1946 CJ2a #45682 |
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44bz
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2018 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Posted: 05 Mar. 2018 at 2:30am |
Hi all. This is my first post about my first flattie. I'm two weeks on this project and believe me, it's a project. I knew what I was getting into and I'm excited to have I, but this is going to be a looooong restoration.
I bought the Jeep for $500 with a title from a guy who purchased it simply to take family photos in front of. He had it for 6 months and knew very little history on it. He said the previous owner used it as a hunting rig. It hasn't been registered since 1976 so it's likely been sitting for quite a while. Someone swapped in a Buick 225, bolted to the original trans and t-case (I believe). The motor mounts are homemade and likely need to be replaced. I'm not sure the motor is worth putting any money into. It looks pretty clean on the inside and it's got oil in it. I don't think any water has gotten inside so it may run with some work, but it's pretty rusty on the outside. The body is fairly hammered. The front floors at completely rusted out and bed area is mostly solid, but looks like somebody dropped boulders in it (lots of dents). The tailgate is pretty straight. The fenders are mostly solid, but also need some work. There's no brake system, no steering, and no fuel system. I do have the original steering gear and shaft though. The front frame on both sides has been welded on extensively. I think the original tube cross member was cut off and a new one put in about 4 inches forward, but its only attached with some booger welds on one side. So far I've ordered new front floor pans and the floor supports. I have a new gas tank and sender on the way. My plan is to upgrade the steering and brake system with more modern parts. I need to install a new wiring harness. It basically needs everything, but I'm looking forward to working on it. I'll try to get some photos uploaded and I'm going to have lots of questions along the way.
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4785 |
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Welcome!, looking forward to some pics. Sounds like you did alright at that price point. Id rather have a clean title and some work ahead than the other way round
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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44bz
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2018 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Here it is when I picked it up. And in the driveway next to my 68 J2000.
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Gil
Member Joined: 29 July 2016 Location: N.B.Canada. Status: Offline Points: 975 |
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Welcome aboard,have fun building your jeep .Nice looking jeeps.
Gil
Edited by Gil - 05 Mar. 2018 at 3:14am |
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1946 cj2a 59108
1998 Jeep Cherokee 2 doors 2016 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk |
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48walker
Member Joined: 17 Mar. 2017 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 366 |
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Welcome, looks like a great place to start
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mkoloc
Member Joined: 29 Oct. 2014 Location: OH Status: Offline Points: 323 |
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Welcome, solid looking project. lots of great folks here on the site and plenty of help when needed. Just keep the pics coming as we live vicariously thru everyone's project's
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LTC Mark Koloc (USA-RET)
MVPA#31144 OEF Afghan 03-04 OEF Africa 05-07 OEF KFOR 08-09 WTB 09-11 1942 Ford GPW 43 M16A2 Half-Track w/44 M10 Trlr 1943 M3 Sct Car 1947 CJ2A |
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Welcome to the cj2apage Zack. Glad you joined here. I'm a member of FSJNetwork as well. There seems top be a trend with people in Oregon having a FSJ and a flat fender.
--> http://cj-2a.com/parts_list/CJ2A_data.php |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391 |
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44BZ,
Welcome! Looks like a good project. Stev
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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sparky13
Member Joined: 06 Feb. 2013 Location: Lancaster Pa Status: Offline Points: 320 |
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44bz,
Let's see some more pictures of the 68 J2000. How about some information on it too. That thing looks awesome.
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Mark
1946 CJ2A |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Awesome jeeps!
Yes we definitely need more pics of both
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Couldn't agree more! |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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44bz
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2018 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Thanks for the warm welcome! I've had the Jtruck since 2009 I think - hard to believe it's been that long. It has the AMC 327/T18/D20 combo and original Dana 44 axles. Had to tow it home also. I spent several years and lots of money bringing it back, but did all the work myself. I love it. I added power breaks, upgraded the front axle to discs, added power steering. It has a Flaming River column and Borgeson steering shaft. 35x12.50 Goodyear MTRs. The motor has a 4bbl intake, Holley 600cfm, dual exhaust, and a Pertronix kit. The Warn bumper came off a Blazer and I built mounts for it. It's been a fun project. Part of the motivation to buy the CJ was so that I'd quit tinkering with the J and just enjoy it
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44bz
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2018 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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So far I've removed the fenders, hood, and grill from the CJ to clean up some rust scale and I wanted to get a better look at the motor and the mounts.
The headers look homemade and were poorly constructed. The driver side comes out far enough the fender couldn't even bolt to the body. I think the radiator is original and appears to be in good shape, but I'll probably replace it with an aluminum unit. The crossmember just in front of the radiator was added at some point and isn't welded in completely. Here's the driver side and the passenger side is just as bad. Most of the screws and bolts are so rusted they either break or have to be drilled out. I've been stripping rust scale and peeling paint, then everything gets a coat of primer. My goal is to clean it up, fix the rust, make some drivability improvements, and get it on the road. No show winner here, but I think it'll be a fun little Jeep someday.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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You don't need to remove the front crossmember to fit in a Buick V-6. Gotta wonder why Bubba did it. If you're gonna re-power a 2A, you can't go wrong with a Buick V-6.
The J-truck looks really nice, too. Great work! |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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44bz
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2018 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Interesting for sure. They welded big tabs onto the "new" cross member for the radiator to mount to. The fan has a 3-4" spacer behind it to push it closer to the radiator. The front frame horns look pretty ugly to me. They're solid, but there's a bunch booger weld all over it and the original cross member was cut off at the frame edge so the rest is still inside the frame. I'm kinda thinking it might be better to just cut off the frame ends and replace it all with new. Thanks for the compliments on the Jtruck!
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44bz
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2018 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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i ordered a new fuel tank and sending unit but neither came with hardware. Can anyone tell me what screws I need for the sending unit?
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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The sending unit should take #8-32 screws, maybe 1/2" long. New repro tank? No telling what it takes...
Do you suppose that Bubba moved the front crossmember because he couldn't figure out how to remove/replace the 3-4" long fan spacer? Wouldn't that be the height of Bubba-ism, to cut the frame to avoid installing a shorter fan spacer? |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Just fyi, mine has a new fuel tank and I put in a brass float sending unit from Walck's. Be sure to ground that sending unit. I ran a wire from one of the sending unit mounting screws to a nearby bolt in the body. My gauge works perfectly now.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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