1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" |
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1692 |
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Is there a recommendation for waiting before driving or anything I should know about? After a warm up idle it's doing well, coolant level and oil pressure are good. Idle sounds nice and clean like it had before.
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1692 |
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So the excitement was eating at me and I took it for a drive around the figurative block.
It might be me, but even that slight bump in compression seemed to give it a little bit of "spunk" I didn't run it hard or long, just an easy, maybe mile long loop but I'm happy with how the new head seems to up the performance
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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flattiesrule
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 02 June 2010 Location: Payson, Az. Status: Offline Points: 296 |
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Instead of painters tape, a little trick I use to label my plug wires is clothes pins labeled 1 thru 4.
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'47 cj2a
'76 cj7 '01 cherokee sport |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1403 |
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Nice job! There's some debate, but many folks recommend re-torquing the L134 head after the first run up to operating temp. Using the numbered sequence chart, loosen one at a time and torque it back to spec in one pull before moving on to the next. Good luck!
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1692 |
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I've heard of checking the torque by sequence after a couple hundred miles but I haven't heard loosening and then retighting
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1692 |
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M38 seat finally arrived. Excited to get the mounting hardware. I do need to figure out what kinda fabric my front seats are. I had found something online that matched exactly but when the sample came in, it wasn't even close. Mine are like a shade of OD khaki
Its definitely got a coating on it cause it repels water and it's a heavy cloth type. Edited by General Eisenhower - 29 Oct. 2022 at 4:30pm |
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1403 |
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How can torque be checked if the fastener isn't loose to begin with? Pretty sure torque wrenches only measure things that are moving. |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1692 |
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My torque wrench is one of the older ones, with the long needle that stays true when the wrench bends. I would have though it would point at 70 ftpds even if the nut has moved if the nut was tight enough. Perhaps I'm wrong
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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A torque wrench measures how much twisting pressure you are putting on the bolt or nut. If you put 65 ft.lbs on it and it doesnt move, it’s good. If it moves, you’ll put it up to 65 or whatever you’re after. Ive been doing this a long time and never heard of loosening head (or any other) bolts or nuts before re-torquing.
BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4815 |
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I have never heard of loosening bolts to check torque either, but I have only been working on cars for 54 years or so, and have no professional training. The object is to make sure the head bolts are torqued to spec after being run, because they sometimes loosen up after the gasket has compressed under heat.
If they loosened a little after having been run pulling the torque wrench to 65lbs will turn the bolt until it is tightened to 65lbs, if they didn't loosen they won't move. I have the same kind of torque wrench Paul describes, have two of them in fact. One was my dad's and the other one was part of my first set of tools which he bought for me when I started getting interested in working on cars at 12 years old. Both are "Craftsman" (Sears) and they work just fine. I once bought one of those clicker type and first time I used it I broke a head bolt on a small block Ford engine with it because it wasn't accurate. I bet that thing is still in the woods where I flung it.
Edited by Oldpappy - 29 Oct. 2022 at 8:49pm |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1403 |
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I have both the beam and "clicker" types, both older Craftsman's (3/8-drive), good tools, made in the USA. The beam type is good when the scale can be seen straight on (not always possible). The clicker type (3/8 or 1/2 inch drive) is my preferred tool. Rather than send them out to a calibration lab, I use a fitting I made in a vise to check them against each other at different points over their range. They've always read the same. I'd get worried if they didn't. When I’m really motivated, I've used barbell weights to see if they read accurately. And here’s some good information: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2005/07/perfect-engine-sealing-starts-with-proper-head-bolt-use/ Good luck! Edited by Ron D - 29 Oct. 2022 at 10:03pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4815 |
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A pretty good article, but to avoid any confusion the TTY bolts mentioned are something that came along long after these Jeep engines were designed and doesn't really apply. I do make a practice of using new head studs or bolts when I build an engine as I have no way to know how many times the old ones have been used, and they do get stretched each time they are torqued. Don't remember what brand that clicker type wrench I had was, but it wasn't accurate, or at least it was always tighter than the beam wrench I prefer, as I did some comparisons.
As to accuracy, I think consistency is more important. If all the bolts are torqued to the same tightness, with the same tool then all is good, even if a few pounds off one way or the other. |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1692 |
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I put about 300 miles on it yesterday. I ran it up and down the state. Checking today, the head nuts are holding true at 70 ft pds.
I think I'll do another coolant flush and try to get some more of that gunk out that I had found. It seems trapped in the block and the peacock drain I don't thing is fast enough to take all the sediment with it. Something else I'd like to address is the clutch/brake pedal shaft. It's definitely starting to wear. I don't have a problem with it yet, however I dont want to wait until I do... Edited by General Eisenhower - 07 Nov. 2022 at 3:23pm |
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1403 |
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Sorry, can't resist. I'll tell him. A peacock drain is nature's way on a large and colorful exotic bird to empty its bladder. A petcock is man's invention for engine blocks and radiators to let coolant out. Glad to hear the shake-down road trip was successful! Edited by Ron D - 07 Nov. 2022 at 9:51pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1692 |
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I noticed today after it had sat and cooled overnight, there was a larger than normal puddle of oil under my transmission area.
Some is expected but it was a supriseing amount. It might have just been some oil depositing on the skid plate just right, and then when I finally parked on a level surface it had a chance to run off. I'll definitely be keeping an eye on it, might have to pull the transmission in the near future but I'd like to wait until after Christmas. However that'll allow me to rebuild the transmission and seal it up right, as well as replace my clutch pack
Edited by General Eisenhower - 07 Nov. 2022 at 10:00pm |
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1403 |
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Edited by Ron D - 07 Nov. 2022 at 10:12pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1692 |
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It's gear oil
By engine is leaking slightly at the front, but that oil is black as pitch right now as I haven't changed it in 6 months Edited by General Eisenhower - 07 Nov. 2022 at 10:13pm |
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1692 |
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I do want to replace the transmission or at least rebuild it, so I know new and quality parts are in it, it is noisy in 3rd especially when fluid starts getting low and it's been leaking since I got it.
However I do not have a transmission jack nor have I ever done it before so in my nature I'm hesitant about it Edit, my goal is to rebuild the transmission and transfer case I currently have sitting, and maybe I should prioritize that plan
Edited by General Eisenhower - 08 Nov. 2022 at 12:07am |
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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