48 restore project |
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bureams
Member Joined: 11 Aug. 2013 Location: Louisiana Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 5:18pm |
My son and I embarked on a restoration of what we believe (or have been told) is a 1948 CJ2a. I'm a bit late at getting a thread started here but have been referring frequently to the wisdom existing in this forum. So, for that, thank you. Attached is the before picture. The installed engine is a 4-134F from a '53 CJ3B and the hood has the modified square box to prove it. It ran after we replaced the fuel system/pump and battery but the transmission and brakes were in pretty sad shape. Body plate in the engine compartment says its a CJ2A with number 190916 Front axle is a Dana 25 and the rear is a Dana 44.
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bureams
Member Joined: 11 Aug. 2013 Location: Louisiana Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Fast forward a few years when we didn't really accomplish much other than to transport it with our military transfers. We've started the tear down and are almost entirely down to the frame. The years had not been good on the body. All mounting attachment points were wasted away so the body was held onto the frame with a mixture of homemade brackets and spot welds. Some of the body mount out riggers are gone from the frame. We plan to start ordering needed parts shortly to begin the voyage to a rolling chassis but have encountered a concern/question. That is, whether or not the frame is a 2A or a 3A. The body had the 3A windshield but that can be swapped easily from 2A to 3A. It has a Dana 44 which is a stock 3A rear but from what I've read that is a common swap. The biggest difference is the front of the frame. This has no gusset for the front bumper but has the raised end that appears to match that of a 3A. We welcome any and all suggestions on the model frame we have (and anything else). I've attached some pictures. |
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DonH
Member Joined: 13 Feb. 2006 Location: Central Massachusetts USA Status: Offline Points: 132 |
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It is not a 2a or 3a frame. The front cross member suggests a cj5. DonH
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1946CJ2A
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Elroy
Member Joined: 05 May 2018 Location: Nottingham pa Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Frame is m38a1,
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391 |
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Welcome to the CJ2A Page! Looks like a great project! Nice Jeep and frame from the pictures.
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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bureams
Member Joined: 11 Aug. 2013 Location: Louisiana Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Elroy, thanks. I hadn't though to do look at the M38a1 to compare. Yes, it looks like an exact match. Do 2A bodies typically fit onto these frames? I really don't want to have to find a new tub. |
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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There's a difference of 1 inch in wheelbase between a 2A and an M-38A1, the A1 being longer. It looks like the PO just moved the tub back so it lined up at the rear crossmember. I don't know how well things would line up with that change. Does the tranny line up with its hole in the floor?
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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The CJ-5/M38-A1 frame is about 2.5" longer then the 2A/3A/3B frame would be. You should locate the tub on the frame at the Riser and then shorten the rear section of the frame to be most accurate. You will have a problem with the cut outs in the inner fenders for the shock mounts as well as the Inner Fender braces will not line up with the mounting holes on the frame. You will be missing 3 frame mounts and the grill mounts unless already added. My 2A tub is on a CJ5 frame.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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bureams
Member Joined: 11 Aug. 2013 Location: Louisiana Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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To answer the questions, everything appeared to fit just fine with the existing body (tranny holes, etc). It drove but the transmission and brakes were really iffy. Once we starting prepping the body for removal, it was clear it wasn't mounted in any manner I'd consider safe. None of the existing out rigger mounts were used...now I know why. The front fenders and grill were essentially all spot welded in place but the shock mounts did seem to work, though I'll have to check to see if the inner fender was modified (thinking back I think it was). Any suggestions on how to make adjustments to allow the 2A fenders and grill to mount as naturally as possible to the M38A1 frame? My plan moving forward is to use the M38A1 hardware where applicable (bumper and rear cross member both need replacing, engine and tranny mounts, leaf springs/shackles), but will order the appropriate number of out riggers for the 2A body and will test fit as recommended here, but will mark where the body mounts need to attach to the frame and install at that point. I'll have to play the steering components by ear since there are a few tie rod ends needing to be replaced. My guess is that they are all original M38A1 hardware. We're really looking forward to see primed and painted metal on the frame. We're thinking of using Eastwood products unless there are any better thoughts. Thanks again for all the assistance. I can't say enough how helpful y'all have been. We'll hopefully be sharing progress photos next instead of more questions. |
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