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'42/'47 Rebuild Project in Tsawwassen

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SlaterDoc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2021 at 1:49pm
Love it! You can now claim a new form of "bio-fuel"!
One small suggestion from having owned a smalll bar once, you may want to place some small rubber insulators between the metal support strap and the glass to avoid another crack.
Once a Navy man, always a Navy man!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2021 at 2:29pm
I do need to bend the side metal mount out a bit to avoid the glass. I did put a rubber pad under the shot glass and the tension screw.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2021 at 11:38pm
I found a reasonably priced sediment bowl on eBay so it’s  on its way from Arizona. I think I’ll run the shot glass for a while and keep the new one as a spare.

Ken realized that we may have messed up the timing when we switched the electronic ignition from 6v to 12v. I adjusted it today and that seems to have helped with the knocking sound.

I also got seatbelts installed today. Seemed appropriate now that the jeep had a roll bar.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2021 at 2:07am
I fabricated plates to go behind the seatbelt mount points to spread the load a bit. I figure it’s better than just a bolt and washer through the sheet metal.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2021 at 2:41am
I met a guy recently who told me he had a GoDevil engine out of a 1940 Americar. So I went out and hauled it home today. It’s complete with starter, generator and carburetor. It even has the original transmission still attached. I’ve got it stored in the garage. That might be my winter project to build a spare engine.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 2:39am
I got the head off tonight.
One stud sheared off but the others came out no problem.




So far so good. It does not look too bad to me. I put diesel
In the cylinders and I’ll give it a week then continue to tear the engine down.








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2021 at 4:54pm
I got a little deeper in to the spare engine yesterday.

Exhaust manifold..


Tappets...

Looks like the mice took up residence in the clutch bell housing.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2021 at 5:18pm
Willys archeology. Hopefully the block is uncracked and salvageable. Tough little four-bangers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2021 at 2:39am
So I finally got around to adjusting the valves in my running jeep. I’d been procrastinating but it’s actually really easy. I removed the left fender and front wheel to give me better access.




Good lighting....


Slightly more than the .016” clearance. No wonder they chattered!



Success, no more ticking and tapping all the time. It still has that mystery noise at high rpm. I’ll drop the oil pan soon and check the bearings.


Edited by 92889 - 31 May 2021 at 2:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2021 at 11:56pm
So we went looking for that knocking sound I’m getting. Disconnected the fan belt and ran the engine to eliminate the possibility of it being the water pump or the alternator. Played with the timing and we were able to recreate the sound by advancing the timing too far. Detonation? The sound is almost definitely coming from the top of the engine. Drained the oil and inspected with a magnet. No shavings. Finally we decided to remove the head and have a look. There was some odd discolouration between the intake and exhaust valves next to cylinder 3.



I posted these pics in a few places to ask for opinions. One suggested that water may be leaking in there and creating steam. A close inspection of the deck possibly supports this. Take note of the markings in the red circle below compared to the green circle. Minor water leak? 🤔 



Also lots of fouling in the valve seats in this position. 

So we lapped all the valves and gave everything a good clean up and inspection.



We replaced the head gasket and torqued the head down to spec. Then we readjusted all the valves to .016”. 

While the head was off we set all the pistons to 1/2 travel in the cylinders. Then we used a very precise micrometer touching the top of each piston. Very gently put some forward and back pressure on the crank which in all 4 pistons resulted on an immediate reading of travel on the gauge. This tells us there is no slop where the piston rods attach to the crank. 

Today I got the rest of the jeep assembled.

I also flushed out the radiator and water jacket. A decent amount of crud washed out, so that’s good.





I’ll fire it up tomorrow and go for a test run. Then retorque the head bolts.

Fingers crossed!

If the noise reappears I guess we’ll drop the pan and have a close look at the bottom end of the engine. But hopefully it does not come to that.


Edited by 92889 - 03 June 2021 at 12:02am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2021 at 7:42am
A very thorough diagnosis with useful pics, thanks for sharing this Jon. Gotta appreciate the simplicity of a flathead four when issues like this arise. No timing chain or belt, or even pushrods, to fiddle with when pulling the head.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2021 at 7:34pm
Test drive today and the knock is still there. However I think I have figured it out.

Absolutely 100% it’s detonation linked to timing.

After my test drive I advanced the timing till I got the knocking at idle in the garage. Then I retarded it significantly and went for a drive. It ran like garbage but when a went flat out in all 3 gears no knocking no noise. Brought it home, advanced the timing slightly, another test run and only a hint of a knock at the very top end of every gear change.

I also pulled the plug wires one at a time and the knock is present in all cylinders. I also used the stethoscope and it’s in the top end. 

So now what to do? All this makes sense to me as I did not have a problem when the jeep was 6 v the problem only presented after I switched to 12v.

Among other things I had replaced the 6v Pertronix ignition unit with their 12v unit. So maybe I have a faulty part in there.

I think I’ll put the original points back in the distributor and see what happens.

I am glad it’s not a physical metal in metal issue.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2021 at 8:14pm
Does your distributor advance as it should? Mine didn't and I picked up some more power making it work properly. Might be worth a look.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2021 at 8:20pm
Jon, could you have a tank full of bad fuel?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2021 at 2:06am
No it’s not bad fuel. I’ve drive regularly and have filled up multiple times.

I have been researching Auto Lite IAD 4008 distributors and came across this....


I’ll dig in to my distributor next week.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote outlw21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2021 at 11:59pm
You stated in your rebuild that you decked the head and block. Was the block decked enough that the pistons are so far above the block deck at TDC that they may be hitting something?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2021 at 12:29am
No that’s not the issue. We checked the travel of everything while the head was off.

I can create the sound by advancing the timing to far and I can eliminate the sound by restarting the timing too far. When it’s too far back it idles like garbage and loses a lot of power. But it does prove to me that its detonation and not parts physically contacting each other.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2021 at 12:31am
I have a thread regarding this started in the tech section.

Please join us there....

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