With my setup the trans and bell will need to be bolted together before installation. This doesn't bother me too much I never heard of pulling the engine or body to change a transmission until this year. Ive changed a few cj2a t90s and I always left the bell attached. The t18 will be a bigger and heavier but I will get her in there.  

Keep up the good work.... I will be following! 

My understanding is that the T-18 innards can be installed into the T-98 case.

Yes all T98/18  cases can interchange so long as you don't cross between the 1978/1979 design change.

Interrupted cuts (like cutting away splines) in hardened material are the hardest on cutters.  You need carbide for the hardened steel and carbide hates interrupted cuts (it's brittle and it will chip away).  As you note, taking light cuts is the way to keep the tool from breaking, so you need to take it slow.  Machine shops don't want to take that much time (and you probably wouldn't want to pay the $100(?)/hour shop rate for them to take 2 hours doing it either.  But it can definitely be done if you're willing to take the time (and you could probably get a shop to do it if you tell them to take their time and you'll pay their full rate!).

Actually cutting splines, or worse yet, gear teeth, involves tighter tolerances.  A lot of machine shops might not accept a job to make splines (and very few will agree to cut gears).  But as Seth is pointing out, a company that regularly splines shaft can be a good option!

Been there, done that   And when you're flustered after hitting reverse it's pretty easy to overshoot when going back for 3rd and grabbing the non-synchroed 1st!

My '75 CJ5 had the "over and up" reverse T-18 (close ratio).  There's a spring that you need to compress to get the shifter into the reverse shift fork... unless that spring is broken, like it was when I bought that Jeep.  Fortunately I was able to replace the spring.  Never made that "2 to R" speed shift again after that!

That said there are many small shift tower differences over the years.

Those changes include such things as:

Casting lug differences.

Shift fork to rail fastening system (safety wired bolts vs. spring pins)

Shift fork sleeves

Additions for reverse back-up light switches of various designs and other additional switches.

Many different shapes and lengths of shift levers.

Read these till they sink in...

This one first...

T18 6.32 ratio must have 17 tooth maindrive gear (input shaft)

The mainshaft gear (output) must match whatever input gear you are planning to use and that will vary  depending on TC  ratio. 

Mainshaft to maindrive pilot bearings size depends upon the make . IH Ford Jeep or other.

T18 Input shaft diameter to 134 depends on clutch hub diameter you plan to use.

T18 Input shaft length to 134 depends on method used to mate T18 to bellhousing

T18 input bearing retainer also depends onn method used to mate T18 to bellhousing

L134 can only accept a driven disk with 15/16" hub @ 8-1/2" / 9-1/4" diameter .

Will also accept 1-1/8" driven disk hub  at 9-/14" diameter

Some of the internals are identical and many are different.

By the way unlike many I actually prefer using the Jeep version T98 and T18's.

So that includes 1979 vintage but generally not the 1978 vintage.

If you want the reverse gear over and down position you will want one of the 1979 or later T18's regardless of make.

The T18 A is generally considered as the most desire-able  CJ transmission ever.

It was not installed in 1976 but it was available in 1977, 1978 and 1979 and perhaps some 1980 CJ's.

The 1979 has the updated style of case.

Myself much prefer the 1977 and 1978 versions because interchange parts are much more readily available.

That said you can easily take any Jeep T18 transmission and change out the mainshaft to fit engines other than AMC.

So yes J truck and some Wagoneer transmissions are often more abundant and can be very desirable.

Jeep used the Dana 300 TC beginning in 1980. 

So 1980 Jeeps do not have "TEXAS" pattern.

IH still used Texas pattern tranmission and TC in 1980 but not in 1981.

They used a D300 with Texas pattern for 1 year only.

It is considered by many as the"most desirable" transfer case.

No Len I'm certainly no expert.  

I just like texting this stuff out so that I don't forget. Ha Ha Ha !

The mainshaft pilots are also of different diameters.

I called Novak several weeks ago and got right through to customer service. The guy I talked to was quite helpful and was able to answer all my questions. I ordered my parts from them online last weekend. I had an email from them Monday with a receipt and a FedEx tracking number. I should have it all tomorrow!

Sorry you’re having trouble getting to Novak. I’m pretty sure they have always been in Utah, or at least as long as I’ve been dealing with them for the last 5 or 6 years. 
 

This is VERY nice and exactly how I would have approached this particular bellhousing modification.

I suggest you radius the corner when done and scallop the two sides to give a factory look.

Use 1/8" rod @ 55% nickle and it will be best to weld it using AC.

Does your pipeliner do AC ? Not likely....

I've welded several Jeep transmission cases and also Jeep cast steel adapter plates that way with excellent results.

You don't want to vee the casting all the way though. 

Leave about 1/8" without vee for your root pass.

Casting can always be vee'd from other side if need be after you lay in the root pass.

This related article shows an adapter I made using a Jeep casting...

http://earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/t15-to-dauntless.124841/" rel="nofollow - http://earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/t15-to-dauntless.124841/

For starters lets talk about the various T98/T18 transmissions and their cases in general .

As you know these old BW T98 and T18 were used on most anything back in the day. 

Forklifts, log skidders you name it. 

Some of them had very unusual parts like all the gears being cut at reverse angles and so forth.

So to much simplify I'll prefer we keep it to the big 3 automotive users. Ford, IH and Jeep.

Ford cases are all divorced from any transfer case so none will have a use able 6 spline main shaft for D18 /D20 applications.

Essentially all Jeep and IH have correct 6 spline main shaft  that is required.

Both Jeep and IH models also have the D18/20 adapter plate but the IH plate always clocks the transfer case downward as compared to the Jeep rear adapter plate. 

Myself I find the IH rear adapter plates to be essentially worthless.

The rear of the Ford casting must always be re-drilled to accept a rear adapter plate.

The front of the Ford casting can usually be redrilled to accept GM bellhousings.

The front of IH and Jeep castings can have ears welded onto them so that the transmission may be bolted direct to most any bellhousing.

Welding ears onto a Jeep casting is my preferred method for mating one to a GM bellhousing.

For mating a T98-A to a Willys bellhousing my preferred method is to use the factory bellhousing adapter plate. 

But on the downside that adds another 7/8" to the drive train OAL.

PTO port for Jeep and IH are always on the left where it can be accessed if desired.

For Ford (except T19) its always on the left and so the transfer case interferes with using it.

Otherwise T98 and T18 cases are usually swap able except the big difference between pre and post 1978 versions.

 

IS there a mainshaft that can be mated to the T-98 input shaft ?

Yes both Jeep and IH main shafts can be used in place of the longer Ford main shafts.

The Jeep T98/T18 or the IH T98/T18 is required to mate the transmission to a D18/D20.

I believe most all the Jeep/IH 6 spline mainshafts are virtually identical.

T98's used a castellated nut on the rear while later T18's used an ESNA (AKA nylok) nut.

I ask because all I know is that the hole in the back of the Ford T-98 and in the back of the Scout T-18 were slightly different diameters.

 

That will effect the size of bearing that can be used. 

Normally the T98/T18 uses a 308 series bearing.

I'm not familiar with any of the early Ford T98 cases using bearings other than the 308 series.

Even the earliest Jeep T98 used the 308 series for rear output as shown below

If you have an IH 4.02 about the only thing worth keeping is the main shaft including the large seal bushing and end nut.

You have a old Ford T98 and an IH with 4.02 gears. 

The only parts that directly interchange are the shift tower assemblies.

The PTO covers, the internal reverse shift lever and the countershaft including the needles.

You certainly will need yet another T98 or T18 to make this happen.

To mate to any D18 or D20 you must use either the IH or the Jeep 1-3/8" @ 6 spline main shaft.

You can use either the T98 or a T18 main shaft and that alone will designate this as either being a T98 or T18 transmission.

T98 main shafts all have a much smaller maindrive pilot than do the T18's.

You will never mate a T18 main shaft into a T98 maindrive regardless of the pilot needle count/diameter.

I suppose it may be possible to reduce the T18 main shaft pilot diameter down to fit into the smaller bore T98 maindrive but you would go through the pilot tip case hardening to remove that much diameter.

And besides the T18 mainshaft will never accept the needle rollers to go under the 2nd speed gear.

So trying to swap a T18 maindrive into a T98 transmission is totally impractical.

From my experience the only internal gears that can be swapped between T18 and T98 is the reverse idler gear. 

And that swap is very questionable as it must include the correct sliding gear. 

Yes even the big 1st reverse sliding gears are different. 

That 1st reverse sliding gear alone is the reason why a T98 has 6.40 ratio while the T18 has a 6.32 ratio.

I swapped them around one time a few years back but did not like the way the small gear at rear of the counter shaft mated to the interchanged sliding gear.

I felt that particular swap could initiate 1st and reverse problems over time.

Got that ?

So bottom line is your going to need more parts then you can figure on either building a T98 or a T18 not both.

Her's a pic of the very long 1-1/8" diameter T18 maindrive from J truck.

Have you had the chance to talk with Travis from WFO?  Very knowledgeable guys.  WFO is above Auburn on 49.

Jim

I Knew it! The moment I saw your template

Fun project.

Why not drill and tap the T18 case to match the T90 bellhousing pattern? Bolt them together from the inside into one unit prior to install onto the engine.

You now may be the owner of the first, the one and perhaps only..... Ford transmission to Willys 134 bellhousing.

It's was strange to see a link to the old American Jeepster club.  Brought back good memories of friends and events.  Nothing cooler then having 50 plus Jeepsters/Commandos hitting the trails.

I spent a great deal of thought-time and $$$ putting together this T-18 to L134 package.

I must say, i have really enjoyed the challenge of attempting my own conversion.  This dream so to speak may hopefully be finished in 2021.   And yes, guys, hopefully before i begin pushing up daisies.

    I hope to remove the cylindrical bosses with a diamond wheel.

    This is looking at the passenger side front at top of tan Scout T-18 trans case.

     This photo shows the cylindrical boss to be removed from Scout trans case.

     I may wind up sectioning out and welding in a new piece for Bolt-Clearance.

So the fit of the front bearing retainer "coffee cup coaster" is too tight to easily slide into the hole in the modified bellhousing.  I will consult my machinist to see what he recommends to loosen the tolerances somewhat.

In my absence of 14-months from this project, i have bee doing some Pondering.   yep, what to do.

Yesterday, Wednesday, Jan. 06, 2021, i heated up the L134 mod bell on the fireplace hearth so it would expand and slide over the indexing "coffee cup coaster" adapter.  I then took a few photos to show which bosses must be cut off of the IH Scout T-18 case to make room for new "ears" to be welded on with Nickel rod.   Fun stuff indeedie !!!     

     Yes, i have been having no failures or cracking with Harris 99 nickel electrode in 3/32" diameter.

    Looking at this photo, i plan to weld a mounting 'ear' from a donor bell housing to the top and bottom of the tan Scout trans case.

The "planned" new transmission mounting 'ears' will be cut out of the donor Ford truck bell housing.

Each 'ear' will be custom fit with generous V-grooving for purchase area of the filler bead.

I have finally decided to give this concept a good old re-boot kick-start.

      More later !!

      Len

     will do  !!    I have been looking at this project each time i enter my shop.

     I had to get a Covid test at the local community college.

Then helped a buddy move his body working tools of 40-years.

Installed a brake light switch in my '78 Ford van.

    Then,  finally, late afternoon, i broke out the IH Scout T-18 transmission for 'alteration' time.

Hahaha,   the motive today was to make an honest attempt to cut those big round casting bosses off of the upper front sides of the case.   I began in good-faith with my trusty 4-1/2" diamond blade.

    Ok,  i got off to a good start, and then the deeper the cut, the slower the going.   Ugha Bugha

      I got so far, i then changed up to my Saws-All for good tidings.

Well,  the best of the good tidings wound up being about 1-full-hour of tedious slow cutting.

    I got it  !!!

Geesh, one hour of True-Grit wishing that sawsall on through the cut.

I actually did most of the cutting with the bellhousing in place for better holding grip.

     Scarfed off of there and ready for my next chance to tackle the driver's side nodules.

Once i get the nodules scarfed off, then i can focus on shaping the case for accepting new transmission ears.

I have two choices:

1.  find a core transmission for donor mounting ears.

2.  cut donors out of what is left over from my donor Ford bellhousing.    hmmm   scratching _ _ _

Well, guys,  my oldest daughter phoned earlier and she has a chance to go skiing tomorrow, so her and I will be Outa Here minyana.    No work on the T-18 for maybe the weekend.

Life does really get in the way of hobby progress sometimes, but !

The worst day on the ski hill is better than a day in the office _ _ _ or shop.    LoL

I had better go by Pick-n-Pull recycler's soon and see about a donor trans case for "Ears."

       I'm already dreading cutting the other side.  Maybe i shall try a metal cut-off wheel for my 6-1/2" skil saw for quicker cutting.    Any thoughts ?   The skil saw just seems like an accident in the making.

      Until next time  !!

Maybe 5 minutes using a small angle grinder and 4” cut off wheel.

       

Stuff like this amazes me where by numbers and measurements the concept should work.

Today, guys are making adapters to put small diesel engines into older Willys.  Go guys !!

       All of us restoring an old Willys must get creative often with simple items like brackets for mounting one component to another.    Simple brackets can take hours of fabrication and fitting.

      Anyway,  i have been planning on attaching Ken's modified adapter plate to shorten it.  Very cool.

      Speaking of adapter's,  i have an adapter with no name case into it but it has numbers.  This particular adapter will adapt a New Process 205 transfer case to a Ford C6 with 2wd tailshaft.

We all know 2wd transmissions are a dime a dozen.   It came out of a wrecked Quadra-Van 4x4, late '70's vintage.

The post details how I made my own T15 adapter plate from the Jeep T86AA / T14 adapter.

So I’m nearly outta my ability to do any pic posts.

Maybe half of the “My Willys Pics” I take will upload and that’s it.

    Here is what I do to save photos:

    Download with patch cord from digital camera to my HP Pavillion laptop.  Then copy from laptop to a Flash-drive (thumb drive).  16-gig flash-drives are cheap and reliable for storage.

    Or, now using my Iphone exclusive, i email the photo's in whatever batch size the phone will allow to send to my email.  (5-photos per batch).    Now from my email on my laptop, i save to my hard-drive, and then Save to Flash-drive.    

     Note:    Save all photos from one Flash-drive to another !  _ _ _ for a BACK-UP COPY.

     i don't yet understand the Cloud or One-Drive, but internet storage space costs  $$$$$$$ 

     Ok -  here goes:

Yep,  Jan. 10, 2021, i bolt the L134 bellhousing back on to the Scout T-18 trans case to investigate just how many modifications i must do to allow Bolt and Wrench Clearance for new mounting ears.   Drat !

Way-too-many cuts and recessed wall pieces in 4 locations.

Also, on the driver's side is a PTO cover which would need mod's too.  So, for time and sanity, i am officially SCRAPPING the idea of modifying the Scout case, and will drill and tap the 3 holes necessary in the rear face of the Ford T-98 case for the Scout t-case adapter plate.    

    This photo shows the extent of side wall of Scout trans case which would have to be recessed for bolt and wrench clearance.  There is clearance to weld in a new wall piece of steel bar stock on the inside wall of the case, and weld it in from the outside giving sufficient clearances.

I'm not going to spend 2-weeks cutting, fitting and making ears to be welded in place.

The welding would go quickly, but the fabbing and fitting of recess pieces and trans ears is prohibitive at this point.  (guess i'm not hungry enough).     hahahaha

 

    In this photo of the Ford T-98 case, you can see how deep the recesses are for bolt & wrench clearance.    Wow,  mucho recessed areas.

     I could use a segment of black pipe to create these recessed areas in the IH Scout case, but with having to do this for 4-locations, and fabbing up 4-new Ears for mounting, i decided
"Screw-the-Idea" of modifying the Scout case to bolt to the Ford pattern on the L134 modified bell housing.

   

    So, using a 3-lb short handled mallot i gave the Ford T-98 cluster-gear shaft a good rap on the front.   Both the cluster-gear shaft and reverse-idler are driven out from Front to Rear !!

    I had looked through my misc pipe collection and did find a piece of aluminum tube the correct diameter to run through the Cluster Gear to keep all of the needle bearings in place.

    I drove the cluster shaft out very carefully, and with a 6x6 block of wood backer on the out-going end of the shaft to prevent it from jumping out ahead of my needle-retaining aluminum pipe.  I drove the shaft out with a punch longer than the aluminum pipe neddle retainer.

     Driving the T-98 Cluster-Gear shaft Out slowly from front to rear.

    Take note of the position of the Cluster Thrust Washers !!

    The thrust washers have tabs to index them to both the cluster gear and the trans case.  Look closely and keep everything in order if possible.    Don't loose sleep, because there are only two on the rear.

     Here is something I have learned:    I hate to fess up, but like many of us, i dove into this whole T-18 to L134 dream with mostly Ziltch Planning so i didn't know there were so many Differences !!

First off, i had purchased the Ford T-98 transmission from a supposed '65 F-250 4x4 pickup, along with the divorced transfer case and a bellhousing.   This must have been 2011, and picked them up as Spare-Parts for my early Ford collectibles.

     My oldest owned collectible Ford Pickup was a '66 Factory 4-door cab which i bought in 1992.

I have a '66 F-110 heavy duty long bed single cab 4x4 (first year of coil-spring front suspension on the half-ton Ford 4x pickups.

My other is a '61 Ford F-110 4x4 conversion long bed step-side pickup i bought from the original owner's son back in 1991.    Ha    I tend to keep goodies for decades.    hahahaha

     Ok _ _ _ enough already,  and back to topic.   Well, let's see here:

     One thing i will mention -   once the Reverse-Idler shaft is removed, consider grinding a recess in the front face to hold a punch in place for future removal if the 'need' arises.   Someone had done this to the end of the T-98 reverse idler shaft.   This shaft is a Booger to knock loose, as was the cluster shaft too.

     The following photo will show the holes in the rear face of the Ford T-98 2wd trans case.

Three of the 5 holes for the 2wd tail-shaft housing do index properly with the IH Scout transfer-case adapter plate.   Good News  !!    _ _ _  i can use all good news available for a confidence Boost.

 

           IH Scout T-18 case on left (creme)  -    Ford T-98 truck case on right (gray)

     Note:   I have gone through my shop and wired description tags to my engines, transmissions and transfer cases.   I have done this so if i die unexpectedly, my wife will know what is what.

Believe me,  all of my automotive collection means Nothing to my wife.   If i croak, she'll probably just find someone willing to haul it all off in truckloads.    Hopefully some young buck will put it to use.

      So, the two large holes on the top of the adapter plate are 7/16" NC thread, and are needed to be drilled and threads tapped into the Ford T-98 trans case rear face.

Also same for one 3/8" NC hole on the right side of the mainshaft bearing.

In the above photo, the tan IH Scout case, and on right is the Ford T-98 2wd case.

    Drilling the pilot hole for the two 7/16" bolts.   

    There is a Story i must share about this Montgomery Wards "power-craft" drill press   read on.

    In 1984 i had purchased a Novak T-18 Adapter kit to install into my '77 Jeep AMC CJ-7 Renegade.

The Renegade package came with a 304 V-8 engine,  factory GM tilt-wheel and Saginaw Power Steering, front power disc brakes and an AMC model 20 rear axle assembly with Posi and 4.10 gears.

My wife, girlfriend in 1983, and i went in search of the famous Rubicon Jeep Trail with another couple.

Yep, we found the trail and ran it through from Wentworth Springs to Homewood on Lake Tahoe.

The Jeep was traveling wayyy tooo fast even with 4:10 gearing and 3-spd t-150 trans.

So that was the reason for a T-18 Novak conversion back then.   The cj-7 with T-18 took me in and out of that grueling trail each summer until i quit doing it in 2001.

  Yep, i love that T-18 !!  :)

I restored a '46 2A in winter of 1983 and 84 and ran the '46 through the Rubicon in '84 and '85.  Along came our son, and the '46 got sold.   It too traveled the Rubicon trail way too fast even with 5:38's.

    Really,  the Renegade package had all the Goodies most people add after the fact.

Some Renegades were available with an automatic trans (Chrysler 727 no less).

I am relaying this info for you reader's who aren't savvy with the '77 and '78 Renegade and Eagle packages.

    Back to the 1984 "Story":

    The Novak kit also required drilling and tapping threads in the back of the T-18 2wd case just similar to what i must do to the current T-98 today.

My Montgomery Ward drill press "was" an electronic Variable-Speed hummer.   I had bought it at a yard sale of course, back in the late '70's while a young enthusiast.

Now, when needing to tap the threads, i got this 'hair-brain' idea, to set the drill press on the slowest speed, and if it stalled out, i could help it cut with a helping hand.   Not a good idea !!

What happened was the Drill Press stalled out, and burned up the circuit board.   I promptly took the drill press to the local Industrial Electric shop, and Jerry told me i am out of luck.  The circuit boards were obsolete back then.  The boards were dipped in a thick epoxy, so no way to tell what was what.

Nowadayz, my drill press runs at Mach-Zip like a router.   Full bore high speed.

Hey,  here i am 36 years later drilling holes for another T-18 Jeep Conversion for a L-134 Willys.

     Oh yeah, another screw up too, was purchasing the Scout trans not knowing it was a 4:1 granny.

     If looking at the rear of the Scout and Ford cases,  I will need to plug the holes not needed.

And i have to check the protrusion of the Cluster Shaft and Reverse Idler Shaft later on.

      Hope you enjoy guys.    I am happy to answer any questions.

      Until next time _ _ _ _  

Clearly shows why the IH units are so hard to convert over to Jeep and Gm patterns.

My Ford T-98 came from a mid-sized (2 to 5 ton) Ford Truck.   It has 9/16"  bolts holding the trans case to the bell housing flange that I welded to the Willys L-134 bell.   Remember, the front bearing retainer properly indexes everything, so the trans can be rotated as needed until things are welded up.

Well, it wasn't until i got the Ford truck bell housing mounting flange all cut out for slipping over the Willys L-134 bell housing, and determining what bolt size i needed to buy, when i realized: Wow, those are larger than the 1/2" bolts used on the light trucks and some passenger cars.    Hmmm ........

Shaking my head,  sometimes the three PPP's come into play.   God, even with my best efforts, i am Human, and screw up and make bad decisions often.

Remember that old Redneck's last words ?   "Hey y'all watch this" !!   hahaha

So, after abandoning this Conversion puzzle Oct. 22, of 2019, i am making another attempt.

I will turn 70 in late September, so i just don't work late in my shop anymore, like i did 30 yrs back.  :)

My recommendation to anyone wishing to do this with my approach, is use the med-duty Ford bell which has the smaller and popular 1/2" bolts mounting the trans to bellhousing.

I am way too far along to change-order now.     snicker

     

The aluminum adapter "coffee cup coaster" retains the front bearing.

I do need to carefully machine-in an oil return passage yet in the adapter on the bottom. 

http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/content/4x4-support" rel="nofollow - 4x4 Technical Support (partsmike.com)

Below is a link to the T-18 Gasket Set i hope to order today:

http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/products/923302-gasket-sett18" rel="nofollow - 923302 GASKET SET,T18 (partsmike.com)

Below is the small parts kit from Allstategear.com:

https://www.allstategear.com/T18-Small-Parts-Kit-p/sp18-50a.htm" rel="nofollow - T18 4 Speed Small Parts Kit, SP18-50A - Ford Transmission Repair Parts (allstategear.com)

The Countershaft thrust washers were contaminated with metal shavings so I won't use them.

I shopped around on the net and was trying to buy local.  Fat Chance !!

I keep forgetting i am working on a transmission which is 45-years obsolete.   Ugh

I got the Countershaft driven out of the Scout trans case and all needle bearings look new, so i cleaned everything up in mineral spirits, rinsed good with water in a screen (so i wouldn't loose any needle bearings.   Whew,  no kidding, there are 4-rows of 22-needles each row divided by washers and the spacer-tube in the middle.

Removing the Cluster-gear shaft went slow so as not to disrupt anything.   Hopefully !!

Same as removing the shaft from the Ford T-98 case, i scrounged a piece of scrap aluminum tubing from my bone pile, and cut it to 9-3/4" long  (a good round number).   hahaha

For diameter, it just fit inside the hole in the front of the case.   This was to hold the roller bearings and washers in place, as i drove the shaft with a long drift.   I also placed a large 12" block of 6x6 wood for the shaft to push against as i slowly drove it out.

Now, The aluminum tube by calculation is just long enough to catch the thrust washers too.

     So, when the cluster shaft was driven just beyond the last thrust washer, the Cluster dropped from position, and i could pull it out with the pipe in place inside the Cluster, and keeping needles and spacer washers intact.   Then after all this, i dump them all in the cleaning tray.    hahaha

     Really, i don't know how a man would ever wear Out one of these transmissions if properly serviced.   They are so heavy duty.    I mean realistically, i could reassemble with all existing parts, needles and thrust washers, and it would probably run like new.    I say this from experience, which may be discounted by some, but it is the hard cold truth.

     Ha,  oh yes,  there is an old Rumor that i have heard decades ago that we (us guys) cannot mix and match Ring Gears and Pinion Shafts.    I say Hog-Wash  !!!   Because i have done this successfully time in and time again in my 70-years of making something out of pieces and parts.

     Grinning, and am still running a Dana 60 full-floater after 22-years towing heavy loads and it is still going strong.    snicker.    It is all in proper set-up, and we don't need a dial indicator to set up a ring and pinion.    Just a reasonable mesh pattern and common sense.  For real, we can 'feel' 0.004" clearance, which is a good average back-lash for a Dana 44 or Model 20 AMC.

   Try it, you might like it !!

      Oh, hold on, my Grand-daughter is telling me we have to go outside for ICE CREAM !!

      Later, and i will include some new photos soon.

       Len

Interestingly,  all three could not take my call because of computer problems.   OK !

     Well, Del, from PartsMike was the only one of three to call me back.  What the  %$#* ?

I guess with today's covid epidemic, business as we think of it has changed.

     Sorry folks, i don't do business with AMAZON  !!   which means i don't search Amazon, period.

     When i order parts and pieces, i normally call the business to speak with a sales person.

No luck yesterday.   What I did was to Move Forward.

 I ordered my Cluster-Gear thrust washers and small parts kit from AllStateGear in San Antonio, Texas.

and I ordered the T-18 Gasket set from PartsMike online.

The links are on my previous post.

     Above is the Cluster-gear (Counter-gear) from the IH Scout T-18.  It looks and feels perfect.

This photo was taken before cleaning all the pieces.  No joke, i could not feel any backlash on the Cluster-gear while in the case before disassembly.  These transmissions are TOUGH.

     Drying the Scout Cluster next to the fireplace insert.   Yes, i exclusively heat with Bull Pine (Digger Pine) which proliferates in our area.   I get it free from Craigslist ads.  The catch is:  you must have a Timber Faller's saw to buck 40" trees.    That keeps the 'pickings' wide-open.

     This is the  small parts kit I ordered from ALLSTATE GEAR from San Antonio, Texas.  $23.95

Now, i would not ordinarily change out the needle bearings, but I could not purchase the Cluster thrust washers individually, i will wait and see where these puppies are manufactured before i replace the good original needles from Borg Warner.    Ha !    how many times has this transmission been opened up prior to me taking ownership ?    your guess may be as good as mine.    hahaha

Bearings are tougher than most of us would guess, and i would feel very comfortable running the original needles, and replacing Only the cluster gear Thrust Washers.   This is why we always have a surplus of extra "Left-overs" laying around.

Below is a link to some interesting reading:

http://pavelsuniverse.com/willys/transmission.html" rel="nofollow - Willys Transmission (pavelsuniverse.com)

I am hoping to include a photo of the T-18 gasket set which includes the t-case adapter main-shaft Seal, and the gaskets for both sides of the t-case adapter plate.

Below is a link to the '77 Jeep Renegade package.  I bought my red '77 cj-7 used in Dec. 1981.

With the Novak T-18 granny-tranny kit, it has taken me into the Rubicon Trail 16-summers with no breakdowns.   All wrenching was done on my home shop floor prior to tackling that parts-breaker trail.

https://www.jeepfan.com/readersjeeps/77-jeep-cj-7-renegade-levis-edition/" rel="nofollow - 77 Jeep CJ-7 Renegade, Levis Edition | jeepfan.com

If you need tilt steering parts for the Renegade package, they were made by GM.

Below is a link to Seth's T-18 YouTube videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkRMr8ArlLQ#action=share" rel="nofollow - Willys l-134 Ford T18 conversion. Input shaft moser engineering - YouTube

Below is a photo of the T-18 Gasket Set from PartsMike:

     This gasket set should be just the Cat's Meow !!   It was ordered yesterday.

Interesting how it is costing $13.50 for shipping from 200 miles away,  whereas my small parts kit much heavier shipping from Texas, was only $6.50.    Go Figure !!

I guess some Vendor's like to gouge us for a "handling" fee above the "shipping" cost.   Amazing !!

    Here we go for another update:   Jan. 21, 2021.

While waiting for parts for my T-18 transmission puzzle, i have began tearing down a GM SM465 4-speed trans.   This transmission came from Alaska in mid '70's  from the Trans-Alaska-Pipeline construction.

(1974 to 1977 - 800 miles of pipeline).

There was a local truck repair who contracted trucks and field repairs, who actually shipped core driveline components back to California for salvage.  My dad worked at the local Chevrolet Dealer as a parts salesman, and bought a SM465 and some NP205 transfer cases.  So, my dad has had these parts stashed away for 45+ years.   Omg.  So, i have rebuilt many different manual transmissions in my 69-years, but never a SM420 or SM465.    Here we go, learning about how another transmission is constructed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wMUZ-m4f6w&feature=emb_logo" rel="nofollow - SM465 Complete Rebuild Part 1!! - YouTube

( I am deviating from my T-18 build here for a moment because below is a link to a Willys-Build that i found Most Interesting ).   

https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/rango-1942-willys-mb.1000503/" rel="nofollow - Rango....1942 Willys MB | Pirate 4x4

The interesting thing that caught my eye about this build-thread is this:

  a modified SM420 to D-18 bull-Gear, where the T-case gear has been welded to a female splined collar to adapt the gear to the SM420 mainshaft Output Stub.    Exactly something i would tackle in a jiffy.

   D-18 modified drive-gear welded to an internal splined collar for a Muncie SM 420.   Nice work !!

One thing about this One-off drive gear is we must not forget that Spline are Standardized.

I like snooping through the Splined Couplers and Collars at Tractor Supply Shops, gathering ideas of how i can make a new component out of parts and pieces for a task-at-hand.   Machinist's are good for figuring out how to make something once again functional out of a broken something.

Bear with me, as i share thoughts which may benefit someone of interest:

Below is a description of how i salvaged a Ford model 670 flail mower from demise.

I know, i am deviating from my T-18 build, but wanted to share this Flail mower sheave solution which i had made up for me by another local machinist.

     My good buddy, Morris, is 6-years retired from 38-years as a parts salesman for John Deere Co..

Morris knew i was needing a 'different' flail mower.   I had been using a converted Corn-Stalk-Chopper as a field mower and a long tongue pull-behind my dads Ferguson TO-20 tractor.   Probably 2004 sometime, Morris calls me and says if i would like a new challenge to bring my trailer down to the Deere dealer and he will load up a '50's vintage 3-point old retired Ford 670 flail mower.   He saide it was basically sound, but missing long-discontinued parts.  The mower was missing the 10" diameter drive sheave at the outboard end of the drive shaft coming out of the pto gear-box on the mower.

My Solution:    I discovered that a standard 1-1/8" 6-spine coupler perfectly fit the splines on the outboard end of the pulley shaft and missing pulley (sheave).    I know i am typing quickly and using slang words so am mixing and matching terms.    sorry

    The i took the O.D. of the coupler, which was approx 2" O.D, x 4" long, on down to the local bearing shop and had the salesman drag out his book for pulleys, sheaves and hubs.

I wound up ordering a similar diameter sheave designed for a tapered hub.   The tapered hub was bore-able to fit over, and clamp to the collar.   I took the pieces to a local machinist, and had him bore the hub to fit over the coupler, and cut the coupler to length for assembling onto the mover driven shaft, and Voila !!     I should post it on one of the vintage tractor interest forums, but that would distract me more than i am now.    hahahaha    Ford model 670 Flail mower 6-ft arbor.

End of mower side story and standard spline applications.   My guess is the center hub from a clutch disc can readily be converted to a coupler ( if needed in a pinch ).    darn-tootin.

Now, if i were doing this for a Client, they may or may not be concerned.   I know, many people are hesitant about modification to components with machining and welding, but we must remember each day we trust our lives to machining and welding.   If you have any doubts, just drive across the golden gate bridge which was built in the '40's, and people trust their lives to it each day in commuting into good old Frisco.

I rented a  (gear puller ) and a (bearing separator) at AutoZone and dove into pulling bearings on the SM465 yesterday.   What a chore.   Yes,  i wound up using oxy-acet to heat up the inside race of the bearing on the output end of the splined mainshaft, and several times as it was a Tough-Pull.

    As i read through service manuals, seems they each have a different Name for components.

Why must manufacturer's each have their own name.   

For instance:     Input Shaft - (driven-gear) or Cluster Gear (Counter-gear).  I have never heard any line mechanic use the term "driven-gear" for a transmission input-shaft.   Why must each mfr be "different." ?

One Difference i have discovered between a Borg Warner T-18 and a Muncie SM-465 is the cluster-gear on the SM-465 rides on case mounted bearings rather than needle bearings on a shaft, like the BW T-18.

I was reading the SM465 has differences in the 1st gear with improvements over the years.   Hmm

I am tearing down the SM465 to discover the differences.   _ _ _ hey, i'm retired, so No-Hurries.

Yesterday, i got that stubborn output bearing coaxed off of the mainshaft (output shaft), and by then i was running out of daylight, so no more progress on the SM-465 tear-down.

No, you won't catch me on the snow ski hill before 12-noon because the slope will be frozen, and guaranteed bruises when you take a fall early morning.  Frozen snow groomed, is like falling on a concrete sidewalk.    Years ago, snowboarders had butt-pads inserted into the rear-end of their Board Pants, to cushion the fall while going over backwards.   I have never been beat-up as bad as my first day on a snowboard.  After that, i boarded 15-seasons, and went back to snow skis around 2005.

Well, all i have to say about disassembling the Muncie SM 465 transmission was a Tough Go.   Ugh.

First off my C-ring Pliers were not up the the task for both the Borg Warner T-18 or the Muncie sm 465.

Took me all afternoon to pull the 3-bearings required on the SM 465 (after sweet-talking those pesky C-rings off all 3-locations.   Yes, i followed the GM Service manual to the "T" for disassembly.

A NOTE here:

     The counter gear (cluster-gear) must have both front and rear bearings removed so the counter gear can "drop" into the bottom of the trans case in order to pull the Input Shaft out through the front.

The  borg warner T-18 is similar except the cluster has a thru-shaft with needle bearings.

Dropping the cluster on the T-18 is MUCH EASIER than on the SM 465.

Here is another note also on the SM 465 Specific as spelled out in the service manual:

The case of the SM 465 has wo recesses cast into it at the front of the Cluster which allows the roller bearing to be pryed-out with suitable prying device like a big-heavy-flatblade screwdriver.  ( I wound up using a cole chisel and 3-lb mallot with many careful taps going from side to side in the 2-access recesses in the case.   It is very slow going.

     Best i can figure, is my SM 465 is around a '74 to '78 model having the PTO port on both sides.

My back hurts  !! 

    

       SM 465 Mainshaft output bearing removal.  Slow and tedious.  If you notice, the radius of the bearing separator lip doesn't match the radius of the bearing race, so the separator is only grabbing the bearing in 4-points.     Not real good, but the best I have available, and it worked.

Yes, i had to keep putting a dab of heat on the race to keep it moving along on the shaft.

      SM 465 rear counter-gear (cluster) bearing removal.

      SM 465 Driven-gear (input shaft) bearing removal with AutoZone rental puller goodies.

An Note:   i used this same puller in 2019 to pull bearings on my T-18 and T-98 trans.

     SM 465 front counter-gear (cluster-gear) roller bearing removal with cole chisel and 3-lb mallot.

     SM 465 transmission case cleaned and painted, de-burr case face.   Note the heavy machining marks !

The machining looks as heavy as what we find on the early Willy's cases (engine blocks and trans & t-cases).

     Ok,  you know how you get the butterflies when facing a difficult task and then it becomes easy to come up with excuses as to why we haven't exited the "starting-blocks" yet ?    Nervousness  !!

    Below, i am attaching a link to Ken's (Oldtime) thread posting which is a nice reference:

Please note -  it center's around the early Willys optional Borg Warner T-98 trans with part numbers.

http://48cj2a.com/T98A.htm" rel="nofollow - Oldtimes T98A (48cj2a.com)

The following link is Ken's but the photos were lost:

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/borg-warner-t98-a.125624/page-2" rel="nofollow - Borg Warner T98-A | Page 2 | ECJ5 (earlycj5.com)

Today, Thursday, Feb 18,  i am lounging on the sofa dreaming of what could be:

I somehow landed on the "Pirate4x4" website reading a thread post about IH Scout T-18 transmissions.

From that link,  I got off on to reading about the Rubicon Trail and rule changes and regulations of keeping open the County Road.

A  quick note about what I know of running the Rubicon from 1983 through 2001.  _ 20 yrs ago.

Back when, 1985,  a person could drive a jeep with oversize tires through the Little Sluice Box.   My guess is around 1987 people began winching boulders off the sides and down into the Sluice Box requiring a tube-framed-buggy to get through with out body damage.   I could give you all an opinion of this kind gesture, but will refrain because I don't need to go there.   All i can say is people were defecating everywhere outside of campsites on top of the ground without burying with a shovel, and it was GRoss.

Makes me wonder why some people must deficate in their own nest.  Oh wait, the property belongs to the public, so i guess they feel no responsibility to pick up behind themselves.   Hmmmmmm

    With all the poop and trash that some people left behind back then, i am surprised the jeep trail is still open today !!    Seems like even back then, in order to use a fire-ring, i had to clean out a garbage bag of trash from the previous "Users".     I know some 4x groups have "pooper-scooper" days, but when the Jamboree pushes 400 people through in a few days, that equaled  Lots of Poop on the ground.

Really,  how many city-folk carry poop shovels and use them.    concerning _ _ _

   End of Rubicon Trail concerns.   

My machinist is making an adjustment to the clearances of fit between my T-18 special front bearing retainer "coffee cup coaster" so it will easily index into the modified L134 bellhousing.  

Take note:    for you who are new to this, Ford does have several diameter's of front bearing retainers.

In my best interest, I chose the smaller of the two being 4-3/4".   Anyone doing this conversion path will have to make their own choice, but, for me, i'd say go with the smaller hole for least disturbance to the L134 bell housing index hole.

     More to follow soon, _ _ _ _ I hope.   :)

Ok, so, upon observation, I discovered the two bolts were sheared off that attach the crossmember to the IH Scout adapter plate which connects the T-18 trans to the Transfer Case.   Hmmm

My only thought of why those two 7/16" bolts were sheared is because a previous owner hit something solid in the front, causing the weight of the engine and trans assembly to continue moving forward, instantly shearing off the two bolts. 

    Anyways I had my machinist extract the two bolts for me.

    two holes in T-case adapter plate bottom.   

Note:   the bottom surface is machined at an angle to perpendicular to the plate.  not 90 degrees.

You can see where the stretch of the bolts broke out some cast iron around the hole in photo.

    Yesterday was Cluster Gear re-assembly from the IH Scout T-18 trans case into the Ford T-98 case.

Here is the "Deal" -  most articles i've read mention that because of the tight fit of the Cluster Gear with thrust washers installation requires Three-Hands !!    Right !

    So, i meticulously load all of the Four sets of 22-rolller bearings and Separation washers into the Cluster for re-assembly into the case.   Now, i didn't tightly pack the rollers in place with bearing grease.

I did this so the trans fluid could easily work it's way into the needles.   _ _ a good idea _ _ right !

    Well,  yep, you guessed it.   I had to tilt the Cluster up on end to carefully ease it down into the Ford T-98 case.   Aaaaaahhhhh   Noooooo !!    All of the roller bearings and separating washers spilled out onto the cardboard and floor.     I Knew IT would happend.

    In this photo:   on the aluminum tube is the roller bearing center spacer, and the roller spacer washers.    You know,  _ _ i really did know going in, to expect one or more Blunders.

     hahaha   Welcome to the home method of Learning by Feel.   yep, good ol hands-on.   Ouch !

Hey,  my wife yesterday evening thought i had a reaction-rash to my first covid shot.

I reminded her it was the scuffing of my arms against the inside of the trans case walls.

     Reloading the rollers @ 22-rollers each of four groups total.   A tedious task where anything disastrous may and Can happen.    LoL     This can take while _ _ _ _ 

     New thrust washers on left, and the old washer on right.

Note, the old thrust washers look like Hell, but when checking over-all thickness of the washers, they were both basically the same measurement  =   0.020-inch.    

I honestly believe i could have re-assembled everything into the Ford case and the trans gears would function properly, But _ _ _ to feel Good about my efforts, i am replacing ONLY the thrust washers.

I am re-using the original Borg Warner cluster roller bearings because i know they will go many more years.    The new rollers in the small parts kit are probably not U.S. mfr, but probably sufficient.

Am I Supersticious ?    _ _ _ yes.     LoL

   I have been "Forewarned" previously.

I did not watch the clock either, but after dumping all the roller's out,  i walked back to the house to wash my hands, pour a glass of punch, and have a smoke.   From my research, i was expecting the installation of the cluster and thrust washers to take a Loooong Tiiiime.   and it DID, hours.

    Finally, after using Napa wheel bearing grease 'plane-jane' stuff (yellow) i did dab some here and there while stuffing the rollers and separating washers in place.   I was using a piece of aluminum tube from the salvage pile to go through the middle of the Cluster to hold everything in place.  Then, when installing the Cluster Gear Shaft, the Shaft pushes the aluminum tube out ahead of it.

Note:    the shaft goes in from Rear to Front.

I fought and fought trying to hold the Cluster with one hand,  and rotate, to the stuff the Shaft in from the rear while rotating it also.    It Didn't happen.

My aluminum pipe is cut long enough to catch and hold the Twe Rear Thrust Washers in place while gently and lovingly lowering the loaded Cluster into position.  Remember:   there is a big large diameter thrust washer at the front of the Cluster.  This washer is 'indexed' to the case with a bent tab.

Yep,  my 'small parts kit' must be from China, because the bent tab looked insufficient.  So, in to the vise it goes, so i can persuade more bend with the assistance of a small pair of Vise-Grips (my fav buddy in the shop).   Everyone should own a pair of Vise Grips with the chain (not used here).

     Note:    I held that big front thrust washer in place with grease to stick it in place AND with the "bent tab" indexed properly in the recess of the case.   Pay attention to this with care !

I held the front thrust washer from falling down by using the Reverse Idler gear Shaft as an index.

     Well,  after many many concerted, and failed attempts, i needed the 3rd Hand, which would be the boss's touch,  my wife and best buddy.   I recruit her assistance, so i can Balance the Cluster with both hands, so it "floats" in position.

     Oh,  Too  -   _ _ _ there was about Zero chamfer on the front edge of the shaft ok !   And, i figured out that the roller separating washers are just small enough O.D., that they would drop down enough that the leading edge of the shaft was hanging up on the washer.

     I got out my 4-1/2" grinder with diamond wheel and put a good heavy 1/16" chamfer.

     My next assembly attempt with the wife manning (womanning) the shaft, and me balancing the Cluster, i carefully made sure the most rear-ward of the two rear Thrust washers was lined up, and Presto !!   _ _ _ with a few subtle jostles, the Shaft slid right in like it should have the first try.

     In this photo the Cluster shaft has been inserted into the Cluster Gear.   You can see the Reverse Idler shaft sticking out front, which is holding the front thrust washer from falling down.

     This photo shows the Tab sticking Up on the rearward Thrust washer.  On the bottom of the washer is the open groove which sits over a casting on the trans case preventing it from spinning.

      This is looking at the Forward Thrust washer with Indexing tab.

I put my new wasjer in the vise to give it more bend stick ou.

     Finally,  wow, what a trying afternoon of Jostling the Cluster, Thrust washers and Shaft.

     Yep, i was shafted until i Chamfered the cluster shaft leading edge.  I think i could have installed the shaft with out the wife's assistance had i chamfered the shaft before my first assembly attempt.

     Hahahaha  _ _ _ kinda funny, who we get nervous and get the butterflies just before re-assembly of something we don't work on everyday, so we are essentially Learning-as-we-Go.    right  !!

     Like that old Redneck said to his buddies  "Hey ya'll watch this" !!  _ _ before his Fail.   hahaha

     What a relief to have the IH Scout Cluster gear (Counter gear) installed into the Ford T-98 case.

     While carefully driving the Cluster shaft through the Case and Cluster slowly with a plastic mallot, the shaft pushes my aluminum tube out ahead of it.   Believe me, with the thrust washers in place with the cluster in the case, the fit is so snug, the roller separating washers on each end have no room to drop out.   BUT, do keep a close eye on both end thrust washers to make Certain they are Indexed properly.   When everything is lined up, the cluster will 'float' in position.   This is a good thing.

     

     Next i will show Differences i encountered while COMPARING gasket faces of the Ford T-98 case to the IH Scout T-case Adapter Plate.    Not Good !!

    I will attempt to show the discovered Miss-Fit between the two.   Yep,  big time leak issue.

   

     See my next thread:

     As i laid out the gaskets which insert between the Transfer Case Adapter plate to transmission, and the gasket inserting between the Adapter plate to Transfer Case.

     Well,  if we look at the following photos, there is a gap between the transmisison casting and the IH Scout Transfer case Adapter plate.    Not Good.  !!!!

This means i will have to build up some weld beads to fill in the Gap-Area on either the T-98 trans case or the IH Scout Adapter plate.   Or, i could use JBWeld as a filler, and machine flat at the gasket surface.

    This photo shows the gasket which follows the contour of the T-98 Trans case, but does Not follow the outline of the IH Scout transfer case adapter Plate.    Geat Scott  !!!    another hurdle.

    This shows the gap between the t-case adapter plate and the gasket.  The gasket follows the outline of the Ford T-98 case.   As a note to, directly behind this gasket in the "gap" area, is a threaded hole which accepts one of the Transfer Case mounting bolts.   I will have to fill carefully with no slop over into the threaded area.

    This shows the area to potentially fill for a complete gasket mating surface on rear of T-98 case.

This decision will be made after doing some filling practice using Harris 99 nickel electrode.

    To be continued:

    

     I discovered an interesting possible problem.  As i looked at and moved the 3rd / 4th synchronizer ring on the synchronizer hub,  i noticed the clips and clip retaining ring moving forward and aft with the 3rd / 4th gear shifting Ring !!

I thought this means the retaining ring on the other side is Hay-Wire.

The clips are supposed to keep the 3rd / 4th shifting ring centered on the synchronizer hub.

     This shows the poppet clip (in the hub groove) pulled out from the hub with the ring.

     Upon removing the synchronizer hub from the mainshaft the 3-clips are retained by the inside spring clip.  The 3 centering clips appear to he held for and aft by the synchronizer rings (bronze).

So, i have determined everything looks to be in order when installing the syncro with the input shaft (driven gear - technical name).    When the input and syncro are in place the big syncro ring centers itself properly on the hub when in neutral.

      Note:   if you look closely, laying in the bottom of the syncro hub is a roller bearing from where the input shaft indexes with the mainshaft pilot.

  

     This shows the clip and clip ring retainer pushed back in the hub.

notice the needle bearing hiding behind the spring clip in the  bottom.

What I need to address is the oil return hole and galley from the front bearing retainer back into the transmission case.

     So, for starters, the Willys L134 front bearing retainer sits nestled into the "Coffee Cup Coaster" aluminum adapter my machinist made.  I need to figure out how to provide a galley.

     What i did is to locate on the aluminum adapter where i need to bore a hole through it to carry oil back into the transmission case.  I bored a countersunk 5/16" hole.  Then at an angle through the adapter, i drilled a hole through.   This hole will line up with a new 5/16" hole drilled into the backside of the front bearing retainer.   Next, to carry oil from the original oil galley recess, I drilled a series of holes, and then with Dremel and a diamond wheel, i cut out between the series of holes to provide a galley to carry oil from the retainer side (front of bearing), on through the hole in the adapter plate and on through the original oil return hole in the transmission case.    Bingo !   problem solved.

    In the above photo:   the cast iron front bearing retainer is lined up with the oil return hole drilled at and angle through the aluminum adapter plate.    

My thoughts are:   if i were to use a sealed bearing for the front, would i really need an oil return hole ?

    In this image, when the cast retainer is seated into the adapter, it is rotated so the hole at the upper end of the galley matches up with the hole in the adapter.   

Yes, i did bunches of head-scratching, and oogling at my Oil Return Galley 'rubix-cube'  yep.

    The above photo shows the oil return hole marked in yellow.

The bearing retainer has been modified to channel oil front the front side of the retainer, back into the case.

Note:    where the oil return channel has been cast into the front L134 bearing retainer, it is raised above the surrounding surfaces.   I didn't have enough meat (material thickness to cut a passage perpendicular to the input shaft centerline, so that is the reason for drilling holes and cutting between them.    My idea was to cut the galley through the thick flange portion of the Front Bearing Retainer.

The surface of the aluminum adapter with drain hole shown, mates up with the trans case hole marked in yellow.   So from this image, both the retainer and adapter get flipped over for install.

     In this above photo:   i am removing the clutch fork pivot ball.  It is the push-in style, so i twisted it with the Vise Grips while prying upwards with a big screw driver.   It worked !

     In the above photo:   I am showing the removed clutch fork pivot ball.

The ball needs replacing because it is badly worn.

Don't men service or do periodic service to their rigs so they don't have to be towed home by their buddies ?

Now i can move on _ _ _ _ to addressing a mismatch between the rear face of the Ford T-98 trans case to IH Scout T-case adapter plate.

Hey, why crack a sweat when i just did, taking care of the home-front firstest.   As always right !

I have learned that if i do go out of my way to appease my squaw, life is good or gooderest yep.

Whatever.    Hey, at least I drug my dad in and out of the Rubicon a few times and the 3-day trek through the Dusy Ershim Trail up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains east and north of Fresno, California.

    I remember one year when he was 65 years old and i was 42, and we hiked 6-miles in and 6-mile out in one afternoon to explore the Barrett Lake Jeep Trail up in the vicinity of the Rubicon.   He dang near out walked me, and i was the one asking for breaks.    hahaha

Ok  here we go exploring the Mis-Match between the Ford T-98 rear face and the IH Scout T-case 
Adapter plate:    It doesn't match up in one spot as i was scrutinizing the gasket mating to both supposedly mating surfaces.   Hmm.    a No Go

   this photo above shows the difference between the Ford T-98 trans case gasket, and the IH Scout T-case adapter plate surface.    Hmm,  what to do:  ???

Note: in the area of mis-match, the IH Scout T-18 transmission case matches the adapter plate.

I wonder how the rear of a newer '70's vintage Ford T-18 case would match up with the Scout plate ?

So, i have two choices:

   1 -   weld up one of the surfaces to mate with the other.

or

   2 -  build up the required area needed for mating with JB Weld or similar.

   In this photo above:   the area at the tip of the screwdriver is where i will build up with weld beads, and then draw-file the weld bead down flush with the rear face.  This will allow a match-up between surfaces.

This above photo shows my 'practice' filler bead on the donor Ford bell housing.

I basically overlayed several spot welds (or stictch welds).   I'm feeling lucky !!

Hey, i tried knocking loose the filler bead with the claws of a 22-oz framing hammer and it was a no-budge.

Open air welding table _ _ _ doesn't get any better.   Well, except the termites keep getting into my wood rounds when standed on end.   yep, those pesky devils work around the clock too.

   In this photo:   my paper gasket shows covering the area built-up with mig-weld-bead.  I made this yellow lined paper gasket to check Fitment.

The paper gasket I purchased which was made by Crown "doesn't fit properly.  The gasket for the t-case side of the adapter fits ok.    Re-Pop market stuff can be a real crap-shoot.

This means i now must buy a pack of gasket material 0.0012 thick, and make my own which fits.

    in the above photo:     Welding and flat filing are DONE.    whew

My mis-match of the T-98 trans case to t-case adapter plate has been solved without having to call in some $85 per hour welding guy.    Is the welding guys work any better ?   _ _ _ that depends.   LoL

Probably  !!     hahahaha     hey, remember, i am a lifelong welder, but no expert.

If i were younger, I'd buy me a nice used TIG welder.  (I still have trouble soldering, and properly prepping surfaces to be tinned.    Oh well.

Personally,  i have been welding since 8-years old, so you get the drift.

Now the question:   How to weld up an area to be dressed down ?

Easy _ _ _ just fire up an electric arc welder _ _ _ mig or stick electrode.

I can direct a quick spot weld with my mig, where-as with a stick electrode, it is a crap-shoot where my weld bead will be once an arc is struck.     oh yeah, try again, and don't let the electrode stick to the workpiece.     hahaha

I just don't stick weld often enough to do a spot weld with a stick.   That is an acquired art.

You guessed it right !!     Yep, i'll be using my 225 mig-master with .035 steel wire.

I began by attempting to mig weld on the Ford bell housing donor a filler bead.   Yes, at first i had my heat too low, and turned up both to 3 setting and wire speed at 3.    Hey, nice !

Ok, as that red-neck yelled to his buddies:  "hey y'all, watch This" !!

So here goes, i'm going in with both feet, so if there is no bottom,  _ _ i'm a gonner.    LoL

For whatever reason, my first try on the Ford T-98 trans case my heat was too cold.   Hmmm ??

It was just a-ok on the '79 Ford truck bellhousing.    Aha,  the bell was warm, and the trans case was cold.    Temp can make a difference.    So i turned up the heat and wire speed a bump.

Geeze Louise,  ever try draw-filing a surface for flatness ?

My next hour was spent ever so lovingly flat filing my fillet weld on the Ford T-98 case so the sealing surface will match up with that of the IH Scout adapter plate.

So, for you guys wishing to do one of these conversions,  spend $2k and buy one race-ready.

I wanted to wade my way through this, so $$ and time is no biggie.   If i happen to pass before i complete this rubix cube, my wife will proably just toss it into the weekly dumpster Bin.    Omg

    Hmmm

    

uploads/8821/Borg-Warner_T18_tranny.pdf" rel="nofollow - uploads/8821/Borg-Warner_T18_tranny.pdf

So, to check for this "Squash" syndrome thing, I did some Checking !!   _ _ with my trusty mic:

    measuring the slot on the input shaft where I may insert a "squash-eliminator" plate to use during installation of the front bearing.   measured close to 0.180"  nearly 3/16" it appears.

     measuring gap with 4th gear snycro ring removed.

     measuring gap between rear face of Input Shaft and front face of 3rd / 4th syncro hub.

Yep, there is an obvious difference that the syncro holds the shaft forward away from the syncro hub.

    4th gear (direct) syncro ring with painted notches.   _ _ _ just me.

Hey, i paid good money for this wrecking yard style paint marking pen, so i'm using it.    haha LoL

Gap between the rear face of input shaft to 3rd gear front face:  (no needle bearings installed).

with brass syncro ring removed  =  0.216"

with brass syncro ring installed  =   0.260"

End result:   I found there to be about 0.005-inch with rounding, squash possible !

I remember reading in another build thread somewhere in my 'bookmarks' but I failed to isolate it into a folder Specific to "input shaft Support", so i haven't found it yet.   I have a bazillion bookmarks with info related to the T-18 Borg Warner transmission, and i trying to find anything is overwhelming.  Ugh

     Ok, so Here are some interesting SIMILARITIES between the T98 and T18 internals:

The "needles" that the T18 Countershaft rides on are the same as the needles used in the front of the mainshaft to input shaft (driven gear).   Technical terms like "driven gear" drive me Knutz !

Needle measurements i get:  0.0187" dia. x 0.986" long, whether new or used.

Did i use the new needles which came from a "small parts kit" with no name on label.   hell No !!

I am re-using known good needles which are probably OEM Borg Warner.   Being superstitious, i prefer using known-good components rather than imported un-known's.

Personally, i haven't had satisfactory luck with Crown gaskets whether carburetor or trans.

     I like speaking in Laymen's terms like the daily mechanic.     hahahaha (knuckle buster wrench) !!

From wrestling with the heavy gear sets, my finger nails are broken back to the pink.   As Always !!

And skinned knuckles is a given each week.

     Ok so Thursday, March 11th I was wanting to check a few things, so i installed the needle bearings into the rear of the Input Shaft to check Fitment to the front nubber of the Mainshaft.   Hey, i used light Napa general purpose wheel bearing grease to stick the needles (22) of them, and then light oil on the surface of the front mainshaft nubber, and stuck the two together to check "Wobble" at the front pilot-bearing end of the Input Shaft.    WoW  !!   I am impressed  !!   not more than 1/16" sideways movement, so much tighter fit than expected.    Also, i measured the diameter of the hole in the rear of the input shaft to be 1.510".

measured the O.D. of the Mainshaft nubber that rides inside the needles to be 1.135" O.D. x 1" long.

      Another thing i Learned upon inserting the Input and Mainshaft into the Ford T98 case:

I could not get the mainshaft nubber into the rear of the input shaft, with the Input inserted into the case prior to installing the main shaft assembly !!!!

      What i have learned in the past is:     many manual transmission input shafts have a notch cut into the teeth that the syncro ring meshes with which will allow insertion clearance past the cluster gear teeth while inserting the mainshaft from the front.    Bingo !!

    This photo shows the clearance "notch" in the input shaft allowing the shaft to be inserted from the front of the transmission case after the Main Shaft assembly has been carefully lowered into the case and supported on the input end with mechanic's wire, and supported in the output end with a block of some sort (I used a plastic cap).

  

      This was the procedure that I used:

      I suspended the front of the mainshaft assembly with mechanic's wire nearest to center that I could (for insertion into the female end of the input shaft).   I propped-up the rear of the Main shaft assembly at Output end with a plastic spray cap.   I then very carefully insterted the Input Shaft through the hole in the front of the T98 Case, being sure the "notch" was on the bottom and clearing the cluster teeth as i slowly rotated the input while working it back.    Make certain the notch in the syncro rings matches up the the "clips" in the 3rd / 4th syncro-hub and shifting ring.

I don't think the input shaft would go in if the syncro isn't lined up with the clips.

      Now,  I have a confession to make:

     I have splayed needles everywhere in my assembly area.   No kidding !! 

  

Remember, when i was removing the clip to access the 3rd / 4th gear syncro assembly, the clip shot off and bounced of my stomach and ricochyed over off the bench.    That sucker is a GONER !!!

Well, when i reached over to grab my flashlight to compile a 'search', the clip was hanging from the magnet on the base of my flashlight  !!    Go Figure.

     I wonder how many more needles i will find throughout 2021 shop cleaning excursions ?    LoL

     Here is the Deal guys:      All of the needles measure identical.    Good News !!

Upon close measure, i couldn't find any differences between the old and the new.

Me -  being supersticious,  i reused all the old original BW Countershaft and Input Shaft needles from the IH Scout T18 internals.    I always reuse those parts which appear serviceable.

Did i mention earlier a Similarity between the GM SM465 and Warner T18  ???

They both share the same rear output bearing.   They look IDENTICAL.   How's that for Apples !!!

      Because i do happen to have disassembled both the SM465 and T18 side by side, i can very clearly see the differences, but very similar.

     this photo shows in 'yellow' the original line of the Ford T98 case.   I used my 225 mig using steel wire to build-up the necessary area so the IH Scout t-case Adapter Plate will match up.

Yes, i had to make a gasket to match with the IH Scout plate.  The gasket i purchased from an online vendor was made by Crown, and was Waaayy out of spec to use.   What a p*sser.

Using the mig machine, the weld in quick stitches lays material down so fast the transmission doesn't know what hit it.     hahahaha    Zap  Zap  peen zap peen zapp zapp peen.   then hand machine the surface with a large bastard file.     slow and Care-Full.

   Well, i've been freezing my butt even with the propane portable heater burning one side of me while I chip ice off the other side.    Yep, knumb fingers, and all _ _ _ you know the drill.

 Currently, i need to source a new rear Mainshaft bearing, and will probably make some local phone calls first before i place an order online.

      Oh, yep,  i've been having starting issue's with my Ford 460 in a '78 for Van.

The other day the engine was kicking back against the starter.   hmmm,  what the heck !!!! ???

Yesterday, i pulls the spark plugs (no not Willy's related, but similar addiction and symptoms) and checked them all with my handy "spark-checker" tool.   The spark checker is the Briggs 3.5hp push mower !!    yep, i was on the spark end, and my wife was on the pull-rope end.   All eight spark plugs sparked.   Hmm.  why was the engine kicking back against the starter and stalling the cranking ?

     Just for Grins, i decided to see what compression one of the cylinder's is pushing.   175 psi !!

But while attempting to turn over the engine against the one cylinder with the compression gauge in place the engine bumped up against the gauge the second revolution after hitting 175 the first rev, and the Starter STALLED OUT  !!!!

      Now we know what I will be working on today.    Yep, the hopeful removal of the 460 Starter, to then take it in for exchange for a rebuilt unit.   ( I know, i dislike refurb's but repops are nothing special.

     So yep, today, i'm feeling Lucky.   So i get the small ball peen hammer and begin co-ercing the front and rear mainshaft bearings in place.  rata-tat and tap tap carefully and slowly.

I get the rear bearing in place.  I wanted to say the inner race on the shaft is a tight fit but the outer race slid in to the Ford T98 case easily.   Next i focus on the front bearing now.   Ok, things are not looking good.   Hmm, what the heck.   Remember the outer race of the bearing is a slide-in fit into the case, and i can push the input shaft back to where it looks correct with the syncro for 4-th gear.   I gently tapped the front bearing up to where the outer snap ring was against the trans case, and i still had about 3/32-inch gap between the rear face of the bearing, and the front face of the input shaft gear.    Hmmm, what the heck  ???

     I NOTICED on disassembly of the input shaft and mainshaft the "suspicious" Gap.   Hmmm

Now, why does this gear case swap require the use of the thicker front bearing.

I am 'wondering' if someone ahead of me, installed the narrow front bearing, and didn't check for Gaps, and pulled the tranny because of it not staying in 4-th gear, which is what gear the gap would affect.   Why must i always have to Trouble-Shoot stuff i buy second-hand ?    why ?

Because !    _ _ _ because i usually go for the stuff that is different or odd-ball.    Is IH norm ?

     

    I'm driving head-long into a Severe Winter Storm Advisory tomorrow again with my 32yo son for some nice Powder Skiing.   Yep,  the snow storm will be Brutal, but we have the proper gear !  BEER !

When the temps are near 22-degrees or less, the body needs some sort of Anti-Freeze to stay Limber.

Nowadayz, i'm the sober driver, and my son enjoys the BEERS.  I have real fond memories of when I was his age.   yep, I was 30-yo when i bought my CJ-7.

     Ok, so i did mic the thick and thin front bearings, and the difference is what gap needs filling for the bearing to push the input shaft back to where it almost touches the syncro clips (3 of them).

     This gap is slight but must not be tight.   What the Service Manual says is when shifting, the shift ring on the synchronizer hub pushes the syncro clips against the syncro, pushing the taper of the syncro onto the tapered hub on the gear slowing and assisting gear mesh.    Important note:   like the manual says,  do not press the cone into the syncro or the syncro won't slow down on the cone providing for smooth gear mesh.

What i wound up doing is using a small ball peen hammer to slowly coax the bearing onto the front and rear shafts.   The logic is simple:    the small hammer weighs much less than the piece the bearing is being driven onto lessening movement possibly damaging the syncro.

Here is what I get for bearing thickness:

thin bearing  =  0.905 inch

thick bearing  =  0.790 inch

Difference  =  0.115 inch      _ _ _   aha, just about right to push the input back further.

      After i get all the gremlins figured out, then i have to check the shift tower for proper operation. 

      The following link has some interesting reading:

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/lets-talk-t18-and-t98.47629/" rel="nofollow - Let's Talk T18 and T98 | ECJ5 (earlycj5.com)

In the link above, Stew discusses his "gap" like i am experiencing.   yep.

He mentions having to use the thicker front bearing, but had to remove the large oil-sling washer that resides behind the front bearing.    Ok, i'm toasted for the day.   Done-In, and my brain is mush.

Member xlr8n mentioned some '78 models did not use the oil slinger washer with the wider bearing.

Go Figure !!       _ _ _ I now have more measuring to do next time i work on this puzzle.   :)

        see you next update !

      I miraculously discovered an answer to the Big Question i had of the two thicknesses of front input shaft bearings.

      Each article i read on the net has some good information, but many do not go into elaborate detail on each proper step of re-assembly.  My Big Question up until Sunday, March 21st was:

    What one thing determines using the Thick .905" or the Thin  .790" bearing ?

The Input Shaft (Driven Gear) groove for the bearing retainer clip determines which front bearing is to be used !     I guess I somehow must have overlooked this on all of the articles i've read or seen on videos i've watched on uTube.

      If you want the answer of how i discovered this ?    simple simon, i tried installing the thin bearing part way, but not All-the-Way enough to install the retainer clip, and pulled it back off thinking I needed the wider bearing to "push" the driven gear back into the 3 / 4 Synchronizer assembly only to find out the retainer clip groove location will only accept either the Thick or the Thin of the two bearings.

      I have the Input Shaft removed, and i pulled the thick bearing off of it after dinner, and will hopefully find time this week to dive-in again to see how the Thin bearing works out.

( the Thick bearing wouldn't allow room for the retainer clip, So I have the THIN BEARING INPUT SHAFT ).   Remember, this is a Close-Ratio 4:1 granny 1st gear IH Scout innards being placed into the Ford T-98 case.   The cases both measure the same length.

For some suspicious reason, I am probably going to disassemble the trans mainshaft again looking for a mysterious "gap" between the Input gear and the 3-4 Synchronizer assembly.

      I spent 4-partial-days woodcutting last week because the free Pine was available, so i have not had the opportunity to properly focus on getting this transmission fully assembled.

       More later next time, so no answers today beyond my discovery that the Input Shaft retainer clip groove dictates which front "308" series bearing is to be used.

      Len

     Here is the latest.  I very carefully did a 'compare' of position of shift forks positions in relation to the position of the shift ring collars fore and aft on the Mainshaft assembly.   Voila !

    Measuring above to check fork positions against shift collar positions.

    Above photo showing what I consider to be too much 'gap' between syncro and gear.

    But, i am forcing everything over with the screwdriver

     I was getting the Gap when pushing the collar into 3rd gear position Further than the shift fork indents place it.    When in Neutral, the fork positions the 3 / 4 collar smack dab in the middle between the limits of fore-aft play allowed by the three clips which push against the brass synchro ring.

When the fork positions 3rd gear collar, it isn't positioned as far to the rear as i was able to push it by hand, thus creating the mystery gap.   I felt i needed to check neutral positioning of everything both when the trans is in Neutral or in each individual gear position.

     After all of my Checking, i have determined the transmission should run-in just  fine.

The above photo shows the 'normal' or 'neutral' position of the 3rd / 4th shift collar (ring).

All looks to be good and upon checking positioning of the shift fork, it positions the collar shown here, which is centered properly on the synchro hub.  The 3rd / 4th synchro hub is fixed on the mainshaft by a hefty clip.   This clip is the one that came flying off, bounced off of my belly and when it passed the bench, my magnetic base flashlight caought the pesky clips.   ( i'm still finding needle bearings ).  LoL

Hey, don't laugh until you have fallen victim to the disassembly head-aches.

NOTE:

We can insert and remove the input shaft easily with the mainshaft assembly in place, seeings how I have been switching bearings several times in my self-learning drill.

Look at above photo and you can see a Flat Spot cut into the 4th gear teeth (input shaft), which allows the input shaft (driven gear - according to some service manuals) teeth to pass by the teeth of the Cluster Gear.

      I did pull the rear bearing and inserted an 0.064" spacer ahead of the rear bearing to push the assembly forward to eliminate the gap.   Couldn't turn the mainshaft when tightening the front and rear bearing retainers (without gaskets).

I did do some 'checking' further, and did make a determination:

I am tempted to go to a transmission shop and look for a matchingdiameter spacer of 0.025" or 0.030" and pull the rear bearing once again and try it out of curiosity.    There is enough wiggle room of the collars that maybe the 0.025" spacer won't affect shift collar (ring) positions with the mainshaft pushed forward slightly.

I remember doing lots of shimming in decades past making old equipment run properly.

Back in the mid '60's, i repaired a bunch of motorcycle transmissions  just because i enjoyed trying to figure out why they would not shift or stay in gear.   Pretty basic really.    hahahaha  "clocking"

I'd go broke trying to earn a living as a mech.   I have to assemble and disassemble too many times before i am happy with the outcome.

     The gap between synchro and gear with synchro up against the cone looks consistent for 2nd, 3rd and 4th.   Checking this gap against those of the T-98 mainshaft synchro's was the same. The synchro rings do easily tighten against the cones by hand when bench checked.

This input shaft was cut down for me by Moser Engineering upon request to the T-90 / L134 template.  I LIKE their expertise !!

This shows the "coffee cup coaster" adapter which becomes the front bearing retainer for the T-18 and also cradles or holds the (cup) and the 'cup' being the T-90 / L134 front bearing retainer compatible with the early Willys L134 release bearing for the clutch.

This is looking from the haunches in mock up state showing the IH Scout Transfer case adapter plate.

I bought the IH Scout T-18 transmission with the straight-thru D-20 transfer case from a guy in Paradise, California a few years ahead of the wildfire that destroyed the community.

Now, i don't know any specifics, but this T-18 trans has the screw on shift lever cap.

And, i did discover that the syncro cones of the Ford T-98 are a much smaller diameter than those of the T-18.   Truthfully,  my brain is so cluttered with technical data and measuring with the calipers, I cannot describe a distinction with what interchanges, but there is no mis-installing one or the other syncro rings into the other.

 

Above i am showing the last item which goes in before the Cover tower:  Reverse idler shift lever.

Lightly grease or lubricate with oil the pivot pin and O-ring seal and install.   I haven't yet driven in the retainer Pin (if i can find it after a 15-month haitus.    hahahaha    _ _ good luck right !

Kinda like trying to find the clips, springs and balls that shoot all over the shop, when least expected.

Believe me -   you CAN expect this stuff to take flight never to be retrieved again.    LoL

Hey, not to dispair -   the needles interchange between the Cluster and Mainshaft both.     no worries guys.  I mic'd the needle bearings on both the T-18 and T-98 and all needles measured the same for both diameter and length, so, if you loose needles, just buy a small parts kit for $25.  no sleep loss.

Above shows my Ford T-98 case holding IH Scout 4:1 T-18 innards.  Modified Scout-to-L134 Input.  Custom made front bearing retainer adapter (coffee cup coaster) holding in place the T-90 front bearing retainer for the L134 throw-out bearing carrier.   Like Seth had to do with his T-18 conversion, he had to have the carrier machined so the throwout bearing moves back approx 0.25-inches because the aluminum adapter pushes the T-90 retainer about the 1/4-inch forward from the face of the transmission.

as you can see above, i have not installed the front bearing-to-input shaft retainer clip yet.

The T-90 front bearing retainer shown is a new-used part I purchased while up in Plymouth, Calif., in April 2019 while browsing through the used parts booth at the Historical Military Meet, which Doug Nile suggested I attend to sell a couple of GPW L134 engine blocks i have in mothballs.   

Besides the Front Retainer, I purchased a nice cj2a Fuel Tank which needed the brass outlet bung re-soldered,   I got a nice set of L134 Connecting Rods,  and some nice used clutch parts.

Note:

On my Scout T-18 input shaft, it only will accept the thin front bearing.

Now, i have read where when installing the thin bearing, the oil deflector washer must be discarded.

Hmm,  not on mine.  I 'first' installed the thin bearing with the raised part of the washer towards the bearing.   IT RUBBED !!    _ _ yes, guys i got to pull off the bearing and turn the washer over so the raised outer portion faces the rear, essentially laying up against the gear face.  No More Rubbing !!   Yeay

   the mad-scientist's creation.  I guess it would be called a "modified" Borg Warner T-18.

   Currently i am feeling very good about how i have everything set up, but not yet with gaskets.

     One thing i can say about this Build project, i have had this design in my head since 1984, and made it a High-Priority bucket list item once i retired, and now i can look back with a Big SMILE of gratification that it all came together.   Seth's T-18 build thread was an inspiration, and as he was, I am very pleased with the handi-work Moser Engineering did for me, and my machinist, Mark at A&A Welding and Machine in Anderson, California for his willing-ness to make my Coffee Cup Coaster front adapter for me.   I've around $400 total in machining at A&A, and $200 at Moser Engineering.

      The nice thing about this conversion is there is no need for an adapter plate between the T-18 transmisison and the L134 Go Devil bell housing.   The trans will slide right out like conventional. 

      Next will be to research the D-20 to D-18 transfer case mod threads that Ken (Oldtime) created a couple of years back.   I don't have his link located quite yet, but he has a wealth of information to be digested.

     Ugh, i have way too many projects with most of them on the back burner.    hahahaha

Geesh with all of life's interruptions, it has been a long journey, and with waiting for parts as i figure out that  "oh yeah"  i need more pieces and parts.

     I waited weeks patiently for my machinist to set aside time for my needs, aside from his good money making projects.

     Looking back,  I had a most wonderful experience sampling electrodes for welding cast iron only to discover that the Harris 99 nickel rod was my Candy.    Good god the stuff flows in like molten solder, and ran low heat like Lincoln and Ken (oldtime) suggested.    No cracking yet in all the pieces i have welded with the Harris 99.   I even used my 1957 Lincoln SA-200 portable welder for this project.  I had to clean up and service the welder for the task, and sold it for $2800 when finished.    ha  $$$  to help fund the Addiction.

      I'm kinda thinking a Tera 3:1  transfer case gear set would compliment the Scout 4:1 T-18.   :)

      Last night is slid the L134 Willys bell housing over the indexing front bearing retainer adapter, and bolted it up to the T98 / T18 mix  T18.    The Mix !!    You can only imagine the idea's i have in my brain which is not yet on paper.   I wanted to get a photo to share of the Trans / Bell-housing pair.

   Above:   IH Scout T-18 input cut down to the T-90 template, and T-90 Throw-out bearing and Carrier.   Note:   the Carrier needed to be cut back 1/4-inch to move the Throw-out Bearing rear-ward because of the "Coffee Cup Coaster" adapter / brg retainer moves things forward approx. 1/4-inch.

   Above:    threw my Starrett dial indicator on the Scout T-18 Output for Run-Out.   Was spot-on !

   Above:    Look into my One-Eye  !!     hahahaha

Amazing how perserverence and lack of patience does pay-off after days and dayz or getting Dayzed !!   LoL

The new throwout fork i ordered from Peter DeBella and most of my other 'stuff' (goodies).

Funny how for us big boys, the Willy's parts supplier's are like Candy Stores.    hahahaha  _ _ kids !

   Above:    mock-up of the Bell-housing with throw-out brg and carrier assembly in place, but nothing pressed together.

     Note:    If you look closely at the Willys Service Manual, you will see very clearly, the nodule for the throw-out brg carrier "return-spring" is near the rear of the carrier.

Most all carrier's i found showed the nodule near the Front.    The Best Fit sold by DeBella is the only one i found in my internet searches with the nodule at the rear, giving me room on the front for the bearing seat to be cut-back the required 1/4" for this whole apparatussus to work.     snicker.

     Above:    please note this set-up is not for Sissies.   the Ford truck T-98 case and bell housing flange bolts and holes are 9/16" diameter.    Overkill, but it is what i drug in in my parts gathering, which i did before doing any Research of what I was looking for.    Don't we all ?    hahaha

   Above:     I'll be go to Hell.    The Dream i constructed hundreds of times in my brain since 1984 has come to Fruition and Reality.    If you want to know the real truth,  i would have been screwed if it were not for Moser Engineering's willingness to cut my input shaft, and my machinist, Mark, @ A&A Welding and Machine for his willingness to tackle my menagerie.    good good stuff.

     Above:    Modified IH Scout / Ford mix Borg Warner T-18 top view.