48CJ2a starting point

CJ-3A's were L heads the overhead valve F head came in the CJ3B

Your tub has a number of modifications including the Hat channel under the front floor is not stock, The Top bow pockets on the left side of the body have been removed.

Joe,

Moving right along on my 48 project, I started on the steering box. The pic on the right is off the 48 the other I'll call spare on left which I'd like to use. Both worm gears have nos. T123041 on them But the spare shaft is about 1" longer With a different steering wheel shown in another pic (one with longer lip) Both steering wheels say S Heller on them. Will the spare (longer shaft work alright? Also one of the pics shows the rear cap, broke the slide hammer end trying to remove the oil seal. Any tricks to getting the oil seal out? and while I'm at it I'll go for 3 Anybody recognize the washer next to rear cap? Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Joe Wadoyado

Update on my 48 cj2a. The first pic should show the trans buttoned up ready to go, shifted thru all gears little tighter but should be fine, would install on transfer case but going to wait till it's outside for easier handling. Next pic transfer case didn't totally disassemble just new seals gaskets, had hand brake shoes relined cleaned parts tried to use OEM parts including hardware. E brake works good. Next pics shows parts might be of interest. I ordered all new U joints from QTM made in US ones, seemed to work good (no issues),was able to find arrows after several cleanings splines looked good also. Two used U joints (probably still usable) say Spicer original equipment? The throw out bearing proudly stamped made in USA is at least 40yrs old if not original I plan on using it. I think this build is going to be about using OEM, keeping new parts to a minimum. The transfer case shift pin is one of the few new parts I've used and the standard grease fitting doesn't fit had to half ass retap it. From what I've read on this form i'm pretty leary of anything "brand new" I not sure if I want to run the new trans mount probably metric studs! Wa ma gonna do? Joe wadoyado

Thanks Gil coming from you I consider that a real compliment! Did you happen to notice the clutch control tube in one of the pics? I decided to go with the worn and pitted original after reading about the bullsh-- problems you had. Thanks for the warning. Joe Wadoyado                     

These pic's are pretty much self explanatory. Found rust thru spot on cross-member, measured 12ga,(.109),located same thickness patch piece,1/16 cutoff wheel to cut rectangle area out. Used cut-out piece as pattern. Then tacked in repair patch(butt joint) leaving small gap if possible. Then TIG welded using "mild" steel rod(low carbon content). I skipped the pic showing the backside of the weld 100% penetration. This is the same way I recommended to mnbailey to repair the large dent in the front frame cross tube, only round and you'ld have to recurve the patch, I got the impression from a couple of posts that I was talking crazy. I ask what is wrong with my method? I'm aware mnbailey said he had little welding experience which is why I suggested just tack in the patches then bring to a professional. Thanks, Joe (PlEASE DON'T CUT THAT FRAME) Wadoyado.

Should have previewed, this is the pic I meant to post OOps again! joe

I could easily spend a yr. just doing the tub, but just can't wait that long......had to explain to the jeep going to have to go with just a flat sheet for the bed(no ribs, custom cobble). Even with the local made hat channel still about 300$ cheaper. I told it I'd just tack it in, put a proper replacement later. I left the original tailgate mounting holes in place when I made the weld repair 14ga metal 18ga on the back and sides Also note I didn't weld the long seem on the side repair until it's all tacked in place....helps control distortion. Joe wadoyado

   Wow! tempus fugit, it's been 1yr since joining this site. Really expected to be farther along by now (hate being a sidewalk commando). My jeep knowledge can be summed up in two time periods, before the form, and after the form, sorta like B.C. and A.D. Unfortunate for me I started doing this jeep body in B.C. times, before I fully realized how it was put together and what was available ect. The first pic should show about as far as I wanted to go before putting the body on( which has been the big hold up). I timed it with the timing marks lined up, the fly wheel mark in the window, the intake valve in #1 just closed, the rotor in the 1 o clock position with CCW rotation, and if it's not timed right I'll be a Unkamonkey er I mean monkey's uncle . I was able to do a compression test using my selonoid switch with the built in button switch works as a remote starter, showed 95psi in 4,3,2 with no.1(the one I removed) 85psi hoping that's the reason. This is the original motor that was bored .060 over 50 yrs ago(run every year since) Going to run it until I do a rebuild on the 52 block I have. Also decided on a 1 wire alt. for the juice. The body, if I had to do it over probably would get a new tub....the only thing I can say is at least the grand kids won't fall thru the floor. If the body was original or had some historical significance I think I'd tack the repair pieces with a Mig welder then put on a rotissier and Tig weld. Many thanks for all I've learned on this form Joe Wadoyado