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225 V6 overheating

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hotrod59 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 20 June 2019 at 4:22am
I need some help with the cooling system on my Jeep. This last fall I did a 225 swap in my 3A, I used a Walcks radiator with the lower outlet moved to the other side. I am also running a electric fan on the back of the radiator. The jeep runs cool when the ambient temperature is below 70. Now that it is much warmer the jeep runs hot when climbing hills slowly. What has everyone else used for a cooling system that will keep the 225 cool when it’s 90+ degrees out? Thanks for the help. 
1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 1:07pm
I had heating problems with my Dauntless to begin with in my 3A. I used the factory 3A radiator and had the outlet moved to the passenger side. I had a 15" flex fan. I made a shroud to help pull air through the radiator and that helped but still was running well over 200 when the ambient temperature exceeded 90 degrees.

I ended up ordering a aluminum radiator from Summit. It was only $159 dollars and I never have had a cooling issue since. If you want, when I get home this evening I can get you the part #.

You should still double check all your basics. Timing, fuel/air mixture both can be overlooked and cause a heating issue.
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1
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hotrod59 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hotrod59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by AKoller AKoller wrote:

I had heating problems with my Dauntless to begin with in my 3A. I used the factory 3A radiator and had the outlet moved to the passenger side. I had a 15" flex fan. I made a shroud to help pull air through the radiator and that helped but still was running well over 200 when the ambient temperature exceeded 90 degrees.

I ended up ordering a aluminum radiator from Summit. It was only $159 dollars and I never have had a cooling issue since. If you want, when I get home this evening I can get you the part #.

You should still double check all your basics. Timing, fuel/air mixture both can be overlooked and cause a heating issue.

I would appreciate the part number on the radiator. I was going to try the original radiator with the outlet moved, didnt want to spend the money on that if it wasnt going to help. I have played with the timing and air/fuel but nothing has helped.
1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 3:09pm
I am also noticing that your fan only looks to be about 12". I don't know that you will draw enough air through your radiator with that small of a fan. I am currently running a 15" flex fan (mechanical). I also have a 9 or 10" electric pusher fan to help supplement when it start warming up. I am thinking about getting rid of the mechanical fan and installing a 16" electrical fan to pull air through. I think your going to need a fan that is rated at no less than 3000 cfm from what I've found.
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 3:22pm
This is what I ended up with in my 225 flatty.


The radiator is an aluminum 24x16 Griffin large tube dual pass radiator ( in an MB grill ). The front end radiator is sealed to direct all the air coming in the grill through the core and prevent re-circulation from hot engine compartment air. The radiator is spaced back just far enough that the grill slats don't block air flow to the core. The fan shroud properly seals and spaces the Volvo two speed fan off the back. The heater loop feed out of behind the thermostat has been flow restricted to keep coolant from bypassing the radiator.  180F Thermostat. The fan is controlled by a BMW temp sensor for both high and low speed automatically, or I can manually override if needed. I also did a radiator overflow/recovery tank.

I've put about 30K miles on this combo in the last 7 years. I haven't had any cooling issues after doing this upgrade.  That includes running the vehicle for days at 3000rpm down the highway cross country, running over big Colorado mountain passes, or roaming around moab in the summer.






42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 4:32pm
Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

This is what I ended up with in my 225 flatty.


The radiator is an aluminum 24x16 Griffin large tube dual pass radiator ( in an MB grill ). The front end radiator is sealed to direct all the air coming in the grill through the core and prevent re-circulation from hot engine compartment air. The radiator is spaced back just far enough that the grill slats don't block air flow to the core. The fan shroud properly seals and spaces the Volvo two speed fan off the back. The heater loop feed out of behind the thermostat has been flow restricted to keep coolant from bypassing the radiator.  180F Thermostat. The fan is controlled by a BMW temp sensor for both high and low speed automatically, or I can manually override if needed. I also did a radiator overflow/recovery tank.


Brennen, That is a nice setup. It looks as if you relocated your battery somewhere else to fit that radiator?
I've put about 30K miles on this combo in the last 7 years. I haven't had any cooling issues after doing this upgrade.  That includes running the vehicle for days at 3000rpm down the highway cross country, running over big Colorado mountain passes, or roaming around moab in the summer.






1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 4:39pm
Below is a picture of mine. It fits in between the driver side frame rail and the factory battery mount. You can see my flex fan sits pretty low on the radiator but i have the electric pusher fan between the radiator and the grill.




The only time I've ever seen it come close to 200 degrees is if I'm lugging it hard on a hot day for an extended amount of time. I think I could completely solve the issue by either building a shroud to help pull air through or eliminating the mechanical fan and installing a 16", thermostat contolled electric fan that is rated at 3000 cfm or more.

On Sunday I drove it about 50 miles round trip at 55 MPH (which is about 2800 rpm with my gearing) to my parents house to get together for fathers day. It was 90 degrees outside and the gauge never moved over 165 degrees. With my factory radiator I would have been at 225 degrees.

I now need to install a 180 degree thermostat. I had installed the 160 degree thermostat when I was having heating issues.


Edited by AKoller - 20 June 2019 at 4:50pm
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
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hotrod59 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hotrod59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 4:51pm
Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

This is what I ended up with in my 225 flatty.


The radiator is an aluminum 24x16 Griffin large tube dual pass radiator ( in an MB grill ). The front end radiator is sealed to direct all the air coming in the grill through the core and prevent re-circulation from hot engine compartment air. The radiator is spaced back just far enough that the grill slats don't block air flow to the core. The fan shroud properly seals and spaces the Volvo two speed fan off the back. The heater loop feed out of behind the thermostat has been flow restricted to keep coolant from bypassing the radiator.  180F Thermostat. The fan is controlled by a BMW temp sensor for both high and low speed automatically, or I can manually override if needed. I also did a radiator overflow/recovery tank.

I've put about 30K miles on this combo in the last 7 years. I haven't had any cooling issues after doing this upgrade.  That includes running the vehicle for days at 3000rpm down the highway cross country, running over big Colorado mountain passes, or roaming around moab in the summer.







I saw your setup on another post, I really like the way it is set up. I am trying not to cut my grille to pieces doing this, but that might be what happens. Thanks for the info.
1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hotrod59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 5:22pm
Originally posted by AKoller AKoller wrote:

Below is a picture of mine. It fits in between the driver side frame rail and the factory battery mount. You can see my flex fan sits pretty low on the radiator but i have the electric pusher fan between the radiator and the grill.




The only time I've ever seen it come close to 200 degrees is if I'm lugging it hard on a hot day for an extended amount of time. I think I could completely solve the issue by either building a shroud to help pull air through or eliminating the mechanical fan and installing a 16", thermostat contolled electric fan that is rated at 3000 cfm or more.

On Sunday I drove it about 50 miles round trip at 55 MPH (which is about 2800 rpm with my gearing) to my parents house to get together for fathers day. It was 90 degrees outside and the gauge never moved over 165 degrees. With my factory radiator I would have been at 225 degrees.

I now need to install a 180 degree thermostat. I had installed the 160 degree thermostat when I was having heating issues.

Thank you for the information. I think your set up is what i need to get. The fan on mine is a little small so I will up-grade that as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by AKoller AKoller wrote:


Brennen, That is a nice setup. It looks as if you relocated your battery somewhere else to fit that radiator?
 


Yup, when I built the new frame I didn't bother putting the battery back in the stock location. I ended up tucking a group 51 battery on top of frame just under the kick in the floor on the passenger side.


42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 June 2019 at 12:21pm
Here is the part # for the radiator I have from Summit.

1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepN95YJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2019 at 4:36pm
Originally posted by hotrod59 hotrod59 wrote:


Looking at your pics my first thought is that you need a fan shroud.  This would help the fan pull air over the entire cooling surface of the radiator instead of the focused pull under the fan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich M. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2019 at 5:08pm

I'm with the too small fan / needs a better shroud club. Aftermarket fan manufacturers are very generous with their advertised cfm ratings.
This fan is coveted by the hot rod folks. They use an aftermarket controller but if you rob the controls from the donor it can be done much cheaper.


My setup is out of a Ford Focus. It has twin fans, two speed. I rigged the low speed on automatic and can activate high speed from a switch on the dash. I also have an off position for water crossing.


Edited by Rich M. - 22 June 2019 at 5:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flatfender47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2019 at 6:24pm
I see a couple things that all together could cause your problem.
The fan not being centered in the radiator.
No fan shroud.
No "felts" or material to block the air area between the radiator and the grille.
The diameter of the water pump pulley. I've not seen one with different diameters; what's the diameter of the one that's driving the belt ?
The radiator cap; what's the pressure rating ? if it's small cap format, a 15-16 lb should be on there. 
If not, consider replacing the neck to accept the larger pressure cap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote duffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2019 at 2:47am
I went through this scenario on my 3B over the course of 3 engine transplants-327, 350, and 381.  I originally set it up (ca 1973) with a vertical Chevy truck radiator.  That required a dropped front frame cross member.  It sort of worked----with the 327

Next was a 4 row Modine 19x26 cross flow.  With a good, tight fit shroud and a 19" mechanical fan you had to work it pretty hard to get it above 200 but it did on occasion.

The latest is a 19x26" aluminum radiator from Summit, used again with the above shroud and 19" fan.  Perfect even with the 381.  The switch from brass to aluminum alone was worth about 15 degrees.

Even if your fan isn't centered on the radiator, a good shroud will still pull air through the entire radiator core if it is well fit/designed with no air leaks.  IMO, a shroud is absolutely essential for any performance cooling system.  Your options with the 225 are far fewer than for a sbc.  There are a lot of high flow water pumps and all sorts of other component for the Chevys.  I'm using a FlowKooler 1880 pump and I had a custom 3 groove water pump pulley machined for a 15% speed increase (and I really needed that third groove).  Last and most easy, throw a bottle of water wetter in.  It does work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hotrod59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2019 at 4:48am
Thank you all for the advice. I think I am going to get a bigger crossflow radiator and go with the Volvo cooling fans with a custom shroud. Went to the local junkyard and pulled a couple of fans and the wiring. Now all I need to do is order a radiator. 

Edited by hotrod59 - 25 June 2019 at 4:11pm
1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob3b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2019 at 3:57pm
I think you at least need a shroud so the fan can pull air through the radiator all over the surface, not just where the fan is. That and a bigger fan would probably solve the issue you are having.
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