Print Page | Close Window

New in Washington state

Printed From: The CJ2A Page
Category: CJ-2A Discussion Area
Forum Name: Your Jeep Project
Forum Description: Show everyone progress on your jeep!
URL: https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=43185
Printed Date: 29 Mar. 2024 at 7:05am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: New in Washington state
Posted By: Mike F
Subject: New in Washington state
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 5:56am
hi ya'll. New here. Names Michael from SW Washington. And if I've figured it out this here is my Willys. 



Replies:
Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 5:58am
well I don't quite have the hang of it.  Yet. Gimme time


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 6:11am
Welcome! I'm about an hour west from you in Astoria OR.


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 6:21am
road thu there last Sunday.  Both ways.  


Posted By: mbullism
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 11:35am
welcome, Mike! Thumbs Up

-------------
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 2:59pm
Hey Michael,
Nice looking rig!
Welcome to the forum.


-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 3:03pm
thanks to all. It's titled as a 55.  Was told it's a 49. Look good in a picture. 


Posted By: mikec4193
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 7:13pm
Hi Mike

Love the looks of your hot rod...color is nice too...the radial tires look spot on...welcome to the craziness...

MikeC


-------------
I am the squirrel....


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 8:13pm
thanks MikeC. It’s a pretty good 20 footer
Running gear need some tlc. But it runs and and I can drive it


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 5:04am
M-38 windshield frame.  Is that front bumper on upside-down?


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 7:52am
Mike a great contact for you in SW Washington is Richard Darr at Washougal Classic Jeep he has used parts new parts is the source of rebuilt transmissions/Transfer cases for a couple of the BIG Willys parts dealers. He handled the machine work on my engine (he has some secret machine shop do the work extremely reasonable price. And he is a great guy.

You can find him on Face Book or at 360-513-9824 tell him Mark from Silverton recommended him.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 4:18pm
Good to know.  I had heard of him.  lucky to be so close to guys like him and Herm the OD guy.


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 5:12pm
LOL, Maybe  there's a few things on her that are just wrong.  I have seen the term Bubba thrown around.  Kinda fits.
On myself, Dad had a jeep back I the 60's when I was a kid.  it was a ford that a sheet metal guy built a body for.  As a 8 or 9 year old I really wanted to drive it.  All I could do was mess with it. I wasn't supposed to be messing with it.  I recall having the front end jacked up in the garage one day.  I guess learning how use a jack.  I had it up there a ways but couldn't figure out how to get it back down.  Running out of time, if figure I would just push the start button and it would fall off the jack.  it did and kept going through the garage door.   It was sold off soon after before I could reach the pedals.  probably for my own safety.  No problem I would get me one when I grew up.  Fast forward some 50 years and here we are.
 
The Jeep.  The story goes that she came off a ranch in Rancho Cucamonga.  It wasn't titled until 55.  I don't know how long the PO had it but it looks like it went through a cleaning up and in the 70's maybe.  The PO passed 15 years ago and she sat ignored in a barn for a long while.  the PO's got her out and running.  New tank, Carb, Brakes, Steering, some wiring, etc.  Said He was going to restore her and his wife came down with some heath problems.  A wad of cash and 12 hours of driving with a borrowed trailer and now its mine.
 
I start digging in to it when I get it home and nearly everything that makes it go needs attention. Brakes work in that it will stop.  but after looking over some other things they need to be pulled apart.
 
The engine kind of runs.  pulling the dip stick the inside of the filler tube shows signs of water.  tests indicate its not from the cooling system.  reading the manual I got it turns out there is supposed to be a PCV valve.  according to the manual I would see the water signs I do with out it.  While going through this I took a compression test and its a solid 60 psi.  So, Its running as well as can be expected.  Better really.  While I'm looking into rebuilding this Henry J Supersonic shows up on CL.  the price is to high.  Couple weeks later it's less.  then its even less.  Long story short I bought it for even less.  it's story is that it had been rebuilt long ago and never run.  The guys dad was a HJ racer back in the day.  You pull the 134 out of a HJ and stick in 400 HP then you got something that'll keep up.  Dad had picked it up as a spare for a car he bought 20 years ago.  New the guy that built it, swore it was good.  I get it home and pull the head.  0.020 over outside of a little bloom from sitting for 20 years looks good.  Valves are new.  I'll pull it apart and look over the bearings build it back up and the Willys will have a new heart. 
 


Posted By: Unkamonkey
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 6:54pm
It's your Jeep but don't get too crazy with the engine. I have driven a few that had too much under the hood. On one Jeep I had to rebuild the transmission twice and the rear axle once (not mine). If you want to get silly during WWII some guys put an Allison V12 in a Jeep. Talk about overkill.

-------------
uncamonkey


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 7:07pm
Must have not been clear the new motor is a Henry J L134 Kaiser Supersonic.  Or, at least the block is.  Head is a Willys that Someone has removed The J in Jeep and milled the head to Supersonic spec.  The 400 HP was what was put in the Henry J for racing.
I'm with you on flat fender HP.  To much is not a good thing.


Posted By: leecarr
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 11:04pm
Love the seats, my engine is a 52 Henry J super sonic. 


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 11:26pm
Soft leather, tuck & roll.  They are a little nice for the intended use.  I need to find a head for it to complete the Supersonic package.  Right now its just got the supersonic tag on the block.  you can get those on eBay.


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 2:00am
if the slots are for a license plate I would say yes it is. Thanks for pointing that out


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 3:21am
Yeah, the license plate mounting slots should be up and on the passenger side.  However, for that frame, the front bumper is supposed to be riveted on, or so I have read.  It's your Jeep, do what works for you.


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: Bruce W
Date Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 5:40am
I have the same bumper on my CJ3B. It came off of a CJ5 and upside-down is the only way it fits the B.LOL   BW

-------------
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 6:00am
right now I have a lot of things to fix
New exhaust gets here tomorrow then
1. The engine
2. Trans & TC
3. Both axles
4. Drive shafts
5. Tires
Then drive it.  A lot
I think I'll just mount the license plate by the lower holes and call it good.

Oh and the Harrison heaters I found I'm PA will be here next week ( I believe I am now officially a patron of UPS).  And winters coming.   


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 6:02am
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

right now I have a lot of things to fix
New exhaust gets here tomorrow then
1. The engine
2. Trans & TC
3. Both axles
4. Drive shafts
5. Tires
Then drive it.  A lot
I think I'll just mount the license plate by the lower holes and call it good.

Oh and the Harrison heaters I found in PA will be here next week ( I believe I am now officially a patron of UPS).  And winters coming.   


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 08 Sep. 2018 at 5:32pm



Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 08 Sep. 2018 at 5:36pm
gonna get this on the engine stand today and pull it apart. If things check out it will go in 


Posted By: WeeWilly
Date Posted: 08 Sep. 2018 at 5:55pm
  Good luck, I just installed  a M38 in my 47 that was supposed to be a good motor to find out that is leaks oil at the rear main seal and smokes.  Used about a pint  of oil in 25 miles. I am going to run it until I put a new crank shaft in the motor I took out. I should have at least changed the rear seal before I changed motors.

    Jim


-------------
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 08 Sep. 2018 at 11:28pm
Sorry to hear that but that’s why this one is coming apart. I have enough trouble finding time to work on the Jeep. Doing things twice takes to long. It was supposed to have been rebuilt 20 years ago and was never used. Looking at the bores that seems to be the case. However, siting in a garage for that long hasn’t done it any good. As well I imagine any assembly line used would have dried up by now. Becoming lord knows what. Not to mention the seals. 


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 09 Sep. 2018 at 4:27am
got the pan off now I know what 20+ year old oil becomes. Pressure plate was BW rebuilt, clutch plate was new, flywheel was new. They got enough moisture over the years to bloom rust pretty good. Clutch plate was rust bonded to the flywheel. They might clean up. Lower cylinders, cam, and valves look new. I’ll pull some caps tomorrow and look at the crank journals. If they look good I’ll check bearing clearancesand put it back together.

What are thoughts on hardened valve seats and springs that have been compressed for a long time. 


Posted By: Unkamonkey
Date Posted: 09 Sep. 2018 at 6:07am
Just keep going, you know I will be reading what you post.

-------------
uncamonkey


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 2:39am
I was a little concerned when I started.  I was taking out dirty bolts that had been painted
Then when I took the timing cover off. Notice anything missing.

But in the end things look pretty good

The crankshaft has a pretty good polish

Except where the seal runs looks like the seal and shaft bonded during their time together. and the cylinders will clean up

Got some cleaning to do, run a hone down the cylinders, wait for some parts, and put this thing back together.  Looks like it'll make a decent motor.
Gotta figure out how to get the green paint off.  No reason to have an ugly green motor.  If it was OD I'd leave it.  


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 2:56am
I am a little concerned about the rods.

The ones on the left look a little pitted


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 3:03am
I looked at the bumper and yes you are right it’s upside down. The frame has one hole on top and two on the bottom. So does the bumper. If you turn it over. 


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 2:04am
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

Notice anything missing.


Something to hold the cam gear on, maybe?


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 5:05am
yea I didn’t think they were optional


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 29 Sep. 2018 at 3:59am
Well since my last post I’ve installed my pre-torn and professionally repaired Kayline soft top. Went alright would have been better with the right parts and instructions. I still need to figure out the straps. Snap kit came today so I can make them up. 

And I’ve been working on the replacement motor. I’ve got the large parts cleaned up. Got through my questioning on balancing. Lightly honed the cylinders. Did a little polishing on the crank and cam.
And I figured out that I need to turn the phone sideways to get the picture to come out right. Tonight I set the crank in the new bearings with some plasigage. Gage says I have .002 clearance .001 radially book says .0003 to .0029. So if I’m reading things right. I’m good to go. 


Tomorrow I’ll balance the rods (should be able to bring them to within a gram. Check ring gaps and clearances and they are ready to go in. New valve springs get here tomorrow. Sunday I should be able to get most if not all of this put back together. I guess that’s if USPS can get the camshaft washer here from Yuma AZ in time. I was checking on shipping the motor nofender has for sale when I found one. Then Lee(MN) offered one up thanks again Lee

MDF


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 29 Sep. 2018 at 4:36am
Does your Kayline top have the snaps on the front top bow so you can unzip the back window and snap it to the bow rather than rolling it up?


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 29 Sep. 2018 at 5:43am
I think so. Is that what those are for. Just went out in the dark to check. Yep they are there. Also has straps to roll it ip


Posted By: mike in oregon
Date Posted: 29 Sep. 2018 at 2:17pm
Hello Mike and welcome to the madness. Great looking jeep.  When you get that thing up and runin You will have to come down here to Oregon for the Spring Fling we have every year.

-------------
MIKE IN OREGON
President of Oregon Flat Fender Club.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Oregon-Flat-Fender-Club/222864787838570

46 CJ2A 38007
46 CJ2A 79863
BANTAM T3-C 25314


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 29 Sep. 2018 at 3:09pm
I will do that. Just when and where is this spring fling thing.


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 29 Sep. 2018 at 6:04pm
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

I think so. Is that what those are for. Just went out in the dark to check. Yep they are there. Also has straps to roll it ip


I stopped using the straps after I acquired the snaps for the top bow.  I don't like the scratches the straps put on the window.


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 01 Oct. 2018 at 2:28am
Decided to change the color. Spent a day removing green paint and applying blue paint. So today I started putting things together. Got the tappets in and the cam. Clearance looks to be .005. Went on the the crank. Started looking into installing the rear main seal. Seems the best bet is a rope seal.  Of course I have a lip seal. I don’t own anything that doesn’t leak oil but I’d like to. I decided to order a Best rope seal so putting the crank in is on hold until probably Wednesday. So I went on to getting the valve hardware ready. I said to myself. Self you need to watch out or you’ll lose one of them valve lock things. And you’ll never find it. Turned out to be one of them self fulfilling prophecy’s.  So a couple hours later after things were all cleaned up I quit looking for it.  This where I ended the weekend


tomorrow I’ll look into the oil pump. Was hoping to have this engine ready to swap in next weekend. Might still make it. 


Posted By: Unkamonkey
Date Posted: 01 Oct. 2018 at 2:44am
Good luck with everything. We have had this discussion before. You will be down on the garage floor searching and will find the part you were looking for a few weeks before. It looks like a Soft Tail. My Harley leaked too.

-------------
uncamonkey


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 01 Oct. 2018 at 3:01am
I find the best way to find something I’ve lost is simply to replace it. It will immediately and magically appear. 01 deuce.


Posted By: Unkamonkey
Date Posted: 01 Oct. 2018 at 3:34am
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

I find the best way to find something I’ve lost is simply to replace it. It will immediately and magically appear. 01 deuce.
I understand it. I was tearing down a part of a ambulance awning at the hospital and my Sawzall died. OK, I found things to do until lunch and I went out and bought another. I got back to the job and my first one works. My brother got a new Sawzall for Christmas.

-------------
uncamonkey


Posted By: mike in oregon
Date Posted: 01 Oct. 2018 at 4:14am
Mike it is at my place in Fall Creek Or. just outside of Eugene. We usually have it the end of May or the first of June. We will set the date after the first of the year. Here is a link so you can check it out.  https://www.thecj2apage.com/FORUMS/2018-oregon-spring-fling_topic41900.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.thecj2apage.com/FORUMS/2018-oregon-spring-fling_topic41900.html

-------------
MIKE IN OREGON
President of Oregon Flat Fender Club.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Oregon-Flat-Fender-Club/222864787838570

46 CJ2A 38007
46 CJ2A 79863
BANTAM T3-C 25314


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 01 Oct. 2018 at 4:41am
Ok mike it’s a date


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 13 Oct. 2018 at 5:17am
New motor goes in in the morning. 

We’ll See if this was a good buy or not. Cleaned everything. Honed cylinders new rings and bearings. Has a bolt on the cam. And two different shades of blue paint. If it will run and isn’t cracked somewhere it was. 


Posted By: mike in oregon
Date Posted: 13 Oct. 2018 at 2:59pm
Lookin good Thumbs Up

-------------
MIKE IN OREGON
President of Oregon Flat Fender Club.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Oregon-Flat-Fender-Club/222864787838570

46 CJ2A 38007
46 CJ2A 79863
BANTAM T3-C 25314


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 14 Oct. 2018 at 5:47am


Got started this morning 
Took all day to get the old one out.  I guess I’m not as speedy as I once was. Looks like I need a new throw out bearing and a spring. Won’t get them till Tuesday or Wednesday. Swap parts over to the new motor tomorrow then wait. Ring gear is pretty torn up. Need to find out why. 


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 14 Oct. 2018 at 4:11pm
Well it’s a brand new day.  Unless Napa has a bearing I’ll get by with this one. Get my Bubba on and make a spring. It’s just a spring what could go wrong. I’ll have the new motor in by the end of the day. 

Here’s the ring gear. Flywheel is getting changed. Just need to figure out what caused this so it doesn’t happen again


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 14 Oct. 2018 at 9:58pm
Manifolds took an hour and a half on a surface plate with 120 grit to get them this good. 



the intake is new. The exhaust is an old Willy’s part it was flatter to begin with just rough. Slowing down progress 


Posted By: Gil
Date Posted: 15 Oct. 2018 at 12:45am
Your going to have a good motor,keep up the good work and keep those pictures coming.

Giles


-------------
1946 cj2a 59108
1998 Jeep Cherokee 2 doors
2016 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 15 Oct. 2018 at 2:09am
Well I’m gonna need a distributor 


this one has more slop in it than points have gap. I’m amazed the PO could even get it to run. Said he had a lot of trouble with it 


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 15 Oct. 2018 at 2:31am
I have’t used them yet, but I hear these guys are good at fixing them.

http://www.willysdistributors.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.willysdistributors.com/


-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 15 Oct. 2018 at 2:39am
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

I have’t used them yet, but I hear these guys are good at fixing them.

http://www.willysdistributors.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.willysdistributors.com/

Thanks 


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 16 Oct. 2018 at 4:36am
Got the sealing surfaces cleaned up so they have a chance of sealing up. Had to drill out the one stud after I broke it. Let it set quite a long time with the freeze out on it. Was even able to fill the hole at the end of the the stud up inside the exhaust. It broke anyway. No luck on distributor parts today  Maybe Kurt’s on vacation  


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 17 Oct. 2018 at 4:45pm
Heard Back from Kurt with Willy's distributors yesterday.  I get that answering phones and Email all day leave little time to get anything else done. Parts are ordered.
So last night I took the thing apart
 
 when the parts get here I'll have a distributor that will work like its supposed to.


Posted By: mbullism
Date Posted: 17 Oct. 2018 at 5:36pm
Looking good Thumbs Up

I like the "polishing" the manifold surfaces together, 120 grit.  Are you using a piece of plate glass, or granite countertop... or something more involved?

(I sharpen broadheads down to 1200 grit on a granite countertop... wife thinks I'm nuts Confused.  She may be right LOL... wait til I drag a manifold set into her kitchen Cool )


-------------
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 17 Oct. 2018 at 6:01pm
I use a granite surface plate. Available from Grizzly. Flat to 0.0002 they say. I doubt you get that when you stick a sheet of 120 grit on it with double sided tape but it works. I normally use it to sharpen woodworking tools to 4000 grit. Flattens the back of a big chisel to where it can be used as a mirror. 


Posted By: mbullism
Date Posted: 17 Oct. 2018 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

I use a granite surface plate. Available from Grizzly. Flat to 0.0002 they say. I doubt you get that when you stick a sheet of 120 grit on it with double sided tape but it works. I normally use it to sharpen woodworking tools to 4000 grit. Flattens the back of a big chisel to where it can be used as a mirror. 

I'm pretty sure my granite countertop IS 4000 grit ConfusedLOL...Nice!


-------------
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 18 Oct. 2018 at 3:15am
Auto-lite IAD in pieces. Laid out kinda lite it goes together. Talked to Kurt with Willy’s Distributor today. Parts went out yesterday so maybe tomorrow.

get a little paint on the body and put some new parts in she’s good as new. 


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 21 Oct. 2018 at 12:06am
Still waiting for distributor parts. Last evening I pulled the alternator and crank pull off the old motor. I then went on to put it on the new motor. Using the old mount it would not line up with the other pulleys. I took it apart thinking I had gotten something wrong. But there was only one way it would go together. 



I didn’t really think much of the way it was done anyway. So,  today I built another one. Did a little google search and a little plagerism and I have a plan.

And some materials

3 hours later and I have a new alternator mount



Worked alright if I were to do it again I’d find some 3/16 wall tube. Stuff I had was just under 1/8. It could stand to be a little stiffer. I got bad news on the radiator. Cores rotten. So much for cleaning it out and putting it back in. They can put a core in it and have it ready to go Wednesday. 
I think I have everything done I can so new motor goes in tomorrow. Any words of wisdom. I took the old out with the bell housing on it. Who woulda thought they had a spring hooked to the transmission. 


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 21 Oct. 2018 at 2:41am
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

Worked alright if I were to do it again I’d find some 3/16 wall tube. Stuff I had was just under 1/8. It could stand to be a little stiffer.


Proper engineering can make it stiffer without thicker steel.  Gusseting the inverted-L section will help a lot.  Put one under the U-shape and one between the two bolts.  Had you made the U-shape wider, you could gusset that too.


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 21 Oct. 2018 at 4:24am
I’m with you on the engineering. We’ll see how it does when the engine is turning it. Seems a waste of all those hours in a classroom not to do some calculations. But that’s what I’m doing. Main objective here is to give the belt a chance. They don’t like running in sheaves that aren’t somewhat in line.

Went down the road and checked the mail. USPS dropped off some distributor love from Kurt at Willy’s distributors. Spent the last couple hours putting it back together. Started with riveting the new data plate on the body. Then I pressed the new bearings in. I used a 3/8 bolt and a couple heavy washers. Then used one 
Of the old bearings to push the top bearing down like it was when I took it apart. Then I oiled up the shaft and put it in. It would have been easier to put the advance weights and springs together before I put the shaft in. I guess I just like a challenge. 
Then I put the anti rattle spring on the bottom of the cam plate. It went in the came the most difficult part of all. Putting in that little retainer spring for the cam plate. Took a while but I got it. After all that it got a NOS ground stud assembly and finally the points plate. 



Bearings going in




Don’t forget to drill the hole for the Oiler. I put a dowel in in place of the shaft and used a brad point bit. The drill a cleaner hole. Less likely to push the last of the wall in. 



New vs old springs. 


Distributor is nice and tight now. Connections have been debubba’d. Should work a whole lot better. 




Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 22 Oct. 2018 at 1:10am
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

Seems a waste of all those hours in a classroom not to do some calculations.


I hear ya.


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: shadow
Date Posted: 22 Oct. 2018 at 3:28pm
all that work will pay off with a really good running engine

-------------
lets go for a rip eh bud

Andy


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 22 Oct. 2018 at 4:00pm
Got the engine sitting in the frame lower bolts are in and then Family showed up.  had to quit working and go be social.  when I get back to it I have to put the upper bell housing bolts in.  right one looks easy. The left not so much.  I have until Wednesday when I get the newly cored radiator back to figure it out. 


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 27 Oct. 2018 at 3:48am
Well Wednesday turned into Thursday but no matter. I had knocked the clutch fork off when I set the motor in. Took a while to figure out how to get that back in. More about it on the tech page. And it started back to raining again on Wednesday. My plan of beating the rain didn’t work out. So I have a pop-up over the Jeep trying to keep it somewhat dry. If all goes well I will post a video of it running tomorrow. If things just work out then it will be Sunday. Here’s the old motor and new radiator. 




Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 27 Oct. 2018 at 4:05am
I pulled the head off the old one. It’s pretty tired looking pistons are 40 over valves are pretty thin. The exhaust valve that’s up is sloppy in the guide. There’s not much ridge on the two cylinders I can see. A little scored though. We’ll see how this budget rebuild turns out. Before I deside what to do with this one. 





Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 29 Oct. 2018 at 5:56pm
Sorry no pictures,
Spent the morning Sunday laying in water putting the new exhaust in.  Last chore to get done in getting ready to start the new motor up. I got everything laid out and waited for a clearing in the rain.  dove under the jeep for a 30 minute job of bolting it all up.  And none of the clamps would fit the larger pipe in front of the muffler. So, by the time I got back with parts that would fit the rain had settled in.  most of me was under the jeep so only the bottom half got wet.
Good news is the new engine is in and running good.  Wouldn't start until I went back over things and goggled counter clockwise.  As soon as I corrected this little mistake it fired right up.  Got it warmed up to where it would idle.  checked the temp gauge and its 180.  stepped out and see that I have steam coming off the rear exhaust manifold bolt.  Initially I thought it was dripping off the cowl gutter.  Its not.  reached in to shut it down and the temps up to 200.  Turns out I'm not 100% on sealing bolts.  I have 2 maybe 3 that are leaking.  as fate would have it they are all on the rear where you cant get to them.  then I noticed that the factory plugs in the new water pump were leaking.  and the radiator hose clamp I was putting on when the phone rang wasn't tight.
Once I get all the leaks stopped up I can get to, It's raining really good the gutters are over flowing and its getting dark.
When I get back to it and can run it at idle I'll set the idle, timing, and idle air.  And, post a video. 
 
MDF


Posted By: Stev
Date Posted: 29 Oct. 2018 at 11:31pm
Mike,

Just found your thread.  Very cool that you painted the Kaiser Supersonic blue like they came in the Henry J !  Hot Rod Willys Jeep!

Are you going to run the YF Carb?  I was looking at you photos and trying to see the top side of the intake manifold.  

I picked up a a Supersonic that still has the front plate from the Herny J car a few weeks ago.  It has a YF carb and a vacuum advance distributor.

Stev 


-------------
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 30 Oct. 2018 at 1:34am
This one came without the supersonic head or manifold. Had a Willy’s head that has been milled and I think a solex carb. I looked for a head for quite a while. They are rare but they show up from time to time.


Posted By: Stev
Date Posted: 30 Oct. 2018 at 2:10am
The Solex carb I don't know much about.  The WO carb is set up so you can climb hills - the float is designed so it will still work while climbing.   The YF might need to be reoriented perhaps 90 degrees so its float will work in a hill climb on the Henry J intake on the Supersonic - I could be wrong about that.  Need to study the YF some.   

-------------
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 30 Oct. 2018 at 2:12am
Well the adventure continues
I took a short video but it won’t let me upload it. So you’ll have to be satisfied with my written descriptive powers.
Got the leaking and cooling issues sorted out today. Running 160 to 180. No leaks. Then went on to tuning. Found it near impossible to hold the light and see the marks while turning the distributor I think I’m within a degree or two at idle.  Air screw on the solex does nothing. Stumbles coming off idle. 
Imagine that your watching a short (22 sec) video of a 134 just idleing along at about 600 rpm. Sound pretty sweet. Except for that ticking. Now if the video would have uploaded we could have played what’s that noise. But it wouldn’t. So we can’t. If we had been able to then the one who guessed that’s the bent crankshaft pulley hitting the timing cover would have had it right.
Today I also learned never to use a 30 plus year old clutch disc.  Even though it is new.  Turns out if you do you’ll be pulling either the motor or transmission to change it.

Tried to get the new STA super traxions might have been to dark 


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 30 Oct. 2018 at 2:26am
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

The Solex carb I don't know much about.  The WO carb is set up so you can climb hills - the float is designed so it will still work while climbing.   The YF might need to be reoriented perhaps 90 degrees so its float will work in a hill climb on the Henry J intake on the Supersonic - I could be wrong about that.  Need to study the YF some.   
I don’t seem to know much about the solex either. Every other carb I ever had when you twist the screws stuff would change. This one don’t seem to care what you do. Never seen a YF. Or at least not for a long time. 


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 05 Nov. 2018 at 4:43am
Spent the weekend pulling the motor out to fix some issues. First one was the clutch. Turns out the guy that was helping me is not as smart as he thinks he is. The problem with the clutch was that the disc was put in backwards. I think the old one was fine. Still, I had a new setup assembled in USA from Korean and Chinese parts. So I went ahead and put it in.
Next issue was the ticking noise. Turns out what I thought was a groove cut in the timing cover was not. It’s really hard to see down there in the dark. The real problem was a small dent in the front of the pan. This was confirmed by removing the pan after the timing cover theory proved to be wrong. Once inside and looking at the scribed arch. It was obvious. The front counterweight on the crank had been whacking the front of the pan. My helper thought it might be a good thing to have a very clear and audible indication of engine speed. He had proven he doesn’t know what he’s doing with the clutch.  So I didn’t listen. I went ahead and took the dent out. Cleaned everything up and put the pan back on. 
The cooling issues came down to a kinked lower radiator hose. It was one of the straight corrugated bend to fit type. Replaced it with a preformed from NAPA. I’m assuming this was the problem. As it was the only thing I changed that was different from what I took off.
I should have know something was wrong when the engine practically just fell in last time. The clutch fork. The clutch. The noise in the pan. By the same logic this time around everything should be ok. No matter what I tried the last 3/4 inch wasn’t going together. Even backed out and rechecked the clutch plate. Looked ok the little plastic alignment tool slipped right in.  I did put a new pilot in. It was a little tighter but not much. I went ahead and reset the plate and tried again. Same thing but now it’s 1/2 inch. So I took the guide bolts out and put some just slightly long bolts in. One turn of the nut on each side and it fell together.
Ended the day with motor sitting in the mounts and the right side reassembled. With any luck at all I should be able to run down and watch the sunrise with Dennis next Sunday. 




Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 06 Nov. 2018 at 2:47am
It runs
No funny noises and I think the clutch works. Greater attention to detail. And coming to terms with it’s been a long time and I don’t remember as much as I think I do. Would have saved me quite a lot of work. On the other hand I’m getting pretty good at putting the upper left bolt in. My old dwell tach gave up on me. I’ve had it since 1980. They are hard to find now days. Found an old stock new in the box one like it on eBay. It’ll be here tomorrow. Get the old Jeep tuned up and drive it a while to find out what else needs attention. I need to figure out how to post a video tried again but it says it’s the wrong file type. 






Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 06 Nov. 2018 at 3:37am
Awesome! Guess we will have Jeeps on the beach this weekend.


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: mbullism
Date Posted: 06 Nov. 2018 at 3:41am
Nice! Thumbs Up

-------------
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 06 Nov. 2018 at 4:13am
Originally posted by berettajeep berettajeep wrote:

Awesome! Guess we will have Jeeps on the beach this weekend.
. Let’s plan on it. I’ll take it it to work a couple days. If I think it will make it that far I’m in. I drove it to work one day. 20 miles round trip. Kinda shaky. Not to bad. Found a front wheel bearing loose. Fixed it should be better now.

Purrs like a kitten 


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 12 Nov. 2018 at 5:43am
Ive been tinkering with the carburetor most of the week motor idles great. Stumbles off idle and runs rough. These Solex things are strange. It’s the last piece of the old motor. Everything else from the radiator to the transmission has been rebuilt or replaced. I suspect it’s a jet problem. Accelerator pump seems to work I would tear into it if I had a sheet that was legible. I’ve ball over the web looking. There’s lots of them uploaded. Can’t read any one of them. No matter got a new one on order. It’ll be here Saturday.  I’m curious if it’ll have a legible sheet in the box. 


Posted By: ndnchf
Date Posted: 12 Nov. 2018 at 11:51am
My CJ2A had a new solex on it when I got it. It ran ok, but not as good as I knew it was capable of. I finally called scoutpilot and ordered a completely rebuilt Carter WO. I was amazed at how much better it starts and runs. This is the original carb for these jeeps. When properly restored, they really work great. I know others are satisfied with a solex, but for me, the extra money spent on the carter was well worth it. I hope the new solex works for you, but if not, give Scoutpilot a call. He can fix you up.

-------------
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 12 Nov. 2018 at 2:46pm
Thanks Steve. I think that’s good advice.


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 14 Nov. 2018 at 3:14am
For me personally, I think that Ol' Unreliable was a bit peppier with the Solex than with the Carter, at least when the Solex was new. 


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 14 Nov. 2018 at 3:36am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

For me personally, I think that Ol' Unreliable was a bit peppier with the Solex than with the Carter, at least when the Solex was new. 
I really am a if it ain’t broke don’t fix it kinda guy anymore. The biggest problem with the solex is that I can’t find a readable spec sheet on it. Years ago I would have just tore it apart looking for what might not be right. There is a sediment bowl but no filter in the fuel line. The tank was replaced by the PO. I took the sediment bowl off and cleaned it when I swapped it from the old motor and it had a good amount of crap in it. I’m fairly sure it’s just a blocked high end jet. Or the Solex equivalent. Really hopeing to get a readable sheet with the new one. Tried to make sure to get a crown and not Omni. Don’t know if one is better than the other or not. 


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 14 Nov. 2018 at 3:47am
There is a tiny screen just inside the fuel inlet to the Solex.  If you take everything off the inlet, you'll find it.  It is very likely to be clogged.


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 14 Nov. 2018 at 3:52am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

There is a tiny screen just inside the fuel inlet to the Solex.  If you take everything off the inlet, you'll find it.  It is very likely to be clogged.

I read about that. Removed and cleaned it. No difference. Are they supposed to be all twisted up looking?  


Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 14 Nov. 2018 at 3:59am
They are not supposed to be all twisted.  I think when a rebuild kit is installed they get that way.  When I opened up mine for the first time the original was not twisted.  The replacement part doesn't fit as well as a factory installation part.


-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 15 Nov. 2018 at 4:55am
I think between the 2 of them there are parts enough to make one.




The lighter colored one is in worse shape the rusty black one is really pretty solid.  Either way I need to develop some sheet metal working skills. Both core look like they will work out. 



Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 17 Nov. 2018 at 2:30am
Took a break from working on the heaters to put the new Solex carburetor on. Maybe took 30 minutes to change it out. Fired right up when fuel got to it. Had to set the idle up a little bit. Haven’t touched anything else. And  she’s running great. took her out for about a 10 mile loop. No stutter or stumble. Tomorrow I’ll put a vacuum gage on it and set the idle air for max vacuum. Might even run better. I need to learn how to upload a video 


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 17 Nov. 2018 at 3:21am
Nice. Let me know when you drive it to the coast.

-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 17 Nov. 2018 at 4:25am
Originally posted by berettajeep berettajeep wrote:

Nice. Let me know when you drive it to the coast.
You busy Sunday. I’ll drive it around town tomorrow. If something don’t fall apart. I’ll head out once it gets to where I do t need a defroster to see out the windshield 


Posted By: Greaser007
Date Posted: 29 Nov. 2018 at 4:58pm
This has been a very enjoyable Thread !

   Good lord, now I know I am not the only person who has to assemble and disassemble to get things right. Now at age 67, it seems I measure 4-times and cut 3-times then go get another new piece to start measuring again. hahaha.

   So, from reading through this thread, Mike, I have learned that the henry J L134 will work in a Willys. Very interesting because awhile back, I remember seeing a henry J motor for sale, but had no clue of what it was.

   Is there a significant horsepower difference of 20-hp with the Henry because of the higher compression head ?

   It is good to hear the new Solex is working. :)

   Len


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 29 Nov. 2018 at 5:42pm
If it was a Henry J 134 you should have bought it.  They are somewhat desirable.  HP difference is i think +8. 60 for the Willys and 68 for the Henry J.  the biggest difference is in the head.  it has a smaller combustion chamber resulting in higher compression.  The same thing can be had by milling a standard Willys Head.  
4 cyl Henry j's will work in a Willys.  The front plate, pan, head, intake/carb, bell housing, and distributor are different.  only things you would have to change for a 2a would be the front plate and the bellhousing.  And possibly the ring gear on the fly wheel depending on your tooth count.   But, these parts will all swap off a Willys 134.
I found a Supersonic head In Nova Scotia.  UPS tracking says it will get here today.  Probably hang it on the wall for now.

Solex is working.  I'm gonna go through and make sure any screw i can get to is tight.  and i guess i should look at whether or not they are actually clamping anything.

Then i'm off to working on a heater.  Not so much for the heat but around here you gotta have a defroster.


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 29 Nov. 2018 at 5:48pm
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

Then i'm off to working on a heater.  Not so much for the heat but around here you gotta have a defroster.


So true! Although it is getting colder around these parts.

-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: WeeWilly
Date Posted: 29 Nov. 2018 at 6:02pm
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

Originally posted by berettajeep berettajeep wrote:

Nice. Let me know when you drive it to the coast.

You busy Sunday. I’ll drive it around town tomorrow. If something don’t fall apart. I’ll head out once it gets to where I do t need a defroster to see out the windshield 


   Those 6 volt electric defrosters that attach to the windshield by rubber suction cups works really good. I used one back in the winters of the 70s and 80s in my jeep that had no heater.

    Jim

-------------
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)


Posted By: Greaser007
Date Posted: 29 Nov. 2018 at 6:57pm
   Mike,
   In our PM you mentioned having worked in Scotia on Co-Gen.

   I bought a home in Fortuna when I began my state job with the highway department back in 1998. There was an old-growth stump which measured 14-feet across, and it looked like a dance-floor. I had several acres of Redwood forest second and third growth, and it was a year-round job to rake redwood sprigs and trailer them to the Co-Gen plant in Scotia.
I froze-out on the Coast, and did get a transfer to the Sacto Valley in 2004, and back to the warm arid climate.

   Next time I stumble across a Henry J 4-banger I will take a look !

   I won't buy any Henry J blue paint quite yet :)

   Because of all the wildfires in the California north-state, we lost our Sun from July 23 through the middle of September.

   Speaking of Defroster - I have often thought of incorporating a late model heater / ac unit from a small compact auto and mounting it in the Willys, then we would have the benefit of the Evaporator to pull moisture out of the air.
   And you could power the A/C Compressor off of the PTO. snicker :)
And connect it with a coupler like we use on our Wood-Splitters.
    _ _ _ _ just teasing _ _

   So, if we were to install a late model htr / ac unit we could mount a manual switch to activate the compressor when needed. And too, the late model blower units have 5-speed squirrel-cage-blowers. Pretty cool stuff. I'm thinking the heater-box, evap-box and blower-box out of a 2014 Ford Fiesta and the plumbing. The next time I go to Pic-n-Pull, I am going to scruitinize the small cars to see just how small of a space they take-up.
And too, _ _ many of these units in small autos don't utilitze vacuum for the heater controls, but real nice poly enclosed control cables. I just removed the dash cover from my '95 Honda passport, and the 3-boxes line up together up against a flat firewall, so all self-contained and maybe better than a Vintage-Aire unit for size and $$$$. _ _ _ i'm letting my mind wander because it is a real nasty day outside and my shop is cold and clammy. Inside the cabin, the fire is warm and comfy so here I sit jabbering with you's-guy's.

   Over and Out !

   Len


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 26 Jan. 2019 at 10:02pm
Well it’s been a while since the last update.
I finally got one of the heaters somewhat rebuilt and installed. Got it in last Saturday and finished it up Monday evening after the last fitting for the return line at the water pump came in. I wanted a 45 when I ordered the parts. After searching for a couple hours over several days I gave up and ended up getting a straight one. Thinking I would find a way to make it work. Turned out the only way it was going to work was to mangle up the oil filter mount. I really didn’t want to do that so I looked again. I found it on Amazon with a 2 week ship date. I really wasn’t in to waiting 2 weeks so I took the part number back to Summit and some how they had it to me in a day and a half.  Here it is. 

Then all I needed to do was wire the blower motor and I’d be good to go. I really didn’t like the clamp to the dash switch I ordered. I also wasn’t interested in drilling a hole in the dash. And I need a place to mount the pull cable for the heater valve. Getting out to open and close a valve for the heater just seems so inconvenient. So I made up a bracket to hold them both. 

The PO put a fused panel in at some point and there was a spare spot so the wiring went pretty easy. The heater is installed. 
As long as I was at it and it wasn’t raining. I figured I’d just continue along and put in the some of the other stuff I’ve been collecting. So I kept going and put all the grommets in the firewall. Then the little boot for the throttle shaft through the floor. Finishing up with replacing the hand throttle and choke cables. Ended up removing the speedometer to get to them. Still a job better suited to a 90 pound kid than an old fat guy. Still I got it done. They are both now long enough and work a lot better.
Then I was down to getting the last fitting mentioned above. 





Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 26 Jan. 2019 at 10:55pm
The final fitting came in Monday and I installed it and got the hose hooked up.  By the time I got the coolant back in it was dark. Still I needed to go for a ride and see how this new heater works.  Well it’s kinda noisy as is everything thing else in this Jeep so it fits right in. Yet it does throw off some heat. 
During my short heater shakedown cruise the engine is missing or cutting out or something. Not wanting to walk home I turned around and headed back. When I got back to the gravel road the headlights quit.  It was fully dark by then. I couldn’t see a thing through the fogged up windshield so I opened the side window, stuck my head out and drove it home. When I got there the headlights came back on. And looking things over I noticed the ammeter is saying it’s discharging. It was supper time and starting to rain so disgusted I gave up.
So this morning I get back to figuring out what got messed up during the heater install.
Joe Friday suggested the dimmer switch for the headlights. I’m going with that for now since they are currently working. At some point I will mess with. Switch to see if I can recreate the problem. If so I’ll replace it.  Right now the wiring is a cobbled up mess.  Still there are more serious things that need attention. 
The cutting out / stalling turned out to be a bad connector on the coil wire. The insulator. Had slipped back and it was grounding out to the coil body. 

I removed the nut and picked up on the wire and the crimped connector just fell off. I fixed it then went on to the alternator problem. First thought was the connector at the regulator. But every time I’d move it a little the engine would die. I finally shook the wires enough that a connector fell off this block

Seems like this is a resistor. Anyway I replaced both of the connectors going to it. Once done a check of the ammeter says A ok. So I’m back to having a running Jeep now with a working heater. Why the connections on a resistor that seems to be in the circuit for the points would effect the charge circuit is a mystery to me. Yet I’m not going to argue with success. Now on to using up all the Ross steering box parts I’ve been collecting 


Posted By: Flatfender Ben
Date Posted: 27 Jan. 2019 at 4:36pm
 Great looking jeep. 
 Keep an eye on that copper oil filter line there’s a lot of vibration on that oil filter that’s why the brackets are always broke and those copper lines are known to split out it’s better to have a rubber hose on there. 


-------------
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer


Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 27 Jan. 2019 at 11:47pm
Originally posted by Flatfender Ben Flatfender Ben wrote:

 Great looking jeep. 
 Keep an eye on that copper oil filter line there’s a lot of vibration on that oil filter that’s why the brackets are always broke and those copper lines are known to split out it’s better to have a rubber hose on there. 

Your absolutely right about that Ben. Need to replace it with a flex line. It you notice the black on the mount is shiny. It’s wet with oil. 



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net