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49'ish CJ2A- "Motorboat" |
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IRQVET 
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Joined: 03 Sep. 2019 Location: Tallahassee, FL Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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 Posted: 12 Feb. 2020 at 2:40am |
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After this is built, at some point I want to get an M-38 or a GPW. Afterall, you can't have too many Jeeps.
 Edited by IRQVET - 20 Feb. 2020 at 12:41am |
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Dean
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran 49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924 67 CJ5 (Sold) |
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TateC
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Joined: 23 Feb. 2018 Location: SLC, Utah Status: Offline Points: 510 |
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Posted: 12 Feb. 2020 at 4:48am |
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That has got to be part of the gospel of jeep forums if there was such a thing. Its a shame G503 is such a hostile forum because its an excellent resource for MB/GPW's.
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Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687 1943 Willys MB #263100 1944 Ford GPW #234613 1945 Willys CJ2A #10226 |
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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Posted: 12 Feb. 2020 at 4:02pm |
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Several of the causes of the “hostile” atmosphere at the “Gee” have been either run off or left on their own, I don’t know which. Some that I didn’t see as troublesome are also gone. Unfortunately, several very knowledgeable people and their experience are no longer available to us. In my opinion, it is a much more friendly place than before, however. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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IRQVET
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Joined: 03 Sep. 2019 Location: Tallahassee, FL Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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Posted: 16 Feb. 2020 at 5:49am |
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Speaking of hostile atmosphere, Motorboat kicked my butt this weekend. . . . I am no mechanic!! (I think I mentioned this before)
 Everything that seemed straight forward, wasn't. 1.) Previous Owner had the fire order off on the distributor as (#3 plug was in the plug #1); however, it was running although not correct. I rearranged the plugs into the correct firing order, and now I can't get it running. 2.) Rear drums were on there like someone welded them together, with some kind rust adhesion (to the 1,000th power) that made them impossible to pry loose. Used a hub puller (for the first time) and rear driver side came off in a manner I can only describe a moderate explosion as the hub broke free. Same issue with the passenger side rear hub (except) the hub puller torn chunks out of the lip of brake drum. It finally came off, but now I need a new rear brake drum. Tried to rent one that attached to the threads, but none of them where big enough (wide enough) to to grab threads on each side. Feeling pretty defeated right now, feel like I took one step forward and three steps back. Motorboat sure kicked my butt this weekend.
 Edited by IRQVET - 16 Feb. 2020 at 7:15am |
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Dean
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran 49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924 67 CJ5 (Sold) |
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eestes1
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Posted: 16 Feb. 2020 at 11:17am |
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A friend of ours used to say, "A kick in the butt is only a few vertebrae from a pat on the back"! So, you're close to having something good happen. Hang on!
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Rick Estes
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mbullism
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Posted: 16 Feb. 2020 at 12:41pm |
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Always (always) use a hub puller that draws from the studs (from the hub)...or invest in a case of brake drums and consider them disposable. The face of the brake drum is not anywhere near rigid enough to put that kind of stress on.
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Flatfender Ben
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Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Posted: 16 Feb. 2020 at 3:45pm |
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These old Jeeps can certainly kick ya hard.
I’m feeling the same about one of my projects! I wanted to be driving it by now... but no!! Keep going it will come together and be worth all the butt kickings!  As far as firing order... Do some firing order/googling with CJ2A page included in your search. Lots of helpful info on here. Don’t trust the flywheel timing marks until you verify it wasn’t installed 180* off. A search of this info will help. Edited by Flatfender Ben - 16 Feb. 2020 at 3:59pm |
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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RICKG
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Posted: 16 Feb. 2020 at 4:19pm |
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I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52 '50 CJ3A "Bucksnort". Keep 'em Rollin' |
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IRQVET
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Joined: 03 Sep. 2019 Location: Tallahassee, FL Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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Posted: 17 Feb. 2020 at 4:16am |
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I'm back at it as I still have some more weekend.  I'm sure someone who is more mechanically inclined is going to read the following and roll there eyes. But I'm just learning over here and in no way any expert (or even competant) on anything I try to do mechanically. (Admit what you are, and what your not) Moving forward . . . I think I solved the timing issue, or at least improved it (after several hours of head scratching trial and error). It dawned on me (That's a lie, it was actually sugguested) that maybe the previous owner who installed the 12v distributor, might not have gone in incorrectly and might be a few teeth off??? The distributor appears fixed in place and does not twist back and forth like every other distributor I've seen when it comes to playing with timing, so I'm just spit balling here. So I went about verifying TDC by disconnecting all the plugs, hand turning the flywheel, and putting a paper towel in the hole of cylinder one. At TDC the compression would cause the paper towel to shoot out of the cylinder. Then I went back and determined the rotor was not in the traditional 5 o'clock position like the manual suggested (at TDC) when the paper towel shot out; but more like at 1 o'clock. So I moved the plugs around on the cap to compensate and viola, it fired right up smoother than its ever run. I went onto adjust the air/fuel mixture (again, something else I've never done) and the exhaust smoke went from white'ish to black'ish; but the engine sounded smoother and I was no longer smelling fuel in the exhaust. Again, I don't know if thats better or not? It had been sitting awhile before I purchased it so I'm sure it burning off alot of junk. So feeling cautiously accomplished, especially considering yeaterday's FUBAR; I went after the rear brakes. I removed the backing plates because it was hell trying to remove the nuts that hold onto the bottom of each of those brake shoes. You know, those bolts that have that square thing protruding out from them, the ones that you try to grasp as you back out the nut itself. I don't know what the technical term is for those bolts, at this point I'm calling them Satan's Nipple, as that is what I'm currently trying to remove . . .  (Picture of the distributor was before I figured it out)    Edited by IRQVET - 20 Feb. 2020 at 1:47am |
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Dean
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran 49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924 67 CJ5 (Sold) |
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IRQVET
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Joined: 03 Sep. 2019 Location: Tallahassee, FL Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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Posted: 17 Feb. 2020 at 4:52am |
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Thanks RICKG, Tried to rent one that attached to the threads, but none of them where big enough (wide enough) to to grab threads on each side. So I rented what was available to me at the time.
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Dean
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran 49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924 67 CJ5 (Sold) |
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mbullism
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Posted: 17 Feb. 2020 at 5:17am |
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Not faulting the attempt, just suggesting the right tool for the job is all. Most I know that do their own work invest in the puller RickG posted. I believe they can be had for 50-60 new and pay for themselves in saved brake drums. Last I one that I found was at a swap meet for 20- ymmv
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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IRQVET
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Joined: 03 Sep. 2019 Location: Tallahassee, FL Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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Posted: 18 Feb. 2020 at 1:22am |
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Here is the engine parts painted, still have some stuff to do. On a side note, I went to G503 (www.rfjp.com) aka Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts this a.m. Met with the Ron the owner and got a tour of his shop. Ron and his wife were super nice people. I was junk drunk as far as parts go.   Edited by IRQVET - 20 Feb. 2020 at 1:06am |
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Dean
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran 49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924 67 CJ5 (Sold) |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Posted: 18 Feb. 2020 at 2:19am |
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The distributor shouldn't be fixed in place, but they frequently get frozen in place by rust. They are frequently extremely difficult to free up and are often damaged in the attempt. Some folks have had to resort to engine disassembly and going into the
block to try to remove the distributor from below; some have had to do it with
machine work. Try your favorite penetrant to get it loose first. |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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IRQVET
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Joined: 03 Sep. 2019 Location: Tallahassee, FL Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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Posted: 18 Feb. 2020 at 3:55am |
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Good feedback, thanks for that.
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Dean
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran 49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924 67 CJ5 (Sold) |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Posted: 19 Feb. 2020 at 3:01am |
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You're welcome. Always glad to help.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Tartone
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Joined: 20 Aug. 2018 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 87 |
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2020 at 5:21pm |
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Sounds like a fun project! I am about to drop my engine back in after some issues with the rebuild, where I had it running great but some oiling issues reared there head. I would thoroughly suggest for your rebuild that you find a shop that is recommended by someone else. Otherwise, I would just send out the block for machining, magan fluxing, etc. and do the assembly yourself. My plan now is to acquire a second engine to rebuild as a back up, hopefully eliminating any jeep downtime.
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IRQVET
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Joined: 03 Sep. 2019 Location: Tallahassee, FL Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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Posted: 23 Feb. 2020 at 6:46pm |
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Not alot of progress to report. Last weekend I had my buddy helping me with this project, and unfortunately, he broke more than he fixed, so it created more work for me. He works on cars, but not vintage ones. So he wasn't aware how easy it is to break/ strip stuff out that is this old and rusted. He tried to help, he was confident he could, but I think he was over his head. He looked at me sideways any time I torched a bolt prior to removal. But that was something I learned from the CJ5 build when dealing with rusted on bolts. I thought he was going to keel over watching me torch bolts, obviously somthing he's never seen before working on newer cars.
I had the hubs pressed out at Les Swab, and I got the distributor unstuck without injuring the block. Now I'm currently waiting on parts to arrive . . . I was able to install the new master brake cylinder with the tub on, that was no fun but I got it done. Btw, anyone got a line on one of these? A part my buddy had difficulty removing it . . .    Edited by IRQVET - 24 Feb. 2020 at 1:31am |
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Dean
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran 49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924 67 CJ5 (Sold) |
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IRQVET
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Joined: 03 Sep. 2019 Location: Tallahassee, FL Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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Posted: 01 Mar. 2020 at 11:17pm |
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Just ordered the Carter WO repop direct from Joe's Motorpool for $260.00 (Shipped). Nothing else to report, as I'm still waiting on parts. Saved $65.00 by ordering direct, as everyone sells them for $325.00 on this side of the pond.
 Edited by IRQVET - 03 Mar. 2020 at 4:53am |
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Dean
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran 49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924 67 CJ5 (Sold) |
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athawk11 wrote: