Installing a SM420 behind a Dauntless
Printed From: The CJ2A Page
Category: CJ-2A Discussion Area
Forum Name: Modifications from original
Forum Description: Show off what mods you can do to a CJ-2A or questions about mods.
URL: https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=44732
Printed Date: 18 Apr. 2024 at 12:05pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Installing a SM420 behind a Dauntless
Posted By: AKoller
Subject: Installing a SM420 behind a Dauntless
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 3:49am
|
I've been kicking around how to achieve a lower crawl ratio in Thumper my 1950 3A for sometime now. My current crawl ratio with the factory T90a, D18 and 4.89 gears (not factory) is an unacceptable 34:1. My original plan was go with the 3.15 Teraflex gears. I have a big hole D18 out of a late 60's Dauntless powered CJ5 that I was planning to use. That set up would get me to a crawl ratio of 43:1. After much thought I decided that was not quite going to be as low as I wanted to be. So I looked onto other options. After some more research I've decided to put in a SM420. It will get me to a 85:1 crawl ratio and is a straight bolt up transmission to my Dauntless V6. The negative about this setup is the overall length is 3.5" longer (with the Novak adapter to the D18) and 3" taller than the T90. I will need to cut out the floor board, move the transfer case back and change driveshaft lengths. The other option is to move the engine forward (still have to cut the floor). So here is my plan as of right now. After doing some quick and dirty measuring it appears I have enough room to move the Dauntless forward the 3.5" I need. I will have to remove my mechanical fan and install an electric pusher fan on the front of the radiator. I believe I can fit a thermostat operated, 16" fan that is rated at 3500 CFM. That should be more than enough to cool the Dauntless V6 with my current aluminum radiator. The motor mount on the driver side will need to be modified to clear my steering shaft running to my Saginaw steering box. The exhaust of course will need to be lengthened as well. I do intend on using the big hole D18 I have just in case at some point I decide to go with the 3.15 Teraflex gears to get to a 109:1 crawl ratio. Is there anything in my plan that is throwing any red flags? I try to go into every project with a clear and concise plan to avoid any unexpected work or expenses. Please share your experiences in order to help this project along as smoothly as possible. I will upload pictures of the transmission and transfer case tomorrow when I have a little more time. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Replies:
Posted By: Mike S
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 4:07am
|
I have an SM420 and Dauntless in my shop right now. Researxh tells me that a Ford T18 with AA bell housing and D18 adaptor will be a few inches shorter than the SM420. I will be following this to see what folks have to say... ------------- '47 CJ2A -- #114542 Warn FF D41 rear Lock-Right locker 11" drum brakes Dual master cylinder T90C Transmission 16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels Cooper STT Pro tires |
Posted By: nofender
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 11:19am
|
yep - even tho the 420 case is a mere 10 or so inches long, the overall package of the T18 is a couple inches shorter due to an adapter that's barely an inch. Regarding your conversion - I would not be a big fan of moving the engine forward. Now matter what you do, you will end up cutting the body. If you leave the t-case in the stock location, you will get into cutting the trans tunnel. Secondly the shift tower will likely be nearly under the dash. So you may have to get creative on the shape of the shifter cane. Were it me (and it was once) I would leave the motor where it is and modify the drive shafts. I used an advance adapter chain drive for the clutch as your pivot point change. It was a major upgrade. If anything I would really look at side to side engine location. The reverse hump on the 420 could be a challenge when fitting a front driveshaft if the position isn't right. By leaving the motor in the stockish location, you gain some length on the front shaft, which might be helpful. The beauty of all this is that you can mount things anywhere you want, anywhere that works. You plan is by no means bad. But I'm a bit fan of keeping weight as balanced as possible. Pushing the motor forward 3.5 inches would make a difference. Noticeable? maybe not. But that's just my preference. ------------- 46 CJ2a rockcrawler 46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 12:29pm
I'm not saying your wrong but it has been my experience that the more weight over the front you have the better it is for climbing both hills and obstacles. That being said, I don't know how much will change in the way of going down hills or obstacles. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
nofender wrote:Posted By: flatfender47
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 2:26pm
|
How was the V6 mounted, using stock V6 frame mounts ? I'd leave the engine alone and just install the 420 and work from there. That's what I did. Re-doing the driveshafts will be the easiest part, so don't fret that. ------------- 1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 2:43pm
I used the engine mounts from a CJ5 frame. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Gaffer
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 3:33pm
|
Have you read "Dauntless Drivetrain Change" by jeepfever here on the cj2a page. He is running the sm420 and Buick V6 if I recall. ------------- -Gaffer |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 4:16pm
|
For all Dauntless flatties I would keep the TC exactly in the standard fore/ aft location. 134 Willys engines were 1-1/2" left of frame CL. Dauntless engines were 3/4" left of frame CL. That said the flatfender TC location need to be moved 3/4" to the right. With TC in standard location a T18 bolted direct behind Dauntless will allow you to use normal fan. The grill preshroud will need to be shortened exactly 1". Shortening the preshroud works great. Shortening 1" narrows the grill preshroud and so it then fits the width of the Dauntless 17" Modine radiator. Shortening simultaneously moves the grill CL over to match up with the proper CL of the Dauntless engine. I can link you to my post if you want detail. No detail on SM 420 applications. ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 5:35pm
I am on lunch at work, and don't really have time to digest what Alan is currently planning to offer opinion. I can share a little about my swap. First off, I went with a selection of components mainly because I had already collected them over the years. At the time I got each of them, they were cheap and thought they would be the "ultimate", without really knowing how they would fit together. First thing I acquired many years ago was '74 flanged axle D44 rear, then a '80 D300 transfer case (centered output to match rear) and lower gears (2.62) than D20/18, SM420, lowest granny gear and shortest case of the 4-speeds. A couple notes, - the Novak adapter for SM420 to D300 is shorter than SM420 to D18/20. (total length of tranny/xfer assembly is almost as short as T18 D18/20) - there is virtually no clearance issue with SM420 bulge and front driveshaft - biggest issue with front driveshaft is exhaust clearance. I tucked the exhaust between driveshaft and tranny to keep away from rocks as much as possible, but it is tight. I could probably think of more, but running out of time, and does not address Alan's situation. I do really like this setup. Very quiet going down the road with straight thru xfer and 3.73 gears, yet with 69:1 can still offroad reasonably well.
Will be watching the thread, and will help where I can. |
Posted By: flatfender47
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 7:28pm
|
So if your engine was anywhere close to mine using the factory V6 mounts, the 420 shifter will move forward approx 4" from the T90 position and the twin sticks for D18 will move back 6-7 inches. All will have to be heated/bent for proper use position. I used the Novak adapter. ------------- 1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 10 May 2019 at 9:19pm
I have. Lots of good information from Ron in there but not all applicable since he used the D300 in his. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 12:49am
|
I have done this conversion(s) but in Jeepster commandos with the v-6. If you only want a lower first gear and do a heck of a lot of very serious crawling, it might be a good for you. But on the hiway the sm420 sucks due to the jump between 2nd and third gear Thiere is a huge gap in gear ratio. Many times first gear proves to be to low. No forward momentum or it's so slow going down hill and the azz end wants to come around. WE tested this out on the Rubicon, Dusy, Bronco Canyon, and Lions back. If you went with a t-98 or t-18 married up to a D-300 with a low kit , followed up by a D-44 flanged centered rear end with 4.27 gears , you might find it to be a great system. Personaly, there's nothing like an automatic with a D-300 W/low kit with 4.27 rear end gears. Just a thought guys. ------------- Jim CJ-2A - 81299 |
Posted By: nivrat
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 7:26am
|
Sorry to disagree but the claim that a 420 is not highway friendly due to the gap between 2nd and 3rd gear ratio is not supported by the facts. If we use Novak's knowledge base we see that the gear ratios for an SM420 are - 1st- 7, 2nd- 3.6, 3rd- 1.7, 4th- 1. T18/T98- 1st- 6.32/6.4, 2nd- 3.09, 3rd 1.69, 4th-1. Having ran most all of the granny boxes I can tell you that the SM420 actually has less of a jump to 3rd from 2nd than the T18 (3.6 to 1.7 is less of a jump than 3.09 to 1.69). 3rd to 4th in virtually all the granny boxes is essentially the same. Having ran a T18 for years I also discovered the NP435 which IMO has better gearing than the T18, although with an adapter winds up being 2.5" inches longer. The 420 is also longer than the T18 but it has the lowest 1st gear of any of the truck 4 speeds. The bottom line is that any of the truck 4 speeds can be made to fit in a 3A with a Dauntless. Yes, you will have to cut your floor but new floorpans can be fabbed. In my 47 2A I wanted as long a rear driveline as possible so I mounted my radiator as far forward as possible. I'm using a stock fan on a 252 Buick V6 with a fan clutch sourced from a Jaguar(it has a shorter shaft than factory). I placed my engine mounts 1" to the drivers side and am running Saginaw power steering. My front driveline clears the hump on the 420 no problem. I have room for Novak headers and duals all the way to the rear corners. My rear driveline is 15-16" long, and its relatively flat. I use a stock crossmember bolted directly to the frame with no spacers. I didn't want to lose any belly clearance. All it cost me was a little larger hole in the floor. I also use a chain clutch and can attest to the improvement it is over the stock linkage. The rest of my drivetrain- SM420/D18/OD and 4.88's. I have an 84:1 crawl ratio and can do 65-70 on the interstate all day long. You asked about red flags- just my opinion here, but for me 109:1 crawl is too slow for my liking. I have learned that for me anything at least 70:1 and lower works best for me. At 84:1 in my flattie I spend a lot of time in 3rd and 4th. The last time I was on the 'Con i took my 75 and 79:1 got me through just fine. Anything is doable with some careful planning. You're off to a great start with some great components, and you're already getting some great advice from the likes of those listed above, so, go for it! Take your time and enjoy your build. And, keep us posted!  Oh, and we love pics!FWIW, Mike
|
Posted By: nofender
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 9:50am
Can't say I disagree with the climbing advantage. I've just found a preference for balance. But I'm coming from a perspective of wanting to carry some speed in the rough. Too much weight up front makes the rear want to dance like J-Lo. I concede that my take on things is a bit skewed as I tend to mount motors as close to the center of the chassis as possible. I've found it works best for my kind of wheeling/driving. ------------- 46 CJ2a rockcrawler 46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 4:06pm
I agree with nivrat totally except
The numbers are right but surely that must be some kinda new math !!! One should consider that the there are a couple smart combinations to get a 70 something crawl ratio from the T18 and still have excellent hiway gears. 6.32 (T18) X 2.46 (D18) X 4.89 (Differential) plus 25% O.D. = 76/1 crawl and 3.66 hiway ratio. 6.32 (T18) X 3.16 (D20) X 3.73 (Differential) = 74/1 crawl and 3.73 hiway ratio One thing I did not like about an SM 420 is the loose or "sloppy feel" of the shifter. ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: jpet
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 5:45pm
|
I personally like my 107:1 crawl ratio. Is it necessary? ... not really, but when I’m hanging on chewy hill trying to make the off camber right hand turn, and the Jeep keeps pitching more and more as I go forward, and my nervousness starts messing with my logic, I appreciate the extra time to think it through. But then again, I get more nervous than most. To each their own. Edit: the higher your CG, the more it matters .... also, don’t forget to include your tire size. We have a lot of discussions where we we talk about gears but not often do we throw the tire size in which affects the math. ------------- CJ2A #29110 "General Willys" MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 6:39pm
|
This is all good stuff guys. I do appreciate all the experience shared on this forum. I’ve had a busy weekend we’re I haven’t really had time to digest the information given to me. As Jeff mentioned some more information on tire size might be helpful. I’m currently running 33” tires with 2.5” lift springs and I have body mounts I made out of poly that are 1/2” thick. Some more information that may help the discussion of balance is I have weighed my Jeep at the local grain elevator scale and the rear end believe it or not weighs 80 lbs more than the front end. It was suggested to me off this thread that if I move the engine forward 3.5” I should move the front axle forward 2” (which there is room for on the factory frame horns). Keep the comments and discussion going on this. All of it helps. Thanks, Alan ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 11 May 2019 at 10:15pm
|
Tire diameter alone (not including all the other tire specs.) influences... Body clearance, Terrain clearance, Roll Resistance, Steering angle, Ride height or COG and Gearing. The standard 6.00 x 16" NDT was about 28.5 tall. If you go up to a 31" tire then that is right near a 10% diameter increase. The standard Differential Ratio (DR) prior to 11/62 was 5.38. When you go to a 4.89 DR then its essentially the same 10% difference as having a larger diameter tire. No tire nor jeep does "everything" best. Aim for the perfect balance of specifications to suit your needs. The Complete Synchronous System ! Allen..... what size tires are you running on 31's ? If so then due to 4.89 DR your effectively crawling 20% faster than the standard 37/1 crawl. About the tallest tires guys ever run are the NSS tires as seen on Gus. Those puppies are about 25% taller than standard. ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: windyhill
Date Posted: 12 May 2019 at 1:25am
|
I've had a sm420, put together a sm465 and also an T18 with a 225 and dana 18 transference. After doing all three I hands down would go with the T18 4 speed. It's easier to rebuild, novak adapter was only 1" thick, then I modified my stock v6 bell housing and t-18 front retainer for a very nice overall combo, with a great granny gear. I've had this setup in my 3B for 15 years now with no issues what so ever. even found a stock clutch, pressure plate set from a late 70's CJ combo that worked. My drive shafts stayed the same, no mods. I run 1" super lift springs, a little longer heavy duty shackles and cj5 body mounts which give me just the right lift for 32" Super Swampers. ------------- '48 CJ2A '53 CJ3B '59 CJ6 '65 CJ5 '67 CJ5 |
Posted By: masscj2a
Date Posted: 12 May 2019 at 10:45am
|
windyhill, I'm putting in that combo right now. T18 behind a Dauntless, Dana 18 big hole and hopefully the Dual-Matic OD. ------------- 1946 CJ2a Dauntless aka Jalopy 1946 VEC stock 1981 CJ-8 5.3 LS 1966 CJ-6 SBC TUX 1968 CJ-6 225 V6 1974 CJ-6 4.2 1967 M-416 East Coast Modified CJ's |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 13 May 2019 at 12:32pm
After a busy mothers day weekend here are the pictures of the components i promised you. The first 2 are the SM420 I plan to use in this conversion. Next is the Big hole (4" Inlet) D18 transfer case. The last image is just the donor transfer case I picked up several weeks ago that I will steal the twin stick front bearing cap from. Now hopefully in the next few weeks I will start with the teardown and inspection of the components. I plan to reseal both the tranny and transfer case. After getting into them I will see if I will need any gears or bearing.     ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 17 May 2019 at 1:44pm
Some progress was made on this project last night. I was able to get the big hole Dana 18 that I'm using in the swap torn down. I will get the case steam cleaned at work today and hopefully this weekend get all the small parts cleaned up and inspected. I hope to get parts ordered for it either Sunday or Monday so I can go back together with it next weekend. Is Novak my best bet for purchasing the parts for the transfer case? I am wanting an intermediate shaft that has the o-ring seals.   As you can see I have my ace mechanic on the job giving me direction. It's my belief that as long as they think they are in charge you're doing it right! In all seriousness my son absolutely loves "wrenching" on the Jeep with me. Hopefully in the next few years we can start on one for him.  ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 17 May 2019 at 3:08pm
|
I don't think Novak sells the Tera Low gear set. They do have the best intermediate shafts. They have them hardened and grooved for the O-rings. Most of the other parts they send you will be Crown stuff that you can get anywhere, but if your getting their shaft, might as well get their whole kit. ------------- Stan 48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep) 59 Chevy 1/2 ton https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread |
Posted By: Bridog
Date Posted: 17 May 2019 at 6:45pm
Glad to see him right in there working with you on it and I am sure you are loving it just as much as he is! |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 17 May 2019 at 6:51pm
Of course we all brag on our kids and we all think our kids are the smartest around... but Brennen actually gets it. I explained to him last night while disassembling the transfer case how it all works and he understands. It absolutely amazes me. He helped me install the locker in the front differential several months ago and it was the same with that. In a way he reminds me of Dillon! ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 17 May 2019 at 6:53pm
I took some time during lunch today to get my case steam cleaned. Is there a way to tell what year the transfer case is from the casting #'s. I've read enough to know that this is the 6th varience in this series case but i don't know much past that. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 17 May 2019 at 10:53pm
|
I can see the date of manufacture right there on the case. 11-18-75. That date matches perfectly with my best guess for the Dana 20 version 6 big hole cases. An excellent case and luckily yours happens to be tapped for a right side fill plug. ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: snave
Date Posted: 18 May 2019 at 3:35am
|
Alan, how wonderful to see the next generation of "Flatty drivers"! Keep him close and let him do as much as he can. Great to see! Fuzz ------------- Fuzz |
Posted By: nivrat
Date Posted: 18 May 2019 at 4:29am
|
FWIW, I have used Novak's rebuild kits for my transmission and transfer case rebuilds for many years now. They are complete with everything you need and have rebuild instructions included. When I do a rebuild I start with a clean case. I wash them out with dishwashing liquid to insure they're completely grease free, dry them with compressed air and chase all the threads. Then I give the entire case a good coat of rustoleum. I give the inside a couple of coats. Those old castings had a tendency to let a little seepage occur and the rustoleum tends to seal it up inside. I then put a couple of coats of high temp gloss black engine enamel on the outside. I've settled on "The Right Stuff" for coating gasket surfaces and all bolt threads, particularly any bolts that go through to the inside of the case. All gasket surfaces get touched on with a file, and the bottom cover gets a little hammer tap or two around all the bolts holes to flatten the mating surface. Once I've reassembled I let it sit overnight for the gasket sealer to cure. This has worked well for me over the years to minimize leaks. Very cool that you're sharing the experience with the little ones. That time spent together will never be forgotten by either of you.:-) Good luck with your build and keep the pics coming! Mike
|
Posted By: Rick G
Date Posted: 19 May 2019 at 2:53am
|
Alan, I’m using the Novak shaft. It certainly is harder than the other repo’s offered and much more pricey. It probably is worth it, but the way I use Gus, it may be difficult to tell (slow speeds and not many miles per year). In my experience, the O rings are worthless, however. You can’t install the shaft without cutting them.
------------- 1947 CJ2a #119929 "Gus" 1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268 “Newt” https://youtube.com/channel/UCzTVBgCMit8vi2lFgnKs9YQ" rel="nofollow - My Videos |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 19 May 2019 at 3:49am
I have heard of others having the same issue. Did you bevel your case to help prevent this from happening? ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Rick G
Date Posted: 19 May 2019 at 3:12pm
Nope, I just left them out. I used a thin film of RTV and filled up the o-ring groove. ------------- 1947 CJ2a #119929 "Gus" 1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268 “Newt” https://youtube.com/channel/UCzTVBgCMit8vi2lFgnKs9YQ" rel="nofollow - My Videos |
Posted By: nivrat
Date Posted: 19 May 2019 at 4:04pm
|
When I put the shafts in with the O rings I spray some WD or PB on the O ring and then tap nice and easy as the O ring meets the case. That seems to work for me. I will say though that I chewed up the O rings on the first one I ever did, prompting me to try a different approach...YMMV FWIW, Mike
|
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 20 May 2019 at 12:30pm
Yesterday after church I was able to steal a few hours in the garage to get all the parts cleaned up for my transfer case. I will get the parts I need ordered today so I can hopefully have them before next weekend. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 22 May 2019 at 12:47pm
Not a huge amount of progress but it is progress. With all the needed parts on order and everything I'm reusing cleaned up I decided I would go as far as i could with putting together what i could. The rest of my parts should arrive this afternoon according to the USPS tracking. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 24 May 2019 at 12:35pm
I didn't have a lot of time yesterday evening to work on my transfer case but I did manage to get the end play set on the output shaft, front bearing retainer install and intermediate shaft in. Every step forward is getting me closer to the finished product. I hope to get the transfer case done Saturday and then start in on the SM420. I need to get it stripped down and cleaned up to see what all it's going to need for parts. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 28 May 2019 at 2:28pm
|
I finished up my transfer case for this swap Saturday morning. Well at least as far as I can go with it for now. I plan on moving the yokes and parking brake parts over from the transfer case that is currently in the Jeep since those parts were all installed new not long ago. I went ahead and painted the case as well. I then brought the transmission up the shop and started in on it. I got it disassembled Saturday morning and gave it a good once over to see what all I will need to replace. Looks like I will only need seals, bearings and I will go ahead and replace the synchronizers since I'm there but honestly they look really good. That's were any progress on this project came to a stop this weekend. I spent the afternoon and evening at my parents place cutting up a MASSIVE hackberry tree that came down in a storm this week. Then Sunday night we had another storm come through our area that brought 85-90 MPH straight line winds and took out the power to my place at 1:30 in the morning Monday. I decided to get the generator started up about 8:00 in the morning so I would loose any of the food in the fridge or the freezer. That's when the excitement started. Not 15 minutes after starting the generator I had smoke coming from the basement. I ran down to see what was going on and found flames coming from the breaker box. My wife got herself and the kids out of the house and called 911. I grabbed the fire extinguisher and got the fire put out but not before it filled the house with smoke. If you know what electrical fires smell like you can imagine what my house now smells like. The fire department showed up along with an ambulance and several county sheriff deputies. The fire department checked the house with their fire camera for anymore hot spots and brought fans in to clear the smoke from the house. After they gave the "all clear" I called an electrician out to inspect what went wrong. Apparently when the power company switched out my meter several months ago they failed to hook up the ground and common for the generator lead. He made the necessary repairs and we started the generator back up and found all to be good. Power came back on at about 9:00 last night. Below is the pictures of the progress I did make over the weekend and I also threw in a couple picture of a irrigation circle just to the south of my house that took out the power lines. I thank God for giving protection to my family and myself and for the first responders that helped us out yesterday. It all could have been much worse. Now I hope to get back to working on my Jeep.       ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Rick G
Date Posted: 28 May 2019 at 2:41pm
|
PTL Alan that no major damage occurred and y’all are safe!!! ------------- 1947 CJ2a #119929 "Gus" 1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268 “Newt” https://youtube.com/channel/UCzTVBgCMit8vi2lFgnKs9YQ" rel="nofollow - My Videos |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 04 June 2019 at 2:01pm
I have the case cleaned up and ready to go back together. I will get a final cleaning done on all the internals this evening and start going back together. The parts all showed up at the end of last week so i should be good to go now. If all goes well I will have the transmission back together in the next few days. I'm getting down to the point that I'm going to have to cut loose of some money and buy my adapter from Novak. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 05 June 2019 at 2:38pm
Well, the wife and kids were out of town for the day so i took advantage of an evening without any distractions. I got all the internal parts cleaned and nearly finished assembling the transmission. As you can see in one of the photos i am using some flat washers as rear bearing retainers until I receive the adapter from Novak. I stuck the cane in the tranny just to check to see if everything is shifting correctly. I will of course remove it when I go to install it in the Jeep.    ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 21 June 2019 at 12:25pm
Well, now it's time to get to work! I will try to find time this weekend to get started on the swap. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 24 June 2019 at 12:31pm
I took some time Sunday to get the transmission and transfer case mated together. I am very impressed with the fitment of the Novak adapter. It seems to be very high quality. This week I will start with the swap. Its hard to make very good time at it when I have two kids playing softball and baseball. I am at the ballpark 4 nights a week.     It looks like this setup is 4 inches longer than the T90/D18 setup currently in the Jeep. I currently have an adapter plate from the Buick bellhousing to the T90 that is 2.5" thick that will be eliminated. After some measuring yesterday it does look like I will need to make some changes to the exhaust on the passenger side. My muffler is only about 3 inches behind the transfer case so it will need to be moved. I'm not sure what I will do with that yet. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 17 July 2019 at 1:12pm
|
I have had little to no progress over the last 3-4 weeks. With my daughter playing fast pitch softball and my son playing teeball I found myself at a ball diamond 4-5 nights a week during the month of June. My nights away from the ball field consisted of mowing the yard and other house projects. We then took our family vacation in the first half of July. Now that the dust has settled it is time to get back at it with this project. With reservations made for the 3rd week of September for a wheeling trip in Colorado I need to get busy. I was able to get a few hours in the garage last night working on it. The skid plate, drive shafts, speedometer cable, brake cable and shifters are all removed. With any luck tonight I will have the T90/D18 out of the Jeep.   ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 18 July 2019 at 12:32pm
After 69 years of loyal service the original T90/D18 combo has been removed from Thumper. With it on the floor I was able to do a lot of measuring on both the old and the new gear boxes. I think I have devised a plan on installing the Sm420 in the Jeep where I will actually gain about 1/2" of ground clearance. We will see how that goes when I actually go to installing it in the Jeep. This evening I will go pick up a transmission jack from my uncle so this weekend I can start installing the SM420.   ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 22 July 2019 at 12:46pm
Got some more work in on the swap yesterday after church. I was able to pull the T90/D18 out of the Jeep without having to touch the motor. I had my fingers crossed that I would be able to install the new setup doing the same... I was not so lucky. I was not able to get my Buick bell housing off of my Dauntless V6 with how tight it fits up to the firewall. So with the "help" of my son I unhooked the necessary components from the engine and dropped it down in the engine compartment far enough to remove the bell housing.   After trying to install the bell housing on the front of the SM420 I remembered that I had read somewhere that a little grinding was necessary for clearance for the top loader.   With the bell housing installed I decided to move onto the crossmember/skid plate. Originally my plan was to build my own but I remembered that I had an extra factory assembly in the barn so I dug it out and started looking at what it would take to modify it instead. After some measuring I chose to go this route.  I still have a little work to do to this set up but I am very happy with how it is turning out. With the transmission bolted to the skid plate, measuring from the floor up to the center point of the input shaft I have maintained the exact same height as the factory T90! When I originally built the Jeep I had installed 1/2" spacers between the crossmember and the frame to flatten out my rear driveline. It was totally unnecessary as the rear driveline was almost flat. I will not use the spacers again so I will gain that 1/2" of ground clearance. All said and done I should have 14.5" of ground clearance to the bottom of the skid plate.   I will still need to cut my transmission hump to accommodate for the taller transmission but it will be minimal.  ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Metcalf
Date Posted: 22 July 2019 at 3:37pm
|
With the SM420 the shifter will be really far forward under the front edge of the dash usually. Just be prepared to heavily rework the shifter cane for that issue. ------------- 42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck. |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 22 July 2019 at 4:59pm
I was looking at that yesterday. looks like it will need some severe tweaking. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 24 July 2019 at 12:32pm
Last night I finished bolting up all the odds and ends pieces to the SM420/D18 assembly. Now it has assumed the position on the transmission jack. I have my dad coming over this evening for an extra set of hands and eyes. With a little luck I hope to have it bolted in the Jeep by the time I hit the hay tonight.   It is amazing how much heavier this set up is than the factory T90/D18. I could fairly easily pick up and move around the old assembly. I had to use my engine hoist to set this new assembly on the transmission jack. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 26 July 2019 at 2:57am
From what I have read, the SM 420 is only 60 lbs. heavier than a T-90. "Only 60 lbs. heavier"... ------------- There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable |
Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 26 July 2019 at 3:45am
|
You are making good progress! Like Metcalf shared, I also had to put a significant bend in the tranny shifter to clear the dash. You are going to love that 7:1 low gear. |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 26 July 2019 at 3:57am
I’m not sure what the big hole D18 weighs but I’m guessing this package with the adapter is right around 200lbs. That is plenty when your fat and out of shape like me!
------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 26 July 2019 at 4:03am
Progress doesn’t seem to be happening fast enough. I need to have this this done by the 14th of September to head to Colorado with it. I’m also planning on changing carburetors before I go. Oh, and changing cooling fans to an electric and I would like to have this all done by Labor Day weekend because I would like to take it up to Tuttle Creek off-road park for a shakedown run. That would give me a little time to change something if I need to. This seems a little reminiscent of another guy I know trying to do a similar swap before a Rubicon trip!
------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 26 July 2019 at 4:39am
Trying to balance work/family and Jeeps is tough.  Just not enough time in a day.
Haha, yeah, last year about this time, was a little stressful.  I was just telling someone about it last week. (that I changed out entire drivetrain, then used Rubicon Trail as test bed.  ) I was so lucky that everything held up. Your workmanship looks great, you should have no issues. What carb are you swapping? Now that the stock '68 Rochester 2GC on mine seems dialed in, I really like it. |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 26 July 2019 at 12:32pm
I am planning on going to a Motorcraft 2100 with Metcalf's "off-road kit" on it. I have been around several Jeeps that have been running the 2100 and I have been very impressed. They will make you look at a carbureted engine completely different. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 26 July 2019 at 1:39pm
He has not wheeled with it for years, but it used to surprise me how well it would do in fairly extreme wheeling. Good luck on your upgrades, looking forward to see how it turns out.
|
Just not enough time in a day.
I was just telling someone about it last week. (that I changed out entire drivetrain, then used Rubicon Trail as test bed. 
) I was so lucky that everything held up. Your workmanship looks great, you should have no issues.Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 26 July 2019 at 3:36pm
Dana 18 with park brake assembly weighs in at roughly 85 pounds. Assuming the SM420 weighs 120 pounds and then theirs the adpater, the bell and crossmember. So you've got well over 200 pounds setting on your transmission jack.  ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 26 July 2019 at 8:44pm
Novak's site lists the SM420 at 135 lbs. The adapter from Novak weighs in at close to 20 lbs. We are sitting at a good 240 lbs it sounds like. I just know it is plenty for me to man handle around while getting it set up. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 27 July 2019 at 2:31am
|
One thing that is going to need to be modified with this swap is the clutch linkage. The pivot ball on the transfer case will be roughly 4” farther back in the Jeep. I was looking at the AA roller chain clutch control setup this afternoon online. Are any of you guys using this system and if so how do you like it? I was thinking now would be as good of a time as any to try a different control system...
------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 1:47pm
I spent a few hours yesterday afternoon pulling the engine out of Thumper. Not what I was planning on doing but for the life of me could not get the tranny and engine coupled together. I needed to get it all out in the open where I could try to figure out what the problem is. It wasn't too big of deal because I already had the engine just basically hanging in the engine compartment. All that was left to pull it out was to unhook a couple wires, fuel line, radiator and heater hoses. After getting it out in the open I tried again to couple the engine and tranny together and it went right together. Apparently I just didn't have things lined up right in the Jeep. On the bright side I have some work I am needing to do to the lower end of my steering column and that will be much easier with the engine out. This evening I will figure out what parts I need for the column and try to get those ordered. Hopefully in a few days I will be going back together with it.  ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 3:39pm
|
I have 3 different clutch control systems for Dauntless jeeps and none of them are hydraulic. 1) The typical Jeep "lever and tube" type clutch control. 2) The 1970/1971 Dauntless "cable" type clutch control 3) The AA "Buschert chain" type clutch control. Future projects, so I'm not really sure which I'll end up using. Probably go with the OEM cable control. ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 4:31pm
After some looking at the AA roller chain control I convinced myself that I can make my own at a fraction of the price. I gathered all the necessary materials yesterday for about $30. We'll see how it turns out.... ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 6:00pm
I am not familiar with #2, might have to look that up. In drivetrain swap last year, I stuck with old "lever and tube". Had to move things around, and make a bracket to attach to SM420/xfer. Seems to work ok, I have had Wilson in many frame-twisting situations with no issues. I have often thought though that I would like to try something different from a tube that floats between the frame and drivetrain. Will be interesting to see what you come up with.
|
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 6:13pm
I will try to remember to take some good detailed pictures of what I come up with as I go. All I can say right now is it works really smooth in my head. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Metcalf
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 6:57pm
|
I wish there was a way to get rid of the pivot point under the frame, that thing is a snag magnet. ( for people that want to keep the floor pedal system )
------------- 42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck. |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 7:20pm
I was looking at that yesterday as well. I'm thinking of making a slider plate under it to try to avoid snagging it. If I remember right I think Stan did something to that effect on Grandpa's Jeep. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 7:51pm
|
So Allen what's up with your starter... Looks like something is wrapped around it. I know these normally have large solenoids... but that on looks to be larger than the starter. ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: nofender
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 8:23pm
|
I have nothing to add - other than to say that picture of the assembled drivetrain makes me tingle all over. It's a thing a beauty. ------------- 46 CJ2a rockcrawler 46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 8:29pm
Last summer while wheeling in Colorado I had trouble with an aftermarket starter that was on the Jeep. Apparently the heat off the exhaust was breaking down the solenoid causing the starter to not work. I had an OEM starter along so I put it back on but before doing so I wrapped in with some 1/8" thick foil back insulation to try to keep some heat off the starter. I never had a problem with it again. Not sure if the insulation made the difference or just the fact it was a better quality starter. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Metcalf
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 9:55pm
Yup, Stan had to skidplate his because he kept bending/breaking/jamming things up by landing on the pivot all the time. It would be better if you just didn't have to worry about giving up that extra 2-3" under the frame in that area. Personally, I would do everything possible to have the belly be as flat to the frame as practical. It is very much worth it in the end. ------------- 42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck. |
Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 29 July 2019 at 11:10pm
Usually Brennan’s ideas are better than mine, but they also usually involve more skills and patience than I have. You can see the skid plates I made for the cross tube and cross member here in my build thread starting on page 18. https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836_page18.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836_page18.html After running and bashing them some on the rocks I made a modification to the cross tube (drivers side) seen here on page 20. https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836_page20.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836_page20.html
------------- Stan 48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep) 59 Chevy 1/2 ton https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread |
Posted By: otto
Date Posted: 30 July 2019 at 1:22am
------------- 47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine 48 CJ2A 64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle! |
Posted By: jeepsterjim
Date Posted: 30 July 2019 at 1:41am
|
Go hydraulic! Soooo nice! Customers really liked the upgrade. Used a pull style slave cyld. which mounts behind the fork clutch. simply used a Jeep clutch master cyld. ------------- Jim CJ-2A - 81299 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 30 July 2019 at 2:07pm
|
Last night I started to investigate what was going to be required to get my steering tightened up. When I built the Jeep I used a steering column out of a 1978 CJ-7 (which it actually is just a GM column.) I found that the lower column shaft bearing was gone. I removed what was left of the inner and outer bearing races. This morning I found that Quadratec offers a "lower column bearing kit". This kit includes all parts needed to make it like new again. They actually offer kits from 2 different manufacturers, Crown and Omix. The Crown kit is a few dollars more but since I have never liked the quality of most Omix stuff I ordered the Crown parts. I really don't want to put the engine back in till I have the steering back together. It just gets really tight to work down in the corner with the engine sitting there so until the column parts show up I will starting making my components for my new clutch control.   ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 31 July 2019 at 12:54pm
While I'm waiting on bearings to show up for my steering column I decided to start working on the pieces for the roller chain clutch control that I decided to make on my own. It is nothing fancy but I believe it should work...    ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 31 July 2019 at 3:40pm
|
Pretty nice Allen, and so far it's looking just like the Buschert chain control ! ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 31 July 2019 at 9:16pm
I forgot to include this in one of my previous posts: Before I found the replacement bearings for the lower end of my steering column I came into work early on Tuesday to "borrow" one of the shops lathes and made a bushing to go in the column. So, here is my question... Do I go ahead and install this bushing I made above the replacement bearings to kind of help take some of the load off the bearings or just run it without? I personally am thinking I will go ahead and install it above the bearings. Do you guys see this being an issue?? ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 02 Aug. 2019 at 12:30pm
|
I got some more work in on my roller chain clutch control yesterday. I think all that is left is to make the sprocket cover (which I will do today) and install it in the Jeep once I know exactly where everything is going to end up after the engine and transmission are installed. I plan to use carriage bolts to mount it to the frame to try and make is as snag resistant as possible. My steering column parts should be delivered today according to USPS tracking. I will get it put together tomorrow morning and the install the engine and tranny.       ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 05 Aug. 2019 at 1:13pm
|
Got more done on the swap this weekend. The bearings showed up for my steering column so I was able to get it together Saturday morning. I went ahead and installed the bushing I made in the column above the replacement bearings. I think it won't hurt anything being in there. If anything it will help. I got the engine/transmission/transfer case assembly mounted in the Jeep. Cut the floor board and got the crossmember bolted up. When I went in to this project I was hoping to not loose much ground clearance with this swap. Before the swap I had 14" from the floor to the bottom of the skid plate. I now have 15 1/4" to the skid plate for a net gain of 1 1/4". Needless to say I am pleased with how that turned out. I also got my pieces all finished up for the roller chain clutch control. All I have left is to get the roller chain cut to length after I mount the sprocket. This week I hope get my drive shafts done and get everything else bolted up in place. Then on to start trying to figure out the exhaust on the passenger side. I ordered a new cooling fan that I will get mounted in. We will see how it works out. While I'm in the business of changing things I'm going to change the carb as well. Late this week or beginning of next week I will order a Motorcraft 2150. I will have it setup with Metcalf's off-road kit. I just haven't ever been too thrilled with the performance of the factory Rochester 2 Jet on my Dauntless.         ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 05 Aug. 2019 at 2:58pm
|
You make it look so easy!
|
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 05 Aug. 2019 at 6:34pm
If only that were the case. As you well know, anytime you start swapping out components with those that the vehicle isn't set up for you earn it. If someone tries to tell me that any of these swaps are easy they are either lying or they have much more talent than me (which is probable.) ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: masscj2a
Date Posted: 05 Aug. 2019 at 11:46pm
Nice job so far. I have a 46 with Dauntless, waiting for another T18, but also planning another T-18 swap into a early five. Keep going, your getting much closer to done.  ------------- 1946 CJ2a Dauntless aka Jalopy 1946 VEC stock 1981 CJ-8 5.3 LS 1966 CJ-6 SBC TUX 1968 CJ-6 225 V6 1974 CJ-6 4.2 1967 M-416 East Coast Modified CJ's |
Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 4:25am
|
Is there any special reason you didn't remove the front fenders to do this? ------------- There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 12:57pm
The thought had crossed my mind on numerous occasions. It would have made some stuff a bit easier. To be completely honest, what kept me from doing it is I would have had to clean all my tools off of them! ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 9:55pm
One of the lathes at work was available for a little bit today so I got some work done on my rear drive shaft. I've never done any driveshaft work before so I was just trying to figure stuff out as I went. I got the yoke separated from the shaft, shorted the shaft to the proper length and tried to insert the yoke back into the shaft. That's when I realized the shaft had to be counter bored for the yoke. I counter bored the shaft to where it is a press fit with the yoke. After pressing it together I welded it together.... I guess we'll see how this works out. The good new is, if I screwed this up I do have a few extra rear drive shafts.     ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 08 Aug. 2019 at 5:42pm
Installed the driveshaft last night with my fingers crossed that it would be at too steep of an angle causing it to bind. Turned out good. The photos below show the rear shaft angle with the rear axle at full droop. I had the jack under the rear bumper with both tires about an inch off the ground.  ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 09 Aug. 2019 at 4:03am
If I added up the cost of all the tools I have lost off the front fenders, I could......buy a new front fender. I tend to test drive before I'm actually ready for that step...  ------------- There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 19 Aug. 2019 at 6:01pm
|
I realized its been a while since my last update. I have gotten the following things done: -Exhaust on the driver side is done (I haven't installed the muffler on the passenger side.) -Everything wired/hooked back up to the engine. -Installed new electric fan. (I was using a mechanical fan and decided I wanted to try a thermostat controlled electric fan. If I don't like it I will go back to the mechanical fan.) -Installed my old carburetor. (I am changing to the Motorcraft 2150 but don't have everything for it yet so just threw the old one on so I can go for a test drive.) -Installed my new homemade roller chain clutch control So all I have left is the following: -Weld new tube in the front driveshaft and install it. -Build the new transmission cover. -Install new Motorcraft 2150 Carburetor I was able to take it for a test drive yesterday evening after finishing a few things on it. I really like the 85:1 crawl ratio. I think it will be adequate... maybe. As for my homemade roller chain clutch control, it works very smooth. It is a huge upgrade from the factory bell crank control. I had a real busy weekend so I was happy to meet my goal of taking it for a drive this weekend. I was busy because Friday morning at 5:20 in the morning I got a call from the sheriffs department asking if my parents were home. I told them the were in NYC with my daughter on a trip before school starts back up. I asked why they needed to know and he responded with "Their house is on fire and we need to know if anyone is home." I had taken them to the airport so all their vehicles were there so when they got on scene they thought people were in the house. Thankfully that wasn't the case. I then had to make the very hard call to let my parents know that the house was on fire and it was going to be a complete loss. If you guys will take the time to say a little prayer for them they could use it. It's all just "things" but a lot of "things" were family heirlooms that came across in boat with my great-great grand parents. That stuff and pictures can't be replaced. Below are a few pictures to show what their house looked like before and now after the fire. The photo was taken from the same spot in the yard. The 3rd photo is standing where their front porch was looking into the basement.    ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Rick G
Date Posted: 20 Aug. 2019 at 4:58am
|
🙏🏻Prayers for you & your family, Alan! Look at how good God is, tho. They could have been at home inside when the fire happened. I know it’s hard to lose “stuff”, but you have your family still and that’s what matters the most. There will be something miraculously good that comes from this! I will be praying for y’all! ------------- 1947 CJ2a #119929 "Gus" 1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268 “Newt” https://youtube.com/channel/UCzTVBgCMit8vi2lFgnKs9YQ" rel="nofollow - My Videos |
Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 20 Aug. 2019 at 1:52pm
|
That's so sad.....such a picturesque home. Sorry for their (and your) loss. ------------- '47 CJ2A PU '48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
Posted By: Ol' Unreliable
Date Posted: 21 Aug. 2019 at 2:11am
|
I joke about how a well-timed house fire can make things easy when it's time to move, but I never really mean it. So sorry to read that it happened. Wait--that doesn't sound right...this fire was NOT well-timed except for the fact that nobody was home at the time. Also, nobody was planning to move... ------------- There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable |
Posted By: bobevans
Date Posted: 21 Aug. 2019 at 2:48am
|
Oh my what a terrible shame. Thank God all are safe. ------------- '48 CJ2A '56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 22 Aug. 2019 at 12:58pm
Finished the front driveshaft last night. Like the rear driveshaft i had to counterbore the tube to fit the yoke and spline piece. I'm not sure if that is the proper way of building a driveshaft but it's how I did it. Looks like there is plenty of clearance for the driveline to move up and down with the suspension. I also got the park brake cable all hooked up and adjusted. I then installed the skid plate. I think the exhaust is all that's left to do under the Jeep. I will stop by the parts store today and buy what I need to complete it.      ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: Metcalf
Date Posted: 22 Aug. 2019 at 6:26pm
|
Is that a 1310 u-joint at the transfer case side? ------------- 42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck. |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 22 Aug. 2019 at 7:20pm
I believe so. It is what the late 60's CJ5's with the V6 came equipped with on the front driveshaft from the factory if I'm not mistaken. I had thought about changing it over to the standard size so I don't have to have several different sizes of u-joints in the Jeep as spares. It is the same size yoke on both ends of the front shaft at least. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: flatfender47
Date Posted: 22 Aug. 2019 at 7:45pm
The smaller factory V6 joint is 5-248X I believe. ------------- 1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s |
Posted By: Metcalf
Date Posted: 22 Aug. 2019 at 7:51pm
|
Gotcha. I thought it looked a little smaller. That was always a hitch with the sm420 reverse bulge and adapter length vs clocking. I had a custom adapter that used an even smaller unit. I just never fully trusted it. ------------- 42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck. |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 26 Aug. 2019 at 4:09pm
I finished the exhaust this weekend and started in on fabricating a new transmission cover. This is the part of the swap I was not looking forward to. I am just not very good at metal work. I hope to have it done by the end of this week. With back to school events for my kids several evenings this week we will have to see.   I'm just using the sheet metal screws to hold it in place while putting it together. Once it is done I will replace the screws with threaded inserts in the tub in order to bolt it down. ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: JeepFever
Date Posted: 26 Aug. 2019 at 4:54pm
|
Are you making drawings as you go, so I can copy it. It is has been a year since I put SM420 in mine, and it still just has a carpet covering the hole. Seriously though, I would not be able to copy yours, because I plan to modify a M38 cover . . . some day.
 |
Posted By: AKoller
Date Posted: 03 Sep. 2019 at 12:39pm
Well, I'm about to wrap this swap up. I finished the transmission cover this weekend. All that's left is to install the shifter boots which I don't have yet. I got quite a few miles on it this weekend both on and off-road. I really like the 85:1 crawl and the added synchronized forward gear. I head to Colorado with it in a few weeks so when I get back I will give full report on how I think it did.   ------------- 1950 CJ3A "Thumper" 1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
Posted By: oldtime
Date Posted: 03 Sep. 2019 at 3:57pm
That's a functional and good looking shift tower cover.  ------------- Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |