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1951 willys pickup project

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Schimms15 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2012 at 1:31am
well she isn't looking to bad, still need to run all the lines, and that exhaust manifold is just on for the picture and to see how it looks, i need new plugs, all new electrical wires, a bigger belt, and my farthest right exhaust stud is snapped in the block so i need to remove it still. but she is looking like an engine again and i like the colors. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2012 at 7:55am

You will want to address the clutch/brake arm pivit rod while you have good access. The petals usually rub both sides of the cab floor and screetch to high heaven.  The rod is welded to the frame and is not a easy thing to do in the truck if you need to cut it off and have a machine shop make you a new one. Mine are bushed arms now with oil grooves cut in them. Wonderful now. Don't weld the new rod back in until you fit the rod in relation to the cab floor holes. You may have to grind the holes some to get things to be a nice fit. The early trucks came with a rod welded in on both sides for left or right hand drive. I thought that was cool planning by Willys OverlandWink. The dash is set up for the glove box on both sides too. I'm planning on having two glove boxes. John

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2012 at 10:54am
shouldn't be a problem considering i have to re weld my floor boards on the cab. also that is not welded in on my frame its in a box back home. i will have to address it once i get the rest of the parts my clutch/ brake/ accelerator linkage and pedals were almost non existent when i bought the truck. i still am missing some parts. any chance you could post a picture of the assembly and linkage? in the truck is fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 July 2012 at 12:16am
opened up the front axle today and found the spiral gear to have some serious pieces out of it. it still turns and runs the gears but it has a beat on about 3 of the 8 teeth. ill try to get some picks, my other front axle has the spider gears welded toeghet, i will also try to get some picks. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 July 2012 at 7:16pm
ok so big day the frame is done and primed by the shop, I've got some pictures of it just before the final touches were put on but ill throw them up to see the hell i put jim at the shop through on this one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 July 2012 at 7:22pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug. 2012 at 12:13am
ok i will be traveling again but getting some work done i will post lots of pictures this time around, i will be finishing off the frame, adding axles, brakes, and a few other things hopefully as well as painting some of the body in primer and a bit of metal work. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug. 2012 at 7:32am
Take a look at your front cab lower mounts. Most are either broken clear out or cracked at the least. Hey,LOL grind off the rivits and send me that nice RF motor mount. ( I think I found one on a parts truck ) John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug. 2012 at 9:24am
Are the Cab lower mounts on the frame or cab itself? What do they look like?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2012 at 8:15pm
Your cab only has 4 bolts holding it to the frame. The rear two have springs above and below the mount. The fronts have just rubber pads and a bolt through the frame mount. The cab in this front area  usually breaks or cracks right where the bolt goes through.  You just weld up or repair it. John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2012 at 8:36pm
Could u pm me a picture of both please?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug. 2012 at 8:09am
I'll take some shots for you. PM me your full Email address for my photo program to use. Your mailbox is full by the way! John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2012 at 1:13am
ok got alot of work done. picked up my frame from the shop and trailered it up north to my cabin at which im assembling my truck. first was first had to paint it black, then dropped some axles under it, then a trip to the local napa and auto zone to pick up some flexible break lines and solid tubing. while at napa i picked up a new timken oil seal and decided to put it in right this time. as the pictures show i ran brake line, put freshly painted axles and springs under it, a gas tank, and ik some one out there feels this pain i ran all my brakes and bled them properly. only to remember my steering colum has to go in and i need to put it infront of my master cylinder. so i had to pull my cylinder out, rebend some line because i was out of extra so i couldnt make it longer. and got in the steering then re bled the brakes. also got my hand brake installed for the most part. here are some pictures to help, if you see the back of the truck around the tank has some metal straps around it bolted to the frame, these were missing off of one frame but a spare had them so i bolted them on with some grade 8 bolts. the steering i was unable to get on the whole way as one picture shows but it turns fine so i think its fine. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2012 at 1:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2012 at 8:46am
Depending on how you assemble things, you will probably take the column back out to put the cab on, then the column, then the transmission, then the engine. You can do it other ways, but I found that the easiest. With the engine/transmission in,  a pickup is much easier than a CJ cause the column can go through the floor complete. The clutch arm gets tight to get on/off though.  You'll figure out the puzzle that works for you. Nice looking new gas tank. Is it alumninum or painted silver? Looks like you need a 12 volt sender in it, or are you converting back to 6 volt for the original gauges? I had trouble with my Y type carburator flooding out at full throttle until I got the metering rod setup link bent according to the build directions.  The pickup rides about twice as hard as a CJ due to those 1 ton springs. Roll up windows are real nice in crappy weather!Big smile John

Edited by Oilleaker1 - 13 Aug. 2012 at 8:52am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2012 at 12:32pm
I'm going to put in a universal 12v sender in hopes to get a better reading on a modern gauge. Of like my tank to be 1/2 a tank without the gauge swinging from full to empty depending on a turn. Also the tank is stainless steel I got it with one of my bonus frames. My plan for reassembly Is to drop in the engine next and run all the lines then put the cab on over the pedals and steering column however I will have to remove the steering wheel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2012 at 10:03pm
started working on the doors tonight, the passenger side isnt bad some rust here and there but not to much, the driver has a big dent in the back of the door where it seals with the cab, also for some reason the passenger side lock is seized, im guessing rust, however i am going to flip the locking handle to the driver side and the none locking to the passanger side, i am also going to install an inside lock on both driver and passenger doors. i also have a nice big break in one of my little wing latches for the small window, ive got a repair in action and i will report on how well it works later, 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2012 at 10:11pm
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