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46 CJ2A |
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Tartone 
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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 Posted: 25 June 2019 at 5:57pm |
 
Installed a new throw out bearing and prepped for
bell housing to engine reattachment. Took my time using a load leveler,
two floor jacks, and transmission jack in order to get engine and transmission
on the same plane. Broke one bolt on the clutch pressure plate in the
flywheel but was able to remove easily with extractor. Next up will be putting the power train back in the Jeep.
Hopefully, all my lessons learned will make the install a little easier.
I have also replaced all the flex hose lines with the exception of the drivers
side front line. Those brake line clips are being a real pain. I
hope to have all this installed by the end of the next weekend, then I can
decide on a radiator and fuel tank. The fuel tank that is with it has
small pin holes and a lot of rust inside. |
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 02 July 2019 at 7:47pm |
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Finished replacing the master cylinder along with steel brake lines and flex hoses. Changed the front differential gasket while I had the bolts out.
 Installed the power train back into the CJ. Definitely took some time to maneuver the engine, tranny, and t case back into place. I had to remove the front bumper to get enough reach into the engine compartment. I did not have to remove it during the engine removal phase. Every bolt on the bumper broke. Reinstalled t case shift levers before raising into place. Installing all the small odds and ends and then I will install a new radiator and gas tank. Hopefully I'll be able to fire her up within the next month.     |
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 05 Aug. 2019 at 3:43pm |
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Installed a new aluminum radiator and started piecing together a lot of the odds and ends. Started working on wiring harness also. New gas tank should be in this week and that will round out the fuel system. Getting close, should be able to test run her soon. 
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Ol' Unreliable
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 4:33am |
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That radiator has a 16-lb cap. Are your engine gaskets up to snuff? When I put one of those radiators in, I hadn't changed any gaskets out so I got a 4-lb cap like the original just to spare myself the need to change all the gaskets.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 07 Aug. 2019 at 2:29pm |
I hadn't really thought about that. They are all new gaskets from the rebuild, so I think everything should be fine, but I might pick up another cap just to be on the safe side. |
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 23 Sep. 2019 at 8:54pm |
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It's been awhile since I provided an update. I got everything all put back together. Replaced the points and condenser, ignition coil, battery wires, and starter wire. The starter seemed a bit sluggish even with cleaning up all my metal to metal contacts, and grounding straps. I ended up running another 1 gauge wire from the back of the starter to the battery tray. This greatly improved the starter's speed.
Installed a plastic fuel tank and put new corks on the float.
  When I first tried to start it I did not have good luck. I did not rebuild the carb, and the float was somehow stuck to the bottom of the bowl (some sort of insect nest) which cause excess fuel to pour into the intake manifold. I rebuilt the carb and cleaned all the excess fuel out of the intake and dried out the spark plugs over night. Fuel pump is pumping fuel just fine. I followed the 17 page document on the forums for setting up my timing. Flywheel is on correctly, but oil pump is indexed incorrectly. The picture above shows where the rotor points when at TDC. After I did all that she fired up on the first try. Oil pressure was good, along with the ammeter, and temp gauge. Generator was charging battery up around 7 volts. I was able to start her three more times and even drive a little bit out of my garage before it stalled. Once it stalled she didn't wanna start again all evening. Coil got extremely hot and battery lost charge from cranking attempts. It is a 6 volt system. I am going to try again this evening after letting it sit all last night and today. Hopefully I didn't destroy my condenser. I am excited and extremely happy she is up and running.   |
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Stev
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Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2389 |
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Posted: 23 Sep. 2019 at 9:45pm |
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Looks like great work!
You might consider fine tuning the distributor position using a vacuum gauge. All you need to do is to install a vacuum gauge in the vacuum line that runs to the windshield wiper. With the engine at about 2,000 rpms turn the distributor to maximize the vacuum and tighten the distributor in position.
Timing by the book is great - assuming everything is brand new in the system. Using a vaccum gauge works well for a system that is not brand new. |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 01 Oct. 2019 at 2:04pm |
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I set the timing with my timing light, but have heard of the vacuum timing before. I will look into it, but first I have to fix an overheating issue. Engine steadily climbs to 200-220 while at idle for about ten minutes. Steam comes out of the overflow on the radiator. So far I have done the following:
1. Ran without tstat, still overheated. 2. Tested T Stat to ensure it opens, 160 tstat opened fully at around 160-165. 3. Drilled 1/8" hole in T-stat. 3. Ensured heat riser is working properly, opens and closes just fine. Even wired it in the "up" position just to make sure. 4. Checked water pump, impeller spins and when radiator cap is off there is a clearly visible current flowing across the radiator core. 5. Flushed system multiple times. 6. I am currently replacing the head gasket, but I think it was fine. The shop who did the engine rebuild did put it on upside down (metal side up) but it wasn't blocking any water jackets. This just caused a small amount of leakage from the head. I did not install a fan shroud on the new aluminum radiator. I am now starting to think this is the culprit. I had originally read in my research on radiators that I did not need one. Now I am starting to think that was wrong. I have the old original radiator with shroud and I may install that instead to see if that fixes it. I took it to a radiator shop about a year ago and the owner said it was beyond salvage. I flushed water through it last night, and did not spot any leaks. My other options are to make a shroud for the new radiator or install an electric fan.
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smfulle
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Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Posted: 01 Oct. 2019 at 2:50pm |
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Could your gauge be off? You can get an infrared thermometer pretty cheaply at Harbor Freight and check the actual engine temp.
If your timing is off, that can effect the engine temps. Also if your distributor advance is gummed up and not moving or the springs on the advance weights are weak that can have some effect as well. Fan shroud can make a difference, but I had all kinds of overheating issues that I did all kinds of little things to fix, much like your list. When I installed the aluminum radiator without shroud my problems went away so it makes me think that there is something else going on. |
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 01 Oct. 2019 at 3:30pm |
Good point, I had read about the advance springs and forgot to check that out! I did buy an infrared themo from HF and everything seemed to match between that and the temp gauge. I forgot to add I tested the temp gauge in a pot of hot water, it was spot on. Which aluminum radiator did you install without a shroud? I believe mine is the Champion Cooling 3 row. |
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smfulle
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Posted: 01 Oct. 2019 at 4:01pm |
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Here's the one I bought. I guess it does have a shroud, just not set up to use the shroud extension.
Here's a thread I wrote comparing this OMIX radiator to the original and my experience with it. |
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 01 Oct. 2019 at 6:04pm |
Thanks for the info. I just checked the advance springs and sure enough they were quite loose. I will put everything back together tonight and see how it goes.
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2020 at 4:49pm |
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Well I haven't provided many updates in a bit. I had the engine running great, but it would rapidly climb above 200 after a few minutes of idle. The engine eventually partially seized while I was trying to diagnose. I detailed my troubles in this post:
I ended up disassembling the motor myself instead of taking it to the machine shop. I know I payed for their services but after finding a few issues I do not trust them to do it correctly at all. Lesson learned, I would do engine assembly myself in the future. Once I removed the engine, I removed all the pistons to check everything out. The fourth piston had metal shavings all over the connecting rod. Once I removed the piston I could tell it had been severely scuffed. I was worried I had overheated the engine, but I am fairly certain I did not. Once engine temps reached 200-210 I would shut down the motor. As I pulled the pistons I noted that all were installed properly per the service manual, with oil squirter facing away from the cam shaft and t slot on the opposite side of that. When I removed the fourth piston connecting rod I noticed the bearing was completely destroyed and the oil holes were completely clogged with debris. The third piston had slight scuffing but the con rod bearing was in good shape. Piston 1 and 2 looked great but the con rod bearings had grooves cut into them. I believe these were from knicks on the crankshaft when the con rods were installed. Due to the clogs in the bearing I believe the fourth piston was not receiving oil, which would also explain the overheating. When I removed the oil pan, you could obviously see pistons 1, 2, and 3 had been receiving oil, but piston and con rod 4 were completely dry. I have thoroughly cleaned everything, ordered new parts (bearings, and two pistons), and checked my bore measurements to ensure they are within tolerance for .30 oversize pistons. I will begin reassembly soon, does anyone have any advice or other things I should look at?  Fourth conrod bearing  Fourth piston  Bearings 1, 2, and 3  4th Piston stuck in upright position after removal  |
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Rich M.
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Joined: 03 Oct. 2015 Location: 21757 Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2020 at 7:51pm |
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That sucks I feel your pain. Good luck on the reassembly.
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otto
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Joined: 26 Feb. 2012 Location: Orygun Status: Offline Points: 2264 |
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2020 at 8:40pm |
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Check the oil gallery through the block and crankshaft oiling holes. They should be spotless.
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47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A 64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle! |
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WeeWilly
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2020 at 9:17pm |
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I feel your pain, Your machine shop should be responsible for the cost to replace all the parts. You mentioned nicks on the crankshaft, sounds like that will have to be taken care of first and like others have said, clean, clean and clean. I have gotten blocks back from machine shops that was supposed to be cleaned and there were grit though out the block from their cleaning tanks. Now I don't trust them to clean the blocks and save the $ and do it myself. Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2020 at 9:34pm |
I've been running pipe cleaners through those and they have all seemed very clean.
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2020 at 9:37pm |
Yea I am 100% certain they knicked the con rod jounral when reinstalling. I'm with you on the cleaning, I will do everything but the boring myself from now on. I have cleaned up two of the knicks with emory cloth and 2000 grit sandpaper wet sanding. Those are now smooth and won't catch a fingernail. The third one still catches a fingernail, so I will most likely have to have the crank turned or polished professionally.
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Ol' Unreliable wrote: