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Transfer case mount.

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65Paul View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65Paul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Transfer case mount.
    Posted: 29 Sep. 2020 at 8:43am
Finishing making new cross member today.
What size hole is in the cross member where the donut sits?
Does the bolt actually clamp the t'case to the cross member through the mount?
How much should the donut be compressed, what should the gap be between foot on case and cross member?
Any help much appreciated.
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2020 at 1:09pm
The crossmember hole should be 1.1” diameter which is just large enough to fit the index on the lower snubber.
The gap between TC and crossmember should be right near 1.2” which is the thickness of the upper snubber. 
Torque down the snubber bolt just enough to eliminate any gaps and slightly compress the snubbers (insulators).
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65Paul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2020 at 8:42pm
Thanks for that Oldtime.
Great help.
I've ended up with 2 3/8 drop on the cross member. Does that sound about right?
The front edge of the gearbox mount sits slightly high, probably due to position I've set the 225 at.
I've used 5/32 steel. Probably a bit on the heavy side, but better than too thin!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2020 at 11:20pm
I measure standard drop at 2-1/4”.
Your fabbing this to fit Dauntless into a flatty ?
I must agree your far better off to custom build a new rear engine support (crossmember) whenever fitting a different engine or transmission.
With Dauntless installation the engine should move back to the right and so should the rear engine support.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65Paul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2020 at 12:09am
I'm not far off on the drop then!
Yes fitting Dauntless. I've got engine 5/8 left of centre. 1 1/2 I believe is standard for 134.
I think it may be forward about 1/2" judging by lever positions. As close to bulkhead as I can go.
See pic in Jeep project post.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2020 at 1:13am
I install Dauntless into flatty using slightly lowered factory frame brackets.
I lower the factory brackets because ECJ-5 frames have less rise in that area.
I position the engine exactly 3/4” L from centerline.
I prefer to go with T15 or T18 behind the more powerful Dauntless and that also allows the engine to clear the flat fender firewall. 
And yes a custom made rear engine support is mandatory so the engine does not set cattywampus in the frame.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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