MY '47 CJ-2A
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Category: CJ-2A Discussion Area
Forum Name: Your Jeep Project
Forum Description: Show everyone progress on your jeep!
URL: https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=44399
Printed Date: 18 Apr. 2024 at 11:03pm
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Topic: MY '47 CJ-2A
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Subject: MY '47 CJ-2A
Date Posted: 12 Mar. 2019 at 10:26pm
This thread will hopefully share my 1947 CJ-2A project with fellow enthusiasts.This 2A has been with me since 1961 ---a few days ago, LOL. It ran until the starter went out over 20 years ago and sadly has been starving for attention ever since.. It is now time to fix her up.
HERE WE GO!
Going to start a little backwards but why not. First goal is to make this 2A meet today's driving conditions. So i'm starting off upgrading the brakes and steering while repairing/replacing external parts as needed.
YOUR INPUT IS VALUABLE ON THIS QUEST SO PLEASE CHIME IN, I need all the help.
Starting off needing to replace the engine mounting plate from a 2a to a 3a.
pulled the front clip off, removed the radiator, and now diving into removing the crank pulley, timing cover, timing gears, and then the plate.
Here come the pics.
Bubba has been here
CRANK PULLEY-FRONT VIEW Could not find any numbers or lettering on the pulley. Lucked out, the pulley slide off by hand.
NOTICE THE PULLEYS WEAR PATTERN ON THE UPPER PIC TIMING COVER OUTSIDE VIEW
THE LARGE WASHER LOOKING THING SEEMS TO BE WHAT WAS RUBBING ON THE BACKSIDE OF THE PULLEY....????
INSIDE TIMING COVER LOOKS FAIRLY CLEAN INSIDE. CAM GEAR HAD THE WORD "HOOF" STAMPED IN IT
Surprised how clean it is inside, and the gears appear good....will remove, clean'um up and see. Concern, why is the pulley rubbing on the timing cover? What is that large washer thing?
Will remove the gears and plate tomorrow. wish me luck
Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Replies:
Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 12 Mar. 2019 at 10:54pm
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The gears do take a puller Jim. The cam gear can be especially difficult. I used a 2 slot puller with 2 long bolts with the heads thinned and as big of a washer as I could get through the holes. You have to have it turned just right for the bolt heads and washers to fit. I think it’s best to pull the valves and tappets first so the cam can turn as the gear is pulled. Should be easier on the fiber gear teeth. There are stories around about fellers trying to bar them off and breaking them.
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 12 Mar. 2019 at 11:03pm
 Mike F wrote:
The gears do take a puller Jim. The cam gear can be especially difficult. I used a 2 slot puller with 2 long bolts with the heads thinned and as big of a washer as I could get through the holes. You have to have it turned just right for the bolt heads and washers to fit. I think it’s best to pull the valves and tappets first so the cam can turn as the gear is pulled. Should be easier on the fiber gear teeth. There are stories around about fellers trying to bar them off and breaking them. |
Thanks Mike for the advice. I need it. Seems I have lost all my flat fender manuals and I don't remember the "how to" stuff. I do have pullers and such...somewhere. 
OH, I did find my 1 3/8" socket, Napa was holding it ransom for $11.95. They shined it up real nice!
Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: Mike F
Date Posted: 12 Mar. 2019 at 11:13pm
jeepsterjim wrote:
Mike F wrote:
The gears do take a puller Jim. The cam gear can be especially difficult. I used a 2 slot puller with 2 long bolts with the heads thinned and as big of a washer as I could get through the holes. You have to have it turned just right for the bolt heads and washers to fit. I think it’s best to pull the valves and tappets first so the cam can turn as the gear is pulled. Should be easier on the fiber gear teeth. There are stories around about fellers trying to bar them off and breaking them. |
Thanks Mike for the advice. I need it. Seems I have lost all my flat fender manuals and I don't remember the "how to" stuff. I do have pullers and such...somewhere.
OH, I did find my 1 3/8" socket, Napa was holding it ransom for $11.95. They shined it up real nice!
Jim |
LOL You know that you'll now soon find the old one right.
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 13 Mar. 2019 at 12:58am
Mike F wrote LOL You know that you'll now soon find the old one right.
Oh heck yeah, never fails. Jim | |
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 19 Mar. 2019 at 1:41am
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Had time to tear apart the clutch/brake assembly for the upcoming M/C conversion. I am using the R&P bracket with the Wildwood dual M/C. I am getting mixed reports such as; 1 I do not have to cut out or remove any existing brackets or plates. 2 I need to cut off the clutch/brake rod bracket that's welded to the frame. Replace with a 3A type. Advice needed.
Any idea what's needed? Here are pics of what my 2A looks like in the M/C area.
Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 19 Mar. 2019 at 1:52am
After soaking, mild heating up, and dead blows on the three thermostat bolts, they came out without breakage.
Here is what I found ....
Bubba might have been a Italian?
Glad the housing did not break
I have a new thermostat assembly coming from Walcks.
Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 20 Mar. 2019 at 12:28am
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Did more exploring today.
Cleaned up the thermostat housing and found the maker of it and the part #. Never heard of this company. Have you?
See pics
part # is A 1192
Next thing was to remove the clutch bell crank and then the skid plate so I can clean and then replace the trans mount. Check out the heap of crud that was on top of the skid plate, un-real. A lot of it is avocado leaves,stems, fox tails, and a head scratching surprise. See pics
Organic Jeep crud
What the heck? Like to know how it got placed in the crud, LOL
Skid plate is tweaked, damn! the one side was rubbing against the bell housing. A rose bud and a BHF will be needed
Lots and lots of crud removal still. More mysteries. Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: Greaser007
Date Posted: 20 Mar. 2019 at 3:34pm
Jim, omg, i'd hate to have to dig through that crud with an "on-trail" repair.
What company is R & P ?
You could have those needles time-dated, and they may be petrified ! hahaha
From looking at the bracket photos, I don't see much rust under the grease and oil build-up. My dad always reminded me that if it is covered with oil, it won't rust.
I am up here east of Anderson, California. Back in the '80's and '90's the last stop for supplies before assaulting the Rubicon trail was Placerville.
Beer and Ice _ _ _ and goodies. Well, just like with you, it has been 34-years since my last Willys refurb, 1984, and I have forgotten everything about how-to do most of the components, but am now on a "Re-Learn" with another '46.
( and not devoting much time to it ). hahaha
Does PartsMike have a parts-room at his business do you know ?
It is good to hear you are on-tap with a refurb.
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 20 Mar. 2019 at 4:14pm
Greaser007 wrote:
Jim, omg, i'd hate to have to dig through that crud with an "on-trail" repair.
What company is R & P ?
You could have those needles time-dated, and they may be petrified ! hahaha
From looking at the bracket photos, I don't see much rust under the grease and oil build-up. My dad always reminded me that if it is covered with oil, it won't rust.
I am up here east of Anderson, California. Back in the '80's and '90's the last stop for supplies before assaulting the Rubicon trail was Placerville.
Beer and Ice _ _ _ and goodies. Well, just like with you, it has been 34-years since my last Willys refurb, 1984, and I have forgotten everything about how-to do most of the components, but am now on a "Re-Learn" with another '46.
( and not devoting much time to it ). hahaha
Does PartsMike have a parts-room at his business do you know ?
It is good to hear you are on-tap with a refurb. |
Finding, what a first thought to be a rats nest, turned out to be debris from using the 2a in the groves. Brought back driving it....hard work, and a little rat patrol as well.
I used to say to friends, oil leaks is my rust proofing.
As mentioned else where in here, this 2A has been with me since '61 and its now time to clean her up. R&P 4WD is out of Oregon. He makes disc brake conversions...uses Suzuki rotor and S-10 calipers. M/C dual brake kit, and more. EWillys has a write up.
if up my way, stop by!!!
Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 21 Mar. 2019 at 1:44am
Picked up this vintage tool. Should work fine for a L-134.it is made by  Wilde tool.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 22 Mar. 2019 at 11:31pm
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Was able to remove clutch/brake frame bracket today.
BEFORE AFTER INSIDE PLATE BEFORE AFTER BUBBA CLUTCH LINKAGE REPAIR, how does one bend or break this rod? My Dualmatic hubs and muffler
Received a box of parts from Walcks today and also my Wildwood M/C. Lots of scrapping to do still.
Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: ndnchf
Date Posted: 22 Mar. 2019 at 11:54pm
Single lever Dualmatics. Those must be pretty rare.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 23 Mar. 2019 at 12:55am
Amazed to find the bolts safety wired.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 24 Mar. 2019 at 12:17am
jeepsterjim wrote:
BUBBA CLUTCH LINKAGE REPAIR, how does one bend or break this rod? |
What usually happens is that one of the short ends breaks off. Then you replace the whole rod and another end breaks off. Then you just take the two ends that are still good and you put them together somehow. I simply welded my two good halves together. 
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 25 Mar. 2019 at 3:04am
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Had time to mount the 3A type clutch/brake bracket that mounts to the bottom frame rail. Also drilled the holes for the dual master brake bracket.
clamped new bracket to the frame. Marked the holes for drilling and proceeded to remount the bracket. The new bracket bolted up with bell crank in place You can drill the dual M/C bracket from the outside of the frame. Makes it easier to do. Bottom view of the brackets. This time the M/C bracket is inside the frame rail, right where it needs to be. Bottom view, from the front, of the assembly.
Still have to install a frame stiffener, like the 3A has.
Lots to do. But today was good
Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 26 Mar. 2019 at 4:00am
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Worked on the "frame stiffener" today. By viewing pics, it seems later CJ's, M38's, ETC had a extra piece of metal that helped support the Clutch/brake pivot bracket. Since I removed the inside support plate and the welded pivot bracket "early 2A's" I chose to create a frame stiffener. positioned the Stiffener for fit--notice that I notched it so as to slip behind the old M/C mounting plate. Another view...Not only will it slide behind the M/C mounting plate it also extends 4" past the cross member bracket.
Showing the stiffener in place. Will secure it with a few bolts. This should work as well as the original.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 06 Apr. 2019 at 2:32am
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Been working on the drivers side motor mount modification. Also have replaced the 2a motor mount plate with a M38 plate. The M38 plate kicks the motor mount forward thus giving more room for a dual diaphram fuel pump. I believe 3A's, 3B's had this style as well.
My want to install Saginaw steering is the reason to use a M38 plate. Will get into the steering conversion soon. This is the same basic mod and conversion that "bkwudz/Paul" did.
M38 plate---notice motor mount ear faces forward. Had fun removing the old motor mount frame bracket. Darn thing was riveted and then welded. Also removed the brake line bracket.
used a piece of 1 3/4" square tubing to make up the base of the new motor mount. Still need to make up the other half of the new motor mount bracket that will bolt to the M38 plate. A lot to do yet!
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 14 Apr. 2019 at 2:29am
Had the chance to do more work on the new motor mount this last week. Here's what's been done.
On the drivers side of the M38 motor mount plate, it has a piece of it that protrudes out, due to the later style fuel pump. I made a plate that goes around the protrusion so that the new motor mount bracket will fit snug up against the plate.
Pic shows the main brackets I needed to make up. Basicly I used 1 3/4" square tubing and 1/4" x 2" x 7" piece of flat bar. The square tubing has a sleeve that's pressed through the front and butts up against the opposite inner wall for support. Thus preventing dimpling if over tighten. The bracket is shaped to contuor the timing case cover and is notched so one can get a 3/4" wrench inside.
You can see the sleeve and the motor mount bracket on top of the frame rail. Had fun getting the frame rail bracket to sit level in all directions. Rear side of Bracket. You can see the spacer plate, how the bracket contours the timing case cover, and the notch for the bolt. Back side of barcket with the other piece welded up. Brackets welded up and temporarly mounted in place. The frame rail bracket also has inner sleeves where the bolts go through the bracket and into frame. Side view.
Back side of the new mount.
Front side of new mount. I need to finish welding the two brackets up. OOPS! Top right corner of the two brackets.
All in all the new mount is butt ugly but is going to be plenty strong, easy to remove, and will give the Saginaw style steering shaft plenty of room. Time for a little welding, painting, and install for good
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: Freedom21
Date Posted: 14 Apr. 2019 at 2:56am
*Edit-Wrong thread. 
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09 JKU
02 KJ
66 CJ-5
48 CJ2A "Lefty"
?? M416
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 15 Apr. 2019 at 10:54pm
Finished up the drivers side motor mount today.
Side view
Top view
Front view---fixed the oops weld
Before making this mod, I took trailer leveling jacks and a 4x4 and placed them accross the oil pan then raised the jacks up until the 4x4 was just snug. From there I took to many measurements to make sure everything stays within specs. After finishing up the mod, all the specs are dead on.  This motor mount mod will greatly help with the upcoming Saginaw steering conversion.
 A big thanks to the those that helped out! k
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 18 Apr. 2019 at 6:21pm
This week, I'm working on making up the steering box mounting plates. I am using a manaul and P/S box to play with. Luckily, I saved a jeepster commando P/S frame to box adapter to use for the Box bolt pattern. Many of you know that 3 out of the 4 bolt holes from a P/S box are the same as the three bolt manual or P/S box.  So, I am going to make up a 4 bolt P/S box mounting plate and use a thre hole manual box on it. When mounting, I will use a P/S box and such which will give me the option of changing out manual steering to P/S. Won't need to redo the mount. Yes I like manual steering.
I have made up front inner side frame rails to help strengthen the frame.
Note: I mentioned useing a Jeepster Commando steering box adapter for the bolt hole pattern. It works great for that task. HOWEVER, from my past experience with these adapters, They are junk!! Please don't rely on them. If they were safe, IMO, I would use one on my conversion. I have replaced dozens of them for customers.
Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 29 Apr. 2019 at 3:19am
Picked up some trans parts today and found good and bad. Would greatly appreciate your thoughts.
Picked up a T-90 trans that was pulled out of a 1966 CJ5 F134. It also came with the bell housing.
STRANGE....the case is for a side shift but it had a cane shift bolted to it. Bubba? The good part is the trans has the lower gear set. Trans was very clean inside and looking over the gears, they seem good.
Notice the difference in the shift tower snout/cone. Jeep must of made a change in the later years OR is this from ??? The cane is different too.
The shift rail end caps are different. Wonder if a reverse light switch could be installed.
forks don't seem to good
Forks-2
These shift forks seem ok but I will need to see if they will inter-change with the bad ones. There's a small difference between the two covers but I hope I can inter-change the parts to make one good unit.
Right after unbolting the bell housing, I picked it up and tripped over my dog. NOT GOOD! The bell housing cracked
Can this crack be welded?
Also, is this the correct B-housing for the 91/4" clutch assembly?
Also have been working on the manual saginaw steering. Made up a plate to strengthen the frame rail.
Your help is needed. Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: ggordon49
Date Posted: 29 Apr. 2019 at 3:12pm
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Hello - The shifter top with arrow below appears to be from a T-84 which can be found in older military Jeeps (MB/GPW's).
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- Don't Let The Fatherless Ones Grind You Down -
- I like them stock, survivor's with original paint are my favorites -
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Posted By: TateC
Date Posted: 29 Apr. 2019 at 3:48pm
No offense but the top is certainly not T84. That top is for a M38 T90 which has the screw in plugs for shift rails and screw on top for shift cane.
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Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687
1943 Willys MB #263100
1944 Ford GPW #234613
1945 Willys CJ2A #10226
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Posted By: ggordon49
Date Posted: 29 Apr. 2019 at 3:58pm
TateC wrote:
No offense but the top is certainly not T84. That top is for a M38 T90 which has the screw in plugs for shift rails and screw on top for shift cane.
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No offense taken!  Sorry about that jeepster..... I forgot the T84's are flat on top... Thanks for the correction!
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- Don't Let The Fatherless Ones Grind You Down -
- I like them stock, survivor's with original paint are my favorites -
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 29 Apr. 2019 at 4:25pm
TateC wrote:
No offense but the top is certainly not T84. That top is for a M38 T90 which has the screw in plugs for shift rails and screw on top for shift cane.
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Tate
Thanks for ID'ing the cover. Seems the M38 may have had a few improvements. The one shift fork looks worn to me. Looking at it, it appears that Buibba weld it put a bead on it and filed the fork in shape. Hopefully I can interchange the fork(s) .
Would the B-housing be from a M38?
Love how Bubba got a hold of this trans, gears are the T-90 C type, side shift case, M38 shift tower.
Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 29 Apr. 2019 at 7:37pm
Found out the B-housing may of came from a M38a1---#804306. Found a NOS for$200.00 Out of my budget
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 30 Apr. 2019 at 11:33pm
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More junk and another "what the heck" Bubba moment.
Below are 4 t90 cases. The top, left case has a odd number stamped into it. I'm reffering to the number stamped beteen the shift linkage. It is very hard to read but it reads---M126. Top right says 12-23-54. Bottom left says 10-3-46, And the bottom right one, directly to the right of the T90A-1 says ?-?-54 one had a lazy F stamped inside but not a Ford F.
The shift cover/tower number is....
A Bubba drills it moment. Why would one drill a hole in the shift cane? Guess I need a new/old shift cane Leary of welding it up....opinons??? Bubba welds it Appears somone welded up a badly worn shift fork and filed it down. Think I will find a new fork. It amazes me what people do or use. Makes life interesting
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 01 May 2019 at 1:36am
A brazing rod would fix that hole pretty quick.
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty
"Common sense is not that common"
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Posted By: mbullism
Date Posted: 01 May 2019 at 2:02am
jeepsterjim wrote:
It amazes me what people do or use. |
A majority of folks these days have lost sight of what it really means to have nothing... and in certain circumstances two batteries and a coat hanger are not so much Bubba
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 01 May 2019 at 2:26am
mbullism wrote:
jeepsterjim wrote:
It amazes me what people do or use. |
A majority of folks these days have lost sight of what it really means to have nothing... and in certain circumstances two batteries and a coat hanger are not so much Bubba |
I Agree! Have used a battery and fence/bailing wire to weld stuff.
Raised and worked in the orchards before box stores, internet, and not living near town, we fixed the equipment with what was on hand. Dad would often say, get it working and we will fix it after the harvest, NOT . My 2A is from the ranch and I have to laugh at how much bailing wire it still has on it. Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 01 May 2019 at 2:32am
rocnroll wrote:
A brazing rod would fix that hole pretty quick.
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Would brazing it be strong enough? I do have a wire feed welder. The metal around the hole is very thin.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 01 May 2019 at 4:08am
jeepsterjim wrote:
rocnroll wrote:
A brazing rod would fix that hole pretty quick.
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Would brazing it be strong enough? |
What have you got to lose?
I personally would try it before I tried to wire weld it but that's just me.....I would do alot neater job that way.
Heat the shifter cane cherry red an inch or so surrounding the hole and stick a brazing rod to it.
(Just the way I would do it until somebody offered you up another cane.) I like brazing because it sort of forms itself.
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty
"Common sense is not that common"
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Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 01 May 2019 at 4:14am
Do that and if you still don't think it's strong enough slide a small piece of tubing over it and braze that.
Like soldering, the trick is getting the pieces HOT enough
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty
"Common sense is not that common"
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 01 May 2019 at 4:26am
Posted By: Greaser007
Date Posted: 01 May 2019 at 6:30am
Jim,
You'll have that new steering box in place before summer !
And nice work on the motor mount. If in the least, you can always fix it the right way after Harvest ! :)
Yep, jumping out of 2-nd gear on decal. That could be shimming, but I would replace 2-nd gear, and the synchronizer assembly.
After doing a VW bug transaxle the 2-nd time over because I tried a used 2-nd gear the first time, it still popped out. Then the 2-nd time apart, I bought a new 2-nd gear and the synchronizer-hub.
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 02 May 2019 at 3:38am
LenThink I should of said "picking" instead of harvest. We had navel and valencia oranges, lemons, 3 varieties of avacados, pecans, and yucky cherimoyas. So we had picking season year round. The 2A had no rest. It only shows 42K miles on it but the motor had endless running hours on it since we left it running while picking up lug boxes, plowing, or changing sprinkler sets. good times!
The motor was rebuilt or replaced before 1960,
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepdidwhat
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 10:24pm
My Dualmatic hubs and muffler
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I have single lever hubs exactly like yours. Do you know the history on these or who made them? I did not find any manufacturer name markings.
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 12:02am
jeepdidwhat wrote:
My Dualmatic hubs and muffler
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I have single lever hubs exactly like yours. Do you know the history on these or who made them? I did not find any manufacturer name markings.
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Dualamatics(sP) strange hubs for sure. Made in mid-fiffties???? I think I posted a URL somewhere that gave thier history but I can't find it.. 
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepdidwhat
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 2:07pm
Dualamatics(sP) strange hubs for sure. Made in mid-fiffties???? I think I posted a URL somewhere that gave thier history but I can't find it..
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Do yours look like this inside?
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 4:17pm
That looks like them.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 16 May 2019 at 8:02pm
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Got a phone call today from a guy wanting to know if I wanted parts from a 1960 CJ-5. I could not say no! So off I went to see what he had. Ended up with a F head motor that has 43K miles on it and is fairly complete. 12V Starter is rebuilt....still has rebuilders shinny ID tag on it, Generator is 12V, 129 tooth flywheeland that is for the 8 1/2 inch plate...may drill it out for the 91/4 inch plate, a T-90 trans, and a few other items as well.
He has a open knucke D-30 diff and a D-44 diff that I may pick up.
Parts will make good trading material.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 18 May 2019 at 1:48am
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Hi guys
I am still thinking of using a F head motor until I can rebuild the L head correctly. I do understand that if using the stock carb set up, I would need to cut a hole in the hood. Don't panic guys!
I have an after market spare hood so no harm to the 2A hood would happen  .
Question: How much higher does the F head over the L head sit? I measuered my F head and L head heighth and came up with 2 inches. Is ths correct?
I have a 1971 Jeepster commando Hurst scoop that might look really cool.
Your input is needed
Thanks, Jim
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 19 May 2019 at 12:23am
If you cut the hood, will you still be able to fold down your windshield? For me that would be unthinkable to not drop the windshield. But that's just me.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 19 May 2019 at 1:02am
Ol' Unreliable wrote:
If you cut the hood, will you still be able to fold down your windshield? For me that would be unthinkable to not drop the windshield. But that's just me.
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Thought about that too.
Wondered if a 2" high scoop was installed and put taller hood/windshield blocks on, could the windshield lay down ok . I don't have a CJ 2A/3A to test this idea out.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 21 May 2019 at 4:31am
jeepsterjim wrote:
Wondered if a 2" high scoop was installed and put taller hood/windshield blocks on, could the windshield lay down ok . |
I think a scoop has to be mounted too far back on the hood and too
close to the bottom of the w/s for the w/s to clear without some
too-tall hood blocks. At least, most of the ones I've seen look that
way.
-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 29 May 2019 at 3:35am
Picked up a Husky O.D that was rebuilt by Herm the O.D Guy today. It has never been installed. Being leary, I called Herm and he stated that the Husky and Warn are good units and how much does the person want for it. Told him the price and Herm replied buy it, I did. This will be a great asset for the 2A.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 06 June 2019 at 12:22am
Special delivery to my shop4-NOS Superlift 1" lift springs with bushings.
These should work great for my 2A
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 07 June 2019 at 2:18am
Ol' Unreliable wears a set of those springs. 
-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 07 June 2019 at 3:40am
Ol' Unreliable wrote:
Ol' Unreliable wears a set of those springs.
|
Mike
How have they worked for you?
Would you put a military wrap on them?
I lucked out on obtaining these, and was able to trade Jeepster Commando parts for them. A win win for him and me.
Jim
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 07 June 2019 at 9:01pm
Swapped parts for a D-30 narrow track front diff and a 20 rear diff today. Had to take both or nadaWill rebuild the 30 and find a home for the 20.
Anyone have NOS 5:38 ring and pinion? rebuild kit? locker? for a D-30.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 09 June 2019 at 1:46am
jeepsterjim wrote:
How have they worked for you?
Would you put a military wrap on them? |
The springs are just a bit stiff when the Jeep's load is light, but with a little weight they're good enough for me.
I don't know how you would put a military wrap on them. I think they're strong enough to not need that anyway.
-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 09 June 2019 at 2:08am
Ol' Unreliable wrote:
jeepsterjim wrote:
How have they worked for you?
Would you put a military wrap on them? |
The springs are just a bit stiff when the Jeep's load is light, but with a little weight they're good enough for me.
I don't know how you would put a military wrap on them. I think they're strong enough to not need that anyway.
|
Thanks Mike, I'm just glad to find them.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 30 June 2019 at 4:08am
|
OK, I picked up the late salad L-134 motor for future rebuild but I came across other parts that I simply could not refuse to get.
Parts came out of a 1974 CJ-5 with 304 V-8. Owner gutted most of the drive train for rock crawling upgrades. He did keep the 304 block.
All 4 - CJ-5 springs, 304 V-8 fan, air cleaner, and intake
Rear hitch, 1/4 panels, 3 of 4 11" drums, tow bar.
exhaust manifolds, steering assembly, spring plates, and motorcraft carb
304 B/housing, T15 trans, D20 X-fer, oil canister, dash pad, and cam
Dana 44 centered rear diff Dana 30 narrow track frt. diff
Main items I want to use are the steering assembly and the D 30 Frt. end. Most parts will go on CL or trade for ? Not a bad day. Jim
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: Greaser007
Date Posted: 03 July 2019 at 6:31pm
OMG ! _ _ _ your Willys parts-prospecting has his Pay-Dirt. :)
If you keep gathering you'll have to start piling-it-up. hahahaha
So, now I am going to have to stop by my next trip to Sacramento. We'll have coffee while on "parts-tour" right !
I have run a model 20 amc rear in 4:10 forever with the 304 and T-18 6.3:1 with no problems what-so-ever. (before hitting the Rubicon trail, I would put a 3/4 breaker bar with 36-inch cheater pipe and give it a few Bounces for tightness, me standing on the cheater). :)
Hey, bring that bellhousing up to me and I will weld it, or braze it.
Or did you weld it already ?
When talking to my dad the other day, age 91, same as Norm the engine builder at Jimmy Strauss Jeeps, and we were talking welding Cast Iron, he told me that of all the mech's in town that he knew had good success welding cast was that they used a Cast-Rod. no flux, just bare cast rod. Just like the old trick of using 2-12v batteries and a coat-hanger. yep
I have a YouTube video bookmarked where the guy broke the flux off of 7018 rod and welded cast iron successfully.
Jim, nice work there guy on your innovative motor mount to be able to access the fuel pump bolts. I looked at my '46 pump bolts and because of the mount lip facing to the rear, the mount-bolt sticks up in the way of Access.
What time is Coffee !
Len
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 03 July 2019 at 7:57pm
Len
Coffee is brewing! Can you smell it? it's the axle/gear oil blend.
PLEASE do come by, lunch on me! We can tell stories, LOL
I did find a lot of jeep parts. Some for the 2A and the rest for trade or sell. Nice part is I have stuff to sift through for the "MONEY" pit.
I found two other late style bell housings so the cracked one can remain cracked or trade.
Motor mount idea came from bkwudz, Paul F. It should work well.
My summer goal is to find all the big parts for the 2A and get them built and ready to install this fall. Jim
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 11 July 2019 at 10:05pm
|
Meet a Jeepster Commando Pick Up guy awhile ago and we ended up telling stories which led to finding out he has a nice M38 that will be getting a V-6 stuffed in it. He mentioned that someone installed a F head in it with an odd carb set up that he removed and went back to the stock carb which led to having to put a hood scoop on.
I figured the ODD carb would of been a Holley 190???? and I would be glad to trade Commando parts for it.
Here is what he brought me.
CARTER SIDE DRAFT YH CARB POSSIBLY FROM A EARLY CORVETTE.
This is the Carter side draft carb and 90 degree elbow mod that's used on the F head when installed in a flat fender/hood Jeep. Never seen one before. Not sure if I will use it but it's cool to place on the shelf.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 13 July 2019 at 4:36am
I would use that just for the uncommon-ness of it!
-------------
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 13 July 2019 at 5:48am
Ol' Unreliable wrote:
I would use that just for the uncommon-ness of it!
|
I agree. Honestly thought the guy was bringing me a Holley 190? Think I will talk with Scout Pilot and see what it might take to rebuild it and maybe tweak it some. If not, it's certainly a conversation piece. The adapter looks well made. Wonder if it was used on another set up.
Jim
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 08 Nov. 2019 at 4:41am
|
Time to come back to my project page and make use of it.
I have cleaned up the 2nd Dana-44 19 spline off set diff and it looks good for building up. I still need to tear down the Power Lok for inspection. All in due time.
All the bearings are worn and need replacing. Along with the seals. QUESTION: Want to purchase quality bearings and seals, such as USA made Timken bearings. Who has them? You maybe? This diff needs ALL bearings and seals.
THANKS, JIM
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: Greaser007
Date Posted: 09 Nov. 2019 at 7:22pm
Jim,
I like your build-thread and all those new "parts-finds" you've acquired.
Well, you certainly do have ScoutPilot fired-up with that Carter YH side-draft.
You let me leave last month after lunch without the draw-bar. :(
But, i will be down your way again to visit the boys.
I will get some more Cast Iron welding practice because i took my GPW engine block to the machinist for hot tanking and inspection. OMG, not only does it have a crack above the distributor hole, but also a 5-inch long crack below the distributor hole also. He said they normally crack below.
You are so lucky to live where you do, and have a ready-supply of used jeep parts always coming up for sale within a 50-mile radius. (Rubicon Country) yep.
I will be by again, and hope to see you before the snow flies !!
Len
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 10 Nov. 2019 at 12:39am
|
Len
I bet that Jeep parts guy out in pestketona???? has a block or two. Saw a parts GPW for sale in Cottonwood last week.
Did you want that draw bar? I forgot that you did Will save it for ya. Draw bar=lunch
Spent the day with Grand daughters pulling out my fiberglass jeepster commando molds----time to part with'um 
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 15 Feb. 2020 at 12:39am
FOUND SOME MORE JUNK, I MEAN FANTASTIC ARTIFACTS THAT THE JEEP GODS SAID I HAD TO HAVE. I NEED TO STOP COLLECTING AND GET REBUILDING!!! JUST CAN'T HELP MYSELF. WHAT A TERRIBLE DISEASE 
'71 CJ-5 DANA 44 OFF SET FLANGED DIFF
NOT SURE----IS THIS A TRU LOK? OR IS IT TRAC LOK? OR???? LOOKS VERY CLEAN INSIDE BUT WILL NEED TO CHANGE R&P OUT TO 5:38'S.
WENT INTERNET SEARCHING AND IS THIS LOKCER A D44 30 SPLINE POWER LOK? FOUNDS PICS THAT SEEM A CLOSE MATCH.
GOT 5 WHEELS----THINK THEIR STOCK '71 CJ5 JEEP 15 X 6 X 5.5 STEEL WHEELS. SHOULD WORK WELL WITH A 750X15 NDT TIRE.....OPINIONS????
LAST THING, PICKED UP A PAIR OF '71 CJ5 FENDERS THAT WILL BE USED TO REMAKE FIBERGLASS INNER FENDER WELL MOLDS FOR JEEPSTER COMMANDOS, SOMEONE STOLE THE ONES I HAD 
THE GUY HAS A D27, D18, AND A ? TRANS THAT MUST GO. HOPE THE JEEP GODS WILL LEAVE ME ALONE!!!!!
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 23 Feb. 2020 at 3:33am
|
Picked up a D-18 X-fer, late model, and noticed it has a hole in the top of it. Is this normal for a late X-fer? The hole goes all the way into the case. This X-fer comes out of a '71 CJ-5
X-fer appears to be a big mouth case....here are the numbers I found on it.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 23 Feb. 2020 at 4:10am
|
Would that be where the vent goes? I have a mid 60's Transfercase and it has a big vent unit on the top.
-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 23 Feb. 2020 at 4:30am
Mark W. wrote:
Would that be where the vent goes? I have a mid 60's Transfercase and it has a big vent unit on the top.
|
It has a vent on the top right side. You can see it in this pic.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 09 Mar. 2020 at 2:40am
|
Instead of buying more parts, I worked on the 2A today and it felt good! My goal is to remove the body from the frame and give it a through steam cleaning, inspection, repair, and paint. The frame will go through the same process. For ease of body removal, I removed the Trans shifter and cover and found water had gotten into the case. Very disappointing! This 2A has spent 99% of its life garaged. Went ahead and drained the trans and X-fer which also had water in it
SEE PICS
notice the safety wire on the X-fer shift levers rod set screw.
Well I was going to make a trans cover out of a cereal box to keep debris out but it's a little late for that so I will let it remain open and dry out.
The second project was to remove the X-fer shifters and rod. This will also help in removing/installing the body. Decided to drill a hole in the trans tunnel so as to remove/install the X-fer shift rod easier and then will use a M38 cover plate to cover it.
well that's it for today.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 15 June 2020 at 2:10am
|
Been working on stripping the frame down to bare metal and look closely for cracks, bad welds, ETC.
In the near future I will show a few pics of what was discovered but for now I'm focusing on the worn out and broken shackle brackets and badly
grooved pivot brackets.
Here are some pics of what's going on.
Found 4 NOS shackles to replace the broken or worn shackles.
Found 4 USA made pivot brackets to replace the gouged/grooved original pivot brackets
Got one off, took sometime figuring out just "HOW" to remove the bracket without tearing up the frame. The other 7 will go much faster.
Cleans up well using a wire wheel and a grinding disc.
Just about ready to put the new Frt. shackle brackets on.
While cleaning the frame, my pneumatic 90 degree grinder died. Bought a AIRCAT and it is twice a powerful as the old one. Very pleased with it.
QUESTION: Since I had to drill out the rivets that held the brackets on to the frame, I found the holes are neither 3/8 nor 7/16. The hole is just shy of 7/16 What did some of you do? use rivets? drill out to 7/16? Grade 5 or 8 bolts.
Once bolted on, I will weld the brackets a little better then the factory chicken track welds.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 17 June 2020 at 4:00am
|
Did more dissecting of the frame. No more worn out or broken spring hanger brackets.
Have about 3 days of cleaning of the frame left and then comes installing the new hangers and welding areas that need it.
Found that the rivets and the rivet holes were 13/32 which is darn near 7/16 so I'm simply going to resize all frame and bracket holes to 7/16. Will use grade 8 fine thread bolts and once the brackets are snug I will weld them up. Still have to straighten out the rear cross member and a few other things before applying paint. Slow progress but it's progress.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: Steelyard Blues
Date Posted: 18 June 2020 at 12:02am
|
One of the vendors was selling a "rivet" kit. It was threaded and had a special nut that broke off when torqued down leaving the look of an original rivet. I looked all over for you. I know I saw it. I just cannot recall where. Maybe someone else on the list recalls who sells them. Micah EDIT I found an eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-MB-GPW-Special-Imitation-Rivet-Bolt-Set-For-Rear-Crossmember-G-503-/172078298349" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-MB-GPW-Special-Imitation-Rivet-Bolt-Set-For-Rear-Crossmember-G-503-/172078298349
-------------
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981
1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 18 June 2020 at 12:41am
MicahThanks for looking into the replacement rivets.
I saw the rivet kit but am leary of it for some reason. Since I'm not into a true restro I'm simply using standard grade 8 fine thread nuts and bolts and also weld the bracket sides to the frame.
Again, thanks for looking into the rivets!!!!
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 25 June 2020 at 9:25pm
|
Now that the frame is cleaned up, it's time to dig in and address a few issues. Already removed the spring shackle and pivot brackets and ready to install the new ones. Will go over the frame and re-weld ? as needed. Am amazed as to how bad the welds are.
NOW here's a head scratch'er The rear passenger side shock mount is not straight up and down. Please see pics-----first 5 are the passenger side-----next ONES are the driver side.
Though the PASSENGER SIDE shock mount "post" looks straight, it's because I bent it straight, THEN I noticed that the shock mount bracket was tweaked. Is the frame tweaked or is this a Monday or Friday built frame?
I added pics of the drivers side bracket for comparison.
pic 1
pic 2 PIC 3
PIC 4 PIC 5
pic 6 DRIVERS SIDE BRACKET
pic 7
PIC 8
Do you think the frame is bent or the bracket was welded wrong? Your thoughts are appreciated.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 28 June 2020 at 1:18am
NO ONE has a thought?
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: Joe Friday
Date Posted: 28 June 2020 at 1:32am
|
OK, thought. Those look like they may have been replaced, and it not, someone ran a set of 'skyjacker' air shocks on it and overloaded the shock mounts.
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 28 June 2020 at 2:16am
Joe Friday wrote:
OK, thought. Those look like they may have been replaced, and it not, someone ran a set of 'skyjacker' air shocks on it and overloaded the shock mounts. |
WOW, thanks for responding!
This 2A basically was a work horse in the orchards and never was used off-road. YET. It's been around me since age 10 so the 2A's past history is known.
No Skyjackers, It still has the original Monroe shocks. NOT FOR SALE
inner rear fenders wells show no tire rubbing from being over loaded or off road abuse. No bent springs nor broken spring leaves.
This 2A has spacers between the frame and the rubber diff stops. I guess to limit spring squatting.
all four brackets are welded the same. All brackets are the same style.
I'm concerned as to is the frame bent or was the bracket simply welded wrong straight out of the factory. PUZZLING!
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: Joe Friday
Date Posted: 28 June 2020 at 3:37am
Does this frame show signs of ever having a reinforcement plate for a 50 caliber machine gun?
If so, maybe it was one of the MB frames modified by the plant to build CJ2A's on. If so there would be other signs like extra skid plate cross member holes and body mounts that would have been moved and have sloppy welds.
|
Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 28 June 2020 at 3:38am
Those welds look sketchy enough to be done by me.
-------------
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 28 June 2020 at 4:02am
|
No evidence of 50 Cal plate or reinforcement.
The whole frame is poorly welded. Really surprised it held up. Since the frame is cleaned up, I'll be re-welding the frame as needed.
I'm amazed at the lack of quality control if this shock mount bracket left the plant this way but may be it did. A true late Friday built frame
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 28 June 2020 at 10:24pm
The verdict is in-------
I had two 'lifer' body and frame men come by today and after a length of time they determined the frame is straight. They found the every shock mount was off but NOT as bad as the one I had in question. All four shock mount "posts" were not straight either so by using 3/4" x 24" pipe and leverage, we got all four within reason. We left the bent bracket as is and simply bent the post straight.
Conclusion....this frame was made either on Friday afternoon or Monday morning.
THANKS GUYS for your help, Jim
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 09 July 2020 at 1:48am
|
Got the 8 spring brackets replaced and spent over 6 hours straightening the rear crossmember into useable condition. I still need to reweld parts of the frame and then apply a 3 stage KBS treatment to it.
See pics
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 09 July 2020 at 11:43pm
|
OK, you Gurus I found numbers located on my D-44 rear diff and am curious as to what the numbers mean/represent. production? Type of Diff? or???
Pic-1 Pic-2
Pic-3
Please let me know what this diff is, THANKS
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 13 July 2020 at 3:04am
|
Worked on cleaning up the rear D-44 rear flanged diff. Did not find abuse, just well worn parts. Will need a full bearing and seal kit along with a 5.38 thick R&P.
see pic.
 Will have to replace the stock yoke with a 26 spline one. I did clean out all the threaded holes with a 5/16 or a 1/2 NC end tap. Cleaned out the tubes with a bottle brush style hone.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 15 July 2020 at 8:41pm
|
Finally found a Power Lock series 4 for the D-30. The buyer mentioned that it had a broken left hand thread grade 8 bolt that needed removal. Since I don't have left handed anything I took the part to two machine shops and neither were comfortable with doing the job. This sucks! However, one told me to get a hold of a guy that does "SINK EDM" say what? The machine shop owner showed me the process and I was blown away at how it all works. Very high tec. It's darn expensive but he referred me to a guy that's fair priced. Mailed it out and got it back within a week and the only way I know what hole was worked on was due to being marked by the machinist. He never even had to retap the hole. I am impressed! His price was way fair.
Here's a link that shows the process...... http://sacedm.com/" rel="nofollow - http://sacedm.com/ https://www.clearcreekent.com/" rel="nofollow - https://www.clearcreekent.com/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnmdrROssZM" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnmdrROssZM
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 19 July 2020 at 2:10am
MYSTERY SOLVEDThrough persistent research and fun, fellow forum member Joe Friday solved the shock mystery. Not only do I have this type of bracket, so does forum member Buckeye.
Buckeye's shock bracket
My 2A's bracket
And now where these brackets came from.
A-485 ) Upper Rear Right Shock Mount for 1941-1945 Jeep Willys MB, not for Ford GPW
Check the video out that Joe found
h http://ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UF3Tfh1pZZk" rel="nofollow - ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UF3Tfh1pZZk
It appears Willys simply used shock brackets on hand OR what the Gov't had left over. Sound familiar?
A HUGE THANKS TO JOE FOR SOLVING THIS AND GIVING US ANOTHER WILLYS HISTORY LESSON
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 22 July 2020 at 10:50pm
|
Working on a Power Lok series 3 for a D-44 flanged 30 spline axle. Was asked to post pics to see the good and bad with the unit.
Pic-1 is showing how the case bolts have been gulled badly. All but one are scored. When removing them tiny shavings came out with them. Shavings looked like what one would see when taping a hole. Also saw a few flakes of harden metal. Cleaned, retaped, and inspected all the case holes and see no damage....ODD. Wonder if the two case's were tight.
Never seen lock washers used on a Power Lok before.
Pics's of cross shafts wear.
casing wear----crossshaft wear in the case has left a slight lip.....good? bad? Simply file lip flush?
Crossshaft/case wear
rough case casting----found no ID numbers stamped into casing.
case casting looks rough.
This Power Lok has RAISED lettering and numbers-----is it a genuine Power Lok?
Here is another Power Lok with the lettering and numbers stamped in.
If these parts look good, I will post more for viewing.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: uncamoney
Date Posted: 22 July 2020 at 11:01pm
Power Locks are generally quite bullet proof but I broke all of the bolts in mine. I found all the parts in an old Internatial pick up. It is still working
-------------
john
|
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 22 July 2020 at 11:51pm
Jim, I’m having tech problems right now and now with no pic uploads. I’ll comment when I can see what you got.
-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 23 July 2020 at 12:35am
oldtime wrote:
Jim, I’m having tech problems right now and now with no pic uploads. I’ll comment when I can see what you got. |
No Hurry, I have plenty to do.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 23 July 2020 at 1:07am
|
O.K. got my issue resolved. Phone was only running on 2G.
So the one Powr Lok appears to be some after market copy of the genuine DS unit. That may account for the buggered threads and the scores located on the shoulders of the case bolts. Another possibility is that someone rotated the case halves 180* from proper orientation and that misalignment scored the bolt shoulders. Realize that the case halves were machined together as a set and need be re-assembled accordingly. DS Powr Loks use no lock washers. I see little wear on the pinion mate cross shafts but they too look to be aftermarket. The crital concern there is that the pinion mate gears have minimal play on the shaft. A small amount of wear on the pinion mate shafts and the case ramp face is acceptable.
-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 23 July 2020 at 1:53am
|
OK, glad your up and running. the "ramp" is the V area that the shaft rides in? two pics show wear but if not to bad can one simply file the worn part down flush?
I was amazed at how much filing debri came out of the threaded holes. Before dissembling, the two case pieces looked to have a very wide gap. Like maybe the unit was not tighten up correctly. I was also looking for alignment markings. Instead I found over 5 punch random punch marks so I made a straight across marks with a sharp chisel. Unti still may be out 180 but not from me, LOL.
I have a series 4 P/L but it's a 19 spline unit. Wonder if changing out the 19 spline gears to the 30 spline would give a better unit then this after-market one. regardless, I still would need a new clutch pak.
I will post pic of the other half of the case and the clutch pak asap.
OH----looked into those P/L's for the d-27's-----all are right hand thread. KRAP! still might be worth getting for the clutch pak, cross shats, and cones. herm wants around 350.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
|
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 23 July 2020 at 2:20am
|
You can find old stock DS clutch packs for $120 Those bolts possibly came that way from the aftermarket mfg. along with the tap shavings ? Can you post pic of a bolt head so I can see the markings ? I have never filed on any of the ramps. I would leave em be unless deep gouged. If case halves are misaligned 180* upon re-assembly you can easily tell because the bolts will begin to bind long before they are tight.
-------------
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts
|
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 23 July 2020 at 4:15am
looks as if Nitro gear maybe selling this P/L look alike unit. At their site one can see that the case bolts have star washers. No ID numbers though.
-------------
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 23 July 2020 at 10:17pm
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OK, here's the bolts as requested. Also shows the other half of the case. You can see the wear pattern in the "V" area as well.
On the bottom machined area there are indents from?
the bolts along with the other half of the case has the letters AM in them. Nitro gear maybe the ones selling this unit. I am trying to contact them but keep getting their answering machine.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 25 July 2020 at 1:25am
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OK more pics
This is a 30 spline set up for a series 3. This is a "AFTER MARKET" OVERSEAS MADE P/L. Fits a 1971 D-44 flanged 30 spline rear diff
Wear looks OK?????
showing 30 spline gear going through "hub?" Is this the same set up as what Spicer P/L has?
Pic...shows gears.....are the gears good?
Pics of spined gears and back to "HUB?" is this the same gears as SPICER P/L?
More gears pics.....any good?
Input is important since all the above parts are made overseas.
Knowing if Spicer Dana P/L parts can interchange is important too.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 25 July 2020 at 1:34am
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Pic show front and back side of what I call a hub/cup....ya it's not correct, LOL
Clutch pack Left side clutches are from a genuine Spicer P/L------ right side clutches are the overseas version They look the same BUT the 2 cone washers on the overseas version are nearly flat.
It does appear that a Spicer clutch pack would work.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 25 July 2020 at 2:06am
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Never saw any case bolts like those before. The case ramps look like normal wear to me but the casting gouges on the clutch face are not typical. DS 30 spline Model 44 Powr Loks used two different styles of side gear. The one from early 1960’s we’re 2 piece side gears plus the side gear cup. Later DS versions have 1 piece side gears as shown in your pic. Most side gear wear is noted where the gear teeth contact the cup AKA cup gouges. Your pinion mate gears and side gears look in really good shape from what I can see. If you have no deep striations not any fingernail deep scratches on the clutch plates they are acceptable for further service.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 25 July 2020 at 2:42am
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Here's a better pic of the clutch plates. upper center is the cone and one of the two plates is supposed to be cone shaped too.....both are darn flat.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 25 July 2020 at 2:47am
oldtime wrote:
Never saw any case bolts like those before.The case ramps look like normal wear to me but the casting gouges on the clutch face are not typical. DS 30 spline Model 44 Powr Loks used two different styles of side gear. The one from early 1960’s we’re 2 piece side gears plus the side gear cup. Later DS versions have 1 piece side gears as shown in your pic. Most side gear wear is noted where the gear teeth contact the cup AKA cup gouges. Your pinion mate gears and side gears look in really good shape from what I can see. If you have no deep striations not any fingernail deep scratches on the clutch plates they are acceptable for further service. |
This P/L was made in India. Some say randy's differential made them but one can find them for sale through Nitro Gear for under 600.00. Still trying to find out how well they hold up. Nobody down here has parts OR don't know that Spicer parts will work.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 31 July 2020 at 8:51pm
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I needed a clutch pack and cross shafts for the P/L 4 series uint that will go into the D-30 Frt. diff. Found aftermarket overseas stuff but proved expensive and there is that quality issue. QTM had NOS series 4 P/L units for the D-25/27's at a fair price and the clutch pack and cross shaft is "suppose" to be the same as the D-30's P/L. I bought one and SAVED a good a amount of cash and came out with NOS parts. A win win deal for me.
The unit looks near in perfect shape.
Came with the manual and sticker. One more step closer!!!!! MAYBE
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299
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