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'46 CJ-2A Engine or Starter HELP!!! |
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matthewpatz 
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Joined: 02 Oct. 2007 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolin Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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 Topic: '46 CJ-2A Engine or Starter HELP!!!Posted: 02 Oct. 2007 at 3:14am |
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I just purchased a 1946 Willys CJ-2A with a L134 engine. I Just took the carburator apart and cleaned it and flushed the gas tank to clean out the trash. Put it back together and everything was working fine and the engine running like a champ, better than before. I was driving it the other night and when I pulled into the driveway and got to an idle the engine starting knocking, coming from the back of the engine. I killed the engine and turned it over with the ignition and it would turn but still made a knocking noise. the next morning I disconnected the fuel line and tried to turn it with the starter it turn over once. Afterward I could not get it to move and the starter will not "engage" anymore, I just get a click from the solenoid. Can any body help me trouble shoot this problem? Is the starter frozen or the Engine?
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RA472A
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Joined: 15 Nov. 2005 Status: Offline Points: 367 |
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Posted: 02 Oct. 2007 at 5:50am |
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Try pulling the strter out and reinstalling it just to see if it will turn over after that. My 2A has done this recently also and it seems the starter is engaging and locking up on occasion. If you can't get it to start by pulling it, then chances are it's the starter binding up in some way, especially if your electricals seem okay (ie, you have lights and gauges flutter when the key is turned on. Give it a try.
doesn't take too long in the process of elimination.
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F Bill
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Posted: 02 Oct. 2007 at 12:21pm |
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You should be able to turn the engine over by hand fairly easily after you pull that starter...Or put the jeep in high gear and try to rock the jeep back and forth to unlock the starter from the flywheel if it has jammed.
That knocking has me concerned however. Once you hear a rod knock you will never forget it, as it can be a very expensive noise. If you are really lucky it might be a loose flywheel or something rattling against the engine, but odds are there is something internal that happenned. Check the flywheel when the starter is out.
Good luck, let us know what happenned!
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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LowCountry
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Joined: 29 Sep. 2007 Location: Beaufort, SC Status: Offline Points: 74 |
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Posted: 02 Oct. 2007 at 2:03pm |
Matthew... did you happen to run across any other Willys for sale in SC? I'm looking.
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matthewpatz
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Joined: 02 Oct. 2007 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolin Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Posted: 02 Oct. 2007 at 5:35pm |
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Thank You for your responses. I feel a little better now that there is a small chance it may not be fatal. I will try pulling the starter this evening when I get off work and PRAY that is the problem. I will update with the results.
Posted: Today at 9:03am By LowCountry
Matthew... did you happen to run across any other Willys for sale in SC? I'm looking.
I did not find anything in SC. I live in Myrtle Beach and drove to Tampa, FL to pick up my Willys. I have become a "Willys Head" by accident but after I drove the 2A around and took it in the woods I got HOOKED!! I was looking for a small vehicle to use on some hunting property, (ATV's are not allowed) and wanted something that was somewhat easy for the mechanically deprived individual like myself to work on. I know enough about engine to be VERY dangerous, but love learning. I thought the Willys would be a good start for me in restoration but I was not planning on beginning my restoration adventure so soon. I was hoping at least a year or two. But I see the Willys Gods had different plans for me. I am excited to get started and will definitely be keeping the internet connection smoking posting my cries for help!! This site has been VERY helpful and resourceful. I look forward to joining the community and hopefully get my Willys back on the trails. I'll try and get some pictures posted....if I can figure out how (I know enough about computers to be dangerous as well). |
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sudsie
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Posted: 02 Oct. 2007 at 6:37pm |
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Welcome Matthew, might i ask you who you bought your jeep from in Tampa, Fl ?
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matthewpatz
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Joined: 02 Oct. 2007 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolin Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Posted: 02 Oct. 2007 at 8:02pm |
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I found it on E-bay. Jaime Baron in Ellenton, FL which is about 25 minutes south of Tampa.
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Brachus12
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Joined: 04 Jan. 2007 Location: Upstate, SC Status: Offline Points: 738 |
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Posted: 02 Oct. 2007 at 9:46pm |
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Matthew: Welcome to the forum from another Sandlapper!
Brachus |
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47 CJ2A #101361 "Bugger"
42 GPW 75248 SPEN Trailer 62 M170 13758 http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y119/brachus/Willys |
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matthewpatz
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Joined: 02 Oct. 2007 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolin Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 1:05am |
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I just pulled the starter and tried to push the jeep while in gear and got nothing. It will not move and the fly wheel doesn't even budge. Now I did not try pulling the jeep with another vehicle, I figured I should be able turn the engine by pushing. Is it normally hard to turn the engine by hand? Not sure where to go from here, Should I drop the oil pan and look inside from below or Should I remove the Cylinder head? Should I do Both? ANY Suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!! Plese keep in mind I have limited tools readily available.
While I was in the area I got the numbers off the block and S/N:
Engin Block Passenger side:
4-27 (with the arrow pointing between the first two notches)
CC
638632-W3-A-N1-CR-N2
Cylinder Head:
5-15
640
Engine Block drivers side front near the fuel pump:
3
Tag inside wall of engine wall passenger side: CJ-2A 40158
Now can any body decipher this?
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Jeff
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 1:15am |
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what gear did you try when pushing? Ideally it would be third gear as first would make it much harder. perhaps you could pull the plugs, place the jeep in neutral, and try to turn the engine over by hand using the nut on the lower pulley
Jeff
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matthewpatz
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Joined: 02 Oct. 2007 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolin Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 2:00am |
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I misread the last digit on the s/n........ Engin Block Passenger side:
4-27 (with the arrow pointing between the first two notches)
CC
638632-W3-A-N1-CR-N2
Cylinder Head:
5-15
64016
Engine Block drivers side front near the fuel pump:
3
Tag inside wall of engine wall passenger side: CJ-2A 40153
Frame Tag:
40153
Now can any body decipher this? |
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matthewpatz
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Joined: 02 Oct. 2007 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolin Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 2:06am |
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Thanks Everyone for the greetings and advice......Please keep them coming, I am open to any & all sugestions, especially from those who have been there and done that. There definitely is no need for two people making the same mistake if preventable.
I did try 1st & Reverse.....did not try 2nd or 3rd. When I try pushing it it rolls the inch or so that's the free play then once it hits the gears it is like hitting a brick wall. Does not come close to feeling like it will give just stops.
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matthewpatz
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Joined: 02 Oct. 2007 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolin Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 2:11am |
Brachus, thanks for the greet! I am glad to see a couple of guys from S.C. I was wondering if you had any advice on places locally or close by for parts, new & used. I found the place in Aiken but nothing else.
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sean
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 2:23am |
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Matthew:
Is there an engine serial number stamped on the boss behind the water pump? Sean |
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F Bill
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 2:28am |
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Use third gear when you try pushing, in high range, 2 wheel drive. Otherwise your gear ratio to the crank from the wheels will be just way too high to have any chance of turning the engine over by this method. On a smooth driveway or garage floor, no brakes on, in high gear you should be able to nudge the jeep ahead or back using your knees against the bumper. That's how some of us will bump the engine over to time it.
If you are careful with a wide pry bar you may also be able to pry from the starter hole to see if you get any motion whatsoever. Don't go nuts here or you'll ruin something expensive. If you can get someone to hold the clutch in you can eliminate the transmission as a source of the lockup....
Just out of curiosity, check to see if you have a complete drive on that starter and nothing dropped into the bellhousing to jam things up . Normally a starter drive will make lots of neat crunching noises and get broken up into pieces that stay down there in the bottom until the next clutch job, but it is something to check out.
What it sounds like is that you had some lubrication issue and spun a rod or main bearing and the crank has locked up. Hopefully there isn't a tossed connecting rod thru the pan or block. The bearing issue will require a complete teardown , diagnosis of the failure, and replacement of at the worst, crank, rods, and bearings.
GOod luck!Lets hope it is someting simple and easy!
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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matthewpatz
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Joined: 02 Oct. 2007 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolin Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 2:30am |
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Thanks!!
I thought there were more # on the cylinder head but I could not see them since the oil filter bracket is covering them. I could see anything stamped on the boss behind the water pump. I did not scrub it shiny clean though so maybe given the angle & Light I could not see it. I figured I am going to have to pull the engine out very soon so when it's out and I can clean it all up I will be able to look it over more closely.
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matthewpatz
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Joined: 02 Oct. 2007 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolin Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 2:44am |
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Thanks F Bill that's more helpful information. I will give it a try and see what happens.
If I have to teardown the engine is it easier to remove the body and then pull the engine or is it better to just pull it out with a motor lift and leave the body alone? I really do not want to start a full restoration right now. My main goal is to get the engine running and working. The body is in decent shape, the previous owner just recently Bondo and patched and repainted it a few years ago. If I have to pull the engine I think I am going to go ahead and replace the clutch and maybe replace the rear PTO with a dual Front & Rear PTO. Any advice on this? The transmission and transfer case appears to be working fine. Any advice on if I should upgrade them or just keep the same thing I have now? My primary use of the jeep is on my huntiing property.
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samcj2a
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2007 at 2:45am |
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As I have been following this thread, I agree with F Bill that it sounds as though you have an engine locked up from a frozen rod or main bearing. Even if not this, the other possibilities also suggest that the engine will need to come out to fix them too. I suffered this on my first 2A long ago. That you rocked it both backwards and forwards and it did not budge is not a good sign.
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matthewpatz wrote:
