How much did they run and what was freight?  How close to original do they look?  Gauge of steel?

Thanks,

Lew

WFB

 

  What did Carl Walck have to say about it ..????

 

It does suck because I was also looking to buy a set

 

Let me first say that Carl is a good guy and if you ask him he will tell you the truth! I bet he never even opened these to inspect them or he would have never sold them!

 

I bought a set of these when they first came out and they didn't look like that. The dog legs where bent correctly and the tubing was the correct dia. and the same correct length.

 

The ones I bought weren't up to my standards and kept them only till originals could be found, but this set after seeing those photos is UNBELIEVABLE.

 

I like to swear too but when I started reading your review I was like OK here we go but when I seen those dog legs I started swearing at my computer.

 

Thats bad! I'd call MD Juan and see if you can find someone who speaks English to scream at, I'm sorry but that's me.

Jeff

 

http://www.cj-2a.com/oldsite/CJ2aTop/bows.html - http://www.cj-2a.com/oldsite/CJ2aTop/bows.html

I would imagine that "member made" bows would be a great hit for us all.

 

I liked the critique as much as Jeff said..... Those parts are true crap

 

There is so much interest in these parts someonee can and will do better. I hope it is a member here. There is more to it than one would think.  Expensive to get to the final correct finished part ready for delivery.

 

The jigged press idea for the dogleg has gotta be what W/O did. Then all the other features. Difficult  from what's been shown here.... but possible.  Someone with tube bending and fabrication knowledge. W/O used some oddball sizes to manufacture these bows. Really can't shortcut that if you want the correct repro. Hope some member decides to conquer these parts. (for cheap)

 

WFB

Seriously, I've said it before, and I'll say it again, I don't understand why these people who make repro parts spend such a lot of time and effort producing parts that don't fit, when they could just as well get it right.
Wyo I owe you a beer, I have no bows and would be looking at buying a set .......... so thank you. Also, I hope that Carl does you a good deal when you return them.
We do need a set of drawings - so that we can at least swear at ourselves when we get it wrong!
Thanks for the entertainment ..........

 

Good one Bob.....

 

Never bought any of their crap. But all I've read about them is bad. Some still are buying their tubs though. Read it right here! Go figure.

 

WFB

 

 

'Course I may call them Monday and inquire. That whole waiting (since November last year) thing.

 

I need the two sockets--we talked a lot about them a year or so ago, but the project seems to have died.  Anyone making them or know of a source?  Gary?

 

del clear

 

 

 

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200209998110&rd=1 - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200209998110&rd=1

 

 

 

Sorry for the delay--but I have "forgotten" to check this thread, and I have not been getting automatic notices about the replies herein.

 

I'm not sure what you are referring to, but my 4 vertical posts are off-set on the bottom end where they go into the body pockets, and then curved 90 degrees on the top where the roof cross-bow is inserted.  The "stops" in the vertical pieces are in the horozontal section that results from the 90 degree bend, and are simply smallish v-shaped punches that forces a little tab of metal into the tube so the cross-member will not jam into the curve and get stuck.  I see nothing that looks like a pin or a cut-out notch.

 

Let me know if this is not what you want to know.

 

Yeah, I have seen a couple of these and know about the compound curve in the base plate.  I was wondering if one could fabricate them with two separate pieces then weld them together.  Seems like a "C" shaped curve butt welded to a flat side tab cut to fit the curve could be saccomplished then the hinge hole part spot welded to that, making a socket for the door frame rod to sit in.  I agree that the "shaped" curve made out of one piece of steel puts a real crimp on the home-shop's capabiity to make that bend.  It is possible that a "welding" solution would require heavier gauge metal, but maybe that isn't all bad, since the originals were quite light and flimsy. 

 

My thinking is that if one were to make them all mount below the lip of the cutout and extending the door hinge rod to compensate accordingly would be the way to go.  I cant believe that the 46 model which stuck up into the pathway of your overshoes was EVER a good idea.

 

When I saw "doug's" prototype in Missouri last year--at least I think that is when/where I saw it--maybe it was just a picture I saw--it seemed he was quite close, even with that compound bend.  Too bad he hasn't followed thru.  Maybe WFB could drive Lefty up and see what's happening.  No where in Iowa is very from anywhere else.

I "sort" of tried to make the pieces one day and the curved plate was relatively easy.  One could easily fabricate a home-made die of hard wood, even, and make a bunch of the crescents in a vise, since that's not too much of a curve.  Cutting out the flat-plate would be realtively easy, even if sawed by hand on a sabre-saw or similar setup, and free handed.  If that crescent were made of a little heavier metal--say like a hinge rather than thinner sheet-metal, it would be pretty fast if a guy set up a jig for a good welder to stick that crescent butt  up against the plate and weld-away.  Grinding could be held to a minimum, or left to the purchaser to complete.  I'm obviously NOT the welder to do this, but I've seen some pretty good, neat welding that would look OK.  A good welder might be able to saturate the market in one day of welding if the component parts were all there.  After this step, securing the socket assy to the backing plate would seem really easy--either spot-weld them together or, tack weld them, or, even let the four bolts that hold the whole thing to the tub hold it together.  Maybe the purchaser could gorilla glue or super glue them together before tightening down.  Seems like they might be feasable in the 25-50 dollar range, and the schmuck doing them would at least see some spare change for his "trouble" even tho it would be primarily a labor of love and service to the greater gods of jeepdom than the an offering to the sleaze bags in the banking industry.  OTOH Maybe one could get a reverse mortgage with variable interest rates on the equity in the home to purchase the 40,000 worth of tooling to do this right.

 

Again, good to be back thinking CJ2A again.  Have any leads on good, servicable springs.  I want to replace all of mine--to straighten things up--and cant locate a source of good replacements.  I suppose I should cast the net wide and see what happens.

 

del

 

Good to see you back posting again. I've missed your input and insight to life and Jeeps. With spring on the way if you get out West be sure to drop in for a visit. Glad things are going well for you. Ones golden years should be enjoyable.

 

As to your comment about things being close here across the river. Remember Iowa is the largest state in the union....... Or am I wrong again?

 

WFB the geographer  

 

Well I think we have Rhode Island beat anyway.

 

I wonder if WFB remembers reading somewhere that methane gas has a deleterious effect on the memory, good judgement, and overall social and political correctability?

del clear

 

Yup it's kinda sorry but I must agree with you. The livestock confinement industry has ruined our state. I don't mind most of your list of methane effects.....but I've never worried too much about the "politicaly correct"  label.

 

I've proposed our new state motto to be:     "Iowa.........We don't stink so."

Unfortunately it hasn't caught on.

 

WFB

 

copy, and ditto that!!!!!