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'48 CJ2A #204853, Pietermaritzburg, South Africa

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mkoloc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkoloc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2018 at 1:16am
I would appreciate that scan ... worked with felt gaskets on my Maxson Turret for my 43 M16A2 Halftrack, and your right its a challenging material to work with.

mkoloc44@yahoo.com

Thank you,
Mark
LTC Mark Koloc (USA-RET)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2018 at 4:09pm
Mark,

I forgot to bring in the gaskets to scan them at work. I will try and remember tomorrow.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2018 at 10:21am
Hi Mark, 

I remembered to bring in the NOS wiper motor gasket to work. When I scanned it the scan was not great. But I used it as a backdrop and drew over the image with CAD. I then printed it to pdf and printed out a copy at scale 1:1, or 100% scaling (ie no scaling up or down on the printer - full size). When I overlayed the original on the copy it seems like a pretty good match. Certainly within the tolerance you would be able to cut with an exacto knife anyway.



I thought others might also need the pattern so I uploaded it to the "How to Section". Not quite sure where it would best be posted. Here is the post:


Let me know if you manage to print it and cut it out, and especially if it fits!

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkoloc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2018 at 2:05am
Mike ...much appreciated ..will provide pics of my gasket when I get it done.
LTC Mark Koloc (USA-RET)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkoloc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2018 at 2:09am
May have missed it, but how thick is the material of your gasket? (mm or inches work)

Markus
LTC Mark Koloc (USA-RET)
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OEF Afghan 03-04
OEF Africa 05-07
OEF KFOR 08-09
WTB 09-11
1942 Ford GPW
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Trlr
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1947 CJ2A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2018 at 8:03am
Originally posted by mkoloc mkoloc wrote:

Mike ...much appreciated ..will provide pics of my gasket when I get it done.

Glad to help, and hopefully for others out there too.

I'd be interested to know if it all works out. I've never tried to download my own uploads, so you can be the guinea pig to test that everything works - download, print, cutout and test fit. Let me know any improvements needed. I can always amend the design slightly if it is proven to be slightly off.

Thickness on the NOS gaskets measured out at 0.4mm = 1/64", if my maths is correct.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkoloc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2018 at 12:56am
Mike that's great regards the thickness. . Auburn Manufacturing, Middletown, CT  Sells all types of felt gasket material.  That will be my source as I also need felt for the trunnions on my HT Turret (F7 Material is my material of choice based on thickness and material design).

Edited by mkoloc - 02 June 2018 at 12:59am
LTC Mark Koloc (USA-RET)
MVPA#31144
OEF Afghan 03-04
OEF Africa 05-07
OEF KFOR 08-09
WTB 09-11
1942 Ford GPW
43 M16A2 Half-Track w/44 M10      
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1947 CJ2A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2018 at 8:55am
So at the end of May I met the painter with the objective of getting a quote for the body paintwork. The time I have available and my skill level on such an important and visible part of the rebuild are just not there. Learning how to paint on the final paint job just did not seem like a good idea! LOL

Anyhoo, I got a quote I could live with, and I've spent the last few weekends stripping everything back to fenders, grill, hood, windshield, tub and tailgate! Everything has been tagged and bagged once again and safely stored. The big difference this time is that most removables and components are clean and painted and came apart easily!

The painter came back this past weekend and took all the parts for painting. It's strange to be sitting with nothing but a frame and an engine once again!

I actually have quite a lot to keep me busy in the meantime. Not every part had previously been stripped and painted, and they stuck out like sore thumbs compared to the rest of the jeep. So I have been working on the last few that still needed to be done. Like headlight buckets! Here are pics of them stripped...





....and with some undercoat on....



I know the "correct paint" would be some kind of chocolate brown colour, but I just can't bring myself to paint these brown! I am not going to go to car shows or have the car try to get points at some competition either. So I will paint them what feels correct to me.... and what will match all of the other bolt on components - gloss black! (sorry purists).

I've also found, restored and rebuilt an IAD 4008 dizzy, which I understand was actually correct for my '48 jeep. It's stamped 3C ie March 1948. My current dizzy is a IAY 4401, correct for CJ3B and later. It works well enough, but if I am going to rebuild a spare, it may as well be correct for the jeep, right? I plan to put the IAD 4008 in the jeep and keep the 4401 as the spare.













All old restored parts, except for the points and condenser.

So the current state of play is I'm hoping my painting will be done in 8-10 weeks. The guy is just a part-timer, not full time. In the meantime I will be cracking on with "small" details like cleaning and painting seats, making seat pans, and hopefully finding canvas and making seat covers to replace the black vinyl that is on there at the moment.

I'm super excited to get the body back from paint, and then the final reassembly! I just have to keep patient and work on these other things in the meantime!

Mike

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sarge 46 CJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2018 at 3:01pm
 What an exciting time! It really looks great so far Mike, and what a great moment it will be when you can start the final assembly with all of the big parts painted. I very much look forward to seeing that, and I am very excited for you!

Sascha
1946 CJ2A, #16890
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2018 at 3:58pm
Yes Sascha, it's been a long time coming but I feel like i'm rounding the final corner and the end is in sight. Still some work to do of course, but i'm getting there!

The final hurdle will be licence and registration. Not looking forward to that Dead

How are you going with your project?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2018 at 3:11am
You're planning on using anti-seize on the distributor where it fits into the block, right?  Sixty years from now, someone will be very thankful that you did.  Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2018 at 7:34am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

You're planning on using anti-seize on the distributor where it fits into the block, right?  Sixty years from now, someone will be very thankful that you did.  Smile

Agreed, in 60 years from now I'll be 103 and won't want to be messing with a stuck distributor....

All close fitting metal-to-metal parts on the jeep have received a coating of copper anti-seize on the re-assembly, including all non-sealing threads. Threads that need to be sealed have generally received Permatex #2.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2018 at 3:14am
Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:

Agreed, in 60 years from now I'll be 103 and won't want to be messing with a stuck distributor....


No, you'll still be having too much fun driving it!  Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sarge 46 CJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2018 at 3:01pm
Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:

Yes Sascha, it's been a long time coming but I feel like i'm rounding the final corner and the end is in sight. Still some work to do of course, but i'm getting there!

The final hurdle will be licence and registration. Not looking forward to that Dead

How are you going with your project?

It's really great to see! Ah yes the registration.. I am dreading that as well. But perhaps it won't be as bad as we expect. 

The progress on my project has been very slow, unfortunately. These final two years of my studies haven't left me with much spare time. Though I am getting very close to my first engine start now. The only thing left to do is to have my radiator fixed up, and then I'll be ready to start. The only other thing on the chassis/mechanical side of things to finish up is the font brake line(s). After that, I can re-fit the body parts and make the last modifications to them in preparation for paint. I predict that that will take a fair bit of time, but it'll be exciting to get to that point. I'm just hoping that nothing too serious comes up with/after the first engine start. But we'll see :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug. 2018 at 4:01pm
Well, the painter is still busy with the body painting, but I have not been sitting idly by!

I rebuilt my vacuum wiper motor, and it is now working great! I also did a "how to" in case you missed it and posted it in the appropriate section of the forum.

Headlight buckets are now nicely painted, bezels re-chromed, and everything back together again with springs and adjusting screws. Just waiting for my grill to come back to me! Here it is in primer, as sent to me by the painter to whet my appetite:



Windshield outerframe behind it. They are looking great, even in primer! Can't wait to get them back...

The windshield adjusting arms and small parts that were slowly rusting have been cleaned and cadmium plated, so they are all bright and shiny and ready to go on.

I decided to crack on with the seats. I wanted to go with cotton canvas seats, and my original seat pans were missing, so I have had to go the whole wooden base route, with foam padding. A horrible surprise was waiting for me when I took the old covers off - the foam had been glued to the seat frames! What a mess.... I had to spend a few hours getting old dried glue off the frames before cleaning them up and painting them.


 
I then got them to this stage before painting them....



The seats have been modified in various ways, firstly to accommodate taller drivers, but also to make the drivers seat pivot (like the passenger seat) and to be able to lock the passengers seat down when not pivoting. I have kept some of the better mods and reversed others. So now they pretty much look stock - only the jeep police will know differently! Wink The seats, canvas foam and bases are currently with a friend of mine who has the equipment to sew up the canvas seat covers. So it shouldn't be too long before I have seats that will match the rest of the build.

My TC shift levers were very loose on the shift pin due to 70 years of wear, even after replacing the pin with NOS. So I had them drilled out and bushed... much better!

I have also done my final leak reduction effort on the T90 shift tower. The front shift rails came with expansion plugs in the Novak rebuilt kit, which looked much like mini engine freeze plugs. The only place these can go is inside the rail bore up against the little lip. 



This looked great until I realised that the shift rails shift all the ways to the front of the bore to be flush with the front of the tower. This would punch out the expansion plugs on the first shift Confused 



I found some original shift rail caps which stand off the front of the shift tower just a tiny bit and allow the rail to shift up inside of them. Seems like a much better arrangement! 



They tapped right in with a little permatex #2 sealant around the outside...





At the rear I had some brass plugs made up that are a snug friction fit into the rail bores. A little sealant and they also tapped right in.





If my shift tower leaks now, then so be it.... I've done everything I can! Tongue

I am really getting to the point where I have little left to do until I get the painted body panels back. But I am going away for 2 weeks, so possibly by the time I get back they will be very close, or some will be ready at least. I am hoping to get the windshield back sooner so I can get glass cut and fitted while I wait for the rest.

We had a strike at the post office so my latest parts shipment has been stuck at JHB airport for the last 2 months with no movement. That sucks. Dead

Thanks for checking in. Hopefully my next post will be full of exciting reassembly pics!

The end is near!

Mike

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug. 2018 at 4:46pm
Mike, 
Your doing beautiful work as always.
One thing you might consider (maybe you already have) on the shift rail leak prevention is drilling a little hole in the bore to allow any fluid that gets behind the end of the shift rail to drip back down into the case rather than be pushed out around your plugs due to hydraulic pressure. 

Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 9:18am
Hey Stan....Yup, that was something I had thought about. Having had to reverse a lot of Bubba's work on this jeep, I have always tried not to be the next Bubba that makes permanent modifications, either for better or for worse. Wherever possible I have made reversible modifications so that the next guy can decide of he wants them or not.

In this case I ground the very bottom of the back of each shift rail flat, so as to create a "channel" for the oil to return flow back to the transmission. I figured it was better to modify the rail than the shift tower itself. Probably 5% of the circumference has been flattened, meaning that there is still 95% remaining to do it's job in holding the rail snug in the bore.

Here you can see the last few inches of the rear of the rail ground flat. The shift forks and their attaching pins serve to index the rails, so it is important to grind the bottom of the rail. But maybe the top or sides would work just as well under hydraulic pressure. IDK. I didn't want to take a chance.



Here you can see the little "channel" that this creates for return flow. I did this for both sides.



Thanks for the heads up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 2:20pm
perfect!
Stan
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