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Replacement rear brake drum

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Clay View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 Feb. 2024 at 9:00pm
I’m not sure how to press lug bolt into new drum and expect it to line up with the existing hub splines. Is it really necessary to spline these two together? Certainly won’t be re-hobbing the hub to lug bolts!  Can I drill the drum holes size for size to the lug spline OD?
Any thoughts much appreciated.  


Edited by Clay - 22 Feb. 2024 at 9:01pm
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Oldpappy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb. 2024 at 9:16pm
You did not mention what your Jeep is, but if it is a stock CJ2A it would have originally had the drums inboard of the hubs, with the assembly held together by swaged studs.

For good reasons, many get converted to later drums which are outboard of the hubs and do not require swaged studs.

Will need to know what you have before anyone can give good advice.   
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Clay View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2024 at 6:35am
Sorry, yes it is an original CJ2A 1946.  Lugs were swaged.  Not knowing that, I made the rookie mistake of trying to press out and bent my drum.  Have new drum now. Inboard designed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2024 at 12:06pm
I would be surprised if you did not also warp the hubs by driving the studs out. They need to be inspected and if warped they need to be replaced.

Sounds like you do not have, or did not consult, the Factory Service manual. 

You will need to pull the hubs and press in the new studs through the drums into the hubs. The "splines" on the hub are remnants of previous assembly, and there is no reason to attempt aligning those with the new studs. 

With the inboard drums the studs should be swaged to tie the assembly together. I am not sure whether this step is a 100% requirement, but these assemblies are the only place swaged studs make any sense to me. This requires a special tool.

I never replace rear brakes without also servicing the wheel bearings and seals. This makes it a much bigger job than simply changing out brake parts, but I don't like my brake shoes getting greased. 

Be sure you understand how to properly re-install the hubs on the tapered axles. If done wrong your hubs will split and become loose creating a potentially dangerous situation. 

This is a fairly simple procedure, but is very often done wrong based on the number of split hubs I have found on old Jeeps over the years.

NEVER insert the key into the slot of the axle ahead of the hub. If done this way the hub willl push the key ahead of it when tightened, the key will ramp up in the keyway and become a wedge that will split the very thin area of the hub.

HUB goes on FIRST, keyways are aligned, key is tapped in, then the washer and nut. When tightened to torque specs the hub and key will be tightened as a unit. 


Edited by Oldpappy - 23 Feb. 2024 at 12:09pm
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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