Tools needed for valve work

So I took the jeep off roading in April with a group of flat fender guys in southern Missouri and had a blast but I could tell something just wasn't right as I was burring oil and and just I smelt like fumes at the end of the day. Got home and pulled the head, pistons and valves and found that the valve guides were lost as I could wiggle almost everyone of them. In the mean time I bought a new Gladiator and my Willys kind of fell off of the radar for a while. Long story short, I just ordered new rings, valves and guides and everything else needed but am having problems finding the correct tools.  Spring compressor, guide removal tool and guide install tool.  Anybody have any leads or would be willing to loan them to me, I would make it worth their while!  Also looking for any feed back or tricks on how to proceed with the work.

Edited by MooCow - 18 Sep. 2019 at 12:52am

The only special tools would be a valve spring compressor.

I found my thread about replacing the guides

Sent valve guide tools to ya! Are you making any progress?

You may not need a valve seat cutter I did not and was able to hand lap my valves and they sealed up good engine fired right up. Be sure you know which guide gets installed in proper hole the first time AMHIK

   Ridge-Reamers !   Omg, they are sometimes needed to remove pistons from worn engine cylinders if wishing to remove out the top of the block. In today's engines, I am just not seeing worn cylinders and ring grooves.
   Decades ago, an old school-bus mech told my father that you could not wear-out an IH engine, but it took forever for rings to seat too. Then on the flipside, it was seldom to find a Ford or Chevy block that didn't have ring grooves on tear-down. Technology has improved things for us and engines run for many thousands of miles before significant wear.

   An old engine machinist showed me how to quickly remove the valve guides with a hammer and punch. Cast iron guides are Brittle. You use punch to drive the guides down, give the bottom end of the guide a good smack with the hammer and punch, and they snap right off. Next, drive the remaining piece of guide on down through the block. Next use a roll-pin punch to drive the new guides into the block, and pay attention to the depth.
   For those of you who do not have access to a ream, just use valve lapping compound and work the valve back and forth by hand and lap the stems to your Satisfaction.   Remember: exhaust valves heat up more than intakes, so keep the exhaust clearances looser-than-tighter.
    
    I always relish memories of using ridge-reamers ( yes I have a petrified one in my drawer ), Piston-knurlers (don't have one yet), and hand-honing the cylinders for good cross-hatch pattern (hones don't work evenly in worn cylinder walls), so I always used Plumber's Cloth (emery-tape) in heavy grit to put scratches in the cylinder walls.
    For good entertainment, go to the website for Hastings Rings, and visit the Tech-Section about "Glaze-Breaking".
The link below will get you to Hasting's page:
   
https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs/fuel-wash

    You will be back on the road in no time. :)

    Len