Re-Pop driver's seat frame |
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Hiker
Member Joined: 16 Dec. 2018 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 80 |
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Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 6:56pm |
My '47 came with a pair of bubba-fied seats, no tool box and stitched in floor panels that pieced together what was left of the original floor. The PO that did the floor was a pretty good welder, considering what he must have had to work with. The seats are another story.
I just received a pair of MD Juan seat frames and tool box, and besides a modest amount of "re-engineering" to the box, everything looks like it'll work. Except for the nut (?) that (I think) should have been captured inside one of the horozontal crossmembers of the driver's seat; the nut that would accept a bolt from the wheelhouse. If anyone has had to deal with this repo seat problem, I'd appreciate some advice on how to add the missing nut. The seat bar just crosses the location of the wheelhouse hole. Drill a hole in the tube and weld a nut on the outside? This would make the seat frame sit a bit "proud" of the support bracket, so if anyone has a better idea, I really would appreciate it.
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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Drill and tap the hole.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Cut a hexagon shaped hole in the seat frame tube, just big enough to slip in the nut. Stick a bolt in the nut and insert it in the hexagon hole. While holding the bolt, weld the edges of the nut to the seat frame tube.
EDIT: OR... Drill a hole all the way through the seat frame. Use a carriage bolt through the frame and a nut in the wheel well. Edited by athawk11 - 06 Dec. 2019 at 9:01pm |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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Use a rivet nut. Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Hiker
Member Joined: 16 Dec. 2018 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 80 |
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Great replies! Thanks for the ideas, especially the rivet nut; I had never heard of them but looked it up and got educated. If the nut would collapse around the curved surface inside the tube, that would work really nice. Drill and tap would be easy but not much "meat" for threads....cut a hole for a hexagon (or square) nut I like as well. Thanks guys. Great forum.
How was an original seat frame configured? Did it really have a nut on the inside of the tube?
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Squishymonster
Member Joined: 15 Oct. 2019 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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As far as tapping, you can buy rod steel from menards etc, drill a round hole, and weld it in. Then drill and tap that. It's like the bolt idea but will save you some metal file work.
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Squishymonster
Member Joined: 15 Oct. 2019 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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Pretty sure I've also seen seat frames where the bolt head is cut off and the threads welded to the seat frame. Then when mounting the seat, you stab the bolt into the wheel well first ,and nut the back of it. I haven't tried it myself though.
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Hiker
Member Joined: 16 Dec. 2018 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 80 |
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Squishy; Thanks for the suggestions, especially the piece of rod steel as an insert to be tapped. What about drilling a hole for tapping a'la your's and Terry's suggestions, then goobering a bunch of JB Weld inside the tube (with a bent nail or piece of wire....), then redrill and tap?
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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I don't think there would be much force in a direction that would pull the bolt out of the frame, maybe even a well nut would work.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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Hiker
Member Joined: 16 Dec. 2018 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 80 |
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Terry; Thanks for the suggestions, I think I'll try the "drill a hole and tap it" method first. Easy, and like you say, there isn't much force on the bolt. It should hold just fine. If not, I can add one of the other blind fasteners. Thanks a million.
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