https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 10:15pm
When the steering column was finished, we moved on to the pedal assembly. First we made a bracket out of 3 pieces of 3/16” steel. This bracket is set up for a Corvette brake booster and master cylinder to directly bolt to it through the firewall. It welds to the steering column. We also incorporated mounts for a bump stop and brake light switch into this bracket assembly. Then we started on the pedal arm. It is made out of 1”x.188” wall round tubing. At the bottom of the pedal arm is a 1/8” plate that holds a Dorman pedal pad. All we have to do to finish up the brake pedal assembly is put a return spring on it. -Dylan   
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Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 3:27am
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Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 3:48am
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What a coincidence . . I starting this evening trying to figure out how to mount that EXACT same radiator in Wilson. I got so excited to think I could just copy the installation from the "masters", until I realized there were some differences,  . . not the same crossmember, 3B grille, etc. Still might get some ideas though. If I have not said before . . this is truly impressive build.
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Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 3:59pm
We actually have the same radiator in Rojo and Blueberry. Rojo uses a stock frame and we did have to shave some of the round crossmember off in order to get it under the hood. There are a few pics of it on this thread towards the bottom of the link below. https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/cj2a-build-deadline-fct-2017_topic39450_page2.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/cj2a-build-deadline-fct-2017_topic39450_page2.html Thank you! Hopefully Dylan has as much fun driving Elmo as we are having during the design and fabrication phase of the build. |
Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 30 May 2020 at 4:43am
Thanks for the link! I may have lucked out somehow, (maybe 225 is shorter), but I was able to place the radiator behind the stock cross-member. It is tight fit, but still gives about 1" clearance to fan. https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/uploads/4918/Radiator1.jpg" rel="nofollow - https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/uploads/4918/Radiator1.jpg I am sure Dylan will have fun driving, after the design and build. He already has some experience. Curious, is a fan shroud necessary with these radiators? Or maybe so over-designed for this application, that it works fine without one?
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Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 03 June 2020 at 7:17pm
A couple of weekends ago we picked up a front axle for Elmo. It is a wide track Dana 44 out of a Cherokee Chief. Once we got it out of a very muddy junk yard, we brought it home and disassembled it. We got it cleaned up and cut the drivers side knuckle off with a cut off wheel. By the time it was ready to have the knuckle welded back on, we had cut 3 1/2” of tube off. This will make have 28” springs perch centers and be about 57” wide to match the back. Once the knuckle was welded back on, we welded a new drivers side spring perch on. We also drilled a new hole 1” farther back on the passengers side one to have the axle offset on the spring. During this time we also finished the pedal assembly. This included putting a return spring, bump stop, and brake light switch on it. We also put some springs on the steering column that will hold our bearings in place. More updates to come soon. -Dylan       |
Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 03 June 2020 at 9:59pm
I understand the offset ( moves the axle forward) but why just the passenger side? Educate me please. ------------- '47 CJ2A PU '48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
Posted By: Fltfndr
Date Posted: 03 June 2020 at 10:05pm
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Me too, why just the passenger side. Would it not also change caster? A one inch chance in wheelbase?Fltfndr ------------- Fltfndr 1948 CJ2A Restomod "Six Pac" The object of war is not to die for your country, but make the other bastard die for his. George S. Patton |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 04 June 2020 at 1:07am
Sorry I wasn’t very clear. We also drilled an extra hole on the drivers side perch before we welded it on the axle. In addition to a longer wheelbase, the reason we did that was to get a better approach angle with the longer YJ springs. The caster with the way we currently have it is about 3 degrees. |
Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 04 June 2020 at 2:03am
Ok good .....I had done that years ago on mine but had never heard of doing just one side....ya got me there for a few.  Great progress and very clean fab work...carry on. Good job! ------------- '47 CJ2A PU '48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
Posted By: Fltfndr
Date Posted: 04 June 2020 at 4:04pm
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Just so you are aware, I am running Holbrook Longleafs When I installed them, My shackles had a negative angle so I moved the rear spring perch forward about an inch, essentially moving the front axle forward an inch as your additional hole will do. My problem arose when I tried to do a tie rod flip. My drag link hit the tie rod, even with a shorter pitman arm. Solution was to move spring perch back to its original location as instructed by Holbrook. Just FYI Fltfndr ------------- Fltfndr 1948 CJ2A Restomod "Six Pac" The object of war is not to die for your country, but make the other bastard die for his. George S. Patton |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 05 June 2020 at 3:22pm
Thanks for the heads up. When we designed the steering box mounts, we drew it all out on a piece of poster board with the frame, axle, spring, and steering box. With the picture, we figured out where to place it at where everything should clear when the suspension is fully drooped or compressed. I guess we will see when it is all done. We still have the old holes in the spring perches if we need to move the axle back, but we would definitely prefer not to. |
Posted By: Delmo
Date Posted: 05 June 2020 at 3:30pm
The next thing we made on Elmo was the front shock mounts. To start off, we made two hoops out of 1 1/2”x .120” wall D.O.M. tubing. Once those were done we made two 3/16” plates for each side. They slide over the tube and have three holes each: one for the shocks, one for a crossover bar that will go between them, and one for a mount that we will have to the fender. After those were tacked on the frame, we made some for the axle side. These are also 3/16” plates. We got them where we wanted and tacked them on. We will put an update on the inner fenderwells soon, as they are our next project. -Dylan   |
Posted By: Fltfndr
Date Posted: 05 June 2020 at 5:17pm
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Did you lengthen the frame in the front? If you did and then mounted the steering box further forward, forget anything I said. You are way ahead of me design wise. Just the ramblings of an old man. (older than Snave) Fltfndr ------------- Fltfndr 1948 CJ2A Restomod "Six Pac" The object of war is not to die for your country, but make the other bastard die for his. George S. Patton |
Posted By: snave
Date Posted: 06 June 2020 at 2:58am
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Wow gotta go plum to IA to find out someone older than me! ------------- Fuzz |