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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 July 2019 at 9:22pm
The Keyed coil spot is a piece of 1.125" Redish/amber Phenolic rod I turned on my lathe to fill the hole. I thought it looked nice so I polished it up and made a collar and center bolt to lock it in place.

So its officially a pretty hole plugging thingy that serves no real purpose. The three black button heads around it serve the same purpose but aren't quite as pretty LOL.

I don't know why I didn't fill in the coil/ignition hole I had no trouble filling in the Governor control hole or even the original headlight switch hole to suit my purposes but I went this way instead. 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasendeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2019 at 10:11am
Whats in the keyed coil spot?
Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2019 at 9:25am
The left side will look a little bit less Factory as it will end up having 9 switches 8) Push/Pulls and one Rotary (windshield wiper and washer) they will of course have the matching knobs. But yes I am trying to keep "The Look"

Thanks for noticing.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2019 at 8:33am
Mark, your jeep's instrument panel looks 'factory'! Really nice work.
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie"
ACM #124334
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 July 2019 at 9:18pm
Oh I should explain a couple things.

The two lighted armored Green Switches in the middle of the Dash will control the E-Lockers once one of these switches are switched on then the Push Pull Switch on the Shifter will actually control the Locker.

The odd looking dash light is actually a repop Cigg Lighter with a built in Dash Light it also lights up on the end if the lighter is pushed in. Something I found on eBay I just had to have.

The push pull controls at the top of the Dash are from the left the Fresh Air intake damper, then the Warm Air intake control and then on the right side of the Dash Light/Cigg lighter the Choke.

I would have preferred the choke on the far left so its in the same area as the Ignition switch and Starter button. BUT the Fresh Air intake is a full 5" long pull to close so keeping it close to the column seamed like a good way to keep it out of harms way and it also allows the cable which will need to be .050 Piano wire to run very straight. The Choke is a Bicycle Brake cable so it bending a little is no problem.

Extra Gauges are on the left the Transmission Oil Temp Gauge (the sending unit is in the Tranny fill bung hole. I had to have some sort of gauge on the Tranny Transfer OD and since they all share oil and all can be filled via the Transfer case Bung hole (which has a 6 lb magnet in it) I figured this would be a way to monitor the Gears Boxes on long trips.

Then on the far right the Air Pressure Gauge for my ON BOARD AIR system. The system will run between 110 and 145 PSI so the 150 PSI gauge seamed perfect.

And then the lower 3 knobs are the Heater. 3spd fan switch/Defroster diverter/and Water temp control (I am using a 67ish Bronco type valve)

I might paint this panel Satin Black at some point.

You will notice all the knobs look very much like original Willys knobs I searched a long time to find them (then they were only $.69 each LOL) once I have other more important things done I am going to have each of them engraved with their function and will put White lacquer in the engraving.







Edited by Mark W. - 14 July 2019 at 9:21pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 July 2019 at 9:06pm
Herculiner a little 1 quart can from NAPA. I used a chip brush with shortened bristles to kind of dab it on so I could control the texture and get it kind of even. I'm happy with the way it came out. I need to dab a little Satin black paint on it in a couple places over spray found a way past my masking job on the second go around painting the tub.

And thanks I just hope putting the Tub on the chassis isn't to big of a PITA with the extra weight.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 July 2019 at 8:44pm
NICE,  NICE, NICE!!!!   Your getting closerSmile

What coating did you use for the  floor boards?  Wurf?(sp)  Zolatone, Rhino?
Dad and I used Zolatone a lot.

Jim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 July 2019 at 8:37pm
OK so this week sucked for time. But I got off about 2pm Sat with a good 58 hour week. I got to work right away and remade the under dash air manifold It came out pretty good. I was lazy and took no photos. Trust me it fits. LOL

Today I was going to get up at 4am and into the shop by 5am that turned into getting into the shop around 6:30am

I started stuffing gauges  into the dash. I have them all in I have the in gauge lighting connected up and have leads on all the gauges that need to connect to something electrically connected. The Ground wire for all the gauges is connected.

The heater is completely installed (well under dash side) I have the Push pull controls all working and the fan switch all wired up (save the actual power wire)

The under dash air system is all connected Gauge and Air Chuck connected Pressure switch etc all connected.

On the right side of the Column all that is left is the various grounds for things like the Volt meter, Fuel gauge, and the Heater I am going to make a common ground post to mount on the Dash brace. And the Big one the Ignition Switch and the Starter Button are next.



SO I got a feeling another 55+ hour week is ahead of me so I guess next Sunday I will see what more I can get done. Might be able to do a few things in the evenings but I seam to be pretty wiped out after dinner which getting home as late as I am lately is right after I get home.

Ah winter lay off is only about 20 weeks away LOL







Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 July 2019 at 7:42pm
Well as with all things automotive. Now that the Heater is in place as well as the 120V outlet box. The Air Manifold I made up isn't going to fit. SO its back to the drawing board or at least I'll have to reconfigure the way the connections are attached to the manifold. or something taking a break to stare and contemplate.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 July 2019 at 6:24pm
OK so todays goal was to get the heater in place and to figure out how to run the two control cables (water temp and defrost control) I managed to get it in place I have the cables hanging from it and just need to hook them up to the Push Pull controls. I opted to mount the heater control panel as far to the left on the bottom edge of the dash as looked good before I got to the Steering column notch. I set them back a little to make sure I have enough room for all them shift levers.

Here is a Shot of the Right side of the Dash.


The faceplate might be a tiny bit low on the left side. I have a little adjustment there might give it a bump.


I'm pretty happy with the way the face plate finishes off the Summit Racing Heater and the Deforster diverter box I made. A few things left to hook up but its looking good.

If you can look close you can see the double weather proof 120V oulet I have mounted on the far Right. This will connect to what ever inverter I decide to add to Chug down the road. between this and the Heater is where the under dash air manifold and chuck will mount. Thats one of the next things to go in.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2019 at 10:45pm
Dang it dang it. I went to see how the two lighted armored toggle switches  were going to fit right below my Speedo (using holes dad had drilled for a couple of switches he used. And it turns out they are approx. 3/16" to close to the Speedo bezel. So now I have to elongate  the holes. What a PITA. I tell you guys doing restorations are so lucky. Just put the right thing in the right hole and it's done (yes i know it's not that easy).

Let's see if i can do it with out chipping up a bunch of paint. The armored covers will only cover so much. More fun tomorrow!
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2019 at 6:46pm
WOW trying to stuff my heater up in place is a PITA. Not sure I will be able to connect the Water control valve to the cable with it in place. Gonna hate pulling it out to attach that cable if that is what ends up happening. And of course I can't seam to find the long screws that hold my Defroster damper in place. This thing better be worth it. LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2019 at 4:22pm
I got the Spray booth broke down and some stuff cleaned up. So I thought I would work on some stuff under the dash first order of business was to install a gutter to run wires from one side of the dash to the other it looks like this.



Its attached to the two outside hood hinge bolt holes using a pair of 2.5" sections of all thread and some lock nuts. I'll have to have two nuts on the inside of engine compartment but thats better then more holes in the firewall. I think it will work out really nice for what I want to do.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2019 at 11:06pm
OK I have a Buffed Jeep. I might do a little more touch up once things are together. But for now its all good.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2019 at 3:00pm
I was hoping to have a nice fat 4 day weekend but one of the supervisors decided he wanted to gravel a forest service road on Friday so Since I am the guy with the most experience doing that stuff I got the call So up at 4 am Friday so I can be up in the mountains bright eyed and bushy tailed to start what will most likely end up a 10+ hour job.

Anyway I was hoping to get into the shop early today to help make up for the lost day. But I was to worn out after 32 hours of work in the last 3 days to get my ass out of bed early.

SO its Noon on the 4th I currently have the Hood, Grill, and Vent door final buffed. Only thing left to do this afternoon is the Windshield frame. Should be interesting with all the grooves (I did not sand down in the grooves I'm not crazy) The Grill was a pretty easy job due mostly to its small surface area.

Saturday (if I don't end up getting screwed into working) I plan on rearranging a good portion of the Spray booth as well as pulling down some of the Plastic and the Dividers I put up to separate it from the main shop area. This will allow me to push the Tub towards the shop and give me more ceiling height and allow me to more easily rotate the TUB until upside down I want to work on the Electrical Box in the back some more I need to figure out how to get wires for Backup Lights and if I can figure out how to wire one up a Third Brake light (If I connect it to either Brake/Turn wire the thing will come on any time a turn signal is on) most likely a separate wire from the brake light switch. Glad I put a extra wire in the cable from the dash.

Then I am going to start the Dash stuffing. First in is a Gutter to carry wires from one side of the dash to the other. Going to use a piece of 1.5" PVC pipe with sections cut out on one side that hangs from the Hood Hinge Bolts. That way I can come from the Gutter to what ever switch or Gauge I need to with a nice short direct wire. I'll do Photos of course.

Heater, Defroster Duct, Heater Controls, 120V Outlet, Air Manifold, Parking Brake, MSD-6A spark box wiring, Gauges, Speedo, Push Pull controls for Choke and Air Intake controls, Ignition and Starter Button, then the wad of Switched on the left side. A lot of stuff goes in that small area I want at least 90% of it in there while I can rotate the Tub on the Rotisserie (wondering if I can turn the tub upside down and put a stool under it to sit on while working on the underside of the dash!)

And even though I lost at least Friday out of my 4 day weekend I still have to get close to a days work done on the Front porch project to keep the Mrs happy.

Photos to come. 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2019 at 8:23am
My paint guy says when you have a show car (which is what you have, whether you like it or not. That thing is stunning.) you don't need to use wax. He just uses a fine glaze. He did say that if I'm going to drive it in nasty weather or get it dirty, then wax it. I had my Nova painted over the winter and it is still out-gassing. If the garage is closed up over night and I walk out there I can still smell that new paint smell. If you are going to wax it, I'd wait 6 months. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2019 at 7:42pm
Holy smokes 62 hours this week with an additional hour to two hours each day for crummy time (where I ride in a pickup to where my Dump truck is parked)

SO nothing but dreaming got done this week until I got in the shop at 6am this morning (only day off)

it took all of today to get the Hood through the first stage of Buffing. Had a few places after some buffing I went back to 2000 grit wet dry to clean up deeper scratches. All in all it came out pretty good. Still have the one small sand through along the bottom edge a little back from where the Left hood latch will be. I have come up with a hair brain idea of using a paint pen or permanent felt marker to touch up these tiny boo boo's  Might not last long but for the Year I take Chug to car shows it will make it harder to see them. And it won't bulk up the paint surface. Like trying to lay more paint on would.

So hoping I get a 4 day weekend over the Fourth. If so I will have all the buffing done. Meguiars tech told me what Waxes to chose from but strongly suggested not doing any Waxing until the paint is 90 days old.

So While I will have to work on the front porch some over the Weekend (I got the Ceiling Painted so she was very happy last Sunday).

But I should be able to start stuffing things under and into the Dash over the long weekend. Going to see how many hours I can cram in on Chug. I figure work from 5-6am until late dinner at 6:30-7 with one full day on the Porch. I should be able to make a lot of progress.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 June 2019 at 2:52pm
ITS BLUE!


SO Tub and Front Fenders are Buffed




Ok so when I took one of the fenders outside to get a look at the color and to see what the swirl marks and such looked like in the sunlight I had to get a little artistic with the reflections in the paint.

I had a guy I have known for 40+ years who when I met him he was the counter guy at NAPA selling me the engine parts for the 67 Chevelle I built as a 20 year old kid. He's been in the local car club and around Hot Rods Street Rods Classics and Customs for all that time. (when I met him he was finishing up a 37 Chevy Coupe)

And he said I was being way to picky on the paint and to not worry about it since I wasn't building a car show car. He thought it looked pretty good.

then he asked if I could drag my Chassis to a car show they are having in the Park here in Town first weekend in Aug. I doubt that will happen. But it was nice to be asked.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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