Print Page | Close Window

Targhee: a Moab/Rubicon flatfender build

Printed From: The CJ2A Page
Category: CJ-2A Discussion Area
Forum Name: Your Jeep Project
Forum Description: Show everyone progress on your jeep!
URL: https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=43044
Printed Date: 29 Mar. 2024 at 8:35am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Targhee: a Moab/Rubicon flatfender build
Posted By: jbjeeps
Subject: Targhee: a Moab/Rubicon flatfender build
Date Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 5:08pm
So here's the first entry on this build thread.  

This Jeep will now be known as "Targhee".  We live up against the Targhee National Forest in that corner of southeast Idaho that touches both the Yellowstone and the Teton National Parks. Some of our best old Jeep rides have been on the roads of the Targhee. 

I'm thinking of this build as a "mild" rock crawler, if there is such a thing. :) I want a Jeep that will take me safely and reliably into some more extreme country, but I don't need a monster Jeep that will climb or descend the toughest obstacles out there.  

Thanks again for all the good info you've given me so far. I'm looking forward to this build and glad to have you all along. 

Jack




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             



Replies:
Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 5:29pm
Pictures? Years ago a person had to host their pics on a website in order to post them in a forum thread. Is that still true or can I post directly from my phone?

-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: TateC
Date Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 5:43pm
I have had good luck with posting photos by using the tree icon in the tool bar in the comment box. I don’t think you need a hosting site anymore. This probably makes no sense what so ever but hopefully someone who knows what they are talking about will comment. 

-------------
Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687
1943 Willys MB #263100
1944 Ford GPW #234613
1945 Willys CJ2A #10226


Posted By: jpet
Date Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 7:04pm
The main thing to remember is when you take a picture with your phone, take horizontal pictures with the camera in the top left corner.

-------------
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 7:11pm
Don't start building this till you have a complete plan that entails at least the basics concerning the various assemblies. 

Like a ground up builds it will begin with the frame. 
You can use the frame you have or upgrade.
The best flatty frames are post 1949 through 1965 .
All of the post 1949 flatty frames are superior too pre 1949 frames.
My favorite flatty frames are the 3A and the 3B frames.
M38 frames are also good but I prefer civilian over the M38 frames for a few reasons.

Guess that we're ready to see pics of what you have for starters.

Enjoy the build......!



-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: Stev
Date Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 8:21pm
Oldtime - What are the "few reasons" you prefer the 3A and 3B frames?



-------------
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 11:18pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Don't start building this till you have a complete plan that entails at least the basics concerning the various assemblies. 


Sort of disagree with this statement a little.
When I started my build I had no idea what I wanted. I just knew I wanted to drive this Jeep sooner rather than later,  so I just fixed all the stock stuff and started driving.
As my experience and knowledge progressed I tweaked this and that to get me to where I am today.
If I had waited until I had a complete plan I would still be looking at a pile of parts in my garage and would never have driven an inch.
Yes, I have done some things twice or more times, and I have spent a bunch more money than I would have had I had my current end in mind when I started. But I also would not have the experience that I do now, or the understanding of why I like what I have now over what I had before.

So, if you have a plan that is good. If you don’t have a plan, use this:

1. Make if run and move.
2. Make stop.
3. Make it light up and legal.
4. Drive it like you stole it.
5. Season to taste but most important, keep driving it. 

I hate missing a trail driving opportunity because my rig is in pieces so I usually do my big stuff in the winter.

As always with opinions, your mileage may vary.





-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 1:07am
Quote  Oldtime - What are the "few reasons" you prefer the 3A and 3B frames?
 
Dang !
 I was afraid someone might ask that. 
Now I have to try and remember why.... Ha Ha Ha !

Well it basically goes into the differences between the different flat fender jeep frames.

This link details all of the civilian flatty frames.
https://www.cj3b.info/Dating/DatingFrames.html" rel="nofollow - Flatfender Jeep Frames on CJ3B.info

https://www.cj3b.info/Dating/DatingFrames.html" rel="nofollow - -
-


The M38 frame is the only other flatty frame mot detailed in that link.
Let me see if I still recall all the subtle M38 differences by memory.

The M38 frame has the foreward positioned engine mount on the LH side.
It has 8 extra holes at 7/16" diameter)on the rail sides for mounting 4 lifting lugs.
It has 4 extra 1./2" NF tapped holes at top of frame horns for tow hooks ???
It has two frame horn stiffner plates . 
Those horn reinforcement plates include two 7/16" NF tapped holes for a winch cradle.
It has threaded holes in lieu of civilian grill mounting brackets.
It has 7/16" holes for the spring pivot bolts. 
For comparison the Civilian uses a special 9/16" greasable pivot bolt that is superior. 
It has vertical frame stiffners welded directly above the rear axle bumpers.
M38 does not have slots in rear cross member to accept a license plate.
It was not drilled to accept the civilian draw bar
I seem to recall that the pintle plate is slightly more beefed up than civilian.

M38 Mike...... help me out here,  surely I missed something.


-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: jpet
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 1:40am


-------------
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 1:54am
Yeah That's a pretty good video. 
I stand corrected I previous mentioned the tie downs but called them lift lugs.
And thought that the top front lift lugs were for recovery hooks.

I now recall a couple other differences. 
The rear M38 crossmember has extra holes for the bumperettes.
And the M38 shocks are held on with nuts and not with cotter pins.


-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 2:24am
This has the makings of a good build thread . .  but in case we all get to wheel together someday . . . how do we pronounce "Targhee"?  LOL   
It might be obvious,  but who knows if any of those letters are silent. Smile


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 2:55am
The "h" is silent.  Accent on the first syllable, TAR'-gee (hard "G").  I lived in Idaho Falls for the last half of 1974 while in the Navy. 


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 4:00am
Originally posted by JeepFever JeepFever wrote:

This has the makings of a good build thread . .  but in case we all get to wheel together someday . . . how do we pronounce "Targhee"?  LOL   
It might be obvious,  but who knows if any of those letters are silent. Smile

Fair question! Glad you asked. Ol' Unreliable is correct! 


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 4:01am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

The "h" is silent.  Accent on the first syllable, TAR'-gee (hard "G").  I lived in Idaho Falls for the last half of 1974 while in the Navy. 

You sir are correct. Not bad for a Navy guy. ;)

Jack B. U. S. Coast Guard '71-75 :)


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 4:26am
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Don't start building this till you have a complete plan that entails at least the basics concerning the various assemblies.

Yes. And I would add to that, "until I have all the pieces I want".

My garage space is limited and I don't have the option of leaving things spread out while I hunt for parts. Winter in Idaho comes quickly and my wife is rather of fond of having her car in the garage.  

In addition to being set on having a good NT Dana 30 and Dana 44, I'm beginning to have second thought about my frames.  I actually have two GPW frames with good titles, one is exceptional, the other needs work. But you've got me thinking that maybe I should keep looking for a solid 2a or 3a frame before I start taking things apart. 

I actually have a good 3a frame too, but it's under one of my favorite old Jeeps and I really hate to take it apart.  My wife has vetoed that idea as well. 

I'm talking with the guy with that Commando Dana 30, but I haven't seen it yet so I'm not sure it's the one. 

But, I can get started on rebuilding a trans and transfer. 

I have 3 L134's, 2 run and one is on the engine stand and looks promising. 

My schedule is still Fall '19, so I'm not feeling too much pressure yet. 


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 4:09pm


Decisions! Decisions! Decisions!

Here are the two options so far.  I started out thinking I would use the battered old '43 GPW in the top photo, then moved on to considering the '45 GPW with the repro body.  I have good titles for both of them. But now I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't look for a good 2A or 3A to start with instead. 

In the meantime I'm working on this L134 and it looks like it's going to be a runner. That's an F script trans and transfer sitting on the floor. Pretty rusty inside but they could be saved. I had the engine, trans and transfer combo on display at a local museum for a few years, hence the nice paint.




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 4:20pm
MB GPW parts are do-able but certainly not the best for a crawler build. 
Your GPW's may be worth more to someone who wants to keep their military heritage intact.

Yes L /F-134's  can make very good crawler engines. 
Just build them back to standard specs and perhaps include a high compression head.



-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 4:29pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

MB GPW parts are do-able but certainly not the best for a crawler build. 
Your GPW's may be worth more to someone who wants to keep their military heritage intact.

Yes L /F-134's  can make very good crawler engines. 
Just build them back to standard specs and perhaps include a high compression head.


Yes, I've started thinking the same thing.  Pass the GPW's on to someone to restore. 

We've got a good local machine shop, he's done L/F heads before and will do good job putting one together.

High compression head? Can a stock head be milled down, or is there an actual high comp head?


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 5:11pm
So, now that I've figured out how to post pics, here's a couple more for those of you who said you like to see them. 

These are on display in our family room downstairs. The A1 now has 2 1/2" BDS springs under it and larger tires, the "6" started out as a Forest Service Jeep over in Wyoming years ago and that funky looking 2A/3A that we call "Rancher" came off a local ranch. 

The young griz is one of several we've seen on our rides in the Targhee Forest up along the YNP boundary.  It was early in the season, he was hungry, and mostly ignored us while he ate.




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: TateC
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 5:17pm
A stock head can be milled down but it must be done carefully because of the valve clearance needed. A Kaiser Supersonic head is what you need, they have slightly higher compression then stock. Those look like nice GPWs to start with. Does the Jeep with the repro tub still have the T84? I would assume both are still on original axles. All these parts are not known for there longevity in such extreme use so if you do use either GPW you'll be changing out axles or you'll be fishing out axle shafts on the trail. Maybe it is good to consider a 2a or 3a. Have you thought of using one of the Jeeps you already have as Rick G suggested (I think). Just take your favorite trail jeep and go from there. Overtime you can change or tweak things to you liking.

-------------
Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687
1943 Willys MB #263100
1944 Ford GPW #234613
1945 Willys CJ2A #10226


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by TateC TateC wrote:

A stock head can be milled down but it must be done carefully because of the valve clearance needed. A Kaiser Supersonic head is what you need, they have slightly higher compression then stock. Those look like nice GPWs to start with. Does the Jeep with the repro tub still have the T84? I would assume both are still on original axles. All these parts are not known for there longevity in such extreme use so if you do use either GPW you'll be changing out axles or you'll be fishing out axle shafts on the trail. Maybe it is good to consider a 2a or 3a. Have you thought of using one of the Jeeps you already have as Rick G suggested (I think). Just take your favorite trail jeep and go from there. Overtime you can change or tweak things to you liking.

I sold a Supersonic engine a few years ago, one of those things I wish I'd kept. Cry The repro tub has a later L134 with T90 under it, both GPW's are still on stock axles. I have a lead on an NT Dana 30 front that I'm hoping pans out and I'm still looking for a Dana 44 rear.

I briefly considered using the A1, but I really like it as our trail Jeep so I'll keep it that way. Same with the "6" and the "Rancher". I like them as is so they're off the list of possible candidates. 

So, I'm really starting to lean heavily towards a good 2A or 3A to start with. There's a 2A nearby that could be a good candidate. Waiting to see if the owner can find the title.  


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 6:00pm
Okay, two more "this is who we are" pics, then I promise I'll stick to build thread pics only. Maybe. Who knows. We'll see . . . Smile

The first is at Sheep Falls along the Fall River just outside the south boundary of YNP. Nice little climb down into the canyon to get there. 

The second is yours truly taking a rest after a good ride.




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 6:21pm
How about you and your wife grab one of your running Jeeps (probably “Rancher” since it has flat fenders) and come join us at the Colorado Fall Colors Tour in September?  It is a great time with fun people and a variety of flat fender Jeeps from stock to hardly stock. There will be a couple trails that would be well suited for what you are wanting to build. You would get a lot of ideas about what to build or what not to build. 

I like your trail pics so please keep adding themThumbs Up


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 6:35pm
Originally posted by Bridog Bridog wrote:

How about you and your wife grab one of your running Jeeps (probably “Rancher” since it has flat fenders) and come join us at the Colorado Fall Colors Tour in September?  It is a great time with fun people and a variety of flat fender Jeeps from stock to hardly stock. There will be a couple trails that would be well suited for what you are wanting to build. You would get a lot of ideas about what to build or what not to build. 

I like your trail pics so please keep adding themThumbs Up

I've actually thought about that.  I'm an old retired guy with a pretty loose schedule, but my wife still works as a teacher, so getting away can be tough.

What is the date and location of the Fall ride?  


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 6:50pm
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/colorado-fall-color-tours-2018_topic41521.htmlhttps://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/colorado-fall-color-tours-2018_topic41521.html%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/colorado-fall-color-tours-2018_topic41521.htmlhttps://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/colorado-fall-color-tours-2018_topic41521.html

-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 6:54pm
Originally posted by jbjeeps jbjeeps wrote:


What is the date and location of the Fall ride?  

Here is the link where you can read all about it. It is located near Nathrop, CO.   Hope you can make it!  

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/colorado-fall-color-tours-2018_topic41521.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/colorado-fall-color-tours-2018_topic41521.html




Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 16 Aug. 2018 at 7:21pm
Thanks to you both for posting the link. That looks awesome.  I'll have to see what I can work out.

Edit:  I just watched Lee's 1 minute trailer video. Wow!

Jack


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 17 Aug. 2018 at 2:56pm

Well, after several long days of indecision and reading lots of posts I had a long talk with the GPW last night and we both agreed that the GPW's are not going to be the basis for the Jeep this thread is all about. The frames are just too light for the work we want to do. He's in the garage for a tuneup and some other needed work and then back up to the machine shed at the family farm where most of my Jeep stuff resides.

So, we're back to square one in our search.  I'm starting to think about a 3A frame since they are the stoutest of the flatfender frames. Rancher has a modified 2A body on a 3A frame so I may have to take another look at that one. Otherwise, I'm going to look around and see what's out there. 


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 17 Aug. 2018 at 5:31pm
Maybe it's time for Rancher 2.0. A modernized, heavier duty, off road capable version of the Jeep some old rancher slapped together decades ago.  We'll see. Stay tuned. 

-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: snave
Date Posted: 18 Aug. 2018 at 1:10am
jb you have had some great advice on your build. By all means get a Jeep going and meet us at the FCT!Great people and fantastic times. Getting out and enjoying your Jeep is a great way to think through what you want to end up with. Sue and I  are blessed that we still wheel with our family. Our little group has gotten quite a few folks into debt, I mean Jeeping. We used to tell people not to spend you money more than once, but let's face it, Jeeps are never really done. You sound like you've already got experience so that's a super start. When you get out with a group that fits your "style" you kind of get an idea of just how hard you want to play. Your Jeep build then begins to come into focus. Blurred but kinda out there. Once you get a feel for what you want to do, tire size plays a decent part in how you build your Jeep. Not just what you can climb, but your drivetrain, power needs, lift (if any) etc. Gearing numbers are cool to talk about, but they are tied directly to your tire size. Axle strength and brakes and steering go the same way. Rigs break do to driving technique and somewhat do tire size. Tri County Gear ran a pro crawler rig with 37's on a Dana 30 and did well. We've seen guys break Dana 60's on 35's. No hard and fast rules, depends on how hard you play. Roho was built on 31's with a Dana 30 in front, and a Dana 44 rear. Except for "belly clearance" it does great. For the 2020 Rubicon trip something bigger is likely. 
Well I like the rest of us in Flatty land look forward to your build and as Bridog said, Missouri is a far piece from you, but we would love to help. 
Hope to "See you in the dirt" soon.

Fuzz



-------------
Fuzz


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 18 Aug. 2018 at 1:54pm
Originally posted by snave snave wrote:

jb you have had some great advice on your build.

Yes I have, I’ve really appreciated all the good comments. Thanks for your post, we won’t make it to this year’s color tour but are looking forward to next year’s. You’re right about the builds, they never really end. I’m still thinking about Rancher, plus I found a 2A that’s already got some work done on it so we’re taking a look at it and keeping our eyes open for others as well. I’m still set on an L head build so that’s what we’re spending our time reading about. 


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 3:23pm

Speed Costs. How Slow Do You Want to Go?

 

I’ve spent the past week or so reading on the 2A Page about those awesome old Jeeps I watched in this year’s Rubicon and Moab videos that Jpet posted. Culminating last night with reading Rick G’s thread on the Rockeater gears he installed this spring.

 

I realize now that I wasn’t watching any old Jeeps in those videos.  They’re the Formula 1 Jeeps of the Flatfender Jeep rock crawler world!

 

And they’re not the only ones! There are others I’ve read about here that aren’t in the videos that are equally incredible.

 

I think it’s great that those guys are doing those builds.  Gives us all something to shoot for. But I don’t have the budget to build one of those machines so I’m going to have to be content with something a little less awesome. I’m okay with that.

 

I laughed out loud when I read Stan’s comments in Rick G’s thread:

 

Will non Rock Eaters still be able to hang out with you guys? Are you getting big Rock Eater Equipped stickers for your cowls so that we all know not to mess with you? Will there be a new class added called Locker Stockers are Last Year’s News?  If my transfer case still whines will you not let me play any rock crawling games, like all the other reindeer did with Rudolph? 

This is very concerning to me. Oilly won’t come play on the rocks with me. My Utah friend with a new Rubicon JK only bought it cuz he can take the doors off in the summer. He doesn’t want to endanger it by going on Chicken Corners with me. I may be left driving my rig to the local show and shine by myself where they will ridicule me for the little dent in the hood that I couldn’t quite get straight by running over it with my pickup, and for having too many shifter”

 

First of all, Grandpa’s Jeep is no slouch. It runs with the best of them. But I hear what you’re saying Stan! I’ll go to the show and shine with you!  You with your dented hood and custom paint job, me with the Rancher’s sawed off 2A body and cobbed on wooden pickup bed. Those show and shiners will be amazed.  Probably put us on the front row and hand us a trophy.



-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: Unkamonkey
Date Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 4:39pm
Just one dent? A few years ago I did all the body work on my 3B and while I was painting it I noticed that I missed a very small dent on the hood. I did not think it was worth my efforts to dig out all of the tools to fix it. That dent is still there. The thing looks like it did when it rolled out of the factory, It still has that dent...

-------------
uncamonkey


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 4:43pm
Did I write that? Wasn't I just full of it that day.
I think Rancher is pretty cool.
We poke fun at "Bubba" some here on the forum for the crazy things that he did, but I really think that Bubba was a genius. He found creative ways to keep these rigs rolling and doing the things that he need them to do.



-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: Unkamonkey
Date Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 5:14pm
Sometimes Bubba can do some good things. I bought the 3B and somebody had welded a piece of road grader blade to the front bumper. I've used it more than once. I had about lost the rear crossmember on the B so I tore all the remains off and built a new crossmember and a bumper out of 4 inch channel, I suppose I am bubba. I got the Commando and a person had made up a skid plate for the rear mounted gas tank. I have used it as well.

-------------
uncamonkey


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 26 Aug. 2018 at 4:13pm

I brought this home last night. It could be the Jeep I use for the Targhee build.  No engine, solid and rust free frame and body. Yes, I have the inner windshield. No title and the VIN plate is missing, so I'll be talking to the state VIN inspector this week to see if there's some way to get a title for it. 

Seller described it as a '48 CJ2A.  It has the following characteristics, which I've read are typical of a '48:  no bumper gussets, no evidence of frame horn VIN tag and no ACM number. Also, the rear wheel wells are 34" long and the tool box doesn't have a drip channel around it, so I'm pretty sure it's a 2A body.  Although it does a a 3A tailgate with the 4 slots.  The windshield block holes have been filled in and the roof bow brackets were removed at some point.



-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: RICKG
Date Posted: 26 Aug. 2018 at 4:34pm
Looks like a solid platform Jack..

-------------
I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52
'50 CJ3A "Bucksnort".
Keep 'em Rollin'


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 26 Aug. 2018 at 4:41pm
Originally posted by RICKG RICKG wrote:

Looks like a solid platform Jack..

Thanks Rick, it really is! The frame is straight, frame horns look perfect and it has a good draw bar on the back. Body is solid, no rust through anywhere, even the tool box floor is rust free. If I can't get a title for it it'll just join the pile of stuff my kids will have to figure out what to do with when I'm gone. LOL


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 27 Aug. 2018 at 6:23pm
I spoke with the VIN inspector this morning and it looks like we're going to be able to get a title for it. So it's time to start moving ahead.

The frame material looks to be 1/8" inch thick, so I'm thinking this is the later 3A style 11 gauge frame, I'm pleased with that.

I'm just a "bolt it together" guy, not a welder or fabricator.  But, I have a good friend who builds serious rock crawler vehicles.  He's an exceptional builder and is on board to help me out.  We talked last night and are putting our plan together.

First decision: springs?  I know there are about a million ways to go.  Everyone has their opinion. I read Mass2A's comments on using stock rear CJ2A springs or lifted rear springs all the way around. Extend and box in the front frame horns and adjust both spring hangers to keep the front axle in original position.  I like the way this sounds so I'm thinking that's the way I'll go on the springs. Just need to decide if they'll be stock or lifted. I'd be glad to hear some comments on that. 

Edit: I'm thinking that I'll either go with 32" Super Swamper TSL tires or 7.00 x 16 NDT.

Edit 2: We're also talking about installing taller shock towers for longer shocks to allow for the extra travel of the springs.  






-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 27 Aug. 2018 at 10:16pm
Hey Jack,
Sorry I missed you Saturday.
I'm glad you got the title thing sort of figured out.

Everything I know about offloading and jeeps I learned from Grampa's Jeep or from watching jpet and Bam Bam and others like bridog that I have been with, so take everything I say with a large grain of salt.
Jeff (jpet) has done extensive research and experimentation with springs  and lifts that will keep a flattie looking at least close to stock. In all the time we have jeeped together, through all the different things he has done and tried, I don't really remember him going anyplace that I couldn't go with my stock springs and suspension EXCEPT a sharp break over where I sometimes belly out and he makes it over. 
When you start increasing the spring travel you start to have issues with the short driveshafts that we have binding up. Jeff has gone to the CV type driveshafts and has had good luck with those.
Sometimes I see people get lifted springs which gets them up over things, but the springs end up being so stiff they get now flex out of their rig.

I really believe that one of the strengths, and at the same time weaknesses, of Grampa's Jeep is the stock spring set up. I'm pretty comfortable on off camber and very steep slopes because I know that my low center of gravity keeps me safe. At the same time, as stated above, my low belly sometimes gets me caught on things. I like the trade off. If my belly gets hung up, my friends can usually get me off with a little hand push, or sometimes a strap, but going over on your lid can kill you. Rather take a strap once in a while that break my neck.

Like I said, my experience is limited, but I sure love going places that people with 10s of thousands of dollars in their rigs think I don't belong.





-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 28 Aug. 2018 at 3:57am
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Hey Jack,
Sorry I missed you Saturday.
I'm glad you got the title thing sort of figured out.

Everything I know about offloading and jeeps I learned from Grampa's Jeep or from watching jpet and Bam Bam and others like bridog that I have been with, so take everything I say with a large grain of salt.

Stan, Sorry we missed each other too.  I got out of Sunset late and beat feet for home.

Of course, you know, you, Jeff, Rick G and the others are the reason that I now find myself in this new trouble I'm in. Wink  After watching you guys on the Rubicon this summer I decided I wanted to have some of that fun.  

All of your experiences carry weight and I value those opinions. I really like what you said about low c.g. and off camber conditions. That makes good sense to me. In fact I'm not all that comfortable on steep off camber stuff so more weight down low sounds good to me. 

I rented a storage unit this afternoon so I could make some space in the garage to get started on this project.  I'm sure I'll be coming back with more questions as I get further along.

 


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 29 Aug. 2018 at 7:02am


My wife's Tux has been moved into the storage unit and Targhee, AKA "The Red Rocker", is now in the garage.  After the VIN inspector comes by and checks it over, the tub will be coming off and we'll get started on the frame, axles, steering, etc.

As you can see, previous owners left us some great holes in the dash for a sound system. Rock on!


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: Unkamonkey
Date Posted: 29 Aug. 2018 at 9:03am
I'm sorry to say this but a lot of the people you deal with at the DMV are just idiots.

-------------
uncamonkey


Posted By: nivrat
Date Posted: 30 Aug. 2018 at 4:44am
Jack,
First, congrats on a nice project, and a very cool Tux!
Now onto the project.
You queried about whether springs should be considered first. You didn't mention (or maybe I missed it) whether you were going to bare frame and building up from there. If it were me, I would thoroughly check the frame first for any cracks, particularly around the crossmember, the front frame horns and all spring perches. But before any of that, if you're considering anything other than stock springs the very first thing I would do is take a marker and a plumb line and plumb your leaf spring bolts that hold the leaves together. This is particularly important for the rear springs. Plumb your line and mark the frame as a reference point in the event you change springs to a different length other than stock. The rear is critical because if you don't get the spring in the perfect position your tire is not going to center up in the wheel well, particularly during full compression as the axle will move rearward just a tad. Its not as critical in the front since the front fender is open in the front. Once you've done that then you can inspect for frame cracks and repair as needed.
You will want to know your stock spring lengths, and the distance center to center of your spring mounts.
I refer to the spring mounts as the pivot end and the shackle end.
You mentioned running rears on both ends. Consider that the rear springs are meant to carry more weight so they generally have more leaves. You might consider removing some leaves for the front if you decide to do that otherwise your front is going to be really stiff.
Ill stop for now; this should give you enough to think about for the moment.
Hope this is helpful,
Mike


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 30 Aug. 2018 at 5:58am
Originally posted by nivrat nivrat wrote:

Jack,
First, congrats on a nice project, and a very cool Tux!
Now onto the project.

Mike, thanks once again for your good comments. Very helpful. 

I talked with the vin inspector again today, he'll be here next week, sounds like things will go smoothly.

I actually just got back to the house a little while ago.  Had a good skull session with the friend who will be helping me on this build.  You and he are thinking a lot alike, we covered the same kinds of things you mentioned: clean and check frame, keep axles centered in stock position, etc. He likes the idea of using stock (no lift) rear springs on all 4 corners and also suggested taking out a leaf or two up front. Or maybe see if we could get the local spring shop to build a set of stock length springs with a softer spring rate combined with some slightly longer than stock shock absorbers for extra spring travel. 

He's accustomed to building full on rock crawlers, I'm accustomed to simply bolting stock stuff together. We've both agreed we need to meet somewhere in the middle. I think this build is going to be a blast. 


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 30 Aug. 2018 at 12:08pm
Jack, seeing your garage with all the stuff I like in it, makes me happy for you. As to crawling rocks with you, I will be glad to,  right up to the point of smashing and bending things so they need fixing and replacing before the next run. I'm tired of having to go back and fix stuff again. I too, have closely followed Stan and Jpet and I can tell you, those two are fun to watch. They and the Quassy 8's go places I never would have thought possible. I've modified my '48 CJ2A with front and rear lockrights, Rancho 1.5 inch lift 2 leaf springs, Koenig PTO winch, 11 inch Willys pickup brakes, Terra Flex low 18 gear set, and a Bruce approved 6 volt bull horn--LOL I can also air down or up now.  It can now go slow up or down hill with fantastic traction, stop on a dime, and do much more than a stock Willys, but still looks stock like Grampa's Jeep. I love it as my trail Jeep. 

Add the Black Hills Run to your schedule in the future. You can do both kinds of Jeeping here during the same week if desired. 

You can build your Jeep to do what you desire. Mild to wild. Blueberry, Bridog's Jeep , makes all types of Jeeping look easy. That family of Jeepers can guide you in your build and help advise you so you get it right the first time. All you have to do is decide where you want to end up at in ability. I've not met anyone in this arena that isn't a kind, patient , friend. Great bunch. Remember----We Have Miles To Jeep Before We Sleep! Thumbs Up


-------------
Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 30 Aug. 2018 at 1:54pm
Originally posted by Oilleaker1 Oilleaker1 wrote:

Jack, seeing your garage with all the stuff I like in it, makes me happy for you. As to crawling rocks with you, I will be glad to,  right up to the point of smashing and bending things so they need fixing and replacing before the next run. I'm tired of having to go back and fix stuff again.

John, yes, my garage has always been my little museum, the place I enjoy going out to work in or just sit and think great thoughts. And, I have to say, I am married to a wonderful woman who says "yes" to almost all of the crazy things I want to do.  And so she has embraced this rock crawler build and given it her blessing.  However, as she and I have talked about it, she has said the same things you've said here. "You mean you're going to build it up just to take it out and crash it? That's crazy!".  So out of respect and appreciation for her support I may have to approach this rock crawling stuff with some level of caution.  But I will definitely be out there and look forward to joining you and the others.  Black Hills sounds good.  I drove through there in the MG one beautiful fall day 47 years ago next month when the MG was shiny and new and I was on my way from duty station in NYC to duty station in L.A. I've enjoyed that area ever since.

The build has always been a big part of the fun for me.  I like the list of things you've done to yours.  Sounds a lot like what I've been thinking, somewhere between mild and wild. 

I've appreciated all the good comments and suggestions from the folks here and look forward to being out there with you and the others.   

Jack 






-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 01 Sep. 2018 at 4:04am
Made a little progress tonight.  Brought this home. R&P and axles turn. 




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 01 Sep. 2018 at 5:08pm
Mission Creep Has Begun!

I'm a simple guy and when I get into a project I tend to look for easy, low tech, inexpensive ways to do things.

The friend who is helping me is a knowledgeable and talented builder.  He is quickly pushing me out of my comfort zone as we consider the options for this little Jeep. 

Budget is always a concern and will be the final limiting factor.  But I really like his ideas.  

I'm going to be listing some things for sale to help fund all this. 

Stay tuned. 




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 02 Sep. 2018 at 3:56am
Dana 30 rebuild video series

I went looking for info on rebuilding the Dana 30 I brought home last night and found these.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5XVpU8F-Fzk" rel="nofollow - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5XVpU8F-Fzk


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 04 Sep. 2018 at 4:35pm
Tires: thinking outside the box

These look interesting to me. Definitely not stock appearance, but maybe good performance.

https://tensortire.com/blogs/news/jeep-willys-restoration-photos" rel="nofollow - https://tensortire.com/blogs/news/jeep-willys-restoration-photos


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 6:01pm
Targhee has a new VIN!

Idaho state inspector just left.  Good guy! He assigned a new VIN. I showed him all the evidence that it is a 1948 CJ2A. He was familiar with old Jeeps and agreed with me so the new title, in my name, identifies it as a 1948 CJ2A.  

I'm stoked! 

Body is coming off and frame work will now begin. 


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: RICKG
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 6:31pm
Originally posted by jbjeeps jbjeeps wrote:

Targhee has a new VIN!

Idaho state inspector just left.  Good guy! 
 
Buy that man a beer!Beer


-------------
I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52
'50 CJ3A "Bucksnort".
Keep 'em Rollin'


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 6:39pm
[/QUOTE]
 
Buy that man a beer!Beer
[/QUOTE]

Roger that!


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 5:00am
Tensor tires look good, but $300 apiece?  YOIKS!!


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 7:06am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Tensor tires look good, but $300 apiece?  YOIKS!!

They are a little spendy for sure.

Actually they're available through Discount Tire for $254, about the same price as the Narrow Super Swamper TSL.

These are 15" and can be mounted on a 4.5" wheel, 32" tall, can be aired down to 15 pounds, they look like they'd be pretty grippy, plus the sidewalls should give plenty of flex, and they only weigh 34 pounds. 15" narrow super swampers weigh 57 pounds.

Not saying I'm ready to buy them, but it's interesting to think about it.


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 3:07am
The website calls them "UTV tires".  Does that mean they aren't DOT legal and should not be driven on the road?


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 7:43am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

The website calls them "UTV tires".  Does that mean they aren't DOT legal and should not be driven on the road?

Info on Tensor DS tires says: "Competition Use Only, Not DOT Approved"

Their other tire, Regulator A/T, is DOT approved. 32x10x15 weighs 40 pounds, $227 at Discount Tire

It's getting closer to crunch time for me, need to make a decision on which tire to go with. It's a tight race, but currently I'm thinking:

1. Super Swamper
2. NDT
3. Something else


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 08 Sep. 2018 at 4:36am
Tub is off. PO chopped up the front crossmember and welded in homemade engine mounts and support for a different engine, so that will need to be repaired, but otherwise it looks pretty good to me. Original engine mounts are still intact, just covered with a bunch of very ugly weld.

And I have the tow bar that goes with those custom made brackets on that gorgeous front bumper, always handy for moving a project around.


When I started this project I was thinking about a 9/1/19 completion date. I've changed that to 6/1/19. Hoping to try it out during June and take it to the Rubicon sometime in July.


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 09 Sep. 2018 at 4:51pm
More power from the L Head?

I've got a pretty good plan in place for axles, trans and transfer, and we're moving forward in those areas so I've started thinking about the engine.

I've read the thread by 52 M38 back in November 2014 on the settings he used for his Weber 32/36. I've also read Mark W.'s suggestions for increased power including the use of this carb.

So, I'm looking for any further suggestions, criticisms, warnings, etc. for using this carb on my L head?  I'm planning to increase bore and shave the deck and head for increased compression. Mark W. talks about designing and building a Tri Y type header.  I will probably use the stock exhaust manifold.

TIA!

Jack




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 09 Sep. 2018 at 7:41pm
Jack,
I’m not an experienced engine guy, but ......
The first L head block I had was rusty in the cylinders. When the machine shop tried to punch it out one of the cylinder walls collapsed. Maybe it was cast a little thin in that spot, or maybe it was thinned by rust in the water jacket over the years. 
Anyway, don’t  want to tell you what to do, but I would not mess with the bore of one of these 70 year old blocks unless I really had to.


-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 09 Sep. 2018 at 11:17pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

The first L head block I had was rusty in the cylinders. When the machine shop tried to punch it out one of the cylinder walls collapsed.

Stan, Not good, sorry to hear it.  That is a concern and something we'll have to take a look at.  Thanks for mentioning it.




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 2:21pm

Ever since I pulled the tub off the other day, each time my wife, Lori, walks by this gunky trans and transfer she points at it and makes a hissing noise like a cat.  "Okay, okay, I can take a hint, I'll clean it off."  I actually enjoy this part of the project.  It's like discovering a hidden treasure or some long lost history.  "Jeep Archeology:  We Dig Old Jeeps"


J2182, I believe that translates to October 21, 1948, 2nd shift.  I think it's very likely that this is the original transmission and transfer case for this Jeep.


Looks good in there. Trans and transfer both shift well. I'm planning to use different trans and transfer, so these are spares.  Too good to throw in the pile, I'll find room on a shelf for them to be used in some future, yet unidentified, project.



-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 2:58pm
Buying the stuff and paying the bills

I'm trying to do this build with "old money", so I'm selling off things to do that.

So far I've sold:

1.  My complete inventory of NOS parts for Homelite XL12 and SXLAO chainsaws.  This was one of the largest inventories of it's kind in the nation and is now in the capable hands of a well respected Homelite collector.

2.  My Ford Louisville bobtail grain truck.  I've been using it to help a family member with his harvest but his operation has changed and we no longer needed this truck.  It is now at another farm and should continue to give them good service.

I had a serious buyer come by last night to look at the '45 GPW. He wants a project for he and his 80+ year old dad, a lifelong Jeep fan, to work on together. Hoping to hear back from him soon.

I advertised my T3C locally a while back, but then pulled the ad.  It is one of the cleanest trailers I've ever seen.  Someone put a military hitch on the front years ago. I'd really like to hang on to it, but parts for this build are being ordered and the total is going up quickly. We'll see . . .






-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 3:37pm
Good looking trailer there and I'd probably prefer the pintle hitch on a civvy trailer.
besides the pintle may be somewhat of a theft deturrent.
I know I'd sure wanna buy that if I had a way to get it back to Mo.
It will likely sell quick if you decide to let it go.





-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 3:53pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Good looking trailer there and I'd probably prefer the pintle hitch on a civvy trailer.
besides the pintle may be somewhat of a theft deturrent.
I know I'd sure wanna buy that if I had a way to get it back to Mo.
It will likely sell quick if you decide to let it go.

Thanks for the good comments, I'll keep your interest in mind.  Maybe we could do some trading. Smile

A guy bought a very nice GPW rolling frame from me a couple years ago.  It went to the St. Louis area.  I think he used this service to find a shipper. 

https://www.uship.com/vehicles/


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 8:45pm
"HELP FUND ME"

I've just listed a very nice "F" Script GPW pintle in the for sale section.  Take a look. As I've mentioned before, I have a few things to sell to help me fund my Targhee build.


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 2:23am
Did you list the pintle hook on G503.com?


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 13 Sep. 2018 at 11:56am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Did you list the pintle hook on G503.com?

I watched the '45 go down the road with his new owner last night. Cry Feeling some sellers remorse. If the hook doesn't sell here I may just keep it. 


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: Oilleaker1
Date Posted: 13 Sep. 2018 at 12:34pm
If you are serious about doing the Rubicon, then I'd be planning a rock crawler that can withstand lots of body hits and new frame design. A stock Willys takes quite a beating on that trail. I think you have watched Stan and Jpet's two ventures there. No one came out of there without damage. (except Blueberry) A 6 point roll cage would be smart also. Holy Cross, Chinaman's Gulch, Carnage canyon, Hal John's, Kong, all will hammer you. 

My son built a CJ5 to do this. He lifted it, scout 2 differentials, Hydraulic fork lift steering, heavy wall tubing, super swampers, fuel injected Chevy V8 with the SM420 short transmission, long coil springs and shocks, bobbed fenders and no bumpers or extended crossmembers, rock sliders on the body, on and on. He told me he did Kong in 22 minutes with it. I can't even walk it-------LOL. Anyway he doesn't go crawling anymore since he needs to pour more money into it to get it back up and going. He seems to break things each trip. Rough and tough sport. I got tired of breaking and fixing Jeeps clear back in high school. i still enjoy watching though! LOL


-------------
Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 14 Sep. 2018 at 12:59am
Originally posted by Oilleaker1 Oilleaker1 wrote:

If you are serious about doing the Rubicon, then I'd be planning a rock crawler that can withstand lots of body hits and new frame design. A stock Willys takes quite a beating on that trail. I think you have watched Stan and Jpet's two ventures there. No one came out of there without damage. (except Blueberry) A 6 point roll cage would be smart also.

John, thanks once again for your good comments, as always I appreciate your thoughtful replies.

I started out calling this a Moab/Rubicon build, and it still is, but as I've watched and rewatched the videos, read and reread posts and thought more about it I have begun to focus more on the Rubicon.  I'd still like to go to Moab, but the Rubicon is slowly evolving into the build goal. It's not a "bucket list" thing or anything like that, it just looks like something I'd like to do.

I am definitely coming late to this game and have a bunch to learn.  But as I watch, listen and read I am slowly developing my idea for what an old flatfender needs for the Rubicon.  Budget will prevent me from doing all of them, but I hope to do enough so that I can safely and reliably drive that trail.  A well built 6 point cage is at the top of the list.

Some parts are already here, some are enroute and some decisions I haven't made yet. I will always be grateful for well intended comments. Stay tuned!  Jack






-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 3:51pm
We've been having fun with family visitors this week and still waiting for parts, so not much progress to report.  According to tracking info the rear axle is now about 100 miles away at a depot, estimated delivery is 9/19.  

Here's the front D30 and two L heads, the one in the back is on the floor and hard to see, along with my two Banshees, Time Machine and Shee Bee.  As always, space is limited so things get packed in pretty tight! 



-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 18 Sep. 2018 at 4:59am
The rear axle arrived today, a couple days earlier than anticipated. D44, 30 spline, flanged from a '70-71 CJ. 

The parts for the front axle should be here in a day or two so we may be able to start working on it this weekend.  We'll order the parts for the rear axle after we get a chance to look it over.




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 19 Sep. 2018 at 1:42pm
A Question about Axles?

I decided to buy these axles for the front.  The front axle was a "spring over" at some point in the past so I made the assumption that it probably had big tires and the axles may have been overworked. 

http://www.nitro-gear.com/Dana-30-4340-Chromoly-Nitro-Front-Axle-Kit-p/axn24106.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.nitro-gear.com/Dana-30-4340-Chromoly-Nitro-Front-Axle-Kit-p/axn24106.htm

So now I'm thinking about the rear axle.  I have no information of it's previous use.  I'd sure like to use the current axles if possible and save that $$ for other project expenses. 

But, I'll buy new axles if the current ones pose a serious reliability risk.

Anyone have an opinion?  Are the stock 30 spline axles stout enough that I could risk using them instead of buying new ones? 

I'll be putting a Yukon Grizzly locker with 5.38 gears in the axle.

I know there are no guarantees, just looking for some conversation on this topic.  Thanks!  Jack


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 19 Sep. 2018 at 4:22pm
Both your front and the rear axles  axles in original stock condition should easily hold up to a V-6 if not abused.
Does your flanged D44 offset rear have 3.73 or a 4.89 ratio ?

Factory 4.89 gear sets are an excellent off road ratio for most.
But 5.38's will be better if you plan on a Willys 134 engine.
DS never put 5.38's in a D30; so the front will need be aftermarket if installing 5.38 gears.

You can look at your 30 spline shafts and easily determine if the splines were ever twisted.
Also note the amount of visible wear on the splines themselves....


-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 19 Sep. 2018 at 5:30pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Both your front and the rear axles  axles in original stock condition should easily hold up to a V-6 if not abused.
Does your flanged D44 offset rear have 3.73 or a 4.89 ratio ?

Factory 4.89 gear sets are an excellent off road ratio for most.
But 5.38's will be better if you plan on a Willys 134 engine.
DS never put 5.38's in a D30; so the front will need be aftermarket if installing 5.38 gears.

You can look at your 30 spline shafts and easily determine if the splines were ever twisted.
Also note the amount of visible wear on the splines themselves....

Oldtime, thanks for the good reply.  That's the kind of info I was looking for.

The D44 currently has 4.89 gears, still planning to use the L134, so both axles will be 5.38

I've ordered the Yukon YG D30-538 ring and pinion for the front axle.


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 20 Sep. 2018 at 2:57am
Parts pile is growing.  With some luck we may get to do some actual work on something this weekend.



-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 20 Sep. 2018 at 4:01pm
Springs

I have been watching the videos to see how different Jeeps react on the trails, reading many different threads, and yes, waking up in the middle of the night wondering what I'm going to do for springs.

Then, this morning, I read these comments by Rick G. from October 2017, and now I THINK I have a plan:

Originally posted by Wilson49CJ2a Wilson49CJ2a wrote:

Is there a recommended ~2" lift kit & source for these jeeps? I've found a rancho kit and superlift kit but was hoping for some real world feedback on how they ride/flex/hold up. Was wondering about a replacement OEM pack with a shackle lift.

I was initially planning high steer knuckles for the D30 and a Saginaw conversion, but that was when I was thinking about a larger lift. Trying to understand what the 2" springs will do to the geometry. Any tips and experiences would be greatly appreciated. 

I'll chime in here with real world experience...

I bought a turn-key aftermarket 3.5" leaf spring lift kit about 5 years ago. They are Black Diamond.  I added some Daystar, 1/2" lift, H shackles to round out my suspension upgrade.  I have about 4" of overall lift.  I'm running 34" narrow super swampers, so I kinda need that much lift with these tires.  Problem is the springs do not bend or flex under the light weight of a Willys flatfender. 

After much research and talk with local spring makers, I found out that the commercial, mass produced leaf springs are made of a much thicker spring steel (rather than multiple thin ones) to cut manufacturing costs.  However, fewer, but thicker springs means no flex for our type application.  All my jeeping buddies here on the page, as well as my videos, can attest to the fact that ol' Gus doesn't flex.  None. Zero.  Pretty scary sometimes.  Hopefully, I will be working with a local spring maker this winter to cure my spring problems.  Most likely, a complete set of custom springs.

I highly advise going to a local leaf spring maker, tell him what you want to accomplish, show him your jeep, and let him build a set of springs for you.  I would NOT purchase a set of commercial leaf springs ever again, because it isn't "one size fits all" for the flatfenders.  It cost me a ton of money to find this out.

As far as the geometry goes, I don't have a problem with the 4" lift and original D25.  I built a custom steering system based on the saginaw box up front with 1" heavy wall pipe for the tie rod and drag link.  I used a straight pitman arm rather than a "drop" and everything is still parallel.  No issues with it so far.

HTH,
Rick

Thanks Rick, just the info I needed!

Here's what I THINK I'm going to do.  As always, I'll be glad to hear comments or recommendations.

1. Put the D30 and D44 axles on the current springs.
2. Put the wheels and tires I'm going to use on. At this point I'm planning on 34" Narrow Super Swampers on stock 5" wheels,  but that could change.
3. Put in an engine.
4. Put the tub back on.
5. Take the Jeep over to Boise Spring Works in Boise and talk to them about building a set of springs made from thin leaves.
6. I want four springs the length of the stock rear 2A springs, 42", we'll modify the front frame to accommodate the longer front springs. I'm thinking I'll keep the front axle in it's original position.

So, what do you all think?  Does this sound like a good way to go? TIA for all good comments and/or suggestions.  Jack


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 2:05am
Jack, looks like most every one is at the FCT. 
I'll  try and keep this conversation going.  Ha Ha!

Good suspension alone certainly will not make nor break the Jeep.
Many jeeps with relatively poor suspension systems do perform rather well via other apparently more important features.

That said, a good suspension system can certainly smooth the ride and thereby put much less stress upon the frame. 
Beyond that some increase of traction can be had by way of more tire contact upon the ground.

Myself, I am an advocate of multiple thin leaves making up the spring pack.
having many thin leaves makes for a decrease of fatigue and an increase toward durability.
In fact I think these jeeps ride and handle rather nicely when sporting correctly rebuilt original Mather spring packs.

That said the spring load is important in that it must attain full flex under normal payload.
And so I consider it very important to take full advantage of the stock travel.
In other words the axle tube needs to stuff fully upward until it hits the axle bumper.
Many stockish Jeep springs do not make full use of the standard  travel.
They simply do not travel from full droop to full stuff.
As you know the axle bumper normally limits the stuff and the shocks typically limit the droop.

Except for increasing of the standard tire diameter I am not a fan of lifting the Jeep any higher from standard.
Note that Grampa's jeep does rather well at stock ride height.

Yes IMHO 34" NSS is certainly pushing the limits for a flatty.
But even at stock ride height with rear axle at full stuff the 34" NSS tires do not rub the top of the wheel house.
They will clear by at least 1" with stock suspension at full stuff. 
So that  alone implies no need to increase body  lift.

However the 34" NSS tires will certainly rub on the rear inner fender panels when stuffed upward because of the articulation
There is no easy cure for that sidewall contact excepting a change of axle width or wheel set.
This basically amounts to a small increase of  track width.
If you go any wider on track width then the 34" tire gets into the 31" wheel well diameter.

Concerning spring length you might consider running the stock CJ-5 spring lengths.
46-1/8" at rear and 39-5/8" at front.
No need to change the OAL of the flatty frame.
Just move the shackle brackets out to the very end of the frame rails.
And relocate the spring pivot bracket holes an equal distance the other way.
That way the wheelbase remains constant with no change to the standard propeller shafts.
And stock type springs having no offset will be far easier to source and replace if need be.



-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: Unkamonkey
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 2:40am
Lowering your air pressure will also improve your ride. A friends son drove his F350 out to Moab with 85 lbs in his tires. He complained about the rough ride. "Well that is what it says on the side wall". No, Daniel, that is the maximum inflation pressure you can inflate it to. Look on your door or the door pillar, It will tell you what to run. I handed him a gauge and told him to let at least 30 PSI out of his tires. He said that it rode much better after that.
A member read that I used to do tires. He wanted me to talk about them. I just did a small bit.

-------------
uncamonkey


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 2:17pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Jack, looks like most every one is at the FCT. 
I'll  try and keep this conversation going.  Ha Ha!



Myself, I am an advocate of multiple thin leaves making up the spring pack.
having many thin leaves makes for a decrease of fatigue and an increase toward durability.
In fact I think these jeeps ride and handle rather nicely when sporting correctly rebuilt original Mather spring packs.



Concerning spring length you might consider running the stock CJ-5 spring lengths.
46-1/8" at rear and 39-5/8" at front.
No need to change the OAL of the flatty frame.
Just move the shackle brackets out to the very end of the frame rails.
And relocate the spring pivot bracket holes an equal distance the other way.
That way the wheelbase remains constant with no change to the standard propeller shafts.
And stock type springs having no offset will be far easier to source and replace if need be.


Ha! I hope those guys are having a good time at FCT.  We've got some nice colors around here, I might go out this weekend and do my own FCT.

Thank you for that great reply. 

Your recommendation to use CJ5 length springs makes good sense to me.  I like not having to extend the frame length and using stock length propeller shafts. 

Are there any CJ5 springs currently on the market that would work, or should I still consider going to a spring shop to have some built? 

Edit:  Or, you mentioned correctly rebuilt Mather spring packs, maybe I should keep an eye out for some of them. How do I identify them?


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 3:00pm
Hey Jack,
I can't vouch for fit or quality, but I buy tons of stuff from Walks and they always treat me right. Also don't know how the price compares to what your spring shop could do for you.

https://walcks4wd.com/spring-assembly-rear-9-leaf-us.html" rel="nofollow - https://walcks4wd.com/spring-assembly-rear-9-leaf-us.html

https://walcks4wd.com/spring-assembly-front-10-leaf.html" rel="nofollow - https://walcks4wd.com/spring-assembly-front-10-leaf.html


-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 3:09pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Hey Jack,
I can't vouch for fit or quality, but I buy tons of stuff from Walks and they always treat me right. Also don't know how the price compares to what your spring shop could do for you.

https://walcks4wd.com/spring-assembly-rear-9-leaf-us.html" rel="nofollow - https://walcks4wd.com/spring-assembly-rear-9-leaf-us.html

https://walcks4wd.com/spring-assembly-front-10-leaf.html" rel="nofollow - https://walcks4wd.com/spring-assembly-front-10-leaf.html

Stan,

Thanks for mentioning Walcks, I've been buying from them for years.  Just talked to Carl yesterday and ordered a replacement front cross member for the frame. 

If current springs on the market would work, I'd like to go that way, or find a set of Mather springs to rebuild.  If I have to take Targhee over to Boise and have them do the work I'm sure it'll cost quite a bit more. Not to mention travel expenses.  


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 4:12pm
Originally posted by Unkamonkey Unkamonkey wrote:

Lowering your air pressure will also improve your ride. A friends son drove his F350 out to Moab with 85 lbs in his tires. He complained about the rough ride. "Well that is what it says on the side wall".

That's hilarious! Must have felt like a buckboard. You surely helped him out with your advice.  


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 4:16pm
Mathers were rather common on the 80" wheelbase flatties. 
So those will be 42" at rear and 36-1/4" up front.
They are the original springs having the  trapezoid  cross section.
I did  a write up a few years back on rebuilding them and can possibly find that post if your interested.

If you want longer springs then the stock length CJ-5/6 springs can be a good fit with some frame bracket work.
The CJ-5's used some Mathers but most I've seen were Eaton springs. 
Overall I don't like the Eaton springs. 
I think they were over hardened to the point of being brittle as in "CRACK".
Further more the Eatons center channel always collects water thereby allowing the spring to quickly rust away.
On the plus side the Eatons typically were of desirable 2 stage design.

The CJ-5 rear spring assemblies will be 4-1/8" longer than a flatty at 42".
So you move the rear shackle bracket rear ward about 2-1/16". 
Move the rear pivot bracket hole toward center another 2-1/16".
https://www.bing.com/search?q=site%3Aearlycj5.com+factory+replacement+springs" rel="nofollow - -
So you move the front shackle bracket foreward about 1-11/16"". 
Move the front pivot bracket hole toward center another 1-11/16"".
Be sure to check the frame and all spring brackets for square.

If you go with CJ-5 springs you will also want CJ-5 length shocks.

Here's is a link to ECJ-5 springs.
Let us know what you discover from that.
https://www.bing.com/search?q=site%3Aearlycj5.com+factory+replacement+springs" rel="nofollow - site%3Aearlycj5.com factory replacement springs - Bing


-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: nivrat
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 4:28pm
I can echo Oldtime's sentiments regarding using CJ5 springs. The extra length adds to both flex and ride, IMHO.
Check out a cool vid that Jpet did last year on the FFFR in Moab.

  https://youtu.be/AlVNqYc3N38" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/AlVNqYc3N38

If you go to about the 17 minute mark you will see my Jeep with CJ5 springs flexing a bit.
The one thing I did different though is that I left the front spring pivot in the stock location and allowed the extra length of the front spring to provide around a 1-2" stretch, moving the axle forward by that amount. I knew I was going to mount a power steering box and change the front bumper anyway so it worked out well.
FWIW,
Mike


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 4:46pm
Nivrat,  
Are you running with standard front propeller shaft?
And did the front stretch  create any problems  with propeller shaft length ?

What brand of CJ5 springs did you go with ?
I'm guessing Skyjackers or BDS to be the best aftermarket springs for a CJ-5.

Your Jeep looks great !


-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: nivrat
Date Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 11:16pm
Ken,
No I had to modify the driveshafts since I'm running an even fire Buick V6 with an SM420/D18.
I don't recall my front shaft length but if I remember correctly my rear driveshaft is around 17" and nearly flat. I used factory early CJ5 springs, mainly because I had some laying around. Aftermarket springs have thicker leaves to maintain the arch that they put in them. I was looking for a little longer spring with more leaves that were thinner, and I did't want a lifted spring. I also used CJ5 body mount bushings instead of the little flat rubber pieces that were common in the Willys Jeeps. They are 1" thick and create a bit of body lift over the stock pieces. With the stock springs and the body mount bushings I'm able to run 33" tires on 8" rims.
Thanks for the kind wordsSmile

Mike


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 1:43am
Originally posted by nivrat nivrat wrote:

I can echo Oldtime's sentiments regarding using CJ5 springs. The extra length adds to both flex and ride, IMHO.
Check out a cool vid that Jpet did last year on the FFFR in Moab.
Mike

Mike, very cool video, thanks for sharing it!  Good looking Jeep with nice suspension travel. 

You and Oldtime are making my life a whole lot easier these days! Wink  I really like what you've both said about the CJ5 springs.  It looks like that's what I'll be doing. I can see that stock spring packs will work but I may contact some of the spring makers to see if they can make up some springs with thinner leaves. 


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 1:53am
Did some actual work today!

My good friend Eric is my mentor, spiritual adviser and tool guy extraordinaire on this build.  We took the D30 over to his place today (a good 75 yards across and down the street from my house) and made great progress on it.  Still have to do the ball joints and brakes but I'm pleased with what we got done today.

Went with Nitro chomoloy axles, the stock axles and ujoints looked okay, but I feel better with the new ones in there.  The stock ones will make good spares.

P.S. No, I'm not doing a spring over, previous owner did that. 





-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 2:33am
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Here's is a link to ECJ-5 springs.
Let us know what you discover from that.
https://www.bing.com/search?q=site%3Aearlycj5.com+factory+replacement+springs" rel="nofollow - site%3Aearlycj5.com factory replacement springs - Bing

Thanks for the measurements and the link.  I see that Alcan in Grand Junction is mentioned in one of those threads.  I think I'll give them a call and see what they can tell me.  Probably expensive?! But it doesn't hurt to check.

I'm also thinking about my wife's Tux.  It has nice stock springs under it.  Maybe I'll buy some new springs and swap her.  Shhh, don't tell. LOL


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: Nothing Special
Date Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 2:54am
I couldn't find where you said what diff you were going with in the front.  From the pics I'm assuming a Yukon Grizzly (which is what you said you planned for the rear).  Is that correct?

-------------
Bob

Flatfender wannabe
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/nothing-specials-71-bronco_topic42024_post411994.html?KW=#411994" rel="nofollow - '71 Ford Bronco


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 2:58am
Originally posted by Nothing Special Nothing Special wrote:

I couldn't find where you said what diff you were going with in the front.  From the pics I'm assuming a Yukon Grizzly (which is what you said you planned for the rear).  Is that correct?

Yes, Yukon Grizzly front and rear.


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 4:04pm
I've sent an inquiry to Alcan Springs in Grand Junction, CO regarding a set of CJ5 length springs with thinner leaves for my 2A.  I'll let you all know what I find out when I hear back from them.

  http://www.alcanspring.com/index.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.alcanspring.com/index.htm


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 4:38pm
This appears to be a 1972-1973 narrow track 
It does not have the post 1975 carrier snubber and it has 1972-1973 non finned drums.
Would have been std with 3.73 and optional was 4.27 ratio




-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts



Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 6:59pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

This appears to be a 1972-1973 narrow track 
It does not have the post 1975 carrier snubber and it has 1972-1973 non finned drums.
Would have been std with 3.73 and optional was 4.27 ratio

Yes,seller told me the front axle came out from under a '72 Commando. Yes, it had 3.73 gears. We put the Yukon 5.38 gear set and Yukon Grizzly locker in it yesterday. 

Anyone need a 3.73 gear set with carrier?


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 23 Sep. 2018 at 5:12pm
Lots to Learn

This rock crawling stuff is all pretty new to me.  New equipment, new skills, a whole new culture.  I'm enjoying learning more about all of it.

I pre-registered this morning on the Red Rock 4 Wheelers website and have been looking around there, reading their online magazine, etc.

Targhee will not be ready for the 2019 EJS, but I'm hoping to get down there next fall when the temps drop off a bit.




-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 23 Sep. 2018 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by jbjeeps jbjeeps wrote:


Targhee will not be ready for the 2019 EJS, but I'm hoping to get down there next fall when the temps drop off a bit.



I’m usually good for a run to Moab most weekends.  When you’re ready, let’s go.


-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: nofender
Date Posted: 23 Sep. 2018 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Originally posted by jbjeeps jbjeeps wrote:


Targhee will not be ready for the 2019 EJS, but I'm hoping to get down there next fall when the temps drop off a bit.



I’m usually good for a run to Moab most weekends.  When you’re ready, let’s go.

I'm insanely jealous of you guys. 

Living out here in the east is for the birds! 


-------------
46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819
46 Bantam T3c "4366"
47 Bantam T3C - 11800
68-ish CJ5


Posted By: jbjeeps
Date Posted: 23 Sep. 2018 at 8:54pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

I’m usually good for a run to Moab most weekends.  When you’re ready, let’s go.

Thanks Stan, I look forward to it!

One thing I'm noticing, there appears to be a "uniform of the day" hat that many of you wear. I guess I'll have to put that on the list. Wink


-------------
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net