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1947...ish CJ2A

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rmneal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmneal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2016 at 11:28pm
Originally posted by RICKG RICKG wrote:

Rob, the Allstate hubs are interesting. I have a set as well but the knob is flush with the outer face, your's seem to protrude beyond the face. Makes me want to research what styles were offered.
Rick.

I'd love to see a pic of your Allstates.  I don't recall seeing any other styles when I researched mine.  Not that I have a lot of experience with locking hubs, but I do like 'em.  They lock in and out really smooth!  Hope you share any info you find on them.
Rob
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rmneal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmneal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2016 at 12:25am
Just thought I'd update my thread a bit.  I finally broke down and bought me trailer.  I just couldn't stand the thought of leaving my baby out at the ranch.  I found a nice dual axle, 10 footer.  The 2a fits on it like a glove!  Best part is, I can fit them both in my garage and still have enough room to USE my garage to work in.  



I've been toying with the idea of bending some tube and fabricating a rear seat.  I'm pretty tight on some things and just can't justify the price of buying a new one (says the guy who dropped way too much on a trailer).  Well, I think the jeep gods must have had mercy on me.  As I was out cleaning up the mess our hunters left us, I found an old seat under a tree that they had discarded from a fallen down blind.  It would fit perfectly in the back, but it was only a single seat.  Figuring this one would be better than the 2x4 bench I currently had, I picked it up and hauled it back to the old camp site.  As I loaded up more junk to haul off, I uncovered the MATCHING seat!  The backs are a little tall, but width wise they are perfect!  All I need to do it put in some mounting brackets, foam padding and covers.  Anyone have a guess as to what they might have come out of?  I don't have a clue.


My final acquisition was yesterday.  I scored an older (1983) Warn 8274 off Craigslist for $300.  I have not checked the motor yet, but it has two new(er) looking solenoids on it.  The gears have a little surface rust on them, but nothing a little TLC and lubrication won't correct.  I had just about resigned myself to the fact I was going to have to put a shiny new winch on the front of this well patina'd beauty and mess up my vintage look...


I finally fixed the erratically running engine problem I had.  Sometimes it would run good, sometimes ok, and sometimes horribly...all in one outting.  I disassembled the Solex (again) and bathed it in B-12. No change.  I put on an electronic ignition.  No change.  I had already bought and installed a fuel pressure regulator, so I knew that was not it.  I made sure the vacuum plugs were sealed and tightened...nothing.  On a whim, I sprayed a little starter fluid around the intake while it was running and found my problem.  It was a vacuum leak.  One new intake/exhaust gasket later, it is a whole new jeep!  It fires right up and purrs like a kitten.  If it wasn't for all the rattles in the sheet metal, I could almost have a conversation with my passenger.  I definitely want to thank everyone on this forum for the tips they have added as they've posted their progress.  The info on this site is invaluable!
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Flatfender Ben View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2016 at 10:52pm
Seats look to be Willys wagon.
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rmneal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmneal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2017 at 2:22am
Probably ought to update this thread more than once every six months or so!  Got the Warn winch running and mounted.  Missed my marks just a little and wound up with it a bit lower than I intended, but I don't do any crazy rock crawling, so I doubt it'll be an issue til I get it "re-fabbed".  I moved the solenoids under the hood, and ran an "On/Off" switch to a bracket I fabbed and fit it in the recess just above where the steering column disappears under the dash, and "Fwd/Off/Rev" switch to the dash itself.  It is all pretty clean and I designed everything to mount (mostly) in pre-existing holes....of which, there are certainly plenty to choose from!  Seems to work pretty well.  Got me all the way up on the trailer when the jeep inexplicably died a while back.





I have had a few gremlins show up.  The most embarrassing one left me and the youngest on the side of the trail in a local OHV park, a couple of times.  The durned thing would just die on me at random.  A while later, it would fire up again and run like a champ.  I was certain it had nothing to do with the fuel system, since I had cleaned or replaced everything from tank to intake.  To be clear, I didn't really clean the tank in as much as I shined a light in it and it appeared shiny clean.  Turned out it had a bit of something in it.  I removed the fuel filter and, after it had dried out, cut it open to find it was completely blocked with a fine dirt.  I removed the fuel tank a washed the hell out of it, replaced the fuel filter with a clear one and have not had a problem since.  Thank goodness I don't try to make a living as a mechanic!  


I am currently working on putting in a little shade. If you haven't noticed yet, I am cheap. I don't have any bows for the top and figured I'd see about making some. It is a Bubba job, but it seems to be coming together pretty well. Electrical conduit is the tubing of choice...1/2" and 3/4". I machined down a steel spacer and plug welded it in one end so the whole thing can be easily assembled/disassembled I may have $15 in it as of now. I did buy about 2 yards of black Sunbrella. I don't remember the price, but I do remember being floored at how much they were asking for it. I still have a bit of clean up on the frame, but I'm about ready to give the fabric to my sweet neighbor to sew up for me.







That's about all I have for now. Here's a few pics of me and the kids out for a bit of fun!


My daughter and I "stretching those 70 year old legs".


Letting my son, with his Golden 'Fro, practice his driving skills.


Seventy years of evolution. 1947 CJ2a and a 2017 JK.




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Gil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2017 at 7:56am
Nice pictures,good job on your roof look really good.Cool to see kids enjoying those old Jeep. 

Giles  Thumbs Up
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rmneal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmneal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov. 2018 at 11:47pm
Figure it's time for another update.  Last May, I decided it was time to try to replace replace the slipping clutch.  So, I cleaned out a place in the garage, busted out my tools, and went to work.  Next thing I remember, I had a completely disassembled engine sitting in the back of my truck, ready for the machine shop.  It smoked ever since I bought it, so I figured since I'm already in...I might as well go all the way.  Took it to the machinist and had it magnafluxed.  Block was good, but the head was cracked.  Ron Fitzpatrick hooked me up with one that looked to be in mint condition.  He also hooked me up with .30 over pistons,rings, valves, valve guides, and miscellaneous other essentials for an engine rebuild.  Finally got the engine, crank, and flywheel back from the machinist at the end of August and began the arduous task of learning how to rebuild an engine.  I will say, I would starve if I became a "professional" engine builder.  I must have disassembled and reassembled the thing a half dozen times.  I kept second guessing myself and would pull it apart to be certain I had done it right.  Sometimes, I had. LOL 

Long story short, I finally got her all back together and fired her up Thanksgiving eve.  Took it out to our place in central Texas and started the break-in.  It is amazing how much of a difference a freshly rebuilt engine and a new clutch makes.  That little engine is so strong, it broke the rear driver axle!  No kidding!  I tooled around the ranch for 3 days, nice and easy, and then Sunday afternoon, I put it in gear, eased off the clutch and "thonk" - sheared in half.  I'll get another one ordered here in a few days after I look and see if there is anything else I need while I'm in the rear end.  Anyone know if that is common?  I have not been hard on this thing at all.  Granted, who knows what this thing went through before I got it.  Maybe it was already on its way out.  I kinda wish I had pulled both rear axles and inspected them when I bought it.  Oh well, looks like I'll have a new rear end soon to go with the new engine!  Anyway, here's a few pics.

Engine Removal

Head finally removed.  Looks a little used.

Couldn't believe I didn't break one of the studs.  PB Blaster, time, and heat did the trick.

Little scored and out of round.  This one was the worst.

Step 1 of valve guide removal.  Grade 8 fine thread 3/8" hex bolt.  Broke them all loose relatively easily.

Step 2 of valve guide removal.  Pretty self explanatory...

Back from the machine shop.  So shiny!!

Obligatory Plastiguage shot.  Shoulda bought stock in that company...

Back she goes.

That shiny new head kinda messes up my well patinaed engine bay, but I think I'll happily suffer through.


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smfulle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2018 at 10:06am
Hey Rob,
Nice work on the engine. 
I am kind of hard on my jeep, but I didn't break the rear axle on the trail. In fact I'm not sure when I broke it. Maybe when I was loading it on the trailer.

Anyway, how much damage a broken axle does can depend on where along it's length that it broke. If it broke in the middle, it probably didn't do much damage. but that is the least likely place for it to break. The weak spots are at the splines, right where it comes out of the side gears in the differential, or right where it it goes into the flange on the outer end. 
Mine broke at the differential end and cracked the differential carrier so I had to find a new carrier, which are no where to be found, so I had to get an entire replacement axle assembly. Luckily I found one nearby for pretty reasonable.

Once you get it opened up and find if the axle explosion did any other damage or not, be sure and check all the bearings. 70 years can do a lot of wear on bearings and who knows what other catastrophes they have experienced. Changing the bearings in the differential is a bit of pain, but if you end up doing it, be sure and keep track of where all the shims were so you don't have to resetup your diff. 
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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rmneal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmneal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2018 at 9:29pm
Stan, I'll have to admit, I was kinda hoping you and/or Jpet might pipe in on this.  I've watched just about every one of y'all treks and figured if there were axle issues, y'all would have had them.  I pulled the axle last night and was surprised it broke just about dead center.  The splines look good, but I have not yet pulled the diff cover to confirm everything is ok in there.  I have a spare front and rear axle that I had planned on completely rebuilding, but they are a 10 hour round trip away - and still attached to a rotten frame.  I had kinda hoped to just buy a replacement axle and bearings, pop it in and enjoy the fruits of my labor while I rebuilt the spares.  Now, I'm kinda wondering if I ought to go ahead and just rebuild this one.  I'm just not crazy about being without my toy for another couple weeks.  Ha!  Below are a couple of pics of the "damage".

Wheel side.

Lucky I had a strong magnet handy.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2018 at 11:59pm
I’m probably not the guy to give advice about this, but I’m pretty much the patch it together and get back on the trail guy. I like driving my rig lots more than working on it. Especially if you have another axle that you plan on doing a full redo on, I would get the pieces to get it rolling again and get to driving.

That’s just me though. Lots of guys will tell you “fix it right and fix it once.”
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2018 at 12:01am
Forgot to say that you break looks like the one that would do the least peripheral damage. 
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2018 at 7:04am
Nice job on your engine rebuild.

Giles
1946 cj2a 59108
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2018 at 10:34pm
That axle shaft started to break a while ago and finally just gave up the ghost.  An intact one is much tougher than you might think. 
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmneal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2018 at 11:38pm
Well, I broke down and ordered a replacement axle for the driver side as well as a bearing, cup, shims, and seal.  I figured $150 was a small price to pay to get back on the road.  I love working on them, but I hate not being able to jump in it on a whim and go "wheeling".  As soon as I get this one good and reliable, I'll start in on my "parts jeep" and have the best of both worlds...one to work on and one to play on.

Here's my parts jeep.  Floor pans are almost non existent, the firewall has been cut at some point in the past to fit a bigger engine, everything on the frame in front of the footwell is trashed, the hood has a hole cut in it to clear an air filter, and who knows what is going on with the windshield.  There is no engine or transmission, but I have worked out a deal with a co-worker for his '64 Ford 223 with a 4 speed T98 that should make it an off roading fool.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmneal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2018 at 11:44pm
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

That axle shaft started to break a while ago and finally just gave up the ghost.  An intact one is much tougher than you might think. 

I'll have to agree.  Again, I wish I'd have pulled the axle when I first bought it just to know whether or not it appeared ready to shear.  It broke in such an odd place.  Watching some of the videos of Grandpa's Jeep (you know I had call you out, there Stan) in Moab and the Rubicon proves to me those axles are tuff as heck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2018 at 1:16pm
The axles will take a lot of abuse, up to a certain point. What that point is can be a mystery. 
I did an experiment a while back with dual wheels. I had this idea that 2 tires on each corner would make m3 stick to rocks like spider man.
First time on the rocks I broke a front drive axle and a tie rod. Experiment over. 
I now believe that anything over the stock tire size and weightwill over stress the axles. Big power and torque could be a problem as well, especially when combined with big clown tires, as most do when they get more power.
Disclaimer; everything I know about this I have learned from my experiences with Grampa’s Jeep, and by trying to filter through all the other geniuses Smile that post stuff on the always reliable inter web machine.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2018 at 5:32pm
I read it on the internet, so it must be true!  Big smile
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmneal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2018 at 4:20pm
Got my new axle in and pressed the new bearing on, new seal, etc.  I inserted the axle, engaged the splines and slid everything in as far as it would go.  When I inserted the cup, it would only go in so far as to leave between 3/16 and 1/4 inch of it sticking out beyond the flange.  On the passenger side, I pulled the hub to see what it looked like and it is sticking out about 1/8".  

Drivers side.

Passenger side.

Am I correct to assume I would leave the passenger side shim set as is and shim the new, drivers side with enough shims to take up all that space? 

Here is exactly what came off.

Would I just add to the existing shims the correct amount of new shims (number to be decided) like this to adjust for the new axle?


I swear, that cup was flush with the flange when I took it apart, but I don't have pics to confirm.  Do axles vary in length that much?  This one came from Kaiser Willys and is brand new.  Something just doesn't seem right about that.  What am i missing? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2018 at 7:26pm
If put together properly, the cup will be flush with the shims when you have the allowable amount of axle shaft end play (.004"-.008", if I remember right).  I believe I got instructions on installing the axle from the much-missed Vernco site. 
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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