1948 CJ2A

Preliminary clean with Kerosene oil

As you can see - the seal is well and truly gone. Will share a story later in the post about how much harassment this caused us due to an inexplicable mistake

Note the location of the ring around the bearings 

Since the placement of the ring was wrong - it kept touching against the bolts and destroyed the threads. Someone at some point in time did not care when making this repair 

The rings placed in the right manner so that they won't touch against the bolts - Did this small variation in the flange to accommodate the bolts come from factory or is a bubba / after market job? My father reckons it is factory original 

Plonked on a chair and tied for safety reasons  - draining the oil 

The gears look very nice and clean - no marks really. That explains why they always shifted smoothly

The Cover cleaned nicely 

Prepped up and clean

Found these gaskets locally. We punched the holes ourselves

The drain bolt has some weak threads. We have to figure out what to do with it 

Guys any idea about these numbers - on the gear and on the cast externally ?

Thank you for confirming ! 

Someone went to the effort of painting the bell housing all green like the rest of the Jeep eliminating all traces of the black paint

Handbrake to be fitted later 

Like the engine the T90 shows signs of being exposed to water for a prolonged period of time. There is some rust and the teeth are not 100% but not that bad either. The shim that has been fitted has eliminated all "play" 

Note the weld repair here. We hope this will last - Mechanic was satisfied so who am i to question !! 

Voila - T90 - ready and rearing to go 

Sharing some more photos of the progress 

So this was the first challenge. Doc Chauhan who is also on this forum helped me secure the hand brake parts. However we discovered this problem and we had no replacement 

This was problem # 2 - The old castle nut - the threads were gone 

This pin was old , threads were gone and it moved and rattled when inserted 

We fabricated a new castle nut with new threads

Gas Welding to fix the broken bits - this was still rough a this moment and the lack of a smooth surface was a risk - though it was not as bad as the photos suggest

The pin was the hardest bit. We realized the hole where it would go was slightly larger than normal with use and wear and tear. So we found an oversized plain bolt , created the right threads , machined it and shaped it , removed the bolt head and shaped it like an original pin at the top and added the castle nut so that it was a snug fit in the over sized bore. 

I think it came out really well - What say guys? 

The gas weld sanded by hand came out nice - My father is confident it won't break. 

The fit - nice and snug 

Moving on

Thank You sir. We got everything together again but there was a hitch. We think it is the fuel pump. Let's see what happens

Not Bubba for sure !! :-) 

So we could not figure out that why the engine was not starting, all of sudden - we initially thought something wrong with the float - Opened the engine but could not figure anything out. Drained oil , put it back again.  

We put it back again - retired for the day , tried again. It started the first time but it sputtered. But it ran better increasingly and we adjusted the carb a bit till it ran nice and smooth. 

Mechanic's guess is that since we had kept the engine in a tilted position , the oil pump ran completely dry. Usually it has some even if the vehicle is stationary and not started for sometime but the angle of the engine drained it completely. This is just a theory and we are not 100 % certain 

So after running the engine and heating the head - we torqued the bolts to the right settings and then final adjustments of the valves before everything is removed and ready for painting 

Attaching some photos