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46 CJ2A #18450

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Unkamonkey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2017 at 2:15am
Interesting your using vinegar. Let us know how it works. A few years ago I was over having a couple cool ones with my neighbor and we sprayed down the hood on his sons Blazer with WD40 and wiped it in. Huh, much better. About a year later the kid stacked it up in a ditch but the hood still looked nice.
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Stev View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2017 at 2:44am
Erin,

I am still thinking 1945.  Steering wheel is another indication.

What about the frame?  There is a  frame cross member just forward of where the rear shocks mount.  Does it by chance have what looks like a half oval mount that.  What I am wondering is it a MB frame with the machine Gun pedestal mounting plate.  For some time they just cut off the front half of the plate so it would accommodate the 2A style tub.

Again - we need a 1945 expert to chime in.
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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EMyers View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EMyers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2017 at 2:50am
Originally posted by Unkamonkey Unkamonkey wrote:

Interesting your using vinegar. Let us know how it works. A few years ago I was over having a couple cool ones with my neighbor and we sprayed down the hood on his sons Blazer with WD40 and wiped it in. Huh, much better. About a year later the kid stacked it up in a ditch but the hood still looked nice.

Haha! Hope the kid was ok.
But there it is. Proof positive that WD-40 is a preservative! First thing I did when I got it home was drench it with a gallon of WD. 

I’ve used vinegar before as a rust remover on parts. I was sanding the Jeep with wet/dry and water, took a swig of beer and saw the vinegar. Jury is out on the results, but beer obviously is the cause of good ideas! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EMyers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2017 at 3:05am
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

Erin,

I am still thinking 1945.  Steering wheel is another indication.

What about the frame?  There is a  frame cross member just forward of where the rear shocks mount.  Does it by chance have what looks like a half oval mount that.  What I am wondering is it a MB frame with the machine Gun pedestal mounting plate.  For some time they just cut off the front half of the plate so it would accommodate the 2A style tub.

Again - we need a 1945 expert to chime in.

Stev
no evidence there was a half oval mount on the cross beam
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Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2017 at 3:16am
Well, I know I'm going to rile someone up, but in my world, "patina" is weathered paint, not rust.  Rust is rust and I HATE rust. 

That said, the square washers on the windshield frame indicate a very early civilian Jeep.  I was under the impression that they were only on '45s.  I welcome correction by those who know. 
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2017 at 6:28pm
Very cool and welcome!

Data--> http://cj-2a.com/parts_list/CJ2A_data.php
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2017 at 10:10pm
Wow, nice find!......The front bumper looks in great shape, a sign this jeep was probably never abused. IMHO. Joe
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2017 at 5:21pm
Very nice score Erin!  Look forward to the upcoming progress. 

All of the 2As discovered with MB frames range from serial number. 291XX to 293XX.

Even though the Jeep has many ‘45 attributes, it is an early ‘46 as evident by the Dana 41 rear axle. 
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2017 at 6:33pm
A time warp...all those little stone chips add up to so much history
1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2017 at 8:29am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

Even though the Jeep has many ‘45 attributes, it is an early ‘46 as evident by the Dana 41 rear axle. 


Excellent point! 
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paraex79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2017 at 1:15pm
Hey Erin, any chance that 'farm key' of yours has a magnet in the end...I have seen them made like that in South Africa so that the driver was able to leave the key hidden away under the body/tub somewhere....especially surfers.....just a thought.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EMyers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2017 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by Paraex79 Paraex79 wrote:

Hey Erin, any chance that 'farm key' of yours has a magnet in the end...I have seen them made like that in South Africa so that the driver was able to leave the key hidden away under the body/tub somewhere....especially surfers.....just a thought.

Cool idea! No hidden magnet though. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mhovey46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov. 2017 at 2:06am
Very nice jeep! I'm glad to hear you are leaving the patina the way it is. I've seen too many original jeeps get restored when they can be left just the way they are. I dream about finding an original like yours someday! You're in the right place to get all the info you need to get that beauty back on the road! 

Edited by Mhovey46 - 20 Nov. 2017 at 2:28am
-Matt

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srlbotanical Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov. 2017 at 2:25am
Just fantastic!

Welcome. I'm looking forward to watching your build. 

I love the way it looks just as it sits.

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EMyers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2018 at 5:08pm
I've been doing a lot of reading and research here, head scratching and beer swilling with a few "consultants" so I can get a sense of direction for this project. This is a long read and I promise to add pics later, but maybe this is useful info to someone.  

Prior to this crazy arctic tundra weather, here's what I got done;
 Stabilize the rust, scrape off the oil flavored dirt brownies....done   
 Evaluate missing/broken/incorrect parts and make a Christmas/birthday/fathers day wish list....done 
 Removed the grill, radiator, fenders and hood to access the engine....done 
 Unstuck the engine and replaced the bent rearmost exhaust valve, (why always that one?!)....done

Threw a battery in and it turns over with oil pump squirting! I was so excited by this that I forgot to check  for spark. LOL  Dropped the pan and mucked out that molasses. 

PO had just added new oil over that crud. Whats weird is the oil pan plug thread at the interior base looks like some alien metal termites had a good meal! Its usable but never saw corrosion like that. Here is where it got fun. I notice the block petcock is not there. I look in the drain hole and see it is blocked up. It was so bad, at first i thought it was soldered shut!! Pic is upside down 

I pull the pump and see the block is completely dry, like ancient Egyptian pyramid dry, with lots of rust debris. I tap the block drain with a bottoming tap and slowly clear the threads to the back of the drain. I got a stout brass wire and went at the blockage from the water pump mount hole and eventually saw light when i put a flashlight to the drain. I stuck a magnet retriever in the block and got lots of rust attaching each time I root around in there. I used a vinegar water rinse to flush the block and finished with antifreeze. Still crud in there, dammit. 

 I was hoping to just lap the valves and check compression, fresh fluids and run this pup, BUT the first exhaust valve is actually so loose I can wiggle it even under spring pressure. I only have the first four valves lapped. Pistons are all standard size that I believe to be original. Clock has 20,009 miles and I really believe that to be accurate. There is a bit of a wear ring at the top of the cylinders, not enough to catch a fingernail on but it is there. 


That's as far as I got before we went into hibernation. When the weather breaks, is it worth a gasket set and fluids to put this back together and fire it up? Probably not, but I really want to hear it run. 
I plan on a proper rebuild anyway. Oh this might be of interest. The rebuild is going to be done by Jan Cen motor sports. Not known for old stuff like this but they probably can handle the job. Anyone hear of them? 




Edited by EMyers - 15 Jan. 2018 at 11:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2018 at 5:54pm
Make sure the shop knows about the special requirements for the rear seal journal. Most machine shops don't even have the ability to grind such a narrow Journal. I had to go to a OLD SCHOOL crankshaft shop up in Portland in order for them to be able to resurface to SPEC that journal. If they are going to be doing the assembly make sure they have the manual to know exactly how to do the crank end play. There is a Min diameter for the rear seal Journal I forget what it is now but there were Bulletins on it they can look up on line.
Chug A Lug
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2018 at 6:03pm
Watch out. I've had trouble in the past with "race engine" shops that don't seem to realize that there may be a reason for an engine to be built NOT for racing. They may do things that are not necessary, charge a lot of money for it, and create an engine totally unusable for the street or trail. Make sure they understand the difference and are willing to do only what YOU want.   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EMyers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2018 at 7:53pm
Thanks for the warning guys, good advice. I know the owner through friends and they are very knowledable. I’ll be sure to go slow here and be sure before I commit to them. I have a few other shops to check out first anyway. 
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