'42/'47 Rebuild Project in Tsawwassen |
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SlaterDoc
Member Joined: 03 Mar. 2020 Location: Catskills, NY Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Love it! You can now claim a new form of "bio-fuel"! One small suggestion from having owned a smalll bar once, you may want to place some small rubber insulators between the metal support strap and the glass to avoid another crack.
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Once a Navy man, always a Navy man!
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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I do need to bend the side metal mount out a bit to avoid the glass. I did put a rubber pad under the shot glass and the tension screw.
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15 Field RCA
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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I found a reasonably priced sediment bowl on eBay so it’s on its way from Arizona. I think I’ll run the shot glass for a while and keep the new one as a spare.
Ken realized that we may have messed up the timing when we switched the electronic ignition from 6v to 12v. I adjusted it today and that seems to have helped with the knocking sound. I also got seatbelts installed today. Seemed appropriate now that the jeep had a roll bar. |
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15 Field RCA
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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I fabricated plates to go behind the seatbelt mount points to spread the load a bit. I figure it’s better than just a bolt and washer through the sheet metal.
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15 Field RCA
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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I met a guy recently who told me he had a GoDevil engine out of a 1940 Americar. So I went out and hauled it home today. It’s complete with starter, generator and carburetor. It even has the original transmission still attached. I’ve got it stored in the garage. That might be my winter project to build a spare engine.
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15 Field RCA
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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I got the head off tonight.
One stud sheared off but the others came out no problem. So far so good. It does not look too bad to me. I put diesel In the cylinders and I’ll give it a week then continue to tear the engine down. |
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15 Field RCA
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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I got a little deeper in to the spare engine yesterday.
Exhaust manifold.. Tappets... Looks like the mice took up residence in the clutch bell housing. |
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15 Field RCA
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LuzonRed47
Member Joined: 11 Apr. 2007 Location: Plymouth, MI Status: Offline Points: 842 |
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Willys archeology. Hopefully the block is uncracked and salvageable. Tough little four-bangers!
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CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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So I finally got around to adjusting the valves in my running jeep. I’d been procrastinating but it’s actually really easy. I removed the left fender and front wheel to give me better access.
Good lighting.... Slightly more than the .016” clearance. No wonder they chattered! Success, no more ticking and tapping all the time. It still has that mystery noise at high rpm. I’ll drop the oil pan soon and check the bearings.
Edited by 92889 - 31 May 2021 at 2:40am |
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15 Field RCA
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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So we went looking for that knocking sound I’m getting. Disconnected the fan belt and ran the engine to eliminate the possibility of it being the water pump or the alternator. Played with the timing and we were able to recreate the sound by advancing the timing too far. Detonation? The sound is almost definitely coming from the top of the engine. Drained the oil and inspected with a magnet. No shavings. Finally we decided to remove the head and have a look. There was some odd discolouration between the intake and exhaust valves next to cylinder 3.
I posted these pics in a few places to ask for opinions. One suggested that water may be leaking in there and creating steam. A close inspection of the deck possibly supports this. Take note of the markings in the red circle below compared to the green circle. Minor water leak? 🤔 Also lots of fouling in the valve seats in this position. So we lapped all the valves and gave everything a good clean up and inspection. We replaced the head gasket and torqued the head down to spec. Then we readjusted all the valves to .016”. While the head was off we set all the pistons to 1/2 travel in the cylinders. Then we used a very precise micrometer touching the top of each piston. Very gently put some forward and back pressure on the crank which in all 4 pistons resulted on an immediate reading of travel on the gauge. This tells us there is no slop where the piston rods attach to the crank. Today I got the rest of the jeep assembled. I also flushed out the radiator and water jacket. A decent amount of crud washed out, so that’s good. I’ll fire it up tomorrow and go for a test run. Then retorque the head bolts. Fingers crossed! If the noise reappears I guess we’ll drop the pan and have a close look at the bottom end of the engine. But hopefully it does not come to that.
Edited by 92889 - 03 June 2021 at 12:02am |
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15 Field RCA
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LuzonRed47
Member Joined: 11 Apr. 2007 Location: Plymouth, MI Status: Offline Points: 842 |
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A very thorough diagnosis with useful pics, thanks for sharing this Jon. Gotta appreciate the simplicity of a flathead four when issues like this arise. No timing chain or belt, or even pushrods, to fiddle with when pulling the head.
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CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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Test drive today and the knock is still there. However I think I have figured it out. Absolutely 100% it’s detonation linked to timing. After my test drive I advanced the timing till I got the knocking at idle in the garage. Then I retarded it significantly and went for a drive. It ran like garbage but when a went flat out in all 3 gears no knocking no noise. Brought it home, advanced the timing slightly, another test run and only a hint of a knock at the very top end of every gear change. I also pulled the plug wires one at a time and the knock is present in all cylinders. I also used the stethoscope and it’s in the top end. So now what to do? All this makes sense to me as I did not have a problem when the jeep was 6 v the problem only presented after I switched to 12v. Among other things I had replaced the 6v Pertronix ignition unit with their 12v unit. So maybe I have a faulty part in there. I think I’ll put the original points back in the distributor and see what happens. I am glad it’s not a physical metal in metal issue. |
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15 Field RCA
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otto
Member Joined: 26 Feb. 2012 Location: Orygun Status: Offline Points: 2266 |
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Does your distributor advance as it should? Mine didn't and I picked up some more power making it work properly. Might be worth a look.
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47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A 64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle! |
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LuzonRed47
Member Joined: 11 Apr. 2007 Location: Plymouth, MI Status: Offline Points: 842 |
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Jon, could you have a tank full of bad fuel?
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CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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No it’s not bad fuel. I’ve drive regularly and have filled up multiple times.
I have been researching Auto Lite IAD 4008 distributors and came across this.... I’ll dig in to my distributor next week.
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15 Field RCA
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outlw21
Member Joined: 06 Aug. 2017 Location: bakersfield CA Status: Offline Points: 240 |
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You stated in your rebuild that you decked the head and block. Was the block decked enough that the pistons are so far above the block deck at TDC that they may be hitting something?
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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No that’s not the issue. We checked the travel of everything while the head was off.
I can create the sound by advancing the timing to far and I can eliminate the sound by restarting the timing too far. When it’s too far back it idles like garbage and loses a lot of power. But it does prove to me that its detonation and not parts physically contacting each other.
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15 Field RCA
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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I have a thread regarding this started in the tech section.
Please join us there.... |
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15 Field RCA
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