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'46 VEC? came with L-Head to power a mill saw?

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Mudhog92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec. 2016 at 3:36am
Went for an after work test drive-after adjusting clutch. OD pops out less but still does under load. Saw linkage is dragging on bottom of body and linkage cross pin cotter pin was catching a little. Also tightened up shift linkage. Little better, but still pops out.
Herm's 30% OD, hit 60mph easy, Willys rolls smooth too. Better than therapy, no top, cold as all heck, but flat out awesome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec. 2016 at 11:06am
Those Overdrives have a synchro assembly that has the same basic design as the t 90 transmission. If the 3 pawls are worn, synchro collar and stationary gear have taper, or weak pawl springs, too much mainshaft endfloat, Worn shifter fork, it will pop out of gear. Expensive little buggers to fix too!  After rebuilding a original Warn, I would now just buy a new  Saturn. You can get close to the same money just rebuilding one, and a total pain to get right. I know this because  I did buy a new  Saturn.  Your transmission needs to be top notch too. No dirt and metal circulating. The bowl gear needs to be torqued on and careful installation of that wierd fluted snap ring too. If your mainshaft had a loose rear drive gear, it will have beat the splines up and will eventually allow the OD bowl gear to work loose too. Once it does, a loud noise will be heard when things come apart. Ouch.  John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob3b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec. 2016 at 6:10pm
Those rear shift overdrives linkages can rub the underside of the body and cause shifting issues and weird noises. I made some spacers and lowered the back of the transmission 1/2 inch to take care of the issue.
1946 CJ2A #23881
1953 CJ3b, nice!
1949 Jeepster
1947 Empire Model 90
1985 CJ10A
Spen "S" Utility trailer
Kubota l3400
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Mudhog92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec. 2016 at 1:55am
I might try that.  Sounds easier than spacing the whole body up 1/2".  

I need to dig into the Tcase and see if I have any drag around the twin shift yoke.  I had difficulty getting the cross pin in it was so tight.  Been to cold and rainy and not high enough of my priority right now to crawl around on cold wet cement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec. 2016 at 2:02am
Oilleaker:
The OD is new 30% from Herm and the Tcase and trans I just rebuilt with new bearings, seals, and T90 got new synchros, few new shafts and gears-not all.
I replaced everything that had excessive wear, slop or damage.  
Just researched the bowl gear, new to me.  
Took my time and followed Herms directions carefully and slowly.  Not saying I did it right.  Shifts smooth, no noise, oil is full.
Giving it a little break in period and trouble shooting some pssible linkage issues.  Did tighten up the linkage on top of the trans.   Had to rebend the shifter to clear my left Tcase shifter and the linkage was actually bent when I got it that I could not in stall it.  It was twisted few degrees on it's axis.
Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shadow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2017 at 5:27am
nothing better than child labour
lets go for a rip eh bud

Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2017 at 12:38pm
 The new Saturns come with thicker or taller spacer washers for under the shifter on top of the transmission. It also off sets the shifter linkage to the right by mounting it on the passenger side , outside of the shift rail. (rear shift) I noticed on my Warn that the shifter linkage had been rubbing on the aluminum OD case. I moved it to the passenger side, outside , of the shifter rail. Problem solved. Each Jeep depending on body mounts, rubbers, orientation of the hat channels will have different clearance issues. You just have to work it out for yourself. I really like the OD now. Oilly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2017 at 4:16pm
I lifted the tub 1/2" and pulled the linkage, bent it and ground a little off the top where it ties into the OD rear shift.  Have total of 3/4" from bottom of tub to shifter linkage.  Still pops out.  Herm stated theD18 gear needs 0.667" clearance, I had 0.670.  My block is cracked and leaking coolant, replacing it with a running F-head.  Will pull OD and re-check all tolerances when I swap engines.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2017 at 4:35pm

Scraping 70 year old foam off inside of my 3A aluminum hard top.  That was about the most favorite project of this whole adventure.  I had pieces of foam in every pocket and orifice, despite eye, ear, and lung coverage.  Sat on the cold ground to do it with the top on saw horses.  When I went to get off the ground, I had melted the snow and it refroze my insulated overalls to the ground.



Lowes anti-fatigue foam floor mat.  Reduce noise and temperature changes.



Fabbed window catches for the doors



I put on a 3A top .  Took up the space around the windshield frame with stock aluminum 4" flat on the top and 1" square tube around the sides.  Felt lined the all the contact points and Shazaam!  Put in a Harrison heater too.  Fan is half dead and does not blow a ton of heat.  Think I get more from the engine and heat from the exhaust blowing in all the firewall holes!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2017 at 4:37pm

Shot of spacers before painting
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2017 at 4:48pm
She had a frozen F-head in when I got her.  Pulled it and dropped in an L-head.  The L-head had a crack in the block under the distributor that had been welded, but still was wet from seeping.  I JB welded it.  Well, that didn't hold.  Blowing water out like a coffee swizzle stick.  

So I tore into the frozen F-head I had pulled out.  #3 cylinder wrist pin broke and scored the cylinder walls at least 1/8" in 4 spots around cylinder walls.  The cost to fix that cylinder, hone the rest, news pistons, rings, valves looked rough, bearing are barely OK, so have to do them too, new seals,...

I ran across a low mileage F-head with good compression, T90 side shift and D18 out of a CJ5 Tuxedo Park for $600 bucks.  He has $$$ and when he bought the CJ5, paid his buddy to drop in an odd fire.  Putting the F-head in this spring.  Thinking about the Clifford headers, MSD ignition, and a Holley 1908 to keep my low hood.  Maybe even an electric fan.  





That's actually my face before coffee as I head out to the Hoochy Garage to do Willys work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparky13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2017 at 1:16am
Mudhog92   Did you have to put anything underneath the top where it meets the body?  Did you just put spacers around the top and sides of the windshield frame?  Can you post a picture of where the top meets the body?  I have a top that came on my Willys that doesn't really belong to it.  I thought about trying to make it work. 
Thanks, Mark
Mark
1946 CJ2A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2017 at 5:28am
I bolted 1" wide thick aluminum angle to the inside of the hard top so that the horizontal lip of the angle would lay on top of the tub lip. I drilled and ran 1/4" bolts and lock washers through the aluminum and top of tub lip. The angle was pop riveted to the hard top. I got that idea from my old YJ hard top.
The front edge is full of bolts and self tap screws. The doors are also full of bolts and screws. Whatever fit, worked and held.
At work, will send detailed pictures tomorrow if I can.
I did put felt between everything to avoid paint damage, wind, and noise. That with the rubber floor mat really kept the noise down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2017 at 2:01pm
Top sunnyside down.  Aluminum channel visible with felt
 



Cross view of aluminum angle on top of tub lip




Inside shot of tub, bolt and alum. and brown felt.




View of top with self tapping screws into 4" flat stock that is bolted to windshield frame.  1" square stock is barely visible pop riveted to flange from hard top, then long #12 screws run threw top, square stock into windshield frame with lock washers.






Just more close up views



Whole door with how lower front of hard top (in front of door) is sheet metal screwed to tub.  You can see how I cut the aluminum square stock to fit around windshield frame at bottom.  The other side is nice and straight, this one bowed out when I pulled all the screws tight.  
Important note- I set the top on the tub, placed doors on and aligned everything up before I fastened anything.  Then I kept everything loose, rechecked, repositioned, then pulled stuff tight.  I only put a few fasteners in at first just to hold it all together, then I added more as I saw fit.




Pre-painted aluminum, easier to see.

I sought feed back from the forum before i started this.  I considered cutting out some of the original rivets and bowing in the top from behind the door to the front to pull the sides in the 2" total i needed to take in for fit.  I received feedback to not do that.  Good call.  This worked and looks decent painted and I should have no leaking to worry about as top is relatively unmodified.  Trying this first left the cutting option available.  If i would have cut it, I would have had no option left except to make it work.  Could have, but more frustrating, more work, more crying and bleeding, more beer...ooh wait a minute....

Let me know if you need any more info.  Good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2017 at 7:27pm
Got in touch with Herm.  He had some bad housing castings.  On my dime I sent it back and he replaced the housing.  I sent everything to him, he did not send back my oil slinger right away.  i had to call him again.  He sent me one.  Put it all back together.  Measured the protrusion of the assembly beyond T case to spec, 0.675(?), do not recall the specific number right now.  Had to order shims off Amazon as I received none, despite directions stating to install supplied shims.  Tightened to ft/lbs specs.  Test drive, left nice huge 90w gear oil trail and seemed a 'little tight' rolling.  Installation in the dark prevented my from observing the ever so slight angle the OD was sitting, leaving gap on passenger side.  
Pulled it all back out, pulled shims off.  Now out of spec. Reassembled, tightened, fill with gear goo, works fine.  humpf.  Not following directions usually does not get me to the end point successfully.  HJave not driven much with the OD as I am dropping and F-head in, had to fab mounts and all kinds of choke and throttle linakges, cut valve breather, firewall,.......next post.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2017 at 7:49pm

Not so good in the snow, but I'm smiling anyway.



L head out


F head in


Put a '64 Falcon carb on to get hood closed.  Had to cut valve cover breather to lower it also.  Had to fab throttle connections, works but not smooth, will re-fab.  Had to bend shifter rods/linkages from the steering to the trans to get around the bell housing, now my brake pedal catches on occasion.  Fabbed engine mounts so it would sit 1/2" lower.  Rubber insulated them for vibration.  Dropped the tranny and T case 1/2" too.  Had to lower everything for hood clearance and the valve cover back bolt to not wedge into the hood cowl.  Oh, and of course the F head that was frozen in her when I got it, had the same bell housing as the L-head I dropped in.  This F head did not.  Figures.  Had to cobble radiator hoses together to get all that to work with the radiator.  Did you know they make hose adapters for different radiator hose sizes?!?  I do now!  Going to the parts store and telling him I need a hose this diameter with these bends....he said just go in the back and look, you pick it out!  Got close in the bands and straight runs, but diameter was off a smidge.  Also put an MSD 6 ignition module on.  Engine runs great, has noticeable more power, just have to iron out a few kinks to drive more than around the block.  

PS-The 3M glued liner and insulation that was repurposed floor fatigue matt did not work.  Too heavy.  Warm day made it all come down.  Going to fab some bowed aluminum strips to fasten and arch up to hold it in place.  Maybe pop rivet or bolt thru the roof.  



Next project followed me home.  '69 Jeepster Commando with a Dauntless and TH400.  EVERYTHING needs rebuild, but engine is free.
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